fresh water setup questions

[DudeInAVan]

I'm starting to think about building a basic sink/fresh water setup, and wonder if anyone can recommend a good 12 volt water pump that's pretty quiet and doesn't use a ton of power. Also, is there any reason why a standard household sink and faucet couldn't be used in conjunction with such a fresh water tank/water pump setup? Or is there something about RV-specific faucets/sinks that is required?

 

[LFM]

http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/...pumps/shurflo-classic-pump/default.html&nbsp;<br>Or you can go this route&nbsp;http://www.whalepumps.com/rv/produc...ry_ID=10007&amp;FriendlyID=Manual-water-pumps<br>The manual foot pump is nice, because its hands free.

 

[ccbreder]

If using a powered water pump, it would be best to have a pressure switch to shut down when dead headed. Using household faucets would only be a problem if your system is low flow, but that would only be irritating when the water dribbles. A valve is a valve, they all turn OFF.

 

[LFM]

A lot&nbsp;of the Surflo pumps have a pressure switch that cuts off the pump. But having a switch at the sink is also a good idea, no&nbsp;sense in&nbsp;keeping&nbsp;pressure on the water line.

 

[Kevin H]

I have Surflo pumps and replaced all my "RV" faucets with Delta residential. &nbsp;No probs at all installing the faucets and they are MUCH nicer and cheaper than RV specific.<br><br>-- &nbsp;Kevin

 

[wrcsixeight]

I do not use my water pump for washing dishes. &nbsp;It is only to dispense filtered drinking water from a 7 gallon Reliance container, and the following pump does this nicely.<br><br>Push button on, push button off. &nbsp;Makes a buzzing sound, draws 2.3 amps, and fills a quart bottle in about 10 seconds at 12.8 battery voltage. You cannot control the speed &nbsp;of dispense without modification. Does not require installing an accumulator like other pumps.<br><br>I went through several hand pumps before going electric. &nbsp;They wore out too soon, but one could control the output flow. &nbsp;I'd never go back to a hand pump. &nbsp;A good one (Whale, Fynnspray)is more expensive than this electric one. &nbsp;A inexpensive &nbsp;Valterra hand pump will start leaking after pumping about 200 gallons.<br><br>&nbsp;http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/IT...n=google&amp;gclid=CNyM1djh8rQCFQmCQgodWjwA1g<br><br><br><br><br>

 

[coultergeist]

I've done this several different ways.<br><br>My first vehicle was pretty small.&nbsp; Didn't have room for a holding tank or anything like that, but really wanted running water.&nbsp; I used one of the blue 7-gallon water jugs from Wal-Mart.&nbsp; It has a cap with a removeable spigot in it.&nbsp; The threads are exactly the same size as those on an Attwood 500 aerator bilge pump.&nbsp; Unscrewed the spigot and screwed the pump into the cap and ran my water line from it to a sink sprayer.&nbsp; The power cord was bought at an agriculture supply store.&nbsp; Had a cigarette lighter plug on one end and a switch already wired in the middle of it.&nbsp; Just sat it on the counter and plugged it in and turned it on when I needed it.&nbsp; Could also use it outside of the vehicle or wherever I needed running water.&nbsp; Did great for warm showers too.&nbsp; <br><br>The vehicle I am building now is much bigger.&nbsp; It is more of a traditional rv type setup.&nbsp; I use a fresh water holding tank.&nbsp; I have a demand type pump attached to it.&nbsp; Mine was also bought at an agriculture supply store.&nbsp; Demand water pumps used for sprayers are essentially the same type of pump used in rv's.&nbsp; They have built in pressure switches, so they shut themselves off once you turn the faucet off and water can't flow.&nbsp; You still need to have a power switch though.&nbsp; If you ended up having a water leak while you weren't in the vehicle, it would pump out all of your water and make a big mess without the power switch.&nbsp; It has a sink from an old pop-up camper, but the faucet is a standard kitchen faucet with sprayer.&nbsp; It's not all completely installed yet, but I've tested it all and it works really well.

 

[MrNoodly]

Or a non-pump way would be to mount the water jug higher than the sink and just let gravity do the job. A spout on the jug and a bit of hose to direct the water to the sink. Of course, 5 or 7 gallons of water can get hefty (41 to 58 lbs), so it would need adequate support and be well restrained. And it adds to a van's top heaviness. But gravity feed is one less thing to burden your electrical supply and one less thing to break. Another view is that the easier it is to use water, the more we end up using, which means the more often we need to go get more water.

 

[DudeInAVan]

Thanks for all the great suggestions everyone.

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;Shure-flo all the way for me. 'Course, I picked up one of those 'instant on' propane water heaters and plan to have an outdoor shower setup, but it's sure nice to just turn on the tap 'n let 'er rip. Don't need or use an accumulator.&nbsp;

 

[Ballenxj]

Anybody just use those two &amp; a half gallon jugs of fresh drinking water? You know the ones with a spigot on the side. I was thinking of having a small counter top with a small sink built in. It could drain into another jug below, then you could dump it (water the plants) at your convenience. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[CrossCountryGal]

Bruce - My set up is even simpler - gallon jugs of water from WallyWorld and a rubbermaid dishpan&nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">&nbsp; One day I'll think about running water, but for now I'm KISS (keeping it simple silly)

 

[bk2valve]

