A lot depends on how cold you want it to be. 400WHr sounds somewhat high to me. I keep mine a few degrees below freezing and, in the summer, I doubt that it goes above a 30% duty cycle. Rest of the time it's more like 10%. ..Willy.
energy efficient refrigerator
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I have had a Dometic 25 quart for 5 years and a Whytner 65 quart for 18 months. The Whytner is a far better unit, but I haven't had it long enough to prove it's long term reliabiity. So far, in every way the Whytner is superior.
It's in the low 90s here and the Whytner runs about 6 hours a day at 55 watts per hour. I know that for a fact because I plug-and-unplug it so I know exactly how much it runs. 200 watts of solar is plenty, I never get close to running low.
bob
It's in the low 90s here and the Whytner runs about 6 hours a day at 55 watts per hour. I know that for a fact because I plug-and-unplug it so I know exactly how much it runs. 200 watts of solar is plenty, I never get close to running low.
bob
SternWake
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I use a Vitrifrigo c51is front loading fridge rather than a chest style 12v compressor fridge.
Much better than my Norcold which failed after 5 years. It is quieter and more efficient. Extra insulation and excellent condenser/compressor ventilation keep it very efficient.
When shopping for solar, for a fridge, one shouldn't seek to get the minimum which will power the fridge, but the maximum they can fit on their roof and afford as the power will not goto waste in this lifestyle. Batteries fully charged by 11AM are happy batteries indeed.
60 watts has been a general rule for the minimum amount of solar panel one can get away with, in a sunny environment, with a 12v chest style compressor fridge that is not opened 5 times an hour.
Lots of influencing factors on how much the fridge consumes. Nothing written in stone.
The Danfodd BD35f compressor is variable speed, from 2000 to 3500 rpm. The amp draw varies from ~2.2 amps to over 7 amps at 3500 rpm.
Some chest style fridges vary the compressor rpm. Most are set. I removed the resistor in the thermostat circuit to run mine at the slowest 2000 rpm down rom 2500.
An outfit called TruckFridge has 12v compressor fridges which are among the least expensive.
They however are no longer proudly claiming to have Danfoss/Secop compressors, which is a shame.
Norcold, Novakool, Doemtic/Waeco., Whytner, Isotherm and a few others make 12v compressor fridges. I heard Norcold dropped the Sawafuji compressor in favor of the Danfoss/Secop, but there are a whole bunch of newer 12v compressors infiltrating the market. I think Danfoss's patent ran out or something.
Anyway, i've not researched all the current offerings. My words could be dated as to the compressor fridge offerings.
Much better than my Norcold which failed after 5 years. It is quieter and more efficient. Extra insulation and excellent condenser/compressor ventilation keep it very efficient.
When shopping for solar, for a fridge, one shouldn't seek to get the minimum which will power the fridge, but the maximum they can fit on their roof and afford as the power will not goto waste in this lifestyle. Batteries fully charged by 11AM are happy batteries indeed.
60 watts has been a general rule for the minimum amount of solar panel one can get away with, in a sunny environment, with a 12v chest style compressor fridge that is not opened 5 times an hour.
Lots of influencing factors on how much the fridge consumes. Nothing written in stone.
The Danfodd BD35f compressor is variable speed, from 2000 to 3500 rpm. The amp draw varies from ~2.2 amps to over 7 amps at 3500 rpm.
Some chest style fridges vary the compressor rpm. Most are set. I removed the resistor in the thermostat circuit to run mine at the slowest 2000 rpm down rom 2500.
An outfit called TruckFridge has 12v compressor fridges which are among the least expensive.
They however are no longer proudly claiming to have Danfoss/Secop compressors, which is a shame.
Norcold, Novakool, Doemtic/Waeco., Whytner, Isotherm and a few others make 12v compressor fridges. I heard Norcold dropped the Sawafuji compressor in favor of the Danfoss/Secop, but there are a whole bunch of newer 12v compressors infiltrating the market. I think Danfoss's patent ran out or something.
Anyway, i've not researched all the current offerings. My words could be dated as to the compressor fridge offerings.
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ARB is a new entry to the market. They are placing themselves as a premium, very expensive very high quality model like an Engle. They really haven't been around long enough to know if that's true, unlike Engle which has extremely well proven it's highest quality, highest price claim.
To me the ARB looks like a re-branded Dometic, but I can't believe that's true.
Bob
To me the ARB looks like a re-branded Dometic, but I can't believe that's true.
Bob
steveh2112
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if i might summarize what i think are the options available from low to high
1) do nothing: adopt a lifestyle that reduces the need for keeping food cold. buy and use perishables daily, use UHT milk and live with semi warm beer. this could work better if camping in the mountains where its in the 40-50's in the night.
2) ice chest: cheap, if not on the road much or limited need for cold stuff, but if using a lot, need to be able to buy ice regularly which will likely become a pain and quite expensive after a while.
