HELP: Condensation Problem & still very cold living inside my Truck Camper shell

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thank you, but what kind of small heater should i use? small ones.
recommend Chinese diesel heater, cheap dry heat. Also used on boats and in semi trucks. Two versions available on amazon, 2kw and 5kw. Two moving parts, Fuel dosing pump and fan motor. Very small unit. 6x7x16 inches 5kw model
Amount of fuel used depends on outside temp.
Does require 12 volt battery. Draws 10 amps at start up, drops to 3 to 5 amps running.
My camper trailer is 28 feet long, usual height and width. Present temp outside is 4 degrees f.
Have used 1/4 gallon (1 quart) diesel last 24 hours, inside temp maintained 68/70 degrees. When outside temp range in 40 and higher, 3 gallons lasts me about a week. or more.
2 words of caution, Once started the unit does not stop completely. Another caution, use a separate deep cycle marine battery. Your starting battery will be depleted over night and damaged by being deeply discharged. The heater has an auto shut down feature when battery voltage drops below safe voltage.
Another caution just came to mind . DO NOT disconnect power to unit once started. High temps inside will damage the unit. Use manual shutdown feature and wait for cool down to take place, (about 3 to 4 minutes)
2 openings to outside air required, both about 2 inches near each other. One for exhaust the other for intake combustion air. Both downward facing through the floor.
Keep exhaust away from intake so that intake does not ingest exhaust air using provided flexible tubes supplied.
I have 5 of them. 1st one cost $98 us, present cost about $150 us. and rising. from Amazon.
zero clearance around unit is ok, never gets warm to touch. Heated air discharge gets uncomfortably warm but not combustible.
 
Present temp outside is 4 degrees f.
Have used 1/4 gallon (1 quart) diesel last 24 hours, inside temp maintained 68/70 degrees. When outside temp range in 40 and higher, 3 gallons lasts me about a week. or more.
So it looks like from this that the colder it is outside the less fuel that it uses? I'm trying to figure out the fuel usage and going this direction. It looks like it uses about $2 worth of diesel a day in very cold weather. I think It would probably use more fuel on colder days. It also draws on the battery system. My new Martin Catalytic uses three 1lb bottles in a day and costs me $ 0.15 cents to refill each bottle. That's on the low setting, running all 24 hours, and the space is a typical low top passenger van with excellent insolation and tightly controlled ventilation. I don't know if a diesel heater can run down to 1500btu or not. I can heat the van on $.050 cents or less per day. That's $15 per month compared to my apartment that is around $120 per month.
 
So I looked up a diesel heater's fuel usage. It will run for 4 days on 2.6 gallons. So at $3.60 a gallon that comes to $2.40 per day. I could run two Martin catalytic heaters for less than half of that cost and there is very little drain on the battery that runs my condensation exhaust system. I have one down draft 12 volt computer fan that pulls air from the heated room and dumps it out low in the mechanical space, through the floor, provided for my 20lbs propane bottle. A very small window cracked open is my source air that is part of the tilt out window in the side cargo door. There is an adjustable screen window on the RV door just inside the cargo door that allows me to set a perfect size ventilation intake. The same configuration works in summer if I want to run a low watt usage swamp cooler at the same side door. This setup is all about condensation in winter and cooling in summer. A swamp cooler will take the interior down 25 degrees from the ambient outdoor, in the shade, temperature. So I think I have designed an excellent system that uses very little electricity.
 
Anyone tried using a heated vest? They run off a rechargeable battery that fits in your pocket. Batteries seem to be in the ~40-50 W-hr range, and they last 3-10 hrs depending on the setting. Ideally you wear it over a thin shirt and under a jacket. Lots of glowing reviews, but I'm kinda skeptical, since even at rest the human body generates ~100W of heat, and these things are only adding an extra 5-15W or so.

Here's a review page: https://wildproofgear.com/best-heated-vests/
 
LOL, did I do the arithmetic wrong? I get 20 times 1lb tank from each barbecue tank. A full tank costs about $12. That comes to $.60 cents a 1lb refill. Yep. I did the math wrong. OK, so it cost about the same as the other at $2 per day. The Martin sells for around $108 on Amazon. People give a way the green bottles when they are empty.
 
If you are using a heater a lot, why not hook it up to the 20lb tank?
 
