PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Thanks! We'll see how long that braze will hold. It's in a low stress area, so I imagine it will be fine.
>>> what does one do?
Ah, ..... Cleanse your desire for that darn diesel ? Sorry, Someone has to say it. Sorry, Really.
That fund ran out awhile ago! Currently living on a friends lawn doing odd jobs to get by.How big can one’s emergency fund be? Never big enough it seems!
No idea what's wrong with the transmission. The least of my worries as the transmission should be an easy and cheap fix regardless of what went wrong with it. But it's not possible to have a limp home mode.I've always been a Cummins 6BT 12 valve fan & my last was a '93 1 ton dually 12' flatbed made the last month they made 12 valves with no computer. Your tranny may be OK as it sounds like it's in the limp home mode. I had one do that & everyone said rebuild but turned out to be a $60 switch. Was it a FedEx truck?
Luckily I haven't spent much money on engines yet. But maybe I need to save money and just buy a new one? I'm not one to deviate from stock, as that can produce even more problems.>>> what does one do?
Ah, ..... Cleanse your desire for that darn diesel ? Sorry, Someone has to say it. Sorry, Really.
I feel really bad for you. The ultimate vehicle, And you know I know it ! .....But with a problematic powerplant. Ugh.
3 years you have been living out the stepvan dream, Seems most of the time fighting Engine troubles. Unless of course you put 20-30K on her without me knowing ?
I know you did not like my earlier views on just running a Small Block Gas V8 engine, but I would just LOVE to see the real $ math here.
Lots of people do not like to see the real math, you know, miles traveled, fuel costs, repair cost totals, compared to what perhaps a late model LT conversion with a good 4L80 might have done and its 10-12mpg. I've just never seen the diesel numbers work out for a vehicle like this.
I always got 10mph with a low powered quadrajet carbed V8. I can't imagine how nice a late model would have been, and dang,,, they are running problematic for 300K. (and dont stink doing it).
So, I'm sure we all want to know... Are you going to stick yet another 4BT in it ?
Hmmm, it seems to be a good simple mounting system on the P30 chassis. Plenty of room all around engine to work on things. One of the biggest things I like about this setup!Most of the good 4BTs have been bought up by now. Even if you can find a good one, the mount design that was used when fleets installed them in Grummans in the 1990s is terrible (it shakes enough to break things) and hard to improve due to space constraints.
And the diaphram lift pump that came with most 4BTs (i.e those with Bosch VE injection pumps) is unreliable and costs about $250 to convert to a piston pump.
You can actually find some good B Series engines in South America, but I think shipping one up to the US wouldn't be economical.
It's not working indeed. Taking a break, going to make some money, and hopefully find a good Cummins builder to take my dead horse and make it run again.It seems it might be in your particular situation that this particular drive train isn’t working out for you. It might be time to “quit kicking a dead horse” as my uncle used to say.
The injectors and fuel lines are definitely easy to access, much more so than they would be on a V8.Hmmm, it seems to be a good simple mounting system on the P30 chassis. Plenty of room all around engine to work on things. One of the biggest things I like about this setup!
Everything is super easy to access, I love it! But I've actually got the engine to almost be mounted straight. It used to be clocked with the top towards the driver side. Are there better engine mounts I can get to make things better? I also cruise at about 2000rpm, so no worries there.The injectors and fuel lines are definitely easy to access, much more so than they would be on a V8.
Yours is mounted at a ~7° slant to the right, isn't it? ...at least that's what I thought from your pics, and it's the way mine is mounted due to tight clearance between the VE pump and the left side of the firewall.
If so, the problem is that the 45° mounts on the P30 chassis are narrow and low, and the torque of the engine rocks it to the right. So both the vertical 2nd-order shake and the torque-induced lateral shake are pounding the right engine mount. And since the stock P30 gear ratios are too low for the 4BT, you're spending more time at higher revs where the force of that shake is worst.
