Bus Transformation

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akrvbob said:
I also much prefer styrofoam and have used it in all my rigs. Now I only recommend Polyiso because it is R-6 per inch.

But, I think fiberglass is cheaper and that is the overriding factor for many people. There is NEVER one best way for everybody. Each of us has to take into account all the factors in his situation.
Bob

Good point about the price Bob. Maybe I was lucky, but my Styrofoam board only cost $11 per sheet, and I only used 4 sheets of it. I never priced the batts of insulation in a bag, but I would be shocked if it is a lot cheaper than what I spent. I certainly never meant to suggest my way was the only way .... or the best way ... just easiest ;) But I definitely get what you are saying to me. There is a LOT of ways to skin the cat, and to each his own for sure. I think my old life as a salesman sometimes shines through a bit strong, and I sometimes need to watch how I present things. Will do, and cheers to all !
 
clan,
your bus is done much differently than mine (hence Bobs comment). I pulled all my windows and put 4" of insulation in their place. I left the lower sheet metal on and put another 2" there. Not real difficult. R value tells the story. You get more bang for your buck with fiberglass when you compare R value between styro & fiberglass.
Where I'm at you couldn't survive the winter in a bus with all the windows left in it. The wind would freeze you out. I even put end walls in both ends. I used two rolls of 4" insulation for 4 walls at a cost of 25.00 per roll. There would have been no possible way to get the R value at that price with styro.. I did put in two Thermo pane windows on the sides too for lighting.
Working in the bus at an outside ambient temperature of 0 a 1500W electric space heater will keep it 60 in the bus. This simply couldn't be done with the original bus windows still in place. I envy you for the ambient lighting they give but completely impractical in North Dakota in the winter.
 
Simran said:
clan,
your bus is done much differently than mine (hence Bobs comment). I pulled all my windows and put 4" of insulation in their place. I left the lower sheet metal on and put another 2" there. Not real difficult. R value tells the story. You get more bang for your buck with fiberglass when you compare R value between styro & fiberglass.
Where I'm at you couldn't survive the winter in a bus with all the windows left in it. The wind would freeze you out. I even put end walls in both ends. I used two rolls of 4" insulation for 4 walls at a cost of 25.00 per roll. There would have been no possible way to get the R value at that price with styro.. I did put in two Thermo pane windows on the sides too for lighting.
Working in the bus at an outside ambient temperature of 0 a 1500W electric space heater will keep it 60 in the bus. This simply couldn't be done with the original bus windows still in place. I envy you for the ambient lighting they give but completely impractical in North Dakota in the winter.


Wow Gus ... I was definitely narrow minded there LOL. The coldest I have ever been was while in Fargo ND ! Hellish experience ... and I mean REALLY bad. So I see why you need to do it up so well. I should have read a little deeper before responding :blush:
 
Clan,
Not a problem. We all have our burdens to bear. Just depends on which one you decide to put up with. I really do envy all the stock windows in the buses. I wish I could leave them in. I think if I ever do another bus I'm going to make sure I can put more thermo pane windows in the sides or figure out some way to retain the originals some how. I like all the light.
 
To each their own- I am not at the building stage yet. But if I recall correctly the moisture is not from the outside environment but from our bodies as we sleep.

I don't mean to criticize your build; I just wanted readers to avoid what could be a costly mistake. The few extra dollars for the foam (plus a plastic moisture barrier) will serve most people well.

Good luck and keep up the steady work.
 
I'm enjoying reading about and watching your bus build. ;)
Also curious to see how you finish the curved roof?
spd2918 said:
To each their own- I am not at the building stage yet. But if I recall correctly the moisture is not from the outside environment but from our bodies as we sleep.
And condensation from the propane heater. IIRC, most of the folks here will be using propane for heat. Propane is known for producing a wet heat which creates a lot of condensation.
I also understand that proper ventilation is key to keeping condensation at bay.
BTW, I'm still in the reading about and studying stage too.
spd2918 said:
The few extra dollars for the foam (plus a plastic moisture barrier) will serve most people well.
I had not thought about the plastic barrier, but it makes sense.
 
Ballenxj said:
WOW! At $531 this one is a bit more money than a Mr Heater, probably by around $500. I guess it works well though?


Yes sir ... it is a bit pricey. But it is a lot cheaper than a quality wood burning stove, and cleaner to boot. We will be living where nights are cold, damp, humid, and needing good heat. For me it is peace of mind.

What I really want is this !! But as Yoda would say " Wealthy, I am not".


thelin-wood-stove_zpsfde80ace.jpg




.
 
If you look back on my thread you will see that I used plastic as an interior barrier to moisture. That stove is extremely cool; even though it is a little expensive..
 
Clan Graham said:
Thanks for the link. But the ONLY reason I would own a wood burning stove, is to be able to watch the fire through a glass window. If that is not an option, I would rather have the Propane set up.
You're welcome, and I understand your logic here. I used a similar wood burner for years, and I've got to tell you it was messy and sooty.
 
Ballenxj said:
You're welcome, and I understand your logic here. I used a similar wood burner for years, and I've got to tell you it was messy and sooty.

Ooo ... good to know. Messy and sooty does not sound good.
 
I like what you have done. Sauna's a great idea what is your heating? hot rocks and water? We used to heat rocks in a 55 gallon steel drum and use as needed.
 
The sauna project is an ongoing experiment. I do know that any of the commercially made sauna stoves, either gas or electric, are not recommended for as small an area as I'm using for a sauna. I had enough forthought to make the space the right width for an RV shower base if the sauna idea proves to be un-workable.
 
As an update: I've not had much time to work on the bus of late. Between the extremely cold temps, being sick :-/ and returning home one weekend I lost 3 weekends. Having the cupboard framed in I was able to start on the red oak hardwood flooring. I soon discovered how time consuming it is. It is like a huge jigsaw puzzle. There are three different kinds of pieces. Some are tongue & groove on the ends and there are those that are cut off on either end. So I'm continually trying to find the right piece that is the right length for the right spot. :dodgy: To top it all off I used a whole box of finishing nails to nail down a strip of flooring 18" X 12'!!!:huh: I ended up quitting early Saturday to run to town after 5lbs. of nails. I'm hoping that will get me nearly to the end. I'm about 1/3 the way across the floor after about 12 hours of mixing & matching pieces. Repurposing can, sometimes, be time consuming. :s I do like the results though:D
 

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Very Nice!!!!!...................brings back memories of my bus building days , its all worth it in the end!...(until you want to do it again...LOL)
 
AWESOME! I like the look of wood, and your heater placement.
 

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