Check out my new future home.

[highpsiguy]

Dark colors makes a van miserable. White is best.

 

[cygvan]

they can probably run the wires through the existing holes for the antenna...<br><br>as for mounting...theres adhesive method...or mechanical method...<br><br>this is something im currently pondering over on one of the other threads...<br><br>mechanical of course would involve drilling holes through roof to bolt down the bracket.<br><br>good to hear that you can fit a 245 watter...see if you can push it with the solarworld 270<br><br>www.wholesalesolar.com<br><br>is another great site...they have a different mix of panels which is nice if you need to get a panel of a oddball size...<br><br>i forgot about them...another good source.

 

[fredcdobbs]

cygvan, how would I go about finding someone to install? My only hope was my brother in Nevada who does a lot of tinkering with his RV but just told me he won't mess with solar. I would like to find a shop that does a lot of solar or specializes in it. I can't find anything online other than Camping World, but you have to buy their stuff to install and I don't have a lot of trust in them. If anyone has any leads in the Los Angeles area let me know. But I'll drive anywhere in the Southland to get it done, including San Diego or up north a couple hundred miles if I have to.

 

[cygvan]

i wish i could help you with that info i honestly dont know.<br><br>maybe approach an electrician?&nbsp; one thats done some solar?<br><br>you might have just stumbled upon a new business opportunity lol

 

[fredcdobbs]

Found a guy on craigslist who advertises his services installing rv solar. He said he could do my van for around $2000-$2200 including parts and labor.

 

[cygvan]

good find...<br><br>im interested to hear what exactly is included. does he provide a written estimate with parts list/model numbers etc? is that with a generator too? i wouldnt think so.<br><br>hope it works out in your favor.

 

[fredcdobbs]

We are in the talking stage right now. No generator. He gave me the option of buying some used stuff of his for $1800 which included two 200 watt 24 volt panels, 4 12v 80 amp batteries&nbsp;and a pure sine inverter (6000 watts!) which he said that that alone is worth more than the $1800. But he said I'd pretty much have to cover the entire van with solar for the 6000 inverter to be a benefit. He told me flexible panels may be an option. He said though they may not be as efficient as the hard panels, you can cover more space to make up for that and they become almost like a part of the van, as far as stealth is concerned. I love the idea of flexible but I probably will go with hard panels. My budget for this project is about 2k but I'll consider more if logic is advantageous to my needs. He said he will scout around for the best deal and have me order it then he will install. He said he can probably do it in one day. My only concern is I don't know him and just got connected to him on Craigslist, so I'm being cautious.&nbsp; <br><br>His&nbsp;classified post on Craigslist&nbsp;read:<br><br>off grid solar (ie)<br>&nbsp;I build off grid solar systems of any size. totally self contained. for any purpose. portable or on house or rv. call me *** *******. I do it almost at cost. its more of a fun hobby to me. my name is mike. <br><br>end of ad<br>I thought it&nbsp;best to delete his phone number for now but if anyone wants it you can pm me. If he works out he can be a great lead for those of you in Southern California. If he does good I'll certainly pass it on.<br><br>What do you think?

 

[Ballenxj]

Keep us informed Fred. Sounds good so far. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[cygvan]

