Connecting power to solenoid for aux. power

[Paul b]

I want to connect a Cole hersee 24213 but am unsure of a safe place to connect a fuse and wire to activate the solenoid. I have a 2003f150. There is no unused relay slot in the fuse panel under the hood and am not comfortable 
with connecting to just anything that works off the switch. I'd prefer to not connect to anything important Incase something blows.although it only takes 1-2amps to activate I don't think the radio is  good place because it is Procted by a 3 amp fuse

 

[Trebor English]

You can connect it to a manually operated switch.  That way it is your responsibility to remember to turn it off.  You always remember to put transmission in park or first,  turn off the ignition, take key, unbuckle seat belt, open door and then, after 5 steps, get out.  One more switch will become habit too.

Your radio has two supplies.  One is for the clock and station presets and is always on.  The other one is switched.  It might be 10 or 20 amps.

 

[Weight]

You tie into the chosen circuit before the fuse for the device. I used my wiper circuit. I have a wiring diagram so it was a little easier to find the place to tap. The wiper circuit is one that disconnects when the starter is engaged. On my vehicle it does not engage when the key is on Accessory.

 

[SternWake]

The Hvac blower motor is not active during engine cranking on my 89 dodge, and can handle another amp draw from a solenoid.

Putting an illuminated switch on the solenoid trigger circuit is wise. Sometimes a wet belt and a depleted battery will have the belt screeching until it dries out and things warm up.

One can still choose a circuit that is off with engine off so that it is still automaticly off with engine off, but can choose to combine when driving or not.

I recommend one have a digital voltmeter whose sense lead is attached to house battery visible to driver. Hard to miss a 12.21v staring one in the face, and remember to flip the switch to on and see that voltage climb as the battery recharges

 

[Paul b]

Thanks for the info. I thought of tapping into the wiper circuit but was unsure if the motion of the wipers would effect it, now I know. I like the idea of a switch on the dash. To be clear would I be able to connect to a hot pin in my fuse box, add a 10 amp fuse than go to a switch with 14 ga wire than to solinoid. I have about 6 pins in the relay compartment that have a constant 12 volt with key on or off. What are your thoughts.

 

[Weight]

You can use a spare pin -if- it is off when the key is off. It is off when the starter is cranking.

 

[Paul b]

I don't have any that are off when the key is off they all have a constant 12 volts. I could be wrong but I thought that if I tapped into this hot leg to a switch and supply power to the solenoid only when needed it might work. Any advice on that? I have a 2003 f150 xl. No power windows or seats. Does anyone know why those pins are constant hot.
Thanks

 

[Weight]

If you don't want automatic protection, and chose to use a switch alone, just run a wire to any hot spot or even easier, direct to the battery. I don't recommend this as it is not that hard to find a circuit that works with the key switch. Are you over thinking this whole thing?

 

[Paul b]

If you don't want automatic protection, and chose to use a switch alone, just run a wire to any hot spot or even easier, direct to the battery. I don't recommend this as it is not that hard to find a circuit that works with the key switch. Are you over thinking this whole thing?

 

[Paul b]

I think partly over thinking and partly ignorance of how this should work. I appreciate your patience. I definitely want total protection and will use an inline fuse. I just don't want to use a keyed circuit that can't handle more draw. This might be where I'm over thinking because the draw to activate the solenoid is only 1-2 amps. In your opinion would you just find anything that works off the switch add an inline fuse and go with that.
Thanks for all the help

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

You need TWO in line fuses.  With most circuits, you only have one current source.  When you tie two batteries together, you've got two current sources, and each one needs to be protected by it's own fuse.

 

[Paul b]

You need TWO in line fuses.  With most circuits, you only have one current source.  When you tie two batteries together, you've got two current sources, and each one needs to be protected by it's own fuse.

Are you talking about fuses near the batteries? I have a 150 amp fuse for each. I am now looking for a switched source to connect a 10 amp fuse to activate the solenoid. Right now I'm checking for the wiper circuit as weight suggested he did. Thanks

 

[Weight]

Radio, drawback is it will come on with accessory switch. Heater fan is a good choice. Some vehicles are easy to tap the back of the key switch. My wipers don't come on with the accessory switch which makes it a good choice. Some wipers come on with accessory switch.

 

[galladanb]

OK, I have a few questions... I also have been putting this operation off because I don't want to zap anything.
Frankly, the entire process of installing anything new under the hood is quite overwhelming.
There is so little room under there, and everything seems to be squeezed in already.

Here are my stats, 2008 Chevy Express 3500, 4.8L (as I found out today...)

Here is a shot of the breaker panel, and the fuses... (there are several empty ones)


Here is the breaker layout, by the numbers...
The wipers are using relays, #70 & 71, I have no clue how to tap into that mess...???
AND they also use #39??? Goodness, how many does that system need????
I really would prefer to NOT use that mission critical system for an add on????


And here is where I think the 2AWG cable will attach? There is a boot on the RED cable there, and I believe a nut under it.
I stuck my phone up in there for this shot, It's gonna be really tuff to get in there...


So, a few of the empty ones have 12v, some don't? And the ones that do, the key position has no effect on them.
I really don't understand how to find the right one...?
How does one tap into an existing breaker, assuming I can find one that operates off the key, like everyone suggests?
There is no extra room for putting a wire alongside of the breaker, right???
Is there some magical aftermarket thingie to buy that taps a line out from a breaker?

Can the trigger wire be as small as 18AWG?
Place a fuse between the breaker tray and the solenoid, right? How many amps?
Place a fuse near the batteries on the 2AWG feed line, right? How many amps?

THANK YOU ALL IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR PATIENCE!!!!! AND YOUR ASSISTANCE!

Such Fun!!!

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Go to Amazon and search on "Fuse tap kit".  You will be shown a number of doohickeys to solve that problem.

 

[galladanb]

Cool, found them...
Now, how to find THE magical one?
See above questions....

Please!

 

[highdesertranger]

get a good one like this,

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-...9&sr=8-1&keywords=bussman+fuse+tap+automotive

make sure you get one that fits the fuses in you vehicle. the one I posted fits ATM fuses.

highdesertranger

 

[galladanb]

Sorry, not the tap, but the other questions from my post #14 above...

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

So, a few of the empty ones have 12v, some don't? And the ones that do, the key position has no effect on them.
I really don't understand how to find the right one...?

The empty ones are for things your vehicle doesn't have.  Some of them, for example, might have been used if the vehicle had a diesel engine instead of a gasoline one.

I would use my meter to find one that has 12 volts when the key is on and nothing when the key is off.  Then use the fuse tap kit to pull power from that position.  What it was originally supposed to power is irrelevant.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Can the trigger wire be as small as 18AWG?
Place a fuse between the breaker tray and the solenoid, right? How many amps?

Does your solenoid have any specs on how much power it draws to activate it?

As a general thing, most solenoids I've seen usually only need less than one amp to be activated.  There is, for example, a Cole Hersee (good brand) 150 amp CD solenoid that uses 0.7 amps to activate, after which it uses 0.5 amps to hold it open.

So yeah, an 18 gauge wire should be fine.  It's rated for carrying 7 amps. (16 gauge is rated for 10 amps).  And a 3 amp fuse in the fuse tap should work fine.  In the HIGHLY unlikely event it blows, try going up to a 5 amp.