PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Yep, should be the exact same suspension setup. I do have a GM chassis. Only difference would be my van just has stiffer springs. I have full GM c-channel chassis all the way to the rear bumper.
Cummins Canoe (A Stepvan Story)
- Thread starter PlethoraOfGuns
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The G20 Lower swing arms swing in Rubber Bushings whereas Plethora's uses the G30 (one ton Chevy Van) swing arm that pivots on plain old simple threaded steel. A little noisier, but more rigid.
How are your upper REAR shock mounts ? Both my P30 trucks had broken one side off at an inconvenient times (Drivers Side I think). Thank god for 3d Wire printers because I really had to "make metal" on the last one.
I sure rather do hate you you know... you really make me MISS MY STEP !!!! All of your "break downs"... watching how lucky you are to easily crawl around the most serviceable chassis on the planet..... Most people just do not understand.
I wouldn't however miss the absolute racket you do have in that cab though. Been there !
How are your upper REAR shock mounts ? Both my P30 trucks had broken one side off at an inconvenient times (Drivers Side I think). Thank god for 3d Wire printers because I really had to "make metal" on the last one.
I sure rather do hate you you know... you really make me MISS MY STEP !!!! All of your "break downs"... watching how lucky you are to easily crawl around the most serviceable chassis on the planet..... Most people just do not understand.
I wouldn't however miss the absolute racket you do have in that cab though. Been there !
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Ah yes, thanks for the clarification. The threaded steel rod design is very robust, just gotta keep them greased! I can't hear the noise from the suspension over the sound of the engine!
The rear shock mounts are fine. It's the mounts on the front control arms that keep breaking off. The step vans are pretty enjoyable to work on. The ease of access is amazing! Just need to stop all these annoying weird things from breaking.
The rear shock mounts are fine. It's the mounts on the front control arms that keep breaking off. The step vans are pretty enjoyable to work on. The ease of access is amazing! Just need to stop all these annoying weird things from breaking.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Now that I'm not battling crippling repairs, I can finally make things more better!
[size=small]There aren't many good things to say about stock headlights from 30 years ago, except that they would last forever and not fog up like modern plastic ones do. But the light output was really terrible, and I really did everything I could to avoid driving at night, so it was time to upgrade. The lights are definitely better, but I was hoping for better. The new led ones from Maxima are still kind of spotty. On high beam, oh boy, they light up the whole town! But I can't always have them on. Oh well. I feel comfortable driving at night so all is well.[/size]
[size=small]It's been very hard to keep the hood closed lately. Found out the hood latch bracket was broken.[/size]
[size=small]Had a spare headset for the intercom system. It always shorts out and causes interference over the whole intercom system. Found the reason why.[/size]
[size=small]Nothing a little solder and heat shrink can't fix.[/size]
[size=small]The passenger side seatbelt has been a pain to operate. It was a hasty install and was bolted on crooked due to interference with the sliding door. Cut the mounting bracket and welded it at an offset angle so it's nice and straight.[/size]
[size=small]The big rear cabinet under the workbench needed shelves too. Much better to keep organized instead of just piling things in there and ramming the door shut real quick in hopes that it all won't avalanche back out.[/size]
[size=small]Came up with a new idea to keep the fridge doors closed. A simple wooden peg with a piece of rubber hose on it put through a ring. Simple and effective. Using the ratchet strap across the door to keep the milk and eggs in the fridge was getting very old.[/size]
[size=small]There aren't many good things to say about stock headlights from 30 years ago, except that they would last forever and not fog up like modern plastic ones do. But the light output was really terrible, and I really did everything I could to avoid driving at night, so it was time to upgrade. The lights are definitely better, but I was hoping for better. The new led ones from Maxima are still kind of spotty. On high beam, oh boy, they light up the whole town! But I can't always have them on. Oh well. I feel comfortable driving at night so all is well.[/size]
[size=small]It's been very hard to keep the hood closed lately. Found out the hood latch bracket was broken.[/size]
[size=small]Had a spare headset for the intercom system. It always shorts out and causes interference over the whole intercom system. Found the reason why.[/size]
[size=small]Nothing a little solder and heat shrink can't fix.[/size]
[size=small]The passenger side seatbelt has been a pain to operate. It was a hasty install and was bolted on crooked due to interference with the sliding door. Cut the mounting bracket and welded it at an offset angle so it's nice and straight.[/size]
[size=small]The big rear cabinet under the workbench needed shelves too. Much better to keep organized instead of just piling things in there and ramming the door shut real quick in hopes that it all won't avalanche back out.[/size]
[size=small]Came up with a new idea to keep the fridge doors closed. A simple wooden peg with a piece of rubber hose on it put through a ring. Simple and effective. Using the ratchet strap across the door to keep the milk and eggs in the fridge was getting very old.[/size]
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I would STILL forget the peg........