If you are using a heater a lot, why not hook it up to the 20lb tank?
Excellent question. As you might know Bob Wells has a recent video on doing that. He even shows where to get a fitting, filter, and I hope regulator to drop the pressure down. The Martin Catalytic heater has nice legs on it to stabilize it when a 1lb tank is attached. The unit has a tip over cutoff for safety. That all works great in my van and takes up far less space. I already have a dedicated space for my 20lbs tank. It's in the mechanical room at the back of the van where air is exhausted out and down through the floor. So I have my propane safety already designed in the van build. I like the ease of being able to have the heat on in the van and still have the barbecue running out back in the outdoor kitchen. I use a drop down regulator with a quick connect hose for the water heater, barbecue, and flat top griddle, out back where the 20lb goes. I don't cook with gas inside. I use a Ninja Foodi and an induction cooktop inside. I'm dealing with condensation this way. My breathing is enough for that to deal with in a small space. No point in adding cooking with a gas flame to all that.
 
So it looks like from this that the colder it is outside the less fuel that it uses? I'm trying to figure out the fuel usage and going this direction. It looks like it uses about $2 worth of diesel a day in very cold weather. I think It would probably use more fuel on colder days. It also draws on the battery system. My new Martin Catalytic uses three 1lb bottles in a day and costs me $ 0.15 cents to refill each bottle. That's on the low setting, running all 24 hours, and the space is a typical low top passenger van with excellent insolation and tightly controlled ventilation. I don't know if a diesel heater can run down to 1500btu or not. I can heat the van on $.050 cents or less per day. That's $15 per month compared to my apartment that is around $120 per month.
I must have miss quoted fuel use. The reason I chose Chines Diesel Heaters was several. First was that I had used them for many years before, a known device. (Long haul truck driver in very cold climates) Another was that they provided dry heat. Another was I had used them over time. I did change trucks from time to time, some with no auxiliary heat source, which required me to find something temporary, I chose Buddy Heater. those heaters used propane for fuel. the by product of that heat was moisture, lots of it. In cold climates Ice would form inside on windows and exposed metal surfaces. Anything cloth felt damp (blankets, pillows, clothes) In addition, later I found mold growing under the inside shell on the metal walls of the cab. Fuel cost seemed about the same for both.
Because The truck was equipped with 4 to 6 huge batteries, there was no concern about electrical power.
I was always happy to get my truck back that had the diesel heat.
I now live in a large camper trailer which has a propane furnace. It too provides a dry heat but is very expensive to use. So I installed , you guessed it, a Chines Diesel Heater. The climate where I am now, for the last two months ranges between 35 degrees to a recent Low of Minus 5, with wind chill to minus 20.
The 5kw model that I use would be too much for a van. The 2kw model would be a better choice.
I use 2 deep cycle marine batteries which I recharge every day from solar or a generator. recently due to short days and heavy cloud cover, the generator is the main source used for recharge. there is a fuel cost for that also.
My budget is flexible so I don't keep close track of short term costs. For example I do not factor in comfort level or long term replacement or repair cost or how trouble free the unit is.
In 2 years I have not given a thought to the heater, I just push the button and it works.
In fact, thinking about it last night, I decided to give the thing a good cleaning inside and out. Took about an hour. Replaced the motor bearings while I was at it. A long time ago, I had ordered a repair kit which after some searching I found. Price tag at the time was $3.00. Soap and water, a can of compressed air, two flat bladed screw drivers to use to pry off the blower impellers, Alan wrench, Phillips screw driver, #10 and #13 open end wrench, a few cuss words to make things go easier--It was done.
Re-installed it, runs like new. Then of course getting the carbon off my hands,, now that's some nasty stuff. Good for another two years. May have to wash my hands again before that time arrives but we shall see.
Through the summer coming, I'll be traveling the northern tear of states and then into fall and winter to the Southwest where I'll only be using the heater once in a while is my guess.
What ever source of heat you chose, you can always change your mind. That will give you something to do and keep you out of mischief.
 
Hi! everyone, i am new to this truck/car/van living. I am converting my truck camper shell into a livable area. it is almost done, but i tried to spend the night in there, but it is still very cold, and there is condensation problem. I opened my two windows a little, and i also used reflectix for insulation, i got it from Home Depot (i put it on the floor underneath a large piece of wood, and all the windows have one too, but it is not good enough to block out the cold or retain the heat inside the camper shell).

