Educated opinions on window air conditioner?

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Considering a cheap window unit to mount in window under sleeping area of my camper. I've heard that rough riding may be hazardous to a window unit's health. While I'm not going to do any serious four wheeling I've never let a rough road keep from where I wanted to be. Any input on that?

Here's one I'm considering: Frigidaire 5,000 BTU model FFRA051151-1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigida...with-Mechanical-Controls-FFRA051WAE/308328843

I don't envision using this often but just in case I HAVE to be somewhere where the temps are really high at night. I need my beauty sleep.  :D
Would be used on shore power or gennie only till I get a larger solar/battery array. I'll be using a Champion propane gennie rated at about 3200 watts continuous.
Apparently has a soft start feature.
Any educated input would be greatly appreciated. TIA
 

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I have that exact unit in my step van. A few days ago it was 90 degrees outside and the unit took it down to 68 degrees in about 20 minutes. Runs fine on my Honda EU1000i inverter/generator.

Caveat: my step van has a minimum of 2 inches of pink Formular on 5 sides, and one inch under the floor. The exposed side window is dual payne.

I think you will like it.
 
JiminDenver had been running a similar unit for awhile now. We wore it out but it sure was nice not being out in 100 degree temps in my van. He's got his in a 26 ft travel trailer and goes places you and I wouldn't consider.
 
I have an almost identical unit in my sticks-n-bricks bedroom and have experimented on it using a 1000 watt inverter generator and it ran fine. 

This unit was previously in my old Class A Winnebago when it was parked for an extended period, and it cooled that 22ft living space fairly well. They are also reasonably quiet.

Mine does not have a screen on the outside condenser coils, so if hail hits it, or random kids push the fins in, you might have to go at it with a plastic tool to open the fins back up.

But otherwise, I think it will work ok for you.
 
I think I might put a small unit in my camper.The 15000btu one on the roof is just too noisy.
 
Window units work fine in RV applications. A small one will freeze you out of your small camper in no time. It's really helpful, though, if you can find a way to move the AC unit inside your rig while you're going down the road, thus eliminating all the stress on the unit and on the wall/window structure of your RV.

Another good solution is one of these free-standing units they use in houses with odd-shaped windows. I've been using one of these in my cargo trailer for several years -- works great. Mine's a cheap LG unit some thing like this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Costway...ier-Function-Remote-in-White-with-Window-Kit-

All you have to do is route the exhaust out the side of the camper. I cut a hole in the floor of my cargo trailer(@3"x6" or so) and run it out through there. Easy Peasy.

Johnny
 
I bit the bullet and ordered one. Should be here Friday. Since I have space between camper and cab I'll mount it under the sleeping area and brace it really well. It'll be out of the sun there but right under me sleeping, trade off.
 

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Make sure that there is plenty of air flow especially out the back end. Any restriction causes the compressor to heat up.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Yep....airflow AND a place for the condensate drain. 

In humid weather especially.

This model is designed to not drain. The condensation is routed over the cooling fins, supposedly.
 
Most window units have a 'slinger ring' around the fan blades which picks up the water in the bottom tray...and that helps cool the condenser fins... but, there is always a drain port because excess condensation water (and of course, rain) needs to be drained before it can 'swamp' the fan or cause water leakage into the living space.

My nearly identical unit does have a small hole in the bottom tray....I just looked.
 
@tx2sturgis, yes, I think this one is the same on draining. I have 19" of clearance between cab and camper. Unit depth dimension is 15-1/4". Assuming at least a couple of inches, or more, will sit inside exterior of camper, that gives me roughly 6" of airflow space out the rear. Rigging the drain via a tube or something shouldn't be too difficult.

Do you think that 6"-7" of rear clearance is enough for airflow without any other mods?
 
I used to have this old Westinghouse 5000 btu I experimented with.  It had the slinger ring on the fan.  It was given to me and Dad and I took it apart to clean and inspect it.  Yeah, it was full of crap and needed it.  

There was a small hole that dad took his drill and drilled out a bit larger.   He cut a small piece of copper tubing and cemented it in place with 2 part epoxy putty tape.   Then drilled a hole in the plastic housing and fed a piece of clear vinyl tubing thru that hole and the tubing was attached to the nipple.   It worked OK, not much water came out of it though.  

The idea was that it sit on the floor by the right back door and it blew from under the bed.   Grand Dad made a cover that sealed the top of the A/C unit to the other three sides of the door frame.  The stuff he used looked like it was made from a yellow slicker rain coat.   It wasn't a perfect seal,  but it worked OK and was a quick EZ solution if I was where I could get 110 vac in a camp ground.   But at the places I was camping in, I didn't really need it that much.
 
MaTaLa said:
Do you think that 6"-7" of rear clearance is enough for airflow without any other mods?

My thought is that it will be fine, unless it's really hot outside (above 90 degrees or so) and the air is hot, humid, and stagnant around the unit itself.

As long as there is some outside air blowing thru the cab/camper interface it should be fine. I've seen units like this mounted 'flush' with limited airflow in small trailers and they seem to work.
 
Can't find a drain hole on the unit. I do hear the cha ching of fan hitting water which, iirc, is normal. Once I get a circulating fan to cool off the sleeping area I think it'll do the trick. How it holds up on rough roads, we'll just have to see. I've got it installed rock solid.
 
It might drain out the back and could be a condition of how level it is. Dunno for sure though, just a thought. They were designed for a S&B. What did the installation instructions say about condensate?
 
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