Chinese Diesel Heater Controller Different?

[Surf44]

On my first trip in my sprinter van and up north so I’ve been using the heater quite a bit. Most nights it’s cold enough to need it on but not cold enough to keep it running all night. So I’m either waking up cold or hot.

I started looking up if you can set a timer on these heaters and found you can but every controller that I have watched a video on or read about is different than mine.

They all have a clock looking symbol and they can scroll through settings. Mine only has the setting symbol and nothing happens when I press it, It just beeps.

I bought mine in 2020 so it's not that old and I have not seen one controller screen that looks like mine online, But most of what Ive found is always someone overseas. Does anybody have this screen like mine or is there something I need to do to get back to the normal screen and be able to set a timer?

The first pic is what everyone that Ive watched has and the second pic is mine. Nothing happens when I press the settings button and I can only turn it on and off and change the hertz.


Edit: Just realized this is the Choosing The Right Vehicle forum sorry for posting in the wrong section.

 

[PeterPiper]

That timer is a bit confusing.....
There's a good YT video that explains it.
It works differently than expected.

It looks like you're on the frequency screen and need to learn how to get to the other settings.
Yours has the screen on the Left....you just have to get there.

 

[Surf44]

Yeah that's all the videos I've been seeing but I don't know how to get off whatever screen Im on. Nothing happens when I hit the settings button other than a beep or when I hit ok it cycles through what Im guessing is the Temperature the number will change but right now it shows 16c if I hit ok again it goes to the voltage and again it goes to the hertz.

 

[PeterPiper]

Yeah that's all the videos I've been seeing but I don't know how to get off whatever screen Im on. Nothing happens when I hit the settings button other than a beep or when I hit ok it cycles through what Im guessing is the Temperature the number will change but right now it shows 16c if I hit ok again it goes to the voltage and again it goes to the hertz.

IIRC, I had a defective controller once that did that.
I believe there are some cheaper remotes that have less functionality. But then, IIRC, the control Board INSIDE the diesel heater actually controls that. Meaning it could be that you have the controller board inside with no options. I did change the controller board in one of my heaters that came with a limited controller board. After the swap it had full functionality.

Hope that helps

 

[Surf44]

ah that's a bummer. I was wondering if I just got a bad controller and could maybe just buy a new controller and swap them out. Id probably just buy and entire heater to have a spare or add a second to the back garage area to and on that one I wouldn't care about a timer. But Id hate to have to uninstall the one under the passenger seat to fully swap the entire thing but sounds like that's what I have to do. Thanks for the help

 

[PeterPiper]

ah that's a bummer. I was wondering if I just got a bad controller and could maybe just buy a new controller and swap them out. Id probably just buy and entire heater to have a spare or add a second to the back garage area to and on that one I wouldn't care about a timer. But Id hate to have to uninstall the one under the passenger seat to fully swap the entire thing but sounds like that's what I have to do. Thanks for the help

You ALWAYS need to have spares. Imagine being in your van on a night dipping into the teens and your circuit board goes out.
I have a large tool box full to the top with parts for my heaters (I have 4 I think)
4 spare controllers, 3 spare controller boards, spare pumps etc etc. I haven't needed them yet, but I'm ready.

These low cost diesel heaters are the best thing since bread and jelly.
Many complain about the pump noise but I sleep just fine with the pump 3 feet from my head at night.

 

[hugemoth]

Looks like you have the same one as I do on my all in one heater. If you press and hold the settings button and the OK button together do you get the high altitude icon that looks like a mountain? One key thing to look for is the number of blades on the fan icon, yours has 3, the other one has 6. Certain motherboards will only work with certain controllers so if you want a more common controller you'll have to replace the mother board as well.

 

[hugemoth]

This may be of help.

 

[Surf44]

Looks like you have the same one as I do on my all in one heater. If you press and hold the settings button and the OK button together do you get the high altitude icon that looks like a mountain? One key thing to look for is the number of blades on the fan icon, yours has 3, the other one has 6. Certain motherboards will only work with certain controllers so if you want a more common controller you'll have to replace the mother board as well.

Nothing happens when I press and hold settings and ok. Does yours when you have it on a low hertz do a periodioc ramp up in fan speed and pump speed. Ive heard these heaters don't like to be ran constantly on low but mine every 10-15 min (haven't timed it) ramps up to full power for a couple mins then goes back to normal.

 

[hugemoth]

No, mine holds a steady RPM when on any setting. It only ramps up during the warmup and shutdown cycles. The high altitude setting slows the pump Hz while keeping the fan speed the same. There is no 1688 admin settings like my other one.

The best controller for setting and using the timer is the common 5 button black LCD one that you see in most YouTube videos. On those you can set the on and off time. On the newer red or blue controllers with the 2 way remote you have to punch in how many hours in the future you want it to turn on and how many hours to run.

 

[LoupGarou]

Not sure about the Chinese controllers but my Espar D2 controller functions as a thermostat. I set the temperature then the infinity symbol for the time. It cycles on and off as it needs too.

 

[Surf44]

Ok, a little update is my heater is now not working. For the last couple days I was occasionally getting code 08 on start up but looked it up and said that could happen in heavy winds which I was in. It would start up on the second try, the last 2 nights I Woke up with the heater off and error 08 yesterday morning it took a couple trys to get it started and it smoked white but eventually started and ran fine. Now today after multiple try’s it will try to turn on start pumping then smoke white and eventually turn off and get error 08.