yeah 6000 watts is way overkill...just turning it on will drain the batteries lol<br><br>the two used panels sounds cool as long as they will fit...400 watts is not too shabby<br><br>dont buy anyones used batteries...ever<br><br>sounds like his labor cost is low which is really cool if he turns out to be reliable and experienced...maybe you could consider bartering for his time so you can put more into components.<br><br>is your $2000 budget inclusive of generator? i hope not.<br><br>for 2k here is what i would look into:<br><br>1) his two 200 watt panels...cost? i would value them at $480 new (inexpensive panels range from .95 to 1.20 per watt) so lets stick with that number as worst case scenario.<br><br>2) charge controller for that wattage: Blue Sky SB3024il&nbsp; $359&nbsp; <strong>http://www.solar-electric.com/blskysbchco3.html</strong><br><br>3) combiner box for panels...this creates a shut off point for the panels as well as breakers. this one is pre-configured with wiring and breakers. $141 http://www.solar-electric.com/prpvcobo.html<br><br>4) batteries...lots of choices here...i will spec out the following: 2 Crown 6 volt 390AH&nbsp; at $273 each wired in series for 12v 390AH... $546&nbsp; <strong>http://www.solar-electric.com/cr395amdecyb.html</strong>&nbsp; you will have to maintain these batteries and 390AH is going to be a challenge for you due to your juicers so youll be charging often. extra money should be spent on batteries if you can. also, if budget allows, i would go with AGM for a bunch of reasons. wet cell as specc'd above need to be vented outside. AGM do not. the venting is extra project time and money.<br><br>5) charger...i cant say enough about my Iota...this is the IQ4 featured model (smart charge) for $137&nbsp; <strong>http://www.solar-electric.com/dls-45.html</strong> ( you can plug this into an AC outlet in your van once that wiring is done, to a regular house outlet or directly to a generator and it will properly charge your batteries fairly quickly. it also acts as a converter. so when plugged into any AC source, it provides 12v power to your 12v distribution block. any loads drawing will reduce the 45 amps for charging. so lets say you have a fridge drawing 5 amps constanly, the charger will provide 5 to that and 40 to battery charging. very nice.<br><br>6) 12v distribution block...Blue Sea 5026 ... $60 at West Marine, cheaper elsewhere... <strong>http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&amp;searchKeyword=blue+sea+5026#.UfiUaW1h_cg</strong>&nbsp;&nbsp; this is a great thing to have. you can make 12 12v runs and each is fused. it handles 100 amps max and has a max of 30 amps on each port...perfect<br><br>7) fuses ... ATC/ATO automotive fuses for the above block are dime a dozen in whichever capacity you need.&nbsp; you will need a main fuse for this block and i recommend the following:<br><br>8) MRBF ... youll need a 100amp version...$17 (may be cheaper elsewhere) <strong>http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuses/Marine_Rated_Battery_Fuses</strong>&nbsp; this attaches direct to battery terminal using this $25 (cheaper elsewhere) <strong>http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuse_Blocks/Terminal_Fuse_Blocks</strong><br><br>9) inverter...this for $625&nbsp; <strong>http://www.solar-electric.com/samlex-pure-sine-wave-inverter-pst-2000-12.html</strong>&nbsp; or this for $800&nbsp; <strong>http://www.solar-electric.com/sa2wa12vosiw.html</strong>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; personally, i like the second one because it provides a connection to wire it directly to an AC breaker panel but that me...you could certainly do just as well with the other. the second has a few other features that make it slightly better but its not really a big deal. BOTH are pure sine which in your case, i would require.<br><br>these are the basics...if you plan on plugging in at a house or rv campground that has power then you will need a way to get AC into the van.&nbsp; there are a few AC power inlet choices. from the inlet, you would use stranded 12g (at least) SJOOW and i would have it put into a flexible conduit like LiquidTite. from there go to an AC breaker panel with at least one 15 amp breaker...then one or more outlet boxes.&nbsp; this method is really great because the AC inlet allows you to also plug in your generator to power the AC side of things.&nbsp; not to forget the aforementiond residential outlet or RV campground post.&nbsp; add maybe $100 for all the AC stuff.<br><br>12v wiring price varies and depends on what you want to run but its not a bank clearer.&nbsp; the runs are small, even from the panels.<br><br>this totals to $2490-$2665 (depending on inverter) if i did the math right.&nbsp; its higher than your $2k budget but i believe with some shopping for deals you could lower it a bit.&nbsp; the components above are of good quality, recommended by AZ wind sun and i either own it or plan to.<br><br>if your budget did not include a generator, add $1000-1100 for a Honda 2000 (??) personally i like the companion model because it has a 30amp twist lock which i can connect directly to my AC inlet as i used that type of connection.<br><br>this should steer your boat around the horn...others may have better/cheaper suggestions. run this buy your guy to get a feel for it and his experience.<br><br><br><br><br><br>

 

[fredcdobbs]

I'm online now for the first time on Clear mobile&nbsp;wifi inside my van. I disconnected my cable at my apartment and now I can disconnect my cable internet access. I have to be out of my apartment by the end of August so I'm almost free. I feel like starting some type of blog or something where all my threads go to the same place. How do you go about doing that?