<br><br>

<span id="post_message_1276529393">My first vehicle was pretty small.&nbsp; Didn't have room for a holding tank or anything like that, but really wanted running water.&nbsp; I used one of the blue 7-gallon water jugs from Wal-Mart.&nbsp; It has a cap with a removeable spigot in it.&nbsp; The threads are exactly the same size as those on an Attwood 500 aerator bilge pump.&nbsp; Unscrewed the spigot and screwed the pump into the cap and ran my water line from it to a si</span><span id="post_message_1276529393">nk sprayer. </span>

<br><br><br><br>Coultergeist, I would sure like to see photos of that....<br><br>Bri<br><br><br><br>

 

[Ballenxj]

Cherie, YUP, that's about as simple as it gets. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[papas34]

Cheri's idea sure is kiss!!!<br><br><br>Are you using candles for reading<img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[coultergeist]

<p>Hi Bk2valve.&nbsp; Don't know why I didn't think to post a picture of it.&nbsp; Looked and couldn't find any good ones, so I took a few more today while I was working&nbsp;on the big van.&nbsp; The first shows the whole thing.&nbsp; Gives you an overall idea of what it looks like.&nbsp; The second picture is a close-up of the pump and the fittings that connect the hand sprayer to it.&nbsp; <br><br>All the fittings came from Lowes.&nbsp; They are all standard sizes.&nbsp; Just play with it until you find the right ones to match up to the particular hose and sprayer you are going to use.&nbsp; I have a diverter on mine because I was thinking of running a built in line to the sink.&nbsp; I have a quick disconnect on one of the two outlets so I could disconnect it from that quickly and use it outside.&nbsp; It is not really needed.&nbsp; It could be attached directly to the pump fitting.&nbsp; <br><br>It works really well.&nbsp; Just screw off the cap to fill the water jug.&nbsp; The pump comes off with the cap.&nbsp; Screw it back on and plug it in when you are ready to use it.&nbsp; It works best if it is sitting on its side as if you were going to use it with the spigot that came with it.&nbsp; It has a vent cap to unscrew to let air in the jug while the pump is operating.&nbsp; <br><br>I used an attwood 500 aerator pump.&nbsp; You can use a higher capacity pump if you want to pump faster, but it needs to be an aerator type to have the threads in the right place to work with the cap.&nbsp; A standard attwood bilge pump doesn't have a threaded bottom.</p>

 

[bk2valve]

Thanks Patrick....excellent! Good setup. I appreciate the photos and good explanation...<br><br>It isn't something I need now but I like to see folks inventions...<br>Bri

 

[coultergeist]

You're welcome Bri.&nbsp; I like to check out other people's ideas too.&nbsp;

 

[akrvbob]

Coultergeist that looks really good and I am interested in duplicating that. This looks like the same pump as you have, right:<br><span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #0000ff;">http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Corpo...;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=attwood+500+aerator+pump</span><br><br>I'm unsure of how it works. The bottom of the pump threads directly into where the spigot was on the cap, right? And then a hose screws into the bottom of it go to the bottom of the tank to suck the water out? Or is the reason you leave it on its side because there is not a hose at the bottom?<br><br>Thanks for posting this, looks great!<br>Bob

 

[coultergeist]

Hi Bob.&nbsp; That looks like the same one I have.&nbsp; I got mine from Wal-Mart.&nbsp; It comes as a kit there.&nbsp; It has the pump plus a plastic hose and a few different fittings.&nbsp; Also comes with a screen you can thread onto the inlet.&nbsp; I think it was $32 if I remember correctly.&nbsp; You can get the same thing with an attwood 800 pump as well.&nbsp; It has a higher gallon per hour rating so it would have a little more pressure to it if you have long runs or bigger heights you want to lift through.&nbsp; I think it was $37 or pretty close to it.&nbsp; <br><br>You remove the spigot from the cap and thread the pump inlet into it.&nbsp; It will screw all the way down until the pump is flush with the top of the cap.&nbsp; You should have an inch or so of thread left to work with on the underside of the cap.&nbsp; In my case I attached the filter screen to that.&nbsp; I just lay the jug on what would be its left side in the picture.&nbsp; That way the pump inlet could draw water from the jug until it was just about empty.&nbsp; This also put the vent above the water line so the pump could operate most efficiently.&nbsp; <br><br>The kit that comes from Wal-Mart has a fitting to convert the threaded inlet for use with a hose.&nbsp; You could also get one from any Lowes or Home Depot, etc.&nbsp; There is enough thread to attach it and run a hose to the bottom of the jug as a pick-up if you'd prefer to keep the jug upright when you're using it.&nbsp; <br><br>I just sat mine on the countertop when I was going to use it, so I never ran a pick-up to the bottom of the jug, but I'm sure that would work just fine.&nbsp; <br><br>You can use silicone or any other good sealant to make sure there are no leaks where the pump threads into the cap.&nbsp; I haven't used any and mine hasn't leaked so far, but you could for a little extra insurance if you wanted to.&nbsp; The great thing about the attwood pumps is that you can replace just the pump without changing out the mounting base, so it wouldn't be a problem to seal it permanently.&nbsp; <br><br>My power cord is a part used for Fimco sprayers.&nbsp; You can pick it up in most agriculture supply stores.&nbsp; It has a cigarette lighter plug on one end, a power switch in the middle of the cord, and a two prong plug on the other end you can attach to the pump leads.&nbsp; It was $12 if I remember right.&nbsp; It was already wired and the switch was super convenient so that's what I used, but you could wire it up any way that would work best for your situation.<br><br>Hope this all helps.&nbsp; If you have any other questions, I'll be glad to help in any way I can.<br><br>