After all the good reviews on these Chinese heaters this sucks. Luckily I’m close to family so I’m not going to freeze, but now starting to think if it’s even worth it for these. If I should just fork for the espar.

 

[PeterPiper]

Unfortunately, there are some vendors who sell the returns and defects as new.
Maybe you got one.

Although the problems you are describing could also be due to tiny air leaks into the fuel lines or bad fuel lines.
I can tell you all diesel heaters are very intolerant of cheap fuel lines and air leaks. You need to purge ALL air bubbles from the lines and I do mean ALL.

I have 3 or 4 of them and they are great.
If you're ready to get rid of it I'll send you a prepaid shipping label and take it off your hands, repair it and make sure it works, then offer it to someone who needs it for just the cost of the necessary parts use to fix it and shipping to them.
It's either the controller or the remote (or both). IIRC, I do seem to recall getting one with those issues but I took care of them.

Sounds like some shady vendor may have taken advantage of you.

You won't go wrong with an Espar. Top notch.
Have you also looked into a vented propane heater or wood stove?

 

[Surf44]

Actually just got done tearing into it, I had all the lines wrapped in loom so made a little of a tear down, but I found air bubbles pumping out after the fuel pump. I replaced the rubber connector hose (I brought spare of that) and no luck still pumping air bubbles after the fuel pump.

Only thing I could imagine in the fuel pump itself is leaking air in somehow. I did get it running on full power and it is running now fine but still pumping tiny air bubbles through, I’m guessing that’s the reason for hard starts, still doesn’t make sense why I have zero controls on my controller and have not once seen my version of screen with the 3 fan blades. Mine doesn’t even fuel pump prime when holding the down and ok buttons like every other one. Also weird that it runs fine with the bubbles going through but in the middle of the night shuts off and I wake up to error 08.

 

[PeterPiper]

Get ALL the air out of the lines and out of the fuel pump.
You gotta trust me on that. It only takes ONE tiny air bubble to cause problems and that error.
The reason being is that the fuel atomization going into the burn chamber from the pump completely depends on each small pump stroke to have enough pressure to jet that drop of fuel past the screen. If there is even the tiniest air bubble, it will act as a shock absorber lowering the fuel pressure at the point it sprays into the burn chamber.

Also make absolutely sure you're not using that cheap fuel line because it will expand with every pump stroke also making the fuel pump pulse weak.

I know this because I've been there (error 08) and learning these heaters
Of course, it goes without saying that you need to have good, fresh, clean diesel fuel. (The good stuff only)

 

[hugemoth]

Actually these heaters will run on a gravity drip rather than a pump. Pulse not needed. There is a pulse absorbing device that is often used on these heaters to quiet the pump. Also the green line works fine but it's easier to kink, melt, chafe. E8 can be caused by so many things including a loose thermistor, carbon build up, gelled diesel, restricted exhaust or intake, etc..

Comparison of hard and soft fuel line:

 

[Surf44]

Get ALL the air out of the lines and out of the fuel pump.
You gotta trust me on that. It only takes ONE tiny air bubble to cause problems and that error.
The reason being is that the fuel atomization going into the burn chamber from the pump completely depends on each small pump stroke to have enough pressure to jet that drop of fuel past the screen. If there is even the tiniest air bubble, it will act as a shock absorber lowering the fuel pressure at the point it sprays into the burn chamber.

Is it possible that the fuel pump is leaking? There’s air bubbles pumping in the line after the pump not before. I replaced the rubber connector hose but still is getting air bubbles in it.

 

[PeterPiper]

Is it possible that the fuel pump is leaking? There’s air bubbles pumping in the line after the pump not before. I replaced the rubber connector hose but still is getting air bubbles in it.

It's possible.
I don't recall having any leaking pumps but yet it can happen.

I have been where you are now. Ready to give up. Sure I had done everything.
The air can be really hard to clear out once it gets in the lines.

There can be an air pocket inside the pump.

My best guess would be that you still have a small air leak on the intake side.

Pumps are not expensive. Look on the pump for the quantity, should be something like .22ml or something like that and order a replacement.
You'll want one on hand anyway. Meanwhile keep looking on the IN side for leaks.

At times I've had a hard time getting the lines sealed on the pump completely.

 

[PeterPiper]

Actually these heaters will run on a gravity drip rather than a pump. Pulse not needed. There is a pulse absorbing device that is often used on these heaters to quiet the pump. Also the green line works fine but it's easier to kink, melt, chafe. E8 can be caused by so many things including a loose thermistor, carbon build up, gelled diesel, restricted exhaust or intake, etc..

Comparison of hard and soft fuel line:

I've tried that but without much success.
It seems the pump just shoots the correct dribble into the burn chamber.

I got too much soot and fouling trying to do it that way.

YMMV

 

[hugemoth]

ve tried that but without much success.
It seems the pump just shoots the correct dribble into the burn chamber.

I got too much soot and fouling trying to do it that way.

YMMV

Yes, running a gravity feed system isn't practical in real life but the heater will run that way with constant measurement and adjustment of fuel flow. Just demonstrates that the pulse isn't necessary to squirt fuel through a jet to vaporize it like a automotive fuel injector.