Have solar components, hesitant to DIY

[coffeewitholiver]

Hi all,
I've been on the fence about posting this question, as it might be asking too much.  I have a fairly complete setup for solar (most wiring, the batteries, panels, charger, inverter, etc) and am being told I should be able to install it myself, but I don't know where to start and am hoping maybe some people here might enjoy helping me through the install.  I can give very specific information with pictures if anyone IS willing to help me.  I've spent hours reading up on solar installs but kinda want my hand held through it a bit, I guess. 

Anyone out there have some extra time and a willingness to jump in this with me?

Thanks in advance for reading this and considering it. :

Parker

 

[highdesertranger]

do you want help through the forum or do you want someone to physically be there and do the work? either way will work. if you come to RTR you will have plenty of help or you can just ask her and we will walk you through it. highdesertranger

 

[GotSmart]

What is it you are doing?

How are you going to mount the panels?
Where does the battery go?  Where will the controller be?  How about a control/distribution box? Lights?   Lots of questions

First.   What is this on?

 

[coffeewitholiver]

highdesertranger ~ I am looking for help through the forums now, but if I run into snags, I would definitely want actual, hands-on help.  I won't be able to make the RTR this winter, or I'd do it that way as others seem to have done.  That would be a great way to do it!  

GotSmart ~ I have a house truck that the system will go in.  I have this stuff:

http://amsolar.com/rv-complete-solar-systems/99-160sigmpp for the panels, with tilting capability
plus 3 more 160 watt panels
(4) Lifeline gpl-6ct batteries, already in a box I've built in the space they are going permanently
https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Ameri...id=1475513409&sr=1-1&keywords=samlex+sa300112 for my pure sine inverter
plus a good sized roll of 12/2 nm-b wire
I know there's still a few things to get, like a 30 amp breaker for the inverter, but I should be able to make a reasonable start.

Some pictures of the space: 

the batteries are in place on the floor (in a box) between these two cabinets, up against the wall under the loft.  

Here's what the wall under the loft looks like without the cabinets in place, to give a better idea of that space.  

The inside of the cabinet on the left side is where I think the charger and inverter should go, since it's right next to the batteries, and is both protected and easily accessible.  I have no problem putting holes in this cabinet to run wiring.

The flat roof area behind the opening skylight is 8' by 12'.  

I think this is helpful info?


Thanks again for your replies.
Parker

 

[SternWake]

One thing required will be wire terminations and the tools to properly install them.

Bad electrical connections will be Okay at first, but later cause many headaches, and finding and fixing them is way way way more effort than having done them correctly in the first place.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

If you skimp out on the crimp connectors and the tools here, it will come back and bite you at some point.

The above link is a degree or 3 of overkill for a RV, but how to links should also not show one how to do substandard work as if substandard is the goal.

 

[highdesertranger]

I noticed the nm-b wire. you really don't want to use solid wire for mobile application. that wire is for household applications. for mobile you want stranded wire. highdesertranger

 

[wagoneer]

what is your location?

 

[coffeewitholiver]

One thing required will be wire terminations and the tools to properly install them.

Bad electrical connections will be Okay at first, but later cause many headaches, and finding and fixing them is way way way more effort than having done them correctly in the first place.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

If you skimp out on the crimp connectors and the tools here, it will come back and bite you at some point.

The above link is a degree or 3 of overkill for a RV, but how to links should also not show one how to do substandard work as if substandard is the goal.

I am very comfortable purchasing whatever it is I need to do this properly.  As you can see from what I've purchased so far, I'm trying for long-term quality.  Thanks for the link!

I noticed the nm-b wire.  you really don't want to use solid wire for mobile application.  that wire is for household applications.  for mobile you want stranded wire.  highdesertranger

I've thought about that, and am not sure if I need to worry about that in my particular situation.  My home is stick built, sturdy, and rigid.  The wiring will be run like in a bricks and morter home, with no areas of flexing.  In your opinion, does that change your recommendation for stranded wire?

what is your location?

I'm in Olympia Washington until January 2017. 

Thanks for working with me on this, by the way.
Parker

 

[highdesertranger]

no it doesn't change my mind. what about vibration? just starting your engine and sitting there idling causes vibration. this vibration travels throughout the vehicle. when you are driving the road vibration is even more. in the marine industry you are not allowed to use solid wire. highdesertranger

 

[coffeewitholiver]

no it doesn't change my mind.  what about vibration?  just starting your engine and sitting there idling causes vibration.  this vibration travels throughout the vehicle.  when you are driving the road vibration is even more.  in the marine industry you are not allowed to use solid wire.  highdesertranger

Ah, ok, good to know.  I'll ditch the regular stuff then!

 

[SternWake]

LED lighting does not require very thick wire. So some 18 AWG Zip wire would be more than adequate for running to LED lights.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...wg+zip+wire&rh=n:2858778011,k:12+awg+zip+wire

While low amp draw lighting does not require thick wire, one should still be aware that much wire sold is aluminum, which cannot carry as much current as copper, or copper clad aluminum wire(CCA) which is slightly better, but pure copper wire is best, always, even if overkill.

caveat emptor

Agree with HDR, never use solid wire in a vehicle, boat/airplane.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

I like landscape cable. Its stranded copper with real tough insulation and comes in 10, 12, 14, (16?) ga. Two part, like zip wire so its easy to run.
Found it at Lowes by the foot...good stuff.