Heat/cool with small generator?

[FreeWheelinTravel]

I recently bought a 26 foot shuttle bus and am working with someone on converting it. I'm interested in installing a mini-split unit like this one: http://amzn.to/2yx9CvD but I want to use a small, QUIET generator while urban camping. How do I figure out how many watts that uses to see if it's compatible with the generator I'd prefer? Are there lower-wattage options I could consider? Air conditioning is my greater need as I could use a Mr. Buddy heater, but I'd prefer a system that can heat and cool for when I have an electrical hookup. Thanks for any info!

 

[BinDerSmokDat]

You scroll down on the Amazon page, click the link for the specification page.

You need to know the watts.
It lists 792 (282-1087) for cooling mode, about 100 watts higher for each of those numbers for cooling.
The 792 is input and is the amount it pulls during regular cooling operation.
Just like your car going down a road doing 50mph.
Barely cooling it draws 282 and at full power cooling 1087.

I'm not sure if 1087 includes the start-up surge wattage, about 10% of some electric motors.
Modern AC systems can bring motors online in a steady ramp up to full speed to avoid that.

To be safe, figure 1200 watts, about 8 amps.
You need an inverter and generator that are comfortable pumping out about 800 watts steadily and can handle surges to about 1100-1200.

Keep in mind on home split systems, they are not engineered for the rigors and vibrations of RV life.
I seals, brazed condensers and evaporators are designed to last in a stable, stationary environment. They are not designed for the added vibration and movement of travel.

I have a top of the line Mitsubishi split system in my house.
The wall units are very quiet and the outside units are quieter then window AC's. The generator will be the loudest part of this system.

 

[jonsun]

without a hard start capacitor you'll need at least a 2500w surge sized generator. Really should be 3kw. I have a 10k btu (sear 12) unit and my 2kw cannot run it.

Not to be a downer but you do understand you're talking hundreds of dollars, possibly up to a thousand, in fuel a month?

And one more issue...those little inverter generators hold around a gallon of fuel. you're going to be putting gas in it 5-10x a day.

 

[highdesertranger]

not to be a double downer but heat pumps are very inefficient. below 40 degrees it won't be able to keep up. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

And even reliable Hondas aren't designed like the heavy diesels for many thousands of running hours between engine rebuilds.

Converting to propane (dual fuel) after the break-in period will help a bit, and more safely let you use large tanks.

 

[tx2sturgis]

not to be a double downer but heat pumps are very inefficient.  below 40 degrees it won't be able to keep up. 

Air to air heat pumps are anywhere from 50% to 200% MORE efficient than simple electric heating, as long as outside temperatures are not too cold. For 15 years I had 2 large window unit heat-pumps in my home and until they finally wore out, they worked quite well.

And yes, at or below freezing, they usually switch over to built-in electric heating coils or strips.

In fact EVERY compressor driven refrigeration system, freezers, air conditioners, etc, is a one-way heat pump. And we use those all the time.

What we typically call a 'heatpump' is actually just a two-way compressor-driven refrigeration system.

If expected operating temperatures are often below freezing, then yes, an air-to-air heat pumps will not work well, or at all.

 

[jonsun]

And even reliable Hondas aren't designed like the heavy diesels for many thousands of running hours between engine rebuilds.

Converting to propane (dual fuel) after the break-in period will help a bit, and more safely let you use large tanks.8

Worked as a security guard for a while. We had a heat pump for our shack. Worked until the teens then started dropping off. Maybe in low 20´s it started. At -10 to -20 in peak of winter we used a couple space heaters and turned it off.

Anything above freezing would run you out.

 

[FreeWheelinTravel]

Thanks for the info. Is there a more efficient system I should consider? Portable AC, maybe?

 

[tx2sturgis]

Assuming you have insulated or will insulate, and heat gain/loss from the windows will be dealt with, nothing 'exotic' is needed. Everything is off-the-shelf, standard big-box-store products.

Right now, the most 'bang for the buck' for you might be:

Window AC unit 5000 to 10,000 BTU,

Portable generator, 1500 to 2500 watts depending on the AC unit,

Electric space heater(s) (5200 BTU each) for when you have shore power,

Small to mid-size propane heater, again, 5000 to 10,000 BTU.

If this bus will remain un-insulated and with clear windows absorbing desert sun all day, then you will need to double the values and probably triple the cost.

If you are planning to boondock in the mountains in the deep part of winter, then again, more and bigger hardware will be needed.

 

[John61CT]

Most of the portable AC units are neither effective nor that efficient.

Two are hoses better than one.

I would get 2x Honda 2000 to hook up together, then take one to a dealer in the brands you want willing to let you live-trial floor samples, along with a Killawatt.

Tell him you'll buy two identical units, one or two BTU steps down from the biggest that one gennie will run, say 70-80% of the max workable draw.

Flexibility, efficiency, redundancy, ability to charge your batts at the same time.

 

[FreeWheelinTravel]

Unfortunately a window AC probably won't work for my setup. But yes for generators I am interested in that Honda or the Yamaha EF2000iSv2. I won't be full-time, BTW... likely 2-4 weeks at a time and mostly in spring/summer/fall.

 

[BC Guy]

not to be a double downer but heat pumps are very inefficient.  below 40 degrees it won't be able to keep up.   highdesertranger

The new(ish) Cold Climate heat pumps work down to -25 degrees Celsius.
http://ecologix.ca/products/cold-climate-heat-pumps/

 

[cherterr]

You've probably already done what you're gonna DO.. BUT.. My 2cents...

I installed a similar unit in my 'granny Cabin'. I LOVE it.. BUT.. NO WAY would I attempt to power that sucker on the road. I had to have TWO 30 AMP breakers JUST for the A/C. So.... yeah.

Might want to consider chopping a hole in a wall of van for window unit ORrrrr... I saw one put into a passenger window using a wood frame with no damage to vehicle. I think it was on YT.