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
How would one remember the peg? I've forgotten to secure the door a number of times. Got lucky and haven't spilled the eggs and milk everywhere. Still frustrating when I do forget.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Something obnoxious and bulky, I like it!
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
I don't think I'll ever win. Noticed my coolant levels in radiator have been dropping and eventually a small puddle of coolant under the rig. Other than that, everything is running great. Tracked it down from dripping from the bell housing, behind the starter, up the side of the block, under the exhaust manifold...
[size=small]Oh great, less than a year and the head gasket already went.[/size]
[size=small]But wait, that's leaking from the head bolt? Ok, could still be head gasket. Checked torque on bolt, seemed to be ok, removed it, everything seemed fine. Put bolt back in, re-torqued it. Ran engine again while looking closely. Coolant was not leaking from bolt.[/size]
[size=small]In the corner of the casting, there is a small crack that coolant is bubbling through, hard to see, but it's clearly there, maybe an inch long. Just what I need. Winter is fast approaching and I might need a new cylinder head. I bought a Cummins so I wouldn't have these issues. This rig is cursed...[/size]
[size=small]Oh great, less than a year and the head gasket already went.[/size]
[size=small]But wait, that's leaking from the head bolt? Ok, could still be head gasket. Checked torque on bolt, seemed to be ok, removed it, everything seemed fine. Put bolt back in, re-torqued it. Ran engine again while looking closely. Coolant was not leaking from bolt.[/size]
[size=small]In the corner of the casting, there is a small crack that coolant is bubbling through, hard to see, but it's clearly there, maybe an inch long. Just what I need. Winter is fast approaching and I might need a new cylinder head. I bought a Cummins so I wouldn't have these issues. This rig is cursed...[/size]
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
You're probably still better off with the Cummins. Nobody has the problems I have. I think I just got a lemon. My only saving grace is that it's easy to work on.
I am tipping my hat to Ms PlethoraOfGuns regarding the wisdom of Windex and solar panels.
Today, I eschewed my telescoping squeegee, weed sprayer, and white vinegar routine, opting instead for a roll of paper towels and a bottle of generic blue window cleaner. Only two things to carry up the ladder in one trip. Doing it by hand produced cleaner panels.
Today, I eschewed my telescoping squeegee, weed sprayer, and white vinegar routine, opting instead for a roll of paper towels and a bottle of generic blue window cleaner. Only two things to carry up the ladder in one trip. Doing it by hand produced cleaner panels.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
I've also heard that cleaning your panels doesn't really help increase their output. Not sure what I think about that, I still clean mine regularly.
Yeah, you never see anyone (or any droids/drones) cleaning the solar panels at those massive solar panel farms.
I have four panels that are idle. One clean, one 1/3 clean, one 2/3 clean, and one dirty. Check panel voltages.
I have four panels that are idle. One clean, one 1/3 clean, one 2/3 clean, and one dirty. Check panel voltages.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Hmmm, good point. I've never thought about cleaning big arrays like that. It would be a good experiment to find out if a dirty panel actually makes a noticeable difference.
