converting a cargo trailer...how best to heat it???

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Hello my name is Hilary and I have just joined this group. My two sons and I lost out home in the CA wildfires last August and after moving from one temporary accommodation to the next we have decided to hit the road!!. My eldest son is wanting to convert a cargo trailer 6'x12.5' to tow behind his Toyota Tacoma. We are really interested to connect with others who have done the same. What is the safest, most economical way to heat it? We have lots of other questions and would love to start a conversation. Look forward to hearing from you. Blessings, Hilary
 
A vented propane heater if you are going to boondock or a cheap 120 volt 1500 watt ceramic electric heater if you camp where you have access to grid power hookups. If the Tacoma is a 4 cylinder you may be disappointed with it’s performance pulling the trailer. Be sure to check your vehicles towing capacity and the weight of the cargo trailer before purchase to see if the combination will work safely. Welcome by the way!
 
Welcome Hilary, and no matter how you heat the trailer, you will need to insulate the walls and roof if you plan to be staying for extended amounts of time in below-freezing weather. Insulation will still be very beneficial even if you are in just 'mildly cool' weather.

You can either buy one that is insulated from the factory (special order) or do the work yourself. At the same time, you will probably want to add one or two windows for light and ventilation. 

Also, most cargo trailers do not come with doors that can be opened from inside, so you will need to either modify the side door or order the trailer with an 'RV Style' door.
 
I'm going to recommend the Diesel Bunk Heater option. Kerosene or diesel is plenty easy to find no matter where you go, and is a fuel that is not flash problematic. My older 6000 Btu Espar/Eberspacher could easily heat you out of a 7' x 7' x 14' box, automatically turning on and off when necessary.

VERY economical to run regards fuel. The 6000Btu Espar could only burn about a gallon a day on high, but you could never run it on high all day. It would get you too hot ! On low, they just sip very small amounts of fuel. Once the interior warmed up, it would never even jump to high (it automatically ramped both flame and fan according to the need for heat). 95% of the time it would just stay on low, and with a little sunshine, shut down completely until the thermostat called for heat.

You DO need electricity though. Not much when running, but it does take a bit of a surge to get fired up. Maybe a minute of 20-25 amps, and then drop to an amp and a half, all the way down to just under a half amp as I recall. Most legitimate solar installations will not have a problem.

The Espar's can run anywhere from $850 to $1600..... But MANY people seem to be really happy with the imported knockoffs found on Ebay and Amazon, often for under $150 !!!

I will be buying one of the import units for my 6x12 trailer soon now that they have been on the market for a while and the bugs worked out.
 
I would recommend a roof fan/vent.
This can help moderate milder temps and as well insure the space is properly ventilated.
The MaxxFan Deluxe models are popular, and the middle model is reversible to use as intake or exhaust.
 
Newbie to newbie, first define the intended use, are you chasing the sun or weathering winter elements? That will clue you in to the insulation required. You might consider what goes in there and the arrangements before turning the trailer into an ice cooler as insulation takes up space.

IMHO, insulation is overly stressed, consider the heat source and cost of operation along with the fuels required. Not saying don't insulate but the biggest area of concern is first to the roof, then walls and lastly the floor.

Depending on locations and seasons, without extremes, you can get by in 20 degree weather in a tin can if you have the btu to throw out the heat.....and how often is that needed? You might as well be tent camping, which is done all the time.

Cooling is another matter, under the sun, you can shade the trailer with canvas or tarp to keep the sun from turning your roof in to an oven. Air circulation between the canvas and trailer roof can make a big difference. Awnings can do wonders for the walls on sunny days. Insulation will help much more when it comes to air conditioning.

Other considerations are at play, are you going solar, any roof racks with a kayak up there?

Drop back and define the use, where will you be when? What weather do you expect? What is the heat source?

Not to pound on someone else's suggestion, which is about diesel, which can be very nice when you have diesel, one of the cons is that it really smells. You most likely don't want to mess with diesel jerry cans inside a cargo trailer, if you spill that stuff it will stink until next year!

Lastly, you mentioned 3 of you, a 12 footer will be pretty tight for 3 adult sized humans, two is tight and one is just fine, depends on what you can deal with I guess. Think about rainy days, storms most of the day, using the toilet, trying to cook for 3.....you get the picture. I have a 6 x 12 with a V nose, for 2 of us and a boxer, it can be tight quarters.

Best of luck with your plan and be safe!
 
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