How would YOU mount 4 100-watt panels on a 2006 Honda Odyssey?

[Lance22]

Currently, my 2-100-watt panels are just U-bolted onto the roof rails. However with the upgrade there is not enough room on the RAILS but plenty of room on the roof.

I was thinking of getting two angle steel 1/8 thick and 1 and 1/2 long (on each angle) and then mounting the panels between the steel angle with bolts and connecting pannels 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 together with bolts as well. Then U bolting the steel angle to the roof rails.

Rusting is a concern so maybe steel isn't the best material or maybe rust roofing the steel with a sealant coat would be best.

I thought about aluminum angle instead but I wonder if it's strong enough.

I also want something aesthetically pleasing. I was thinking of painting the steel in shiny black paint that would help blend the panels into the dark color minivan. Plus long as it looks well taken care of I belive I will enjoy the benefits of increased ability to travel unharrassed be it cops or concerned community members.

Maybe I could even try to match the color of the van (dark blue) and paint them that and REALLY make it blend. Right now nobody notices my solar and they are just stock silver edges. With the overhang over the rails I feel I gotta put more thought into the design to maintain the same level of stealth.

Would appreciate any advice or suggestions from those who have knowlege in simular solar installs. Thanks in advance.

 

[bullfrog !]

Most solar panels are trimmed in thin aluminum angle if they are holding up thicker aluminum angles should as well. You really should try to keep the weight down on top as much as possible plus your roof rails can only hold so much I imagine.

 

[RvNaut]

You could start with somehting like this to creat the mounting system, but... you might exceed the weight limit of the roofs rack mounting points... Honda rack is listed as 80kg /180lbs ...

... be cautious.. see if you can see others who have done similar..

YMMV IANAL

 

[wayne49]

Don't know about Honda roof racks.

I do know that pre-drilled aluminum angle stock (available at Home Depot) is cheap, easy to work with, and light weight. I've had four 100W Renogy panels [the space saver version, RNG-100D-SS 42.2 X 19.6 X 1.38 In] mounted across a 1989 Class C roof for over four years with no issues with the mounting rails.

Make sure to fill any holes that you make into the roof and cover the mount points with sealant.

 

[abnorm]

^ I've never seen Aluminum angle stock available "Pre-Drilled"..................Galvanized steel.... YES

 

[maki2]

As a starting point you would want to purchase solar panels that have frames that already come in the color black. It is not that easy to DIY paint aluminum and get paint to stick to it. It requires a special primer for aluminum to be able to get paint to stick to it. The prep work for that paint application job is critical so follow the instructions on the primer very carefully or your paint job will fail.

 

[maki2]

Don't know about Honda roof racks.

I do know that pre-drilled aluminum angle stock (available at Home Depot) is cheap, easy to work with, and light weight. I've had four 100W Renogy panels [the space saver version, RNG-100D-SS 42.2 X 19.6 X 1.38 In] mounted across a 1989 Class C roof for over four years with no issues with the mounting rails.

Make sure to fill any holes that you make into the roof and cover the mount points with sealant.

Get out a magnet and you will find it sticks to that perforated rail. Magnets do not stick to aluminum. If it sticks it’s made from steel.

 

[Lance22]

Don't know about Honda roof racks.

I do know that pre-drilled aluminum angle stock (available at Home Depot) is cheap, easy to work with, and light weight. I've had four 100W Renogy panels [the space saver version, RNG-100D-SS 42.2 X 19.6 X 1.38 In] mounted across a 1989 Class C roof for over four years with no issues with the mounting rails.

Make sure to fill any holes that you make into the roof and cover the mount points with sealant.

When I installed my 2 100 watt pannels I U bolted them to the roof rails and they been VERY SOLID, no issues.

What I worry about is that if I use aluminum angle that at higher speeds they could bend and fold up and back or somthing and cause issues over time with airflow and air force when driving say 70MPH.

My thinking is that the steel angle is basically just extending the length of the short roof rails so there is a strong hold for the pannels in front and the back one that will be partly off the roof rail as well.