3) thermoelectric cooling type cooler (fridge). Koolatron units sell for about $120 so not much more than an ice chest. It seems they are inefficient in power use and can only drop the temperature a few degrees below ambient, and you have to put stuff in there cold in the first place, but if you can live with those restrictions, this is cheap way to keep stuff cold without the hassle of picking up ice all the time. this one
http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-Voy...id=1425892112&sr=8-11&keywords=camping+fridge
uses 4.5A at 12V so even for a modest amount of cooling, you would need a decent size solar system which may end up costing more than the option below. better for truckers who have the engine running most of the day in an air conditioned cab than for off-gridders with limited access to electric.
4) 12v compressor fridge like the ones listed above: $400 to well over a $1000 so not cheap but same convenience as a home fridge/freezer and highly efficient so can run on small solar system.
5) other ideas: domestic freezer like these
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whynter-C...-Upright-Freezer-with-Lock-2.1-cu-ft/35855477
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Danby-DCF...-Basker-Up-Front-Temperature-Control/40764679
then run from generator for a couple of hours a day as necessary. advantage, cheap, disadvantage, quite large and maybe not survive well on the road.
in my case, i'd probably start out with options 1 and 2 since i doubt i'll be more than 1/2 hr away from a supermarket every place i plan to camp
1) do nothing: adopt a lifestyle that reduces the need for keeping food cold. buy and use perishables daily, use UHT milk and live with semi warm beer. this could work better if camping in the mountains where its in the 40-50's in the night.
2) ice chest: cheap, if not on the road much or limited need for cold stuff, but if using a lot, need to be able to buy ice regularly which will likely become a pain and quite expensive after a while.
3) thermoelectric cooling type cooler (fridge). Koolatron units sell for about $120 so not much more than an ice chest. It seems they are inefficient in power use and can only drop the temperature a few degrees below ambient, and you have to put stuff in there cold in the first place, but if you can live with those restrictions, this is cheap way to keep stuff cold without the hassle of picking up ice all the time. this one
http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-Voy...id=1425892112&sr=8-11&keywords=camping+fridge
uses 4.5A at 12V so even for a modest amount of cooling, you would need a decent size solar system which may end up costing more than the option below. better for truckers who have the engine running most of the day in an air conditioned cab than for off-gridders with limited access to electric.
4) 12v compressor fridge like the ones listed above: $400 to well over a $1000 so not cheap but same convenience as a home fridge/freezer and highly efficient so can run on small solar system.
5) other ideas: domestic freezer like these
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whynter-C...-Upright-Freezer-with-Lock-2.1-cu-ft/35855477
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Danby-DCF...-Basker-Up-Front-Temperature-Control/40764679
then run from generator for a couple of hours a day as necessary. advantage, cheap, disadvantage, quite large and maybe not survive well on the road.
in my case, i'd probably start out with options 1 and 2 since i doubt i'll be more than 1/2 hr away from a supermarket every place i plan to camp
minimotos95
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akrvbob said:
I believe the older ARBs from before they were commonly available here in the states were Engle coolers rebranded. I can't speak on the newer style other than they do feel pretty solid, like they should at the price.
mockturtle
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I run my 4.3 cu ft. Nova Kool compressor fridge entirely from my solar panels. I have 200W of solar and a good controller. Of course, I try to be where the sun is. 
LeeRevell
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I have been price checking the WHYNTER fridges, for when I finally go on the road in a big way. Pricy, but the reviews are good.
At the moment I am using a 12VDC/120VAC cooler, which only cools 40 degrees below ambient. Works for shorter road trips. Best in the fall/winter, not so good in summer. I really need something better.
At the moment I am using a 12VDC/120VAC cooler, which only cools 40 degrees below ambient. Works for shorter road trips. Best in the fall/winter, not so good in summer. I really need something better.
steveh2112 said:
After having tried them all, I have concluded that I prefer your option #2. I use the large blocks of ice which will last for a week in one of the extreme coolers.
That comes out to $1 - $2 per week for something totally reliable and breakdown free. It also provides ice cold water when you want it.
I have never had a powered fridge in a vehicle that lasted 10 years, 4-6 years seems more common. At the prices they charge for them, buying ice may be cheaper, and I go grocery shopping once a week anyway.
highdesertranger
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off grid you must be pretty close to town. where do you get block ice for 1-2 bucks? never ever drink the water from your ice chest, ask me how I know. the only way I have ever got a week out of ice is when I seal up the ice chest and buried it. highdesertranger
highdesertranger said:
Yes, there is no way ice could beat a small 12V refrig and solar panel. After 2 or 3 days our ice has turned to water and well before that anything you wanted really frozen (like ice cream) is half melted.
jimindenver
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I agree. We used coolers and a ice box for decades, there is nothing like the convenience of a working fridge.
ok i just read through the whole thread and still unsure which way to go
it will just be my self in my camper i dont really drink much beer but a cold soft drink would still be nice
my off grid property is approx 42 miles to nearest large town
I like the ARB and wytner units but concerned on price and reliability
but also prepared to run a 110v unit with its own panel and battery with the 600 watt inverter i already have
any other help would be appreciated
Thanks
it will just be my self in my camper i dont really drink much beer but a cold soft drink would still be nice
my off grid property is approx 42 miles to nearest large town
I like the ARB and wytner units but concerned on price and reliability
but also prepared to run a 110v unit with its own panel and battery with the 600 watt inverter i already have
any other help would be appreciated
Thanks
jimindenver
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compressors can put a load on an inverter much higher than their rating to get started. I'd check before depending on a 600w inverter to run a fridge.
highdesertranger
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x2 on what jim said. also when I ran a dorm refrigerator off my 1200 watt inverter, it drew much more power than was stated on the energy label. highdesertranger
I am loving my 50qt ARB. Only time will tell if holds up and ARB is overpriced for sure but I like its features. Still learning how to keep food like dairy and other items placed in the best locations. Today a couple Corona beers that had fallen over on the bottom and ignored too long had partialy frozen with big chunks of ice. They were still great!
