FedEx Step Van Conversion

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Feb 17, 2016
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Two years ago we said our prayers, left our jobs and sailed from Maine down to the Bahamas, looking for adventure and fun. Unexpectedly, we fell in love with the smaller living space and simpler lifestyle that go along with sailing on a very tight budget. 

Eventually we figured out how to bring the sailors lifestyle to the land and with the support of family and friends, built a Landyacht. Which is basically an old Fed-Ex truck, we converted to run off waste cooking oil and designed to comfortably house four adults and a dog while living off the grid. The Landyacht uses solar electricity, solar heated water, outdoor shower, 12 volt refrigerator, propane stove/oven and an infallible composting toilet, all of which we were lucky enough to learn about and build(except for the solar PV panels). Since we love plants and gardening we also built a towable greenhouse.

12729372_218584515155019_1200402652609467973_n.jpg



We started with a 1997 Freightliner MT45 with about 300,000 miles and a cost of $4,600. 

Key FedEx truck features:
-Cummins 5.9l 12 valve diesel engine(loves used veg oil and easy to work on)
-All aluminum body(doesn't rust, light weight, high scrap value)
-15,000lbs Weight Capacity(fully converted she weights 12,800lbs)
-Large cargo area(14ft long, 7ft wide, 6.5ft tall)

Key Landyacht features (post conversion):
-Runs on WVO(waste vegetable oil collected from restaraunts)
-Solar Electricity(180 watts)
-Solar Heated Water
-Outdoor shower
-Composting Toilet
-Full kitchen
-Dinette
-Sleeps Five 

7942354.jpg


First, the van was gutted. The back roll-up door, cargo shelving, damaged back 3ft of floor and cab/cargo dividing door and wall were removed and sold to a scrap metal facility for about $400. 

942864_218584361821701_4594953808148552452_n.jpg


Next, the interier bare aluminum was pressure washed, scrubbed, and polished clean. Two used truck cap windows from craigslist were then installed and the back three ft of damaged floor was replaced with fiberglassed plywood and pressure treated decking boards. The floor, ceiling, and walls were insulated with reclaimed and factory 2nds, 1.5in thick polyisocinate foamboard. A plastic vapor barrier was installed over the insulation and covered with 1/8in plywood on the floors and walls. Unconventional framing techniques were developed and used to construct the seating areas, walls, storage, and beds in order to maximize space and minimize ease of construction(HA!). The tarp covering the open back was eventually replaced with a back door(made from some of the original aluminum which was removed from the van), a wooden hatch which accesses a large storage area, and a large window made from donated clear acrylic. 

With the van sealed against the elements we noticed how stuffy it got inside and added three rooftop vents, one of which is a reclaimed boat hatch. Next we installed oak hardwood flooring(donated by a friend who had extra) in the standing and walking zones of the main living area, and plywood flooring in the sitting and storage zones. The bathroom/bedroom/back entry flooring was done using ripped up paper bags, elmers glue, and polyeurethane. Who knew! 

The benches, storage lockers, cabinets, kitchen table, kitchen counter, and shelves were built using primarily scavenged wood from the dump. The 4 burner stove top and oven(used from craigslist) was hooked up to a propane tank mounted to the back of the van using an old milk crate. The sink is fitted with two faucets, one for hot water and one for drinking water. The hot water faucet is run by a 12v self priming pump fed by the 24 gal hot water tank. The water is heated by the solar water heater mounted to the side of the van. The tank was made from 1/2in plywood and fiberglass and built into one of the dinnete benches. The drinking facet has a handle which is manually pumped drawing water from one of two 6 gallon jugs stored below the sink. The sink drains into a waste water tank mounted below the rear of the van.

8856641_orig.jpg


The cushions for the beds and benches were made from cut-up, used foam mattress toppers and custom made covers. The fold-away cot style beds were made using 2 peices of 1/2in thick iron pipe which run the length of the bed, and heavy duty fabric which was sewn and grommeted between the two pipes. Comfy. 

The ventilation fans are used 12v computer fans from ebay. A total of 8 seperate 12v LED lights were installed in the ceiling. Toggle switches were placed strategically throughout the van which control the fans, lights, fridge, and water pumps. A few 12v outlets were also installed throughout the van for charging and using personal electronics. The majority of the wiring is contained behind the removable cork ceiling panels and as it turns out, was fairly simple. Not that we haven't had our fair share of electrical fires and issues along the way.. Mounting the six Deep Cycle batteries(again used from craigslist) under the van was a bit difficult as was mounting the rooftop solar panels.

The fridge uses peltier plates which pump heat from the fridge to the exterior. They run on 12 volts and were bought from ebay for $5. Cheap! These are used in wine fridges and camping coolers/ fridges.

They say the key to composting toilets is creating an environment conducive to composting. This means separating liquids from solids, having plenty of airflow, and maintaining the proper carbon to nitrogen ratio. We came up with a can in a can system which utilizes a movable funnel to direct pee directly into our waste water tank mounted below the vessel. There is also an exhaust vent which, helped by two old computer fans, draws fresh air into the toilet and pulls toilet air to the outside. Instead of flushing with water we simply flush with carbon by scooping some sawdust into the poo bucket after we've deposited our nitrogen rich excrement. 


1664061_orig.jpg


2648729_orig.jpg

(lots more photo's and info at livingeartheasy.org.)

After a year of research, planning, hard work, and trial 'n error, we managed to build a mobile four person home, with very minimal construction or mechanical experience for less than $10,000. Woohoo!  

Now, on the road, we seek out farmers' markets, universities, and environmentally focused organizations. Here, we demonstrate how the sustainable mechanisms of the van work and exchange gain incredible insight into many interesting issues and extremely valued mentorship. We look forward to working with other organizations we meet along the way and offer the Landyacht and ourselves to help further their goals. 