But I guess if they make aluminum mounting brackets that connect to the actual roof then the aluminum angle would be strong enough alone?

 

[Lance22]

As a starting point you would want to purchase solar panels that have frames that already come in the color black. It is not that easy to DIY paint aluminum and get paint to stick to it. It requires a special primer for aluminum to be able to get paint to stick to it. The prep work for that paint application job is critical so follow the instructions on the primer very carefully or your paint job will fail.

on second thought I might just go with a nice shiny duck tape. I thought of buying the black trim pannels but decided against it. The angle steel or aluminum or what material I end up going with is going to end up covering the vast majority with the sides. Perhaps just drilling in front and back pieces that are already the color needed would be easier.

 

[maki2]

When I installed my 2 100 watt pannels I U bolted them to the roof rails and they been VERY SOLID, no issues.

What I worry about is that if I use aluminum angle that at higher speeds they could bend and fold up and back or somthing and cause issues over time with airflow and air force when driving say 70MPH.

My thinking is that the steel angle is basically just extending the length of the short roof rails so there is a strong hold for the pannels in front and the back one that will be partly off the roof rail as well.

But I guess if they make aluminum mounting brackets that connect to the actual roof then the aluminum angle would be strong enough alone?

Aluminum angle comes in different strengths. Some hardware stores sell it in two varieties. The strongest one that is used when you need structural strength is T6061. So if you are buying aluminum angle for cross bars or making brackets be sure that is the type you purchase. If the aluminum angle you look at this a very sharp corner that is the type called Architectural, it is softer and is not rated as structural so not the right one for your needs. The T6061 has a slight radius at that 90 degree edge versus a sharp corner so that makes a good visual clue when choosing the correct material at a hardware store. In case you might think I do not know what I am talking about think again. I have a text book and hands on education in working with aluminum.

First use a center punch to create a small divot for drilling holes in metal. That keeps your drill bit from skating sideways out of position. Steel uses slow speed drilling but aluminum drilling is done with very high speeds. So after the first second of getting the hole centered use you drill motor spinning as fast as it will run. It will still be too slow but that will be the best you can do without a proper high speed drill motor. Do not use a petroleum based drill lubricant including WD40. Aluminum absorbs and hangs onto oil so then paint and adhesives including for tapes will fail in that area. I am the woman in the foreground of that photo. Yes, I am a real life Rosie the Riveter. There is a lot of aluminum angle used in my build

 

[onethoughtatatime]

My approach has been always 'no added holes' approach with solar vehicle installs. Generally, going through an antenna grommet and feeding the cables. I generally solder and hotmelt glue heatshink as opposed to MC4 connectors. Easy to get tidy wiring this way and not bulky

I've had luck with A grade ETFE flexible panels and poylurethane adhesive. Sika has a specialty brand but I've used less 'branded' polyuethane adhesive with success. I've found this to be the strongest most permanent solution.

My last two solar installs have been with VHB tape. With properly prepared surfaces they will not come off without a lot of force. If someone does try to remove them my feeling is the panels will be rendered unusable. VHB tape is not crazy expensive and tidier than polyurethane glue. I think 99% of people aren't aware they are solar panels because of the lack of 'structure'

 

[MinnesotaDave]

Currently, my 2-100-watt panels are just U-bolted onto the roof rails. However with the upgrade there is not enough room on the RAILS but plenty of room on the roof.

I was thinking of getting two angle steel 1/8 thick and 1 and 1/2 long (on each angle) and then mounting the panels between the steel angle with bolts and connecting pannels 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 together with bolts as well. Then U bolting the steel angle to the roof rails.

Rusting is a concern so maybe steel isn't the best material or maybe rust roofing the steel with a sealant coat would be best.

I thought about aluminum angle instead but I wonder if it's strong enough.

I also want something aesthetically pleasing. I was thinking of painting the steel in shiny black paint that would help blend the panels into the dark color minivan. Plus long as it looks well taken care of I belive I will enjoy the benefits of increased ability to travel unharrassed be it cops or concerned community members.

