1st Build: Mini van with IT workspace & Bed

[maki2]

Walmart, hardware stores, pet stores and laundry aisle of grocery stores all sell enzyme products that neutralize pet and baby or incontinence odors meaning urine and feces smells. Kids and Pets is one of the more common brands found. Most carpet and upholstery, spot cleaning, products also contain those odor killing enzymes.

 

[HomelessLandlord]

I'll stick with the technical side of things. Getting yourself set up like you want isn't that difficult or super expensive. So let's get into it!

First thing you'll want to get is a USB hub. If you have a USB C connection on your laptop that would be the preferred connection. This will allow you to have your monitor and other computer items hooked up constantly for backseat use. When I used to take my laptop home from work I had a hub connected to keyboard and mouse, monitor, printers, and whatever else I needed in the office. When I went home I unplugged the hub and went home. Move to the back and plug in the hub. Easy peasy.

USB C Hub, QGeeM USB C to HDMI Multiport Adapter 4k, 7 in 1 USB C Dongle with 100W Power Delivery,3 USB 3.0 Ports, SD/TF Card Reader, Compatible with MacBook Ipad HP Dell XPS and More Type C Device https://a.co/d/c7vdgV0

You'll need a way to mount your monitor so it's out of the way, but accessible when you need it. This isn't a bad mounting option. Has good reviews and it's simple and removable later. There are other options, but most will involve more work and possible expense.

All Sturdy Aluminum Alloy Metal Short Length Type TV/Monitor headrest Mount Bracket with a Steel Plate That has 75 & 100mm VESA Standard Holes https://a.co/d/cqpXbpq

When you're up front and need to use the laptop, you need an easy way to use it. This mount requires loosening one bolt to attach it.

Mobotron MS-526 Heavy-duty Car VAN SUV iPad Laptop Mount Stand Holder https://a.co/d/gQFZFn2

Having a wireless keyboard and mouse will be essential to moving around in the van. If you have one already then that's great. If not, here's a cheap but solid unit. You can also set up your laptop to work with the lid closed. So you can have it closed somewhere just plugged into power and the hub. Takes up less space.

Logitech MK345 Wireless Combo Full-Sized Keyboard with Palm Rest and Comfortable Right-Handed Mouse, 2.4 GHz Wireless USB Receiver, Compatible with PC, Laptop https://a.co/d/fmykCmQ

When working in back you'll need a good workspace. This lap desk can hold your keyboard and mouse, as well as some papers if need be. It can also be used as a utility board of sorts. Meal prep, cutting board, whatever you might need a convenient flat surface for. Definitely multi use that can be stored out of the way.

32" Portable Curved Shape Light Wood Lap Desk by Trademark Innovations https://a.co/d/g6LWi4D

You'll want to use a 12v laptop charger when you're on the road. Using a 120v ac adapter is just wasting energy.

LVSUN Universal Laptop Charger 90W 12-24V One for All - Slim AC Adapter Power Supply Cord with Dual USB Ports for Mobile/Tablet - Compatible with Lenovo HP Toshiba Samsung Acer Asus and Most Notebooks https://a.co/d/j0iXEEN

If you have specific questions let me know. This is kinda my wheelhouse. Also see about getting a 12v adapter for the monitor as well. Again, it'll save energy and these things already work on DC.

Thanks again so much for taking the time to offer suggestions. I do have a question. I need a way to switch from getting power from the car to getting power from my batteries. So when I'm driving, I flip a switch and the power comes from car. When I stop, I flip it and it feeds from batteries like NOCO.

Even better, would be if it works this way:

Driving:
Lithium Batteries are being charged by car power
Devices getting power from car

Parked:
Devices getting power from lithium Batteries

So, would be maybe like, 2 car power plugs, connected to a switcher. You plug one into car power and the other into lithium battery like NOCO. So you can switch the source of the power from car to your batteries.

 

[HomelessLandlord]

I'll stick with the technical side of things. Getting yourself set up like you want isn't that difficult or super expensive. So let's get into it!

First thing you'll want to get is a USB hub. If you have a USB C connection on your laptop that would be the preferred connection. This will allow you to have your monitor and other computer items hooked up constantly for backseat use. When I used to take my laptop home from work I had a hub connected to keyboard and mouse, monitor, printers, and whatever else I needed in the office. When I went home I unplugged the hub and went home. Move to the back and plug in the hub. Easy peasy.

USB C Hub, QGeeM USB C to HDMI Multiport Adapter 4k, 7 in 1 USB C Dongle with 100W Power Delivery,3 USB 3.0 Ports, SD/TF Card Reader, Compatible with MacBook Ipad HP Dell XPS and More Type C Device https://a.co/d/c7vdgV0

You'll need a way to mount your monitor so it's out of the way, but accessible when you need it. This isn't a bad mounting option. Has good reviews and it's simple and removable later. There are other options, but most will involve more work and possible expense.