The pleasure of driving to get ice and draining the old cooler is not missed.
When it cycles I think it pulls around 2.5-3amps but even when van is at 90 degrees it does not cycle often.
My power needs are fairly low. Mostly the fridge, fans, charging laptop through an inverter because I don't have a DC charge source yet. Lighting is usually with my LED lanterns or 1 or more of my LED flashlights but I will take the light fixtures I am carrying around in a box and install them some day and that will add a slight power usage more.
I only have 136 amp hour of battery so far with a 285 watt panel but even on total overcast days my KID controller says I am 100% charge by end of day.
Would love to have the Renogy 100 watt suitcase so on sunny days I could park in the shade when possible and deploy the suitcase.
Think any 12v fridge is worth the cost to make life easier unless your time is spent close to town.
A SEEKER
The pleasure of driving to get ice and draining the old cooler is not missed.
When it cycles I think it pulls around 2.5-3amps but even when van is at 90 degrees it does not cycle often.
My power needs are fairly low. Mostly the fridge, fans, charging laptop through an inverter because I don't have a DC charge source yet. Lighting is usually with my LED lanterns or 1 or more of my LED flashlights but I will take the light fixtures I am carrying around in a box and install them some day and that will add a slight power usage more.
I only have 136 amp hour of battery so far with a 285 watt panel but even on total overcast days my KID controller says I am 100% charge by end of day.
Would love to have the Renogy 100 watt suitcase so on sunny days I could park in the shade when possible and deploy the suitcase.
Think any 12v fridge is worth the cost to make life easier unless your time is spent close to town.
A SEEKER
highdesertranger
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I have heard good remarks about whynter's. I think a couple people here have them. highdesertranger
Oberneldon
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I have had my Engel for two years and it runs continuous for 3.5 months each year when I'm on the road. At home I leave it in my truck and run it when going on trips. I have had a number of -40 deg below ambient and use way more power than the true compressor Engel and do a poor job of keeping food as when the vehicle gets hot inside say 110 deg the -40 deg is 70 deg inside. I always worried about my food and through a lot a way. The question on how much a compressor Engel draws depends on a lot of factors.
At Laughlin, NV the other day I ran mine on my small house battery setup totaling 14 ah hell cells. The batteries were fully charged sitting at 13.0 volts at 8 pm and ran the Engel for 12 hours and when I removed the load at 8 am my batteries were sitting at 11.8 volts. It was a hot evening/mild night. That was about the extent of what I can do when it's hot out at night.
Last night I was at Bryce Canyon and the low was 19 deg so inside the car was still above freezing a bit. I ran the engel on the house battery for 12 hours and the house batteries were 12.4 this am.
The Engel literature has reference to 2 ah and seems about right for warm but not hot ambient temperatures. Colder less / hotter more.
I have no problem running the Engel off the vehicle battery during the day as I drive do much. I don't have the ability to charge a house battery off the vehicle so using gel cells was my option for space. I charge the gel cells from a multi chemistry charger off a 400 watt pure sine wave inverter on the vehicle battery.
I paid $800 for the Engel and my wife thought I was crazy but after 2 years and the money we wasted on the thermal coolers she appreciates the Engel's temperature control. She uses it around the house on 120 volts when she has gatherings.
Brent
At Laughlin, NV the other day I ran mine on my small house battery setup totaling 14 ah hell cells. The batteries were fully charged sitting at 13.0 volts at 8 pm and ran the Engel for 12 hours and when I removed the load at 8 am my batteries were sitting at 11.8 volts. It was a hot evening/mild night. That was about the extent of what I can do when it's hot out at night.
Last night I was at Bryce Canyon and the low was 19 deg so inside the car was still above freezing a bit. I ran the engel on the house battery for 12 hours and the house batteries were 12.4 this am.
The Engel literature has reference to 2 ah and seems about right for warm but not hot ambient temperatures. Colder less / hotter more.
I have no problem running the Engel off the vehicle battery during the day as I drive do much. I don't have the ability to charge a house battery off the vehicle so using gel cells was my option for space. I charge the gel cells from a multi chemistry charger off a 400 watt pure sine wave inverter on the vehicle battery.
I paid $800 for the Engel and my wife thought I was crazy but after 2 years and the money we wasted on the thermal coolers she appreciates the Engel's temperature control. She uses it around the house on 120 volts when she has gatherings.
Brent