 

[Ballenxj]

CONGRATS on being almost free. Let us know how you like your WiFi. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>I don't know anything about starting a blog though. <br>-Bruce

 

[Patrick46]

<P>Hey...I'm more than happy to help however I can, and I've encouraged you....even the better!</P><P>For my own rig, my next one is gonna be forest green, with an off-white roof. (I like to disappear deep into the woods, and prefer boondocking on BLM land.) One of my last step-vans (my vehicle of choice) was this green, and I loved it! (my avatar) In fact, I may even do a stylized version of a camouflaged sign/paintjob on it. (I'm an artist by profession...so that's just the way I roll.) <IMG class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif"><BR>The roof will be a soft white to keep the heat down.</P><P>If I was gonna be more of an urban stealth camper, I'd paint mine a very soft light grey....like concrete. Light grey is a calming colour...that's why they paint jailcells in this colour...(or so I've been told!) <IMG class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif"><BR><BR>White just seems too loud to me. <BR><BR><BR>alas....these are just my opinions! <IMG class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/wave.gif"></P>

 

[fredcdobbs]

cygvan<br>I tried sending you a PM but I keep getting an error message, so I posted it here instead:<br><p>I appreciated your post on my thread a few days ago regarding my solar panel setup and I've put a lot of thought into it. I wanted to ask, I called Arizona Wind and Sun and after telling them about my lack of confidence in putting these on myself if need be, they suggested a kit with everything needed in it. What do you think of that? Also, I am going to buy a Honda generator. I went to a Honda generator dealer and they were very gracious to allow me to run my high powered Vitamix blender under real conditions (I actually made a smoothie there), and their amp meter showed that it went all the way up to 20 amps, so they said I would definitely need at least a 3000 watt generator. They also told me that once I decide on it they will prep a generator and allow me to run it on it, instead of just the amp meter, to be certain it will work. They also told me I could set up my Norwalk 800 watt juicer and run it also under real conditions, before I buy, because they said there is a no-return policy. I wanted the option of having the ability to run those two appliances on either generator or solar powered batteries, so my question is, if the 3000 generator does work on powering the juicers, will batteries and a 3000 watt inverter also do the same, assuming I have enough batteries in a series? Do you think that I should forgo the 3000 watt generator and go for the more manageable and portable 2000 and rely solely on batteries. I just want to make sure they would do it, that is why I was leaning toward having a 3000 watt generator backup, just in case. The juicing and blending is very critical to me and I will do whatever it takes to be able to use them. Btw, so far I have figured out I can put a 215 watt panel up there, maybe more but I would have to have someone with experience do it because some modification would be needed.<br><br>I&nbsp;want to order the&nbsp;solar stuff within the next day or two because I have to be out of my apartment by August 31 so I want to be prepared.&nbsp;<br><br>Thanks,<br>fredcdobbs</p>

 

[cygvan]

i got it. all 4 cme through ahaha...i sent a reply <img src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[fredcdobbs]

Sorry, it kept saying error. I'll read the reply.

 

[fredcdobbs]

I bought a Honda 2000 watt generator last week, have used it on my high-powered juicing and blending machines and so far it has been a god-send to me. It is a marvelous machine. As long as I don't push too hard on the produce it works flawlessly. I bought it for about $935 at Camping World after some haggling. I am now just 9 days away from making my van my home, and I am nervous but at the same time mentally ready. I looks like I will be ordering the 215 watt solar kit from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. But now I need to decide on the inverter, which the kit does not include. I am definitely going with a pure sine wave. Haven't decided between a 2000 or 3000 watt. I may want to use it with the blender since I only have it on for about 1 minute at a time. The juicer is on for about an hour and a half, so it will be used exclusively on the generator. If the inverter doesn't handle the blender at all, or the battery drain is too much, I always have the generator for it. I am confused about the need for an inverter-charger, they are so much more than just the inverter without the charger. Is there a need for the charger? If you don't have&nbsp;it, how do you charge the batteries when shore or generator connected. Do you just hook up a battery charger, like the $60 Battery Tender Plus? Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[cygvan]