All Sturdy Aluminum Alloy Metal Short Length Type TV/Monitor headrest Mount Bracket with a Steel Plate That has 75 & 100mm VESA Standard Holes https://a.co/d/cqpXbpq

When you're up front and need to use the laptop, you need an easy way to use it. This mount requires loosening one bolt to attach it.

Mobotron MS-526 Heavy-duty Car VAN SUV iPad Laptop Mount Stand Holder https://a.co/d/gQFZFn2

Having a wireless keyboard and mouse will be essential to moving around in the van. If you have one already then that's great. If not, here's a cheap but solid unit. You can also set up your laptop to work with the lid closed. So you can have it closed somewhere just plugged into power and the hub. Takes up less space.

Logitech MK345 Wireless Combo Full-Sized Keyboard with Palm Rest and Comfortable Right-Handed Mouse, 2.4 GHz Wireless USB Receiver, Compatible with PC, Laptop https://a.co/d/fmykCmQ

When working in back you'll need a good workspace. This lap desk can hold your keyboard and mouse, as well as some papers if need be. It can also be used as a utility board of sorts. Meal prep, cutting board, whatever you might need a convenient flat surface for. Definitely multi use that can be stored out of the way.

32" Portable Curved Shape Light Wood Lap Desk by Trademark Innovations https://a.co/d/g6LWi4D

You'll want to use a 12v laptop charger when you're on the road. Using a 120v ac adapter is just wasting energy.

LVSUN Universal Laptop Charger 90W 12-24V One for All - Slim AC Adapter Power Supply Cord with Dual USB Ports for Mobile/Tablet - Compatible with Lenovo HP Toshiba Samsung Acer Asus and Most Notebooks https://a.co/d/j0iXEEN

If you have specific questions let me know. This is kinda my wheelhouse. Also see about getting a 12v adapter for the monitor as well. Again, it'll save energy and these things already work on DC.

How can I setup a splitter, so when driving, my batteries get charged and when parked, my batteries become the source of power for my lights and devices?

When I drive, I flip a switch to activate charging from car power. When I park, I flip it again to take power from my batteries.

If I was able to set something up that was "smart" I could have it check for car power first. IF it sees car power, then use it. If not, use the batteries. Additional logic could say, if you see car power, then start charging things.

 

[bullfrog]

Somehow I think you are missing the point of what isolation relays can do which will I believe could be used to do what you wish to do. Usually they are used to keep from running down the vehicle battery while the engine is not running as they isolate the vehicle battery from a house battery which is then the only power source to devices. While running the alternator is powering all devices as well as charging the house battery usually with no problems. Am I missing something? If you have only the vehicle battery then carry a jumper pack in case you discharge the vehicle battery accidentally.

 

[HomelessLandlord]

So I put up curtains! Came up with simple way to mount. Take zipties and make loop. Squeeze the locking part under the roof panel. Done! Seems strong enough. I have privacy black out curtains up now seperating back from front.

Also finished my passenger swivel. Super easy. Take of rails, flip em, insall chair backwards.

Now starting to put velcro tabs everywhere to stick things to, like ziplock bags for trash or whatever else.

Think I have a leak in exhaust thought. I always seem to smell this exaust smell. Going to take it to muffler place.

Next challenge is ventilation without sunroof. I thought about installing a sunroof, but I'm scared. lol

Also did awesome window templates using foil. I now I have two window carboard templates and it looks GREAT when I put black felt on it. You have to get within 2 feet with bright light to see the felt, otherwise it looks like crazy tint. Also NO light is coming out. I came up with a trick to help this. Black tape on window edges. This way, any gaps in my black outs are hidden, since you STILL can't see light as the tape fills in any imperfections.
I'm actually liking the creative process!

 

[HomelessLandlord]

Somehow I think you are missing the point of what isolation relays can do which will I believe could be used to do what you wish to do. Usually they are used to keep from running down the vehicle battery while the engine is not running as they isolate the vehicle battery from a house battery which is then the only power source to devices. While running the alternator is powering all devices as well as charging the house battery usually with no problems. Am I missing something? If you have only the vehicle battery then carry a jumper pack in case you discharge the vehicle battery accidentally.

I think my setup is very crude which adds complexity. If I simply got a Jackery setup with solar, I'd be good..I think. The Jackery would get charged all day, from sun. Then all devices get power from Jackery. So engine off or on, does not matter. They always get power from the Jackery. Then maybe there is a way to plug the car accessery power to Jackery, so when car is on, it will charge Jackery faster than solar. In this model, driving will automatically result is faster charging of my Jackery. I would not need to think about anything. It would just work as LONG as I make sure I'm not pulling too much power from Jackery so it dies. I think I should try to always have the Jackery static or increasing power in day time, never going backwards, unless its draining so slow that, by night I'll still have enough juice for the night.

Other than that, I'd probably not have everything plugged in to Jackery at once, so I'd have the normal routine of keeping things charged, like you would at home.

