If the inverter has AC IN connections, it is an inverter charger, so that when you have grid power you can charge the batteries from this single inverter charger, rather than having both an inverter, and a separate battery charger.
i am not personally familiar with inverter chargers nor magnum products so will offer no more along those lines.
Electrical tape is the devil. Do not use it. it will unravel at some point and leave a sticky mess and possibly cause a short if a hot hits something grounded. Remembering to slide heat shrink tubing over wires to be joined first is an oft made mistake. There is adhesive lined heat shrink tubing and this is the cats meow. While I've made use of harbor freight heat shrink tubing, Ive found recently that it re expands and can be moved around. if it moves around it is allowing in oxygen. if it allows in oxygen it is allowing in corrosion and higher resistance. I figure all the HF heatshrink tubing I've used over the years is compromised and the connection underneath is now compromised and suspect.
Cheap Nylon covered crimps are very problem prone, often they are steel or aluminum instead of tin coated copper. High resistance and will cause voltage drop and connector heating. generally the insulated crimps with clear insulation in red blue or yellow are of good quality. Avoid the harbor freight connectors at all costs. Do not even glance at them unless you are trying to determine what true junk is and what should never be used.
Proper crimping, or Soldering requires not only the right tools, but the right skills. I shudder at some of the crimps and solder connections i've seen over the years. I even shudder when i found a crimp i myself installed 10 years ago before i knew better. It is not only a mechanical connection but an electrical one and they can be really badly done and will cause issues that are very difficult to find the cause of at a later point, when one discovers an issue.
There are many videos on crimping and soldering on U tube. Try to find one by somebody who actually has a brain. many on there actually show you "how it is done" but it is more of how they did it, and how not to do it.
While one can go completely overboard and make things way more difficult than they need to be, one can also do the exact opposite, like crushing a crimp in some pliers and wrap it in electrical tape and call it macaroni, when it should be called a fire or a failure waiting to happen.
A proper crimp will not accept any solder into the crimped area, and soldering can cause the connection to become brittle when solder wicks up the wire. Generally both Soldering and crimping is unnecessary. A good crimp needs no solder, a good solder joint should need no other mechanical means, but should be supported to the wire cannot flex and vibrate. A crimp that needs solder, is a bad crimp.
For terminating large cables, it becomes much much much more important to do things right, and as such, I recommend that anybody with little experience or desire to buy quality speciality tools to do the job, have their cables made for them professionally. It will cost less in the long run. Cheap tools yield inferior end results.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables
Watch some of this guys videos on examples of a pisspoor product than many use for their wiring jobs:
Keep in mind that while this guy is doing pull tests to see the strength of a crimp, these substandard tools will yield a much higher resistance electrical connection, and instead of solar wattage flowing from solar panel into battery, some wattage will go into heating these bad quality crimps and the wires surrounding them, all becuase one wanted to save a few bucks on a tool.
While an RV need not meet the exacting standards set by the ABYC, please read the following articles:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires
The cheap and easy to use hammer crimpers used on larger cable are not really adequate for a long lasting low resistance wire termination.
Please read the following article as to why i recommend you have your battery cables or inverter cables made by a professional
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables
Often, when one looks at their own wiring job a few months after completing it, they are lost as to what wire goes where or came from and what it does.
Please read the following article on labelling your wires. This will save many headaches down the road. you can just write on blue tape and cover the blue tape with clear scotch tape instead of going as nuts as this guy:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_labeling
In fact, if you peruse the following website where i pulled all these links from, where it concerns batteries and things dc electrical, your next thousand questions can be answered.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
Please also keep in mind the "just fine" phrase that is often used with regards to either battery or solar performance or the wiring between the two
"Just Fine" is synonymous with " I know it is not quite the proper way to do things, but it has not failed yet, and therefore, is 'just fine"
One should seek to divest themselves from 'just fine' or at least view anything or any claim with the words "just fine", with great suspicion.