hi fred...<br><br>thats awesome that the honda works out for you.&nbsp; what is the wattage of the blender? can you run it on a killawatt to see actual?<br><br>i ask because you may not need a 2000 or 3000 watt inverter...or at least you can isolate your need to a 2000 watt model. especially if that is the largest draw item you plan on using on battery.<br><br>i personally prefer a separate charger than one included on the inverter. separate chargers tend to have better componentry.<br><br>i would grab the iota 45 i mentioned. it simply plugs into any AC source (like your honda or house or campground power). get the iq4 version and you will have a charger that will properly charge any type of battery. bulk, absorption and float..<br><br>i think the battery tender is only a 1.25 amp charger whereas the iota is a 45 amp charger.&nbsp; the other benefit of the iota is that when its plugged into AC, it not only acts as a charger but also directs 12v current to your distribution block and therefore becomes a CONverter as well.<br><br>the clue is in the name battery tender...it seems to perform the last stage of charging to keep it topped off. you need an AC charging source that can charge the battery quickly form, lets say 50% DOD to full charge.

 

[fredcdobbs]

The blender is 1440 watts. I'd love to go down to even a 1500 watt inverter but I'd be right on the edge with the blender. The only other high wattage things I'd be using would be a microwave, I just ordered a 600 watt micro from Walmart, and maybe a coffeemaker, although I also just bought and used a Mr. Coffee stovetop version of it which takes about 15 minutes to make a pot. So if I get tired of it and want to go back to an electric cooffee&nbsp;maker, it would nice to have that option with the inverter. Cyg, if the 2000 Honda can handle the 1440 watt blender, would that mean that a 2000 watt inverter would also suffice? I mean, watts are watts, right? The Honda handled the blender with tremendous ease, even at startup. The only time the generator went into overload was for a split second when I really pushed down on the produce, but I was keeping an eye on the generator and when I saw the red overload light go on, I eased off and everything went good. I've only used the generator 2-3 times on these appliances so I'm still in the learning process of figuring out how much I can push it with the Honda. But so far it has been a big relief for me knowing it's taking me a lot closer to independence.<br>Btw, I'll check out the Iota right now.

 

[fredcdobbs]

Also, cyg, if the Iota acts as a converter as well, would that interfere with the old 15 amp converter that came with the van (it doesn't have charging capability)?

 

[cygvan]

2000 watt inverter sounds like it should be perfect.<br><br>the 600 watt microwave likely draws 900-1100 watts depending on manuf. so that should also be just fine providing they arent used at same time which should be no problem.<br><br>im not entirely sure how RV converters work as i dont have one and didnt really research them. i would check to see how it is installed.<br><br>what i would want to know if looking at this myself is.....<br><br>if it doesnt have a charger then it may not have a lead run to the battery unless it also acts as your RV's DC to DC distribution block. as i understand them, they take AC and convert to DC (prividing multiple fuse locations). or take DC and give you DC distribution ports. or both. with or without charging.<br><br> if it had a charger, it would have a wire run to batteries to charge them. i know for sure that you would not want two charge sources going to the batteries (solar controller being an exception) unless a system is specifically designed that way to switch between automatically. they could screw each other up.<br><br> in either case, since you mention there is no charger, i should think that it is wired in one of two ways.<br><br>either as an isolated source to run your DC devices via AC to DC conversion<br><br>or<br><br>as a switched distribution block if it also has a wire (not a charge wire) run to the battery. which in this case it can act as a) same as above plus b) a DC disctribution block when no AC is present.<br><br>see if you can get the model/serial make of your existing converter.<br><br>in either case you have some work to do to see exactly how your vehicle is wired for AC and DC. and also to determine how you want to modify to accept your new additions.<br><br>a killawatt device is a no brainer $20 expense to test AC loads. as well as a circuit tester and multimeter.<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>