 

[bullfrog]

The nice thing about these devices like the Jackery is they can be charged from several sources and they can supply 120 volt AC, 12 volt DC as well as many have USB ports and they are portable. They are complete systems less the external power to charge them. Biggest problem in the past is they were expensive but that is changing. My biggest worry now would be if any component in the self contained unit fails you most likely won’t be able to replace just the component so reliability becomes a concern as replacement will be expensive. There are several threads that discuss them.

 

[Walt]

How can I setup a splitter, so when driving, my batteries get charged and when parked, my batteries become the source of power for my lights and devices?

When I drive, I flip a switch to activate charging from car power. When I park, I flip it again to take power from my batteries.

If I was able to set something up that was "smart" I could have it check for car power first. IF it sees car power, then use it. If not, use the batteries. Additional logic could say, if you see car power, then start charging things.

I have my lithium battery plugged into the cigarette lighter when I drive. The fridge and whatever else needs charging is plugged into the Rockpals unit. When I stop, I simply unplug the unit from the cigarette lighter and the items I am powering (fridge, battery charger, laptop) continue to be powered by the Rockpals lithium. Same for Jackery and almost every other one of these "power stations". Simple and convenient. Not actually certain I need to unplug when I turn the car off, but I do just in case.

 

[Happy Camper]

The separate battery and inverter would be cheaper. But the battery pack should hold value once your situation clears itself up. It's just a matter of what makes sense for you.

Not sure that solar will fit what you're trying to do if you require stealth. Smaller thin film glued to the top of the van might be stealthy, but won't have the output a regular panel would.

 

[afblangley]

The separate battery and inverter would be cheaper. But the battery pack should hold value once your situation clears itself up. It's just a matter of what makes sense for you.

I do not think folks without supply connections (access to discount pricing) can create a DIY system that replicates the functionality more cheaply than off the shelf power stations. Since power stations can be charged via solar, vehicle, or shore power, lots of components are required. Doing that with a standalone Li battery would require a BMS, B2B charger, a charger inverter, plus various ports, wires, and connectors. Furthermore, a vehicle based system isn't portable. The of the best features of power stations is they can be taken out and charged wherever it's convenient (eg. library, restaurant, laundromat, work place).

Jackery power stations are not a good value. Consider the Bluetti EB3A if the power needs are modest or EcoFlow Delta 2 if something larger is needed.

 

[1zacster]

For reasons I'll avoid getting into here, I need to setup a van to live in my backyard for 6-12 months in Northeast, where it might get 7 below for a short while, but I really just need to handle down to 40oF. I'll find places to stay if it gets colder.

-I will be plugged into an extension cord for AC power supply, but would like power storage available, to run a fridge for 12 hours if needed
-I need to be able to work in van for 8-10 hours a day doing IT work (would love a 25" screen on a swivel maybe; but can just use laptop screen if I have to)
-Want bed for 6 foot tall me, who sometimes has back trouble, but rarely
-I only care about reliability; may want to do 120 mile round trips, twice a week for work

Looks like Sienna is a good choice? I dont care about looks, so I'd LOVE to save cash on a banged up looking van that is mechanically sound. I actually prefer if it looks pretty crappy outside. I see stuff for just under $3k for 150 mile+ Siienna

How should I setup my workstation? Upgrade driver seat to 360 swivel one, that I can rotate to the rear, where I could have a table setup for laptop and a bigger screen on a swivel? Then do I make a custom bed frame/box and get some kind of smaller mattress on Amazon or get some kind of raw material that I can make mattress out of?

Then what will store enough power to run a fridge for 12 hours, if I have to park away from the house for a bit? Can I install insulation temporarily with Velcro or something, then sell the materials when done?

What would be a good heater to use?
I might be able to setup some things in my unfinished basement, like maybe I just plan to keep food in there? Maybe even do something with heating where I have outdoor heater and connect duct from basement into van somehow? I can take on the aircraft parked model of external supply of power and HVAC?

Also, how hard to do a custom bed that I can fold up like a futon? Maybe get an actual futon? Ikea stuff maybe?
Finally for what I need is Sienna a good choice for this hybrid #VanLife objective?

Thanks so much!

I used this site for reference: https://trailandsummit.com/what-is-the-best-minivan-for-camping/

I work in IT and lived in a full size van for a while, now bought a travel trailer and work out of it. A minivan is going to be very tight for this setup and I don't recommend it, you should really try to get a fullsize van because even that was super tight for me.
-6 foot bed, you are going to need a front to back bed layout
-screen mount - mount plywood to the wall then screw a vesa mount into this and mount the display~100C rated cable since it's going to have amp specs higher than its wire size and be very flexible.
-heating, Chinese diesel heaters are great and don't add moisture to the air like propane does. resistive heating is just going to immediately drain your batteries
-fold up bed - bad idea, just make a lengthwise bed that is also a chair, and use under it for storage.
-power sounds like a normal solar generator meets your needs, but if you're going to DIY the Renogy 50 amp dc to dc charger with MPPT is great. it allows both solar and alternator charging.