frosty door in cargo trailer

[jbart]

need ideas to stop frost around frame of my cargo trailer door. my trailer is well insulated but the frame of the side door is all aluminum and it gets really frosty in the cold and when the temp rises back up the floor gets wet. Possibly some kind of heat tape? I have plenty of solar. I am a fairly inventive guy but this one has me stumped.

 

[bullfrog]

Picture please, how is the frame attached and is it painted? How is it draining to the inside? Are there any drain holes in the bottom ledge? Is the trailer being heated when this happens?

 

[maki2]

Since you can't create a thermal break between the interior and exterior as you would in modern aluminum house windows you can apply some nice, smooth, closed cell, foam weatherproof insulation tape on the inside surface. That will cover the aluminum and prevent the moisture from condensing on the metal. The tape in the link sticks nicely but can be removed without leaving a residue. I ordered a roll of it last month and it is a very nice quality product and not too expensive.
LLPT Foam Insulation Tape 2 Inches x 50 Feet Multiple Sizes for Door Window Weather Strip Outdoor Indoor Residue Free Weatherproof Adhesive(EFT250)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYFZMX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't worry the leftover is very handy to have to create soft bumpers to keep cabinet doors from rattling and other small task where you might want to have a little bit of a cushion under something to help keep it from sliding around too much. Of course it is a weather strip so you might find other spots that could use it to stop a draft.

 

[Matlock]

Key words are "thermal break". Create one with a thick moving blanket covering the frame and door completely. Eliminate any exposed smooth surface that is cold to the touch. This is temporary but will allow you to feel and see the results. That condensation won't happen if you insulate/isolate that cold surface.

This may be obvious but I'll throw it out here anyway... Make sure you have "some" fresh air flowing through the interior, either vent or window. The purpose is to attempt to equalize the humidity between cold "dry" outside air and "warm humid" inside air. Slowly pushing warm humid air out while bringing cool dry air in is the ticket. Get a Acu-Rite temp/humidity gauge at walmart for $9 and stick it to an inside wall. Easy to get the hang of the amount of air exchange your inside space needs to stay dry using the gauge. (And still maintaining most of the heat inside).

just my 2¢

 

[jbart]

Since you can't create a thermal break between the interior and exterior as you would in modern aluminum house windows you can apply some nice, smooth, closed cell,  foam weatherproof insulation tape on the inside surface. That will cover the aluminum and prevent the moisture from condensing on the metal. The tape in the link sticks nicely but can be removed without leaving a residue. I ordered a roll of it last month and it is a very nice quality product and not too expensive.
LLPT Foam Insulation Tape 2 Inches x 50 Feet Multiple Sizes for Door Window Weather Strip Outdoor Indoor Residue Free Weatherproof Adhesive(EFT250)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYFZMX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't worry the leftover is very handy to have to create soft bumpers to keep cabinet doors from rattling and other small task where you might want to have a little bit of a cushion under something to help keep it from sliding around too much. Of course it is a weather strip so you might find other spots that could use it to stop a draft.

thank you very much i found some of the closed cell foam you had mentioned at Lowes and it is working wonderfully  you are awesome !!!  
i did find a website that offers and heat tape product for walkin coolers (they have the same problem) for $100 + hopefully i don't need that

 

[jbart]

Key words are "thermal break". Create one with a thick moving blanket covering the frame and door completely. Eliminate any exposed smooth surface that is cold to the touch. This is temporary but will allow you to feel and see the results. That condensation won't happen if you insulate/isolate that cold surface.

This may be obvious but I'll throw it out here anyway... Make sure you have "some" fresh air flowing through the interior, either vent or window. The purpose is to attempt to equalize the humidity between cold "dry" outside air and "warm humid" inside air. Slowly pushing warm humid air out while bringing cool dry air in is the ticket. Get a Acu-Rite temp/humidity gauge at walmart for $9 and stick it to an inside wall. Easy to get the hang of the amount of air exchange your inside space needs to stay dry using the gauge. (And still maintaining most of the heat inside).

just my 2¢

thank you for you answering my post. 40% rh inside 99% outside with the fan running directly on the  door the foam tape suggestion from another post works great. thanks again

 

[Forestwalker62]

I find this thread of extreme interest because my 1994 vehicle’s doors and trunk are completely freezing shut in the extreme winters my region has. (Tethered here due to the job). I have tried lubricating the gaskets and frames to NO success. Do you think the foam insulating tape suggested here would help?

I can’t tell you how scary it is as a single woman in her 60s getting out of work at night in a lonely dark area, and having no way to get inside her vehicle when it’s freezing outside. I have no one to help me. (Not sure even AAA would know what to do).

I have managed to use a pry bar a couple times but carrying a heavy large metal bar around just is not wanted, and it is damaging my car in the process. I have been told I could get an electric ignition started installed to heat up the car for half an hour...which that’s out everything, but that’s $300 - my car is valued at only $1000. Sorry, I don’t have money to buy another car, and it’s a good working vehicle otherwise.

 

[Bear_from_OBX]

I have managed to use a pry bar a couple times but carrying a heavy large metal bar around just is not wanted, and it is damaging my car in the process. I have been told I could get an electric ignition started installed to heat up the car for half an hour...which that’s out everything, but that’s $300 - my car is valued at only $1000. Sorry, I don’t have money to buy another car, and it’s a good working vehicle otherwise.

Forestwalker, what kinds of electric power do you have available? I am wondering about a carefully installed electric heater to warm the interior enough to thaw the seals of at least one door... Running off the start battery probably wouldn't be useful as the heater would kill the battery fairly quickly, but an accessory battery might be an option with a 12v defrost heater and some way to start it from outside the car. Silicone grease (auto parts stores or Walmart) rubbed on the seals is helpful to keep the water from building up on them and freezing the seal to the door as well.

 

[maki2]

I find this thread of extreme interest because my 1994 vehicle’s doors and trunk are completely freezing shut in the extreme winters my region has. (Tethered here due to the job).  I have tried lubricating the gaskets and frames to NO success. Do you think the foam insulating tape suggested here would help?

I can’t tell you how scary it is as a single woman in her 60s getting out of work at night in a lonely dark area, and having no way to get inside her vehicle when it’s freezing outside. I have no one to help me. (Not sure even AAA would know what to do).

I have managed to use a pry bar a couple times but carrying a heavy large metal bar around just is not wanted, and it is damaging my car in the process. I have been told I could get an electric ignition started installed to heat up the car for half an hour...which that’s out everything, but that’s $300 - my car is valued at only $1000. Sorry, I don’t have money to buy another car, and it’s a good working vehicle otherwise.

The issue here is that water is getting under those seals and hanging out between the seal and the metal of the car body and then freezing. Your seals are old, they have hardened and also likely shrunk a bit in size and of course cold weather also makes the seals less flexible even if they have not hardened over time.

You are unlikely to find exact fit, brand new, replacement door gaskets for your car but sometimes such miracles do happen as there are companies in places such as Vietnam who are producing replacement parts for older vehicles.  Look on Ebay for them, that is the most likely source for finding them.

You are much more likely to find some "universal" door gasket material by the foot. Focus on the driver's door first since that is typically the main entry point and you don't want to be locked of it.

Covered parking will also solve the issue but that is unlikely to happen everywhere you go. But if you have an option for a free covered parking space take it even if it means walking a few extra blocks.

Best of all...be a snow bird, then you won't have to worry about it so much but of course you will get more dust inside when there is a strong wind blowing.