Maybe I could even try to match the color of the van (dark blue) and paint them that and REALLY make it blend. Right now nobody notices my solar and they are just stock silver edges. With the overhang over the rails I feel I gotta put more thought into the design to maintain the same level of stealth.

Would appreciate any advice or suggestions from those who have knowlege in simular solar installs. Thanks in advance.

Get one 48volt panel instead. You need a charge controller that can handle 48 volts in but lots of them do that now.
At 48 volt you can get around 400watts in one panel. I bought one at A1 Solar https://a1solarstore.com/solar-panels/48v-solar-panels.html because they had local pickup for me but if I were out west (or I guess Georgia for a while longer)I might get used from SanTan : https://www.santansolar.com/

 

[Lance22]

Currently my 2 100 watt pannels are mounted to the roof with the wires fed into the crack of the sliding door on the side I only use as an emergency exist.

I didn't want to trash out my current pannels so I went with just adding two more into my system.
Also I didn't want to trash out my current charge controller so that is why I will have 2 systems 300 watts into my 200ah batter which will run my fridge and freezer and the other 100 watts will be into my power station I bought for my electric rice cooker.

I'm more confused than ever... so I am just thinking I am going to do the following.

Use Aluminum angle from Home Depo:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...num-Angle-with-1-16-in-Thick-802597/204273989
Get the 8ft. piece and just cut it down to about 7ft. given each pannel is about 21inches wide. Each side will cover the pannels and be attached to the pannels from under and from the sides. THEN from there I will use U bolts to attach the pannel edges and aluminum to the Minivan's roof rails.

Also as safety measures pannels will be bolted to each other with washers for gaps to help secure them together.

Also I am debating on getting two of the Zinc Plated Steel:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Flat-Bar-with-1-16-in-Thick-802077/204225774

and using that to connect the pannels under them as a secondary/emergency hold

...it just gives me pause when I went shopping looking at them and seeing how easily they were bent to crap on the shelf!

Yes, I would much perfer they were mounted securely and strongly so they don't fly off and cause much greater issues, but looks like I'm not going to get any educated answer given my problem is so unique. I will just have to DO IT and hope for the best and constantly match for issues until I eventually forget to check it just like I did when I first mounted my first 2 pannels via U bolts.

Living in a van is truly like the modern wild wild west, so much is still unknown and not easily found so just gotta go out and do it and learn for myself. Cheers.

 

[MinnesotaDave]

Currently my 2 100 watt pannels are mounted to the roof with the wires fed into the crack of the sliding door on the side I only use as an emergency exist.

I didn't want to trash out my current pannels so I went with just adding two more into my system.
Also I didn't want to trash out my current charge controller so that is why I will have 2 systems 300 watts into my 200ah batter which will run my fridge and freezer and the other 100 watts will be into my power station I bought for my electric rice cooker.

I'm more confused than ever... so I am just thinking I am going to do the following.

Use Aluminum angle from Home Depo:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...num-Angle-with-1-16-in-Thick-802597/204273989
Get the 8ft. piece and just cut it down to about 7ft. given each pannel is about 21inches wide. Each side will cover the pannels and be attached to the pannels from under and from the sides. THEN from there I will use U bolts to attach the pannel edges and aluminum to the Minivan's roof rails.

Also as safety measures pannels will be bolted to each other with washers for gaps to help secure them together.

Also I am debating on getting two of the Zinc Plated Steel:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Flat-Bar-with-1-16-in-Thick-802077/204225774

and using that to connect the pannels under them as a secondary/emergency hold

...it just gives me pause when I went shopping looking at them and seeing how easily they were bent to crap on the shelf!

Yes, I would much perfer they were mounted securely and strongly so they don't fly off and cause much greater issues, but looks like I'm not going to get any educated answer given my problem is so unique. I will just have to DO IT and hope for the best and constantly match for issues until I eventually forget to check it just like I did when I first mounted my first 2 pannels via U bolts.