Our experiences are documented and shared at livingeartheasy.org. We see this as a kind of science experiment and earnestly hope it will help others as much as ourselves, live a more earth friendly and happier life. 

Cheers!      

Reilly
and 
The Living Earth Easy Tribe
 
Great job, thanks for posting! I'll be sure to check out your blog when I get home :)
 
How did you find a used FedEx van for under $5k? (that's not accusatory; I really want to understand the process)
 
welcome, nice looking rig. so that peltier cooler works for you? you must be in a pretty cool climate. highdesertranger
 
hows that thin see through roof working out?
 
I'd like to know more about the paper bag floor !
 
ascii_man said:
How did you find a used FedEx van for under $5k? (that's not accusatory; I really want to understand the process)

Did a country wide craigslist and ebay search for a couple months. Wound up finding this one a couple towns over from me. It was listed for $7,200. I offered $4000 in cash, and we settled on $4,600. Cash is king! It also had a damaged rear/ bumper.
 
highdesertranger said:
welcome,  nice looking rig.  so that peltier cooler works for you?  you must be in a pretty cool climate.  highdesertranger

Thanks! We cool the hot side with water, which is cooled through copper piping, heatsinks, and fans and with another peltier plate. Still tinkering with it as it's not as cold as I would like/expect.
 
Gary68 said:
hows that thin see through roof working out?

its great! it's actually about 1/8 in thick fiberglass which we added 1.5 in thick foam board insulation and cork to the interior side of. Waterproof, insulating, great acoustics, and pretty.

12540675_202832350063569_7782479900296715721_n.jpg
 
I found that they work ok if the ambient temp was below 60f. but they are power hogs. they didn't work for me. highdesertranger
 
rvpopeye said:
I'd like to know more about the paper bag floor !

Here's a better pic showing the floor. It was actually pretty easy. Started with the 1/2in plywood floor, which was actually about 5 diff scrap pieces puzzled together, and laid ripped up paper bags on top. First, rip up the bags. You could also use scissors but I liked the more organic look of doing it by hand. Then I picked the coolest looking pieces, painted on regular white elmers glue with a foam brush and stuck them (glue side down) to the plywood floor surface. Do each piece one at a time, after you stick it down start in the center of the piece and smooth it out with your hand or a putty knife so it lies nice n' flat. It was fun playing with different shades of bag and diff sized pieces. Also don't be afraid to layer pieces on top of each other, this gave the floor some nice texture. Make sure you coat the entire underside of each piece with glue but not too much that it bleeds through the paper. Once your satisfied with your design let it dry thoroughly, at least a day, before coating with polyurethane. Do at least 3 coats, or just follow the directions on the can. Think I wound up doing six coats as I tend to over-do-it. There's also lots of other(better) instructions online, just search DIY paper bag flooring. I think it looks awesome, a nice earthy look and feels great on bare feet. Also hides all the seams between the different pieces of salvaged plywood.

9083403.jpg
 
I was thinking paper elmers and urethane would take a lot to get enough strength but over 1/2" ply makes way more sense!

Good way to use up scraps of ply.
 
highdesertranger said:
I found that they work ok if the ambient temp was below 60f.  but they are power hogs.  they didn't work for me.  highdesertranger

ya they definitely are the biggest power draw on board. would love a propane powered one but they're pricey.
 
12v true refer is the way to go. believe me I tried everything. ice chest, peltier units, propane, dorm refers. for my situation nothing beats a 12v compressor refer. highdesertranger
 
I'll 2nd and even 3rd the true 12v compressor fridge suggestion. Tried the others and, compared to a compressor fridge, they blew chunks. At the moment I'm running 2 (an Engel MR040 as a freezer and a Waeco CF-025DC as a fridge), both off 120W of solar feeding a 100AH AGM. It's probably a bit of overkill with the solar, but I have it running through a dual battery charge controller which can switch over and charge my other battery bank when the fridge battery is fully charged. Could've used a smaller AGM too, but had this one kickin' around and it gives me more reserve capacity. ..Willy.
 
another point, I wasted a lot of money because I didn't want to pay the price of a 12v compressor refer. with all the money I wasted I would have been dollars ahead if I would have bought the 12v compressor refer right off the bat. I am offering this advice for everybody on the fence. if you boondock nothing can replace or come close to a 12v compressor refer. highdesertranger
 
x4 on the 12v compressor fridge.

NovaKool, Vitrifrigo, Norcold, isotherm, Whytner, Edgestar, truckfridge, Dometic, Waeco and ARB are the usual suspects



I much prefer the Danfoss/Secop compressor compared to the SawaFuji due to less noise and more efficiency. I've had both. My norcold was loud and could vibrate like a sex toy.

Make sure the condenser can breathe well and does not recycle air it itself has heated. This is Key to efficiency, Secondary is extra insulation around fridge box.

Chop off the Ciggy plug, and use Anderson powerpoles if a connector is still needed, and use 10AWG.

propane fridges can have issues in hot weather, take forever to cool warm items placed within, and are cumulatively damaged by running off level over time, and propane runs out, AND their circuit boards still consume 12v electricity. I've seen figures where thetheir circuit boards draw more in 24 hours than my compressor fridge, and they still need a fossil fuel to cool.

Adequate Solar+12v compressor fridge, means not having to worry about spoiled food, stinky cooler water, or having to pack up camp just to go get ice so your food does not spoil.

My 12v fridges have paid for themselves in just the Ice I would have had to buy, a few times over now, even including the norcold's failure at 5 years.
 
Plus, with a compressor cooler, you can sell ice to those with iceboxes. Momomomunny! ..Willy.
 
Top