Cargo conversion

[NagathaChristie]

Is your opinion on this? I have reached out to the seller. Is this a good deal? 

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/rvs/d/cargo-trailer-camper/6614424141.html

 

[Swan]

Not much info given as far as wiring 30 amp or smaller (breaker panel) . I would assume the shower is direct drain with no talk of a tank . not worth it to me but its a fair price .

 

[NagathaChristie]

That's exactly what I asked about. Waiting for reply. With that set up I could add a grey tank myself.

 

[highdesertranger]

that's a lot of money IMO. let me point out a few things,

no mention of solar or electrical system. so I assume you need to be plugged in to make anything work.
mini fridge not meant for mobile application, no way to power except when plugged in.
AC must be plugged in.
water heater not a mobile unit, no mention of fresh water tank.
square windows. these are house hold windows not meant for mobile applications. wrong type of glass and square corners. the square corners will cause stress fracture at the 90° corners.

overall I would say all the household items need to be replaced including the windows, except for the AC.

highdesertranger

 

[NagathaChristie]

The owner said:
There is basic electric ran from an extension cord to a power strip and I will include the adapter cable for regular plug to the 30amp outlet.

I haven't weighed it but the base trailer weight before I added anything was 1220lbs. If I had to guess I would say its maybe 1500lbs now. I have no problem pulling it with a mazda cx5.
No water tank, just water hose hookup for the shower, and a 5gal water jug.

The roof is insulated with 1/2 (if I remember right) foam board. Did not insulate floor or walls. Its been good enough without and didnt want to redo all of the walls at the time I built it.

 

[Rabbit]

I recently paid $3k (in Florida) for a 2008 6x10 that, minus the shower but fully insulated, was not terribly dissimilar. This is notably nicer and a bit more sophisticated (mine came with an old cube fridge, for example), but also more than double the price. IMO even at $3k I paid too much, but I was also pressed for time.

I'd say keep looking. Not worth it. Especially if you ever want to go off-grid.

 

[Presteaux!]

I've been looking. You can buy a brand new trailer that size for $3000. He does not have $3500 worth of work into that trailer. Worst case, buy brand new and then fix it up yourself--whether you're handy and do it yourself or pay somebody. You can do better.

 

[NagathaChristie]

I appreciate all of your feedback!

 

[Jewell]

Is that an aluminum trailer? If so it is close to the going price for aluminum trailer with factory RV windows in my neck of the woods. Am not impressed with the remodel and windows, but that’s just me. My 5x8 aluminum trailer with custom windows, extra 6 inches of height, insulation and every screw and nit-picky thing I put in it including a Goal Zero, 100 Watts foldable solar ran $7000.

 

[GreyWulf]

Nope I'd offer them $3, 000 take it or leave it.

 

[NagathaChristie]

After looking at a few "converted" cargo trailers in person, my husband has agreed to try to help me convert our own.  At first we will use it for weekend getaways and vacations.

We have NO skills, but we have youtube and we are good at learning things,  hahaha.

How hard is it to insulate one? What type of insulation do you recommend? do you recommend insulating the floor?

We have laid vinyl tile squares before so that is the type of flooring we will put down.

We also know that Ho-depot or Lowes will cut wood to our specs so, we are not concerned with that.

We really like how this person used file cabinets for the kitchen, thoughts?

 

[GreyWulf]

Bob has a couple videos on insulation.

 

[NagathaChristie]

Good to know, thank you.

 

[johnny b]

Insulation - Polyiso sheets. 1/2" is easiest to work with; cutting and bending. Just layer and glue (3M 77 spray) it in between the ribs. 1" in walls. 1.5" in ceiling should be plenty unless spending winters in Canada or Alaska. Insulating the floor in my opinion is optional. I would probably attach polyiso between the ribs under the trailer, to avoid building a raised floor inside...just glue your vinyl squares on the trailer floor.

Don't 'overbuild'...stay away from 2x4s and 3/4 plywood. Use 1x2s and 2x2s, 3/8" or 1/2" plywood.

File cabinets?--looks heavy.

You'll be surprised how fast weight builds up...unless you're going 'heavy duty', you want to keep it light.  Gas ain't gettin any cheaper these days and weight costs mpg.

 

[NagathaChristie]

Johnny, thanks for the reply. Hmm, I guess I was thinking the file cabinets would be lighter than wood. Do you have a suggestion for something lighter?

I found a basic aluminum bed frame that I will put the mattress on, it seems lighter than wood and sturdy.

 

[johnny b]

Aluminum sounds good...never thought of that for bed...good idea.

Some folks use the plastic drawer cabinets...Sterilite is one brand, there are others.

 

[NagathaChristie]

I wasnt sure that Sterilite would support the weight of a counter top piece of wood but I will try it. Good idea. i just watched the video of Bob insulating his van and I believe we can do that.

The trailer I am looking at comes with thin wood panels on the interior walls. I could remove them, add the insulation to the walls and then return the panels to their previous spot. They look good and we like the wood look. 

I just realized that this dealer sells the trailers with the cieling insulated. Even better!

$2560 for 6x10 V nose:
6'3" Interior Height
Steel Belted Radial Tires
Full Thermo Cool Ceiling
LED Light Package
Standard Side Door on Side

 

[kaBLOOnie Boonster]

Insulation - Polyiso sheets. 1/2" is easiest to work with; cutting and bending. Just layer and glue (3M 77 spray) it in between the ribs. 1" in walls. 1.5" in ceiling should be plenty unless spending winters in Canada or Alaska. Insulating the floor in my opinion is optional. I would probably attach polyiso between the ribs under the trailer, to avoid building a raised floor inside...just glue your vinyl squares on the trailer floor.

Don't 'overbuild'...stay away from 2x4s and 3/4 plywood. Use 1x2s and 2x2s, 3/8" or 1/2" plywood.

File cabinets?--looks heavy.

You'll be surprised how fast weight builds up...unless you're going 'heavy duty', you want to keep it light.  Gas ain't gettin any cheaper these days and weight costs mpg.

Excellent advice, Johnny B.

I would only add: I wonder why people neglect how much heat and cold come in around the leaky door and windows. But there isn't much you can do about it, except use it to motivate you NOT to get heroic about "how many inches" of insulation you plan on. These conversion posts always seem to become a pissing contest about "how many inches" my rig got, compared to Charley's.

Why bother with vinyl flooring? I just used porch paint on my cargo trailer. It has turned out good enough. Put a rubber mat down on the high traffic areas.

I agree with the advice of using Rubbermaid/Sterilite boxes/drawers.

Luann plywood and stamped metal shelving brackets make for shelves that are lightweight and easy to construct.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Ask them about also insulating the walls and what they would use, and the cost.

Also, see if they can install an RV style door instead of the standard cargo side door.

Make sure the tires are 'ST' rated radials.

Ask about the axle. Dexter EZ-Lube is one good brand. And check the capacity, 3500 pounds is standard.

 

[NagathaChristie]

This is all great info. I am taking notes.