** So does anyone has any advice to solve these two problems: to keep the heat inside my camper truck shell and solve the condensation problem.

tata
Yes I do. When you breath you expel moisture, you also sweat moisture. Fact of life.
If you use any kind of open flame, one of the by products is moisture. Moisture in the surrounding air which will conduct heat. make you feel cold. In fact it will be cold.
The not so secret secret is to make dry heat and expel the moisture.
To do that you must make heat in an enclosed space expelling moisture outside of your living space including any exhaust needed to make the heat in the first place.(fuel) (candle propane etc.)
Electric heat is dry heat. A furnace has an enclosed space to burn fuel with a heat exchanger, exhaust and moisture expelled to the outside. That's it!
So a small furnace of some kind, or electric heat. (electric heat is too expensive).
In the 1930s the Germans made small "parking Heater" for cars and trucks. Those were high quality and are to this day available, Look up Parking Heater on the Google.
Recently, the Chines have produced an in-expensive version of both of the German parking heaters. German versions are around $1000, Chines versions around $150 on Amazon.
Recently I've seen what's called "all in one" version of the parking heater with included fuel tank. The other iteration has the heater and other hardware, including a tank for fuel, sort of a diy version of the all in one.
Both will require an exhaust and intake opening in the floor or wall, plus a 12 volt power source.
A propane enclosed heater will require more or less the same intake and exhaust opening, plus power source to produce dry heat. cost of operating either type is about the same. The propane version is not budget friendly, but neither is the parking heater.
Lastly, a catalytic heater does not require an exhaust or intake. runs on propane but does use fuel, therefore produces moisture into the living space.
Lots to consider huh?
 
Welcome to vehicular living. It's always an adventure.

Reflectix is aluminum foil covered mylar bubble pack material. It is useful as a radiant barrier. Aluminum foil is useless as an insulator. Foam insulation sheets, spray foam, corrugated cardboard, or carpet pad and carpet can actually insulate. Insulation can keep in the heat you have.

Fuels like propane, diesel fuel, charcoal, and candle wax are usually called hydrocarbons. They are made mostly of hydrogen and carbon. When burned with oxygen they make CO2 and water. When you exhale, your breath contains water. Condensation will be a problem. A burning device that puts the exhaust outside reduces the inside moisture. A wood stove with a chimney to outside, a propane RV furnace, or a diesel heater will do the job. An unvented propane heater like a Mr. Heater Little Buddy makes for serious moisture. A camp stove has the same moisture problem. With breathing and combustion you must ventilate, ventilate, and ventilate.

If you have a place to plug in to commercial power, a small 3 speed 1000 watt electric heater will keep you warm and dry. I have a Little Buddy and an electric heater. For me, staying in Florida helps a lot. Last night it got cold, too cold for my taste. Warm clothes and a sleeping bag help with the cold but the moisture is a constant problem. I hate scraping frost and ice off the inside of the windshield. That is very rare in Florida.
Havelock makes wool insulation batts for vanlife. The wool is a better insulation as it absorbs moisture, then releases it when it is drier. It won't outgas dangerous chemicals into your small space. More expensive short-term than fiberglass or foam, but so much better. You would be more comfortable if you took the time to insulate your space. It won't heat the space, but it will keep heat generated by your body (and body of any pet you might have) in the space longer.
 
Hi! everyone, i am new to this truck/car/van living. I am converting my truck camper shell into a livable area. it is almost done, but i tried to spend the night in there, but it is still very cold, and there is condensation problem. I opened my two windows a little, and i also used reflectix for insulation, i got it from Home Depot (i put it on the floor underneath a large piece of wood, and all the windows have one too, but it is not good enough to block out the cold or retain the heat inside the camper shell).

** So does anyone has any advice to solve these two problems: to keep the heat inside my camper truck shell and solve the condensation problem.

tata
Our rig -- 1996 Ford CF8000 we converted to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle in 2003.
.
Our interior -- 7w x 12 l x 7h, about 700cf.
I insulated with adhesive-back acoustic insulation against the outer wall, a gap, then one-inch pink-board, another air-gap, then two-inch foil-side poly.
.
Our windows are 3612 -- three feet wide by a foot tall -- dual-pane sliders designed for a stand-still house.
I mounted these at our eye-level standing inside, about eight feet above pavement.
.
We rarely need *one* of our three Wave 3 catalytic heaters above 40°f.
We always open two opposite windows, sometimes a half-inch, sometimes an inch.
The escaping warm air carries humidity.
.
During the day while we are away from the rig, we open all the windows.
And we park in the sun.
.
Nearly two decades full-time live-aboard, three RedHeelers and two adults (plus a frequent yummy third!), this works for us.
.
An aside:
I fabricated our bed platform using expanded metal, similar to stout window-screen.
This ventilates the potential moisture area under the mattress.
 
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