All fridges can benefit from added insulation, but if it is already in a cabinet designed around it, doing so requires cabinet modifications.
The business end of the cooling unit, and its ventilation is very important.
There should not be a huge dead space behind the condenser coils, but about 3/4 to 1 inch of space. With less space the geat released will cause convection currents to draw coolerer air upward over the coils, with too much space the space just keeps getting hotter and the refrigerant is less able to transfer heat.
In Summertime some have found that adding computer fans to help the airflow back here can help, but other found that making the baffling correctly so convection currents work as designed, is just as good with no additional electrical draw.
Just do not believe the manufacturer was concerned with airflow considerations at the back for maximum efficiency. They know it is all about how it looks from the front, for their bottom line, and that is all they care about.
Improper or poor refrigeration installments are likely causes of their premature demise. Let them breathe. Constrict the breathing, then wait for failure.
High CFM fans are not needed to help airflow behind an absorption fridge in hot ambient temps. Just a slow low draw 120MM fan can greatly increase the ability of the fridge to keep up when it is hot outside. You can wire a fan to a Snap switch, which will turn the fan on at a certain temperature and off at another.
Here is just one. The opening and closing temps are variables;
http://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Sw...F8&qid=1426356129&sr=8-2&keywords=snap+switch