CC remote meter question

[BigT]

I'd like to install a remote meter on my MorningStar SS-MPPT-15L charge controller to keep track of what's going into \ coming out of my battery and panel.  

Do I have to run a meter made by MorningStar, specifically designed for my model, or can I just pick any meter I want?
(I don't know if each company uses its own plugs or has proprietary software, etc.)  

I see MorningStar makes a meter https://www.amazon.com/Morning-Star-RM-1-Morningstar-Remote/dp/B00A6XL9QA , but from what I've read it seems it doesn't tell you how many Amps your panel is producing (I'm not sure if that's a deal breaker or not, or if it's even correct).  

The one from MorningStar also seems quite pricey compared to others I've seen, but I'm not sure if those less expensive models are compatible or not.

 

[Weight]

Why not have a battery monitor such as this; https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-battery-monitor/
My meter is mounted where I can easily see it, while the shunt is in the battery department.

 

[B and C]

No need at all to stay with the same manufacturer.  My solar charge controller is a MidNite Kid with the WhizBang Jr. Shunt system.  My shore power charger is a Progressive Dynamics 35 amp model (PD4635V).  My battery monitor is a Bogart Engineering Trimetric 2030-RV model.  I have the battery monitor placed right by my side door where I can easily see it and switch between the functions.  The shunt is buried on the other side of the van near the batteries.

 

[John61CT]

Apples and oranges.

The general coulomb-counting type is for the bank, all loads all charge sources, tries to give SoC but inaccurate.

The ones that tie into solar controllers are just for that, but Bogart Trimetric is a general one that can run two SC-2030.

For all the above you need to know Peukert coefficient, estimate current AH capacity and coulombic efficiency of your bank.

The easiest most accurate for SoC is Merlin SmartGauge, sold in NA by Balmar, but no AH counting.

Search Rod's index page of the site linked to above for "monitor" and study all three articles carefully until you get it, he's the pro on this stuff.

 

[jimindenver]

I just installed one of those meters in Ehrenberg and I seem to remember it showing amps out of the system to the battery. My remotes to my two TriStar controllers do not show amps from the panels so I have to go to MSview on my computer which shows every possible bit of info that you can imagine.

 

[John61CT]

I just installed one of those meters in Ehrenberg and I seem to remember it showing amps out of the system to the battery.

Sorry Jim, which meter?

Note the controller may display power output, but if loads are online it can't distinguish how much is actually going into the bank without working through a shunt there.

I believe the Whizbang Jr setup is as full-featured as Trimetric but not sure.

It requires the Classic, Classic Lite, or Kid controller to get full integration like Bogart does with its SC-2030s.

The huge practical advantage, if you have an expensive bank, is reliably holding Absorb using trailing amps **as measured into the bank as the actual setpoint every time**, rather than a guesstimated egg-timer.

The only real cure for premature infloatulation!

Amps from the panels would not be as valuable as a watts reading, with MPPT always manipulating voltages, right?

 

[jimindenver]

Not really John. Once you get use to your bank, usage and power coming down, you have a pretty good idea. I can tell you exactly how power is being pulled by a load by how much the amps climb on the controller when I turn the load on. The biggest issue I see with the amp meters is from people that do not understand what they are saying so by god they are going to do something and it usually is not a good thing to do.

Pay attention over time and changes in the morning resting voltage, speed of voltage drop under load or speed of voltage gain under charge can tell you a great deal about the health of your bank. The trick is knowing what to do when those changes happen just as it is when the amp meter shows the bank not accepting the amps it did when it was new. Teaching that is as important as suggesting a amp counter in the first place or it becomes useless info to a newby as their bank dies. You have to teach the complete package instead of just suggesting gear, that is if you understand it yourself.

Most those with issues out here in the real world would do better spending the money on more panel and a controller that can be set to their batteries needs before getting a fancy amp counter.

 

[Weight]

With my Victron I have no problem seeing the volts and amps from the panels. I also get all sort of other information not available with the "Smart Gauge"
What is coming in and out of the batteries and panels is the original question.

 

[jimindenver]

The last Morningstar controller I installed was the duo which did not have a port for a computer with MSview to show all of the info I can see with a TriStar.

Weight, are you at the RTR? I'd love to see and discuss your Victron system to understand how to set the ones I have seen that people have bought from Johns recommendations. I am not trying to disparage them but rather understand why it would go to a working voltage of 60 volts, putting out 9 am on a 690w system in high, bright sunlight when the batteries are at 13.1v. Those are the numbers of charging a 48 volt bank. Will the bank eventually fill? Yes but it will not be today especially if you are still using power.

 

[BigT]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.  I can honestly say I understood about 5% of what was suggested. 

Here's what I've got, and it ain't much: One, puny 75 Ah AGM battery under the hood of my van (connected to the alternator), and a single, 190 Watt monocrystalline panel. 

Between the panel and the battery I have the aforementioned charge controller and a 400 Watt inverter.  

Because my battery is so small and I have so little power to spare, I thought it would be a good idea to keep an eye on it, should I inadvertently leave something plugged in and walk away from the van.  

I don't plan on putting huge loads on the inverter, but with so few Ah in the battery, and the stories I've heard of the little battery voltage lights on the cc being vague and misleading, I just want to be safe.  

Given that I'm such a major technophobe, perhaps a simple Volt meter, plugged directly into the battery, would be a simpler option? 
(Where's the nerd smilie when you need it?)

My MorningStar controller has the little "phone jack" on the bottom.

 

[Weight]

A volt meter is a simple solution that will give you some information about your battery. There is much posted about how to use a voltmeter to help determine battery condition. At least it will show the charging voltage.
The Victron must be properly programed to be of any use. It is all in the booklet. Read that, after this;; https://marinehowto.com/programming-a-battery-monitor/
If your 48 volt bank is at 13.1 volts you have other problems. The monitor only shows what is. The controller must also be properly programed.

 

[jimindenver]

Oh no, it was a 12 volt bank running at those voltages when the bank was at 13.1v. The other four I dealt with were doing the same thing. The original person was switched to a Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 and she has not had a issue getting her bank up since.

I would still like to see a actual working Victron system.

 

[Weight]

Well I am not in the south west. My Victron does all it is advertised and I am pleased with it. The alarm setting is used by me to run a small exhaust fan in the battery compartment while charging. Trimetric also seems to have a nice monitor. It doesn't have as many parameters to program. All batteries will have a drift that must be corrected in the monitor's programing. The exception would be Smartgauge, which really only shows SOC.

 

[Mrcap]

For the budget minded you can purchase a digital battery monitor and shunt for under $50 that will give you the basic info you need to stay out of trouble with a small battery bank.

Just do a google or eBay search for ah specific like; 100ah digital battery monitor with shunt. You will see lots of options.

My 300ah monitor and shunt was $35. Not as much info but works for me.


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