With all the "stuff" floating around in the air, acid rain, etc. everyone's panels are dirty, really dirty. There is an expected reduction in performance from an accumulation that dries to a dull film on the surface. Just pure logic.
I started to do a search but quickly realized those large arrays require cleaning as that is just common sense. And they hire companies to do exactly that.
Now I do remember several years ago when Bob W was posting and he commented he's never cleaned his panels. I thought then and continue to believe that some folks don't feel the need to clean and I disagree, but I take showers too so who am I to say.
Just my old 2¢
I started to do a search but quickly realized those large arrays require cleaning as that is just common sense. And they hire companies to do exactly that.
Now I do remember several years ago when Bob W was posting and he commented he's never cleaned his panels. I thought then and continue to believe that some folks don't feel the need to clean and I disagree, but I take showers too so who am I to say.
Just my old 2¢
B and C
Well-known member
I rarely clean my panels. They are not easy to get to as I have to drag out the ladder that is buried deep. Maybe twice a year but they keep the batteries happy so that is all I need. YMMV
Spaceman Spiff
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In 8 years I have cleaned my panels a few times: when blocked by wet leaves sticking to the panels or when covered by snow, and only with a squeegee.
They still perform as new; my batteries are usually full before 1 pm.
They still perform as new; my batteries are usually full before 1 pm.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
I find myself cleaning the panels about 4 times per year. The dust is one thing, but I'm a magnet for bird poop, and that can't be good. I know it probably won't make all that much of a difference, but I'll always be cleaning my panels.
PlethoraOfGuns
Well-known member
Oh boy, it's been a stressful week. Did many hours of research. We're going to attempt to fix the cylinder head right on the engine. It's already screwed, so I don't think we can do much worse. Picked up some silicon bronze TIG brazing rods and went to town practicing a new skill.
[size=small]My first few beads on an old piece of disc brake rotor were not so great. Then I cut some grooves into a jack stand support in a fashion that I envisioned would be what I would do to the cylinder head. In both my research and personal experience I found that there are different grades of cast iron. One grade you just can't weld. Another grade in which it's almost impossible. And another grade that you have a 50/50 shot at it working. Whatever grade the brake rotor was meant that it was one that isn't good to weld. The jack stand one did pretty good in receiving the braze. What grade is the cylinder head? I'm not sure, and this keeps me up at night. What am I getting myself into?[/size]
[size=small]Did many practice beads, I think I was getting the hang of it. The lower melting point of the silicon bronze rods made it act very different than regular TIG welding rods. It took some finese to get the temperature right and make it actually work well. Need to get the temperature high enough to melt the rod but not high enough to melt the cast iron. I can see many other applications where these techniques can come in handy.[/size]
[size=small]Dug out the crack in the cylinder head. Here going nothing...[/size]
[size=small]My first few beads on an old piece of disc brake rotor were not so great. Then I cut some grooves into a jack stand support in a fashion that I envisioned would be what I would do to the cylinder head. In both my research and personal experience I found that there are different grades of cast iron. One grade you just can't weld. Another grade in which it's almost impossible. And another grade that you have a 50/50 shot at it working. Whatever grade the brake rotor was meant that it was one that isn't good to weld. The jack stand one did pretty good in receiving the braze. What grade is the cylinder head? I'm not sure, and this keeps me up at night. What am I getting myself into?[/size]
[size=small]Did many practice beads, I think I was getting the hang of it. The lower melting point of the silicon bronze rods made it act very different than regular TIG welding rods. It took some finese to get the temperature right and make it actually work well. Need to get the temperature high enough to melt the rod but not high enough to melt the cast iron. I can see many other applications where these techniques can come in handy.[/size]
[size=small]Dug out the crack in the cylinder head. Here going nothing...[/size]