Living in a van is truly like the modern wild wild west, so much is still unknown and not easily found so just gotta go out and do it and learn for myself. Cheers.

As far as the mounting goes, I used aluminum angle just like the stuff you want to buy except mine was 1.5". I have a fiberglass roof and I used 3M VHB tape to tape the angle to my roof and bolted the panel to the angle with 1/4-20 bolts. I used lock washers on the bolts and I guess some Loctite or similar wouldn't hurt. Whether the tape will hold forever I don't know but people think pretty highly of the stuff. Good luck with your project

 

[MinnesotaDave]

As far as the mounting goes, I used aluminum angle just like the stuff you want to buy except mine was 1.5". I have a fiberglass roof and I used 3M VHB tape to tape the angle to my roof and bolted the panel to the angle with 1/4-20 bolts. I used lock washers on the bolts and I guess some Loctite or similar wouldn't hurt. Whether the tape will hold forever I don't know but people think pretty highly of the stuff. Good luck with your project

Oh yeah and my roof wasn't flat so I notched the aluminum angle where needed to conform to the roof.

 

[onethoughtatatime]

The exploroz forums used to be a great resource for solar panel mouting in adverse conditions. I think the concensus was for 'no hole solar' panel mounting as a Sika polyurethane glue especally made for it. I used generic polyurethane glue. You will not remove this stuff once cured. Angle aluminium might be ok for vhb tape if running the whole length (not sure how you are doing it). I think people in exploroz forums were using those plastic corner and midway mounts with polyurethane glue which has a much small surface contact area. I guess what I am trying to say polyurethane glue is stronger than vhb tape.

 

[Lance22]

The exploroz forums used to be a great resource for solar panel mouting in adverse conditions. I think the concensus was for 'no hole solar' panel mounting as a Sika polyurethane glue especally made for it. I used generic polyurethane glue. You will not remove this stuff once cured. Angle aluminium might be ok for vhb tape if running the whole length (not sure how you are doing it). I think people in exploroz forums were using those plastic corner and midway mounts with polyurethane glue which has a much small surface contact area. I guess what I am trying to say polyurethane glue is stronger than vhb tape.

I'm not gluing aluminum solar panels to my roof. I want to maintain the air barrier to help them cool

To clarify MY ISSUE IS the roof rails do not extend over the entire roof meaning that half of the panels are going to "float" in the front due to not being under the roof rail to hold them up. That is why I am looking at angle metal to attach them all to so the front two pannels are mounted on securly while still floating due to not being under the roof rack.


SEE BELOW notice the rails are JUST in the back and right now I have 2 100 watt pannels about 21 inches wide each attached to the rails. However once I add the OTHER 2 pannels the front 1 and 1/2 of the 2nd one are not going to be able to be mounted to the rails. That is the issue im trying to solve.

Im guessing the rails are about 50 inches wide so when I connect my 4 panels it will be about 7 feet long. Which there is plenty of space on the roof, just not the roof rails.
my apologies for not clarifying what my mounting issue is.

 

[onethoughtatatime]

I was responding MinnesotaDave's comment of vhb tape for aluminium L brackets.

 

[Happy Camper]

Lance, I completely understand about not wanting to throw away your current panels and controller.

But if a 400 watt 48 volt panel and controller will fit without being super expensive, it seems like a better way to go.

You can always sell your current panels and controller to offset the costs. I'm sure there are plenty of people that would be interested.

Check the costs of the extra 100 watt panels, mounting, and other things needed to extend you current system vs the 400 watt 48v setup. If it's fairly close in price, you only have one panel to think about. And you have an upgraded system.

Not saying you should do it. But don't dismiss it out of hand because of your current setup. It's always worth exploring all options.

 

[abnorm]

However once I add the OTHER 2 pannels the front 1 and 1/2 of the 2nd one are not going to be able to be mounted to the rails. That is the issue im trying to solve.

That's a lot of Uplift at the front edge of the panels for those roof racks........I think you will need an additional thru-anchor hold down near the windshield.