I am not sure if that no load draw of 0.65 amps is included in the general 80 to 85% efficiency of the inverter.
However you should not be planning on 'cutting it that close' because then you will only be able to run when you want, for as long as you want, in ideal conditions.
I am rather surprised how much more juice my 800 watt PSM coleman inverter uses powering a 55 watt heating pad, compared to my 400 watt PSW Wagan elite inverter. A full extra amp!.
As for no load consumption the wagan is 0.24a, the coleman 0.68a.
I rarely use the Coleman anymore.
Please keep in mind getting the battery back upto full takes more than math, it takes time, and after many successive days of not getting to 100%, then the time required at absorption voltage increases, making it even harder to get to 100%.
So, Go for as much solar as you can fit and afford, rather than just enough. If all you can fit is not affordable right now, use thicker wiring and make sure the controller can handle the extra wattage when you can afford it.
Couple this with only expecting 80% of the panels rated output and it producing that 80% only a few hours either side of solar noon when aimed at the sun.
Running numbers is great and logical, but there are too many efficiencies to put a stamp of approval on 'theoretically enough'
Youse gotsta plan for inefficiency and much less than ideal solar conditions
One other consideration is the Peukert effect.
a healthy fully charged 100 AH battery can support a 5 amp load for 20 hours before voltage hits 10.5v which is considered 100% discharged
Loads over 5 amps on this battery, reduce that 100AH figure to something less. the bigger the load the less the battery has to give.
Combine/account for the inefficiencies, or the math, can't work