energy efficient refrigerator

[jimindenver]

So the TC does have a gas fridge. I think you would be surprised just how little propane they actually use. Far less than the stove, water heater and furnace that you have to use the propane for anyways. Plus it should run off of electric when you have it.

 

[akrvbob]

I think you are overestimating the amount of propane it will use and what a hassle it is. Carry an extra 20 pound bottle or two and swap them in as needed. If it has a good working propane fridge in it I'd use it until you can afford something else.

Waeco is gone now, Dometic bought them out and rebranded their fridges with the Dometic name. They sell them under the CF model line.

Bob

 

[K1ngN0thing]

I've heard that you shouldn't have your propane fridge running while driving, is this true?

 

[K1ngN0thing]

So I guess it's just to prevent a fire starting while on the road. Makes sense. How do these fires start? Should I be worried with a 17 year old fridge? The metal piping/tank has some deformation (those bumps, whatever they're called).

 

[SoulRaven]

No, you shouldn't run anything propane while moving. Propane fridges need to be level to work properly.

 

[SternWake]

Driving with an absorption fridge on, is illegal.


When refilling with petrol at a gas station  the open flame of the fridge could meet some stray gas fumes and go Kaboom.
Also, it is illegal in tunnels to have the fridge running.  This does not stop people from doing it.

With the mindset of most people these days, and their apparent immunity to laws and rules and commn sense, If i see an RV filling their gas tank, I'll find another gas station, even though the risk is tiny.

Absorption fridges do need to be level  within a few degrees front and back and side to side.  But the actual specifics vary with fridge model, and newer absorption fridges are a bit more tolerant of off level running.  The movement of the vehicle if running the fridge when driving  will prevent the damaging effects of parking unlevel for an extended periods.  The damage to an absorption fridge is cumuulative when run off level.  It won't fail the first time, but if unlevel operation happens often, then it will fail sooner.

Another reason to not run an absorption fridge while driving down the road is the slipstream can easily blow out the flame, and this only becomes obvious if it is a known issue and checked when stopped, or one notices the fridge is warming up.

Absorption fridges need dedicated ventilation. Fresh air in from the bottom, byproducts of combustion out an upper vent with no path for by products of combustion able to enter the vehicle's living compartment.

If you have an functional absorption fridge, then freaking use it.  You have so little concept of what a battery can actually power, and for how long, yet you are wanting to add even more load to the battery, when you do not need to.

A 5 gallon tank of propane has more energy inside of it than thousands of pounds of  fully charged lead acid batteries

 

[K1ngN0thing]

Yeah I had no idea how little propane they used. Checked mine today and I think it was 800 btu/hr, and I've got two pretty good sized tanks. Now I can focus on using that battery power for the microwave and a TV.

 

[jimindenver]

Also remember that it is a insulated box. Too help ours get cooled down fast and for travel we use ice jugs. Everything stays cold and we have a nice cool drink any time we want.

Being a truck camper, I bet it is a 3 way fridge. The only time you will want to run it off the battery is when you are underway and the truck is powering it. The takes the running the propane while on the road off the table. So you can plug into 120v before you leave to get it cooled down. Use 12v while on the road and gas once you are parked.

Gas fridges are slower than their compressor counterparts. Some are faster but most need as much as 24 hours to get cooled down. First the freezer gets cold and then the fridge. The 120v part is a bit slower but will do the job. I would plug it in first to check the 120v side and while it's cooling look at the back side of the gas. Open the plate and check for nest, leaves, whatever may block the flue. Also check for cobwebs and such around the burner. After a while you will feel the freezer cooling so you know the 120v side works, so it is time to check the gas operation. Make sure the gas is on and light the stove top burners first. This will help purge any air in the line and you will notice the difference in the flames once the air is gone. It still may take a few attempts to light the fridge as there may be some air left in its line, electronic ignition will make clicking noises until it lights, with a pilot you will be there to know. Once lit let the fridge cool for quite a while before checking it as constantly opening the door just slows the process.

Last thing is you said you checked and yours produces 800 BTUs but that is not constant. Once the fridge gets to temp it will shut down like most others.

 

[SternWake]

All fridges can benefit from added insulation, but if it is already in a cabinet designed around it, doing so requires cabinet modifications.


The business end of the cooling unit, and its ventilation is very important.

There should not be a huge dead space behind the condenser coils, but about 3/4 to 1 inch of space.  With less space the geat released will cause convection currents to draw coolerer air upward over the coils, with too much space the space just keeps getting hotter and the refrigerant is less able to transfer heat.

In Summertime some have found that adding computer fans to help the airflow back here can help, but other found that making the baffling correctly so convection currents work as designed, is just as good with no additional electrical draw.

Just do not believe the manufacturer was concerned with airflow considerations at the back for maximum efficiency.  They know it is all about how it looks from the front, for their bottom line, and that is all they care about.

