HELP PLEASE: Questions about repainting the interior and exterior of a Class C motorhome and redoing the exterior graphi

[magentawave]

I have some questions about repainting the interior <span style="text-decoration: underline;">and</span> exterior of a Class C motorhome and also for redoing the exterior graphics please...<br /><br /><br /><strong>PAINTING THE EXTERIOR:</strong><br /><br />1) Does painting aluminum or fiberglass require special auto paint or can I use regular single-stage auto paint?<br /><br />2) What is the best way to redo the graphics on the outside (stripes, etc.)? Paint or adhesive backed vinyl?<br /><br />4) If the old worn out graphics are vinyl, what is the best way to remove them? Use a heat gun or something like Goof Off or WD40?<br /><br /><br /><br /><strong>PAINTING THE INTERIOR:</strong><br /><br />a) Assuming the wallpaper isn't peeling off, can you paint over wall paper?<br /><br />b)&nbsp;Is there a special kind of paint used for painting wallpaper?<br /><br /><br />Thank you! &nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" />

 

[Seraphim]

1. The surface determines the type primer you need: then you can use the one shot auto paint. Without primer, the paint will bubble and peel. When you order the primer from the auto store, let them know what type surface you're painting.

2. How good a painter are you, and how detailed the graphics? Vinyl is easier, and probably cheaper if you're having someone else do it.

3. I'd probably use a heat gun. Haven't had much experience removing graphics, but my buddy's a retired pro and always said use a heat gun.

 

[Seraphim]

A. Yes, but you have to seal/prime the wall paper first - just like painting a vehicle.

 

[Unchained]

I wouldn't paint over wallpaper, esp if it is old. It might not be peeling yet, but if it does, there goes all of your hard work.

 

[rvwandering]

&nbsp;Whether the wallpaper will peel or not depends on the way the motorhome was constructed. If the wallpaper has been bonded to 1/8" plywood it is almost impossible to remove and you shouldn't have any problems with peeling. Just scrub it remove any heavy dirt and grease ,then prime and paint with a good quality interior paint.

 

[magentawave]

I'm still looking for a Class C. I asked the questions about painting to determine if its worth buying something that needs exterior paint, and if I do, then I'll know what I'm getting into because I would do it myself. If I can't do it myself then its not worth buying because the cost to have someone else paint it could be 2 to 4 thousand. I missed out on a super clean Class C today that sold the first day and I know it sold immediately because the price was reasonable and it looked really clean. Cheap older Class C's are plentiful on Craigslist but finding one that still looks really nice is tough. I'm hoping more will come on the market after Labor Day weekend.<br /><br />Thanks for the tips for painting over wallpaper.<br /><br /><br />

 

[Seraphim]

Have you the equipment to paint it yourself? An adequate compressor, spray guns, being the most obvious...

 

[Seraphim]

The cost of painting it yourself isn't going to be cheap either. Shooting a two coat - clear and chroma base - will equate to about $400 per gallon (including additives). My Elkie took a bout a gallon (I'm not skilled and tend to apply too much material per coat) and I can't imagine what a Class C would need for an unskilled painter. 3 gallons? And I painted my Elkie 7 years ago, so my figures are probably low, PLUS my buddy owns a shop, and I was getting shop price on the materials.

For a one shot (acrylic enamel) cut those figures in half. maybe. I'm not a great material estimator lol.

That doesn't include all the time sanding and buffing.

 

[magentawave]

I don't own equipment any longer but a friend said I can use his equipment and shop if it comes to that. IF I do this, and thats a big IF, then I would use single stage acrylic. The reason I say IF is because the only way I'd do this is if I find a killer deal with low miles and super clean interior but it needs exterior paint. Back when I was a cabinetmaker I used to often shoot my own work but that was lacquer which is waaaay easier to work with than auto paint because if you get a run you can sand it out within minutes and shoot over it. No big deal, but you probably know thats not the case with a "rubbery" paint like acrylic. And what do you do about drips with acrylics? Wait until it fully dries hard, sand, and then re-shoot? And how easy is it to spot or touch up a little area with acrylic?

 

[Seraphim]

as in most cases the proper prep is what takes the time.

<br /><br />+1<br /><br />Sand down the acrylic runs after it hardens&nbsp;and lightly layer over the area. Then sand and buff. I'm not sure if it works with acrylic (I've only used it with clear coat) but there's a blending additive which helps the repair coat lay down more smoothly overtop existing paint.