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For my own purposes I would solder the connection but only because I have a lot of experience soldering copper pipe (biggest I did was 4") and brazing copper nickel and bronze ( biggest I did was 12") so I know exactly how the copper is going to take the heat. I would not recommend soldering without some solid experience because it does take time using the tools to get good at it. If you are only doing it once I is probably cheaper to have the cables made then buying the tools and parts. Plus the chance of getting it wrong is a factor as well. The chance of someone like me with loads of experience joining metal is much less then someone with no or little experience gett


Getting it wrong.
 
I wonder if someone local like Les Schwab can make cables.

Thanks for all the information, BTW, I really, really appreciate it.
 
Oh boy! I disconnected the batteries and opened every place where wires go and I am really mystified and a bit intimidated, to tell you the truth. I've called a local RV guy to come out to at least tell me what is what and where I might start.
 
you parts should have come with directions which should have schematic drawings. take these drawings and make your own showing all the parts together. you can redo this hand sketch as needed, make sure you keep the final "as built" one in you records. I personally prefer the uninsulated connectors and then use the adhesive lined heat shrink. I find it is easier to visually check the connection, plus I like the crimpers better. also I only use 3m heat shrink. I have never seen anything from harbor freight that is worth 2 cents. highdesertranger
 
They do have schematic drawings but interfacing their components with my RV's set up is my current concern.

Actually, after looking at it for a while, trying to follow it's logic, and talking to a buddy experienced with RV wiring, I figured out a few things and am now back to being fairly confident!

Drawing my own schematic is a great idea. Thanks.
 
I spent the morning opening every spot I could find that had clusters of wires. Some showed nothing new, others were interesting.

The first photo shows where my battery used to be. The red wire goes from the battery, through the battery box, up through the floor and screws into that bar. From the bar I suspect it travels under the rig over to my fuse panel.
Those were the only wires connected to the battery. The smaller red and black wires are for a portable solar panel I used this summer.

battery-box.jpg

That red wire, I believe, is the same large red wire that is attach to the right most and highest coupling in the next photo.

Elec-Panel.jpg

This is also where my RV manual show my "Power Converter" to be. I suspect that it is the thing on the bottom. You can see my 12v panel and to the left of it, my 110v panel.

This panel is just behind the driver's seat and facing out to the side entry door.

Given that there was only one wire connection to the coach battery, I'm figuring (hoping) that I can run the wires from the solar panels down to the coach battery (through the MPPT, of course), connect them to the batteries along with that one wire and, Voila! done deal, solar power IN!

I'm then figuring that I'll put my inverter on the outside of the cabinet, just right of the fuse panel and behind the driver's seat.

I'm a little bit sketchy on exactly how the inverter is going to connect to the panel but I suspect that the red wire coming from the batteries will go to it.
 

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That looks like a magatek converter unit -- fairly common. Known for slowly charging batteries, then overcharging them if left on for a long time. If you are plugged in or run a generator much you should replaced it. Bestconverter.com has conversion kits, or you can do as I did and just replaced the converter section cheaper. (See my blog.)
 
Thanks, I think my new Magnum Inverter/Charger is going to do its job and do it far better. I'll disconnect it and leave it.
 
Finished the "carpentry phase" of the instal today.

I had to remove that one panel.

inverter-and-batt-area-before.jpg

and install a "floor" to get above the vent and water pipes.

Battery-and-Inverter-area-1.jpg
battery-and-inverter-area-2.jpg

I then secured the inverter to the partition, set the battery in a square of wooden stops and secured a fuse and cut-off switch.
inverter,-batts,-fuse-and-switch.jpg

I'll stain it later.


I figured the best place for the MPPT and Inverter Controller and set them both.
mppt-and-inverter-control.jpg

My next challenge is to get wire from the 110 side of the panel to the inverter. They are on opposite sides of the rig.

I need to figure out exactly how to disconnect the old power converter and how to connect the new Inverter to the panel.
fuse-panel.jpg
 

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Yeah! I'm going to get the use of a dry, heated garage for the next few weeks to use for the outside work I have to do on my solar instal!
 
Yes, I will.
I had a RV repairman over the other day who lined me out on how to hook up my inverter to the fuse panel and a few other things. I got it all figured out now!
 
Today, I was able to use the garage of the auto shop next door to my business to do some work on my solar installation.

We turned the heat up and while the garage and my RV warmed up, I ran the line from the batteries, up through a plumbing air vent and to the combiner box on the roof.
Combiner-box.jpg

I then set the feet on the panels and cleaned the fiberglass so the glue with stick solidly.
Panel-Feet-set.jpg

The panels are 21" wide and each overlapped a short sloped area between tow different roof heights. I played around with position the panels so that the feet would all sit on nice flat surfaces.
Finished.jpg

The garage had a beefy enough lift to raise my rig so I drilled holes in the floor and ran the wire from the inverter to the 120 fuse panel.
underside.jpg

I'm waiting on some wires to connect the two batteries together but otherwise I'll close to being done. All my outside work is done, I have to set a few 120v and USB plugs, rewire the stereo, put various compartments back together and clean up! It'll be only a couple more casual days of work.
 

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Yesterday I ran 14/2 from the inverter, but today, as I was hooking up, I noticed the manual said to use 12/2. I called a buddy and he suggested going one step even further and using 10/2. Since it was a fairly nice day and not raining, I drove out and got some 10/2 and spent some quality time under the rig running it. I then connected the IN and OUT AC on the inverter and ran a household plug with two USB ports to a nice convenient spot below my kitchen counter.

Inverter-AC-hook-up.jpg

kitches-counter-plug.jpg

Tomorrow I'll hook the inverter to the AC panel and try to figure out how to redirect my streo from the auto battery to the coach batteries.

After that all I'm waiting on is two USB dashboard plugs and the custom length wires to hook the batteries together.
 

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mark I hope that wire isn't solid. I know a lot of rv manufacturers use it, but you shouldn't use it for mobile applications. in fact it's against coast guard regulations. for use on boats. highdesertranger
 
Mark said:
Tomorrow I'll hook the inverter to the AC panel and try to figure out how to redirect my stereo from the auto battery to the coach batteries.

I'm interested in that as well. Let us know what you found out.
 
Yes I did. All the rest was stranded but what I bought was not, I never even thought about it. Is it a big enough deal for me to get under there and run that wire a THIRD time?


Almost,
The RV tech I had out the other day told me it was as east as running the power wire to the RV (vs. Auto) 12v fuse panel.
We'll see tomorrow!
 

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