Diesel has more energy density, why is propane so popular?

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Yes Truma does this too but they sell only to RV OEMs as I understand it.

I love that guy’s videos. I’ve been using extruded aluminum a lot for the last year in another project, but he turned me on to some neat profiles 80/20 has.

I’ve long thought 80/20 was overpriced, but I just priced out plain steel square tube and aluminum tube from onlinemetals.com and it wasn’t cheaper! I guess aluminum is expensive.


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Your 8020 design I'm sure has lots more to it, but just talking about the hydronic heating, is way overthinking, too low a flow volume and obviously very expensive.

Technomad said:
The main thing that draws power with forced air heating, in my suspicion, is the motor that has to force air thru a radiator.
Yes there is a need for some air circulation to reduce stratification, but the water-to-air exchangers can just be strategically placed and low down, no forced air blowers needed.

A regular house style baseboard, or old-school radiators are the tried and true and much cheaper templates. But if you want to improve on that, save space and get more flexibility, I'd just enbed into the floor, no reason to go higher.

A square tube set above insulation flush with the floor where it is exposed but won't be stepped on would be enough.

Larger tubing provides some thermal mass buffering, with a higher hysteresis gap would require only periodic cycling of the transfer fluid, more efficient electrically.

In a tight well-insulated space, minimum ventilation just to keep humidity down, you'd be amazed just how little energy is required to stay comfortable, especially with the thermal mass effect allowing you to use lower temps for the transfer fluid.

Now, if the living space is allowed to go very cold, and you want a fast warm up, then a high-temp forced-air blower is appropriate, but only needs to run for the first 15-30 minutes while the slower loop gets going.

But a passive thin-panel radiator pointing right in front of where you're sitting would be almost as good.

A system that allowed you to recirculate the fluid to get it up to very high temp quickly, then scale it down to just periodic cycling once the warm space just needs maintenance, would give the most flexibility.

All of this is independent of the fuel used.

I think heating oil would be great but not available in many places, and even in New England, I'm sure difficult to just roll up in a vehicle and buy, because of that tax issue.
 
tx2sturgis said:
They are often called 'bunk heater' or 'parking heater'.

They are expensive. And the installation is complicated. They burn between a half a gallon to a gallon of fuel per night (on really cold nights) and you can double that for 24 hour (cold weather) use. They also require DC from your batteries for the electronics, the blower, and the dosing pump. 

But they are safe, they work well, and they have automatic temperature setting, set and forget. You can upgrade some of them to a timed controller, but most RV's would not need that feature. 

Google these for more info:

Airtronic, Webasto, Espar.

This is why I'm glad to have propane. The heaters cost from $60-$140 propane and diesel are similar in cost. But I don't need to use electricity to run it (I can use my small 12V fan) but the van heats up enough anyway. PLus at 5 gallons, that's the same size as my propane tank. If that tank falls over, no biggie.  I'm sure some like the options, but sounds too expensive to install and realize it's not working out for you.
 
John61CT said:
Your 8020 design I'm sure has lots more to it, but just talking about the hydronic heating, is way overthinking, too low a flow volume and obviously very expensive.

Not sure why you say this.  It does look like I picked the wrong eberspacher unit, but alas it's hard to get prices when these things aren't available off the shelf easily.  One thing the marine environment has, while you can't order stuff online any better, you can go to your boat yard and get them to order it for you, a lot easier than you can walk into camping world and order stuff that you're going to install yourself.  At least I'm assuming.

As for the 8020 it is going to be there anyway, so it's not a cost to heating.  It will involve bars running along the floor, so no cost to run the exchange fluid loop along the bars inside their channels.  If the coolant is cool when it enters the heater, that's fine, shows maximum heat transfer from the coolant to the environment. 

Also found this, might be a little bit more retail friendly, but haven't called them yet:
http://www.aquahot.com/products/Tiny-Home/250P.aspx

Bonus is it will heat on 120V when you're connected to shore power.
 
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