Yes, I still have my health, so fortunate for that.You are living one of the nightmares Nomads face, costly break downs. But at least it was not an injury accident. The upside is you can still work and have a place to stay while working for funds to make the repair.
Yep There's a trick to removing the starter on mine, and some of the bolts on the VE pump are hard to reach, but just about everything else is super easy (e.g. injectors, timing case, belts, filters, lift pump, alternator, turbo).Everything is super easy to access, I love it!
Yours is set up differently than mine. Did you bend the bracket that connects the engine to the mount? Or how did you adjust the angle?But I've actually got the engine to almost be mounted straight. It used to be clocked with the top towards the driver side.
I haven't taken the plunge yet and I'll probably make mounts from scratch*, but FarmStrong makes a mount that's allegedly better. (You have to make the chassis-side bracket yourself, though.)Are there better engine mounts I can get to make things better? I also cruise at about 2000rpm, so no worries there.
A 6BT should fit in terms of length, but the oil pan might not clear.Can you make a 6 cyl 12 valve Cummins with a turbo fit? You can double the HP & torque just by manual tuning & they last forever with proper care. I thought you had an auto trans which many do have a limp mode. Would make a nice tiny house if you decide not to fix it.
.A 6BT should fit in terms of length, but the oil pan might not clear.
I think that a stock 6BT would have plenty of power. My stock 4BT will pull my 15' stepvan up modest grades at 55mph with an 1,800 lb. load in the back. And that's despite it currently being geared too low and hitting the engine's RPM governor (which cuts fuel flow) at around that speed.Can you make a 6 cyl 12 valve Cummins with a turbo fit? You can double the HP & torque just by manual tuning...
I'd never seen those, thanks* Factory-stock -- oil pans are available in front sump, rear sump, and dry dump with remote reservoir, plus probably anything else you can imagine.
I've heard of Bug and Corvair engines, but no Porsches until now (unless you count the Bug). What did you put them into?* Volkswagen flat-fours and Porsche flat-sixes into aircraft
I wouldn't say the engine is being stressed. That trailer weighed 1200lbs and that engine was the second best engine we've had so far. I will surely blow the gas engine up as well.Are you stressing the step van in ways that are unusual for them? I see the trailer behind, but I've missed some posts here and there so I'm not sure what that's for. Or how heavy it is.
I remember your initial build out and the the first engine taking a dump. The P30 also came with gas engines, so you could technically stay stock and get a less expensive drivetrain for it.
Didn't bend any brackets. The engine mounts go into slots on the frame that allow you to rotate engine maybe 10 degrees in either direction. I can understand the benefit of having the mounts on the center of the engine. But I really just want a running engine.Yep There's a trick to removing the starter on mine, and some of the bolts on the VE pump are hard to reach, but just about everything else is super easy (e.g. injectors, timing case, belts, filters, lift pump, alternator, turbo).
Yours is set up differently than mine. Did you bend the bracket that connects the engine to the mount? Or how did you adjust the angle?
I haven't taken the plunge yet and I'll probably make mounts from scratch*, but FarmStrong makes a mount that's allegedly better. (You have to make the chassis-side bracket yourself, though.)
They're definitely right that it's better to have the mounts close to the longitudinal center of the block. Mine uses the 3-bolt mounting faces at the front, and it vibrates more at the back, which means that it's shaking the whole driveline.
(*I'm planning to make mounts with an integral counter-balance to soak up the vertical shake and some of the torque-induced lateral and rotational vibration.)
A 6bt could fit. I did all the measurements and I don't think its worth my time and energy to do all the modifications. The 4bt has all the power I need and lots of room to work on it easily.Can you make a 6 cyl 12 valve Cummins with a turbo fit? You can double the HP & torque just by manual tuning & they last forever with proper care. I thought you had an auto trans which many do have a limp mode. Would make a nice tiny house if you decide not to fix it.
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