Improper or poor refrigeration installments are likely causes of their premature demise.  Let them breathe.  Constrict the breathing, then wait for failure.

High CFM fans are not needed to help airflow behind an absorption fridge in hot ambient temps.  Just a slow low draw 120MM fan can greatly increase the ability of the fridge to keep up when it is hot outside.  You can wire a fan to a Snap switch, which will turn the fan on at a certain temperature and off at another.

Here is just one.  The opening and closing temps are variables;
http://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Sw...F8&qid=1426356129&sr=8-2&keywords=snap+switch

 

[jimindenver]

That's a great idea about pre cooling in the store.

 

[akrvbob]

Wow, that is some really great information!! Thank you all!!!
Bob

 

[highdesertranger]

by all means if you have a propane refer use it. however I don't believe in all the "best ever" statements. I tried to use one in temps in the mid 90's, it would go through a bbq cylinder in about a week and a half. but then we had to refill with propane. we where on a claim that took 3 hours of rock strewn rutted kidney jarring road to get to the closest store, but guess what they didn't sell propane took another hour drive down the highway to get propane. so where talking blowing a whole day a tank of gas and wear and tear on my truck. this was not working out. then I went with the 12v compressor refers and I have been a happy camper ever since. after the initial investment refrigeration was basically free and hassle free. so I say use the propane refer for now when it needs replacing go with a 12v. highdesertranger

 

[K1ngN0thing]

That's the plan. Thanks for all the help.

 

[TucsonAZ]

I use a 5cuft chest freezer I modified with a $15 temp controller, it kicks on at 28 degrees and off at 22 degrees. This uses a total of 10 watts an hour to run provided I'm not trying to freeze gallon jugs of water twice a day or something crazy. I also started off with 40 pounds of ice at the bottom of it in the event it ever went out I would have some time before having to act.

I don't see propane as "off grid" which is my goal, if I can't carry enough propane with me to cover my needs for 2 months I don't see it as a viable option for my needs.

 

[SternWake]

I did the super insulated cooler and Block Ice thing for 6 years+
A compressor fridge and enough solar to power it is the best thing I have added to my Van.  The fridge paid for itself in a years worth of ice and the gas to go get it.  The Solar took a bit longer, but it opened up so many other doors.  I can't imagine my van sitting in the sun, and the batteries not being charged by the sun.


I never even think about not opening the door and having sub 35 internals, its just there.  The biggest issue for boondocking comfortably in the middle of nowhere, was eliminated.

I don't even know where I'd store a 5 gallon tank of propane.  Having to go refill it, Intolerable!  Just like the Block ice became.

 

[steveh2112]

I did the super insulated cooler and Block Ice thing for 6 years+
A compressor fridge and enough solar to power it is the best thing I have added to my Van.  The fridge paid for itself in a years worth of ice and the gas to go get it.  The Solar took a bit longer, but it opened up so many other doors.  I can't imagine my van sitting in the sun, and the batteries not being charged by the sun.

by compressor fridge do you mean a standard house hold 110VAC fridge? i see most of the 12v fridges on amazon are thermoelectric cooler type which it looks like are pretty inefficient.

did you find a 12vdc compressor fridge?

 

[steveh2112]

I did the super insulated cooler and Block Ice thing for 6 years+
A compressor fridge and enough solar to power it is the best thing I have added to my Van.  The fridge paid for itself in a years worth of ice and the gas to go get it.  The Solar took a bit longer, but it opened up so many other doors.  I can't imagine my van sitting in the sun, and the batteries not being charged by the sun.

by compressor fridge do you mean a standard house hold 110VAC fridge? i see most of the 12v fridges on amazon are thermoelectric cooler type which it looks like are pretty inefficient.

did you find a 12vdc compressor fridge?

 

[steveh2112]

you don't get much time to edit posts on this board.

i guess you have something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-45...TF8&qid=1426412979&sr=1-6&keywords=fridge+12v

i wonder what solar system you would need for that?

 

[steveh2112]

i should research before posting, i know, sorry. the reviews on that one look awful so i guess the sensible thing to do is bite the bullet and get the real thing
http://www.amazon.com/Engel-MR040-M...6414317&sr=1-3&keywords=compressor+fridge+12v
looks like it should run on a 60w solar panel?

 

[IGBT]

i should research before posting, i know, sorry. the reviews on that one look awful so i guess the sensible thing to do is bite the bullet and get the real thing
http://www.amazon.com/Engel-MR040-M...6414317&sr=1-3&keywords=compressor+fridge+12v
looks like it should run on a 60w solar panel?

That Engel looks nice.   Other models use the Danfoss compressor which is also 12V or 24V and consumes about 60 watts when running.

I am going to guess it consumes about 400whr per day or so.   My much larger fridge with a Danfoss consumes 600whr per day.

400whr/6 hr of sun = 66 watt panel minimum but I would go for something in the 100 to 150 watt range.