Bus Transformation

[anm]

...
I then started on the end walls and partitions for the head and sauna; yes, a sauna. Much more efficient when it comes to waste IMHO. The sauna won't get used a lot but will be used in place of a shower.
...

Now I am jealous! I wonder if I can fit a sauna in my Astro?

And of your walls!

 

[PastTense]

Anyone know what happened to Simran? He last visited June 30.

 

[kevinmadison]

That's awesome bro!!

 

[66788]

Anyone know what happened to Simran? He last visited June 30.

I was wondering the same thing. He did mention earlier that he had been sick.

I do hope all is well and we hear from him soon.

 

[flailer]

Wow, incredible!

Moar! (please)

 

[Simran]

Thanks for the kudo's & concerns everyone. I've been busy as a one armed paper hanger at work all summer. I've done more upgrades on the bus but not many. When I get where there is a computer I'll update with some pics.

 

[offroad]

Simran!! Good to see you still around.

 

[Simran]

I got back from home a little early last night so began to cut down the over-the-sink cupboard I had setting in my garage for a few years without a home. I brought it out a while ago but was loath to start the project because I didn't like the depth of the cupboard and I was concerned about a great deal of head banging while working @ the counter doing dishes, cooking & what-not.
I decided to trim 4" off the back side of the cupboard. That will leave a depth of 8" which I think is sufficient for a camper. I can still put cups glasses & plates up there along with spices & whatever. You know how it is; if there is room us humans will cram something in it; it seems.
So along with the 4" trim off the back side of the cupboard I will also have to curve the sides & center support to match the curve of the bus where the ceiling meets the wall. You will see the line in one of the pics of the end wall. I have a template I initially made to trim end wall pieces. I've kept it for various other things that may need trimmed to the contour of this location near the ceiling.

 

[stude53]

Looking good, Simran!

You are so good on recycling, maybe you can use the last 4" for a medicine cabinet. :idea:

 

[KayakGirl]

Can't wait to see more of this conversion. You have done one beautiful job so far. Really, really nice Simran!

 

[RogueRV2]

Very, very, nice....nice and homey.  wood is good.  It is also adds thermal mass.  As the bus, even uncomplete, can be heated with a 1500 watt heater, you've done good!  No way a motorhome could pull that off.  I need a wood stove to crank out the heat to compensate for the lack of insulation.  Wood is not free either.

BTW, here's an inexpensive, compact, and effective saw, the next best thing to a chain saw, but nearly silent.  Note the difference in blades on the video.  Get the blade for dry wood:

 

[Simran]

After living in the bus thus far the results are in on heating it down to -15 deree's. The 1500W heater works good alone down to around +20. After said temperature down to about -5 the 950 btu kerosene heater comes into play. After the temp gets down below -5 to the coldest I've encountered this winter (-15) and probably down to - 25 or so the 1500 btu heater works well. All this should be considered with adequate ventilation.

The kerosene heaters are working well and don't cause any undo smell as long as good kerosene is used, good wicks are used and the wick is cleaned periodically. No smell whatever. I am very happy with the results. I am especially happy with the current prices of bulk kerosene :>)

One thing that I am especially pleased with the the temps. at floor level. As you may recall I sprayed 4" of closed cell foam on the under side of the bus. It has made an extraordinary difference from that of the van in sub zero temperatures. The floor has the hard wood flooring on it with a throw rug over it and it is comfortable to walk around with no shoes on. My feet were always cold in the van in sub zero temps.

Thanks for reading.

 

[RogueRV2]

It very good to get your experience. Yes, I'm tired of the cold floor. Heat rises! I found a fan, pointed toward the opposite end of the place, circulates the heat much more evenly, therefore the stove does not have to be run as hot and is much more efficient. It might be worthwhile to try the quieter computer fans, here and there.

I would prefer a bus conversion, but my budget is very tight, and the relatively poorly built MH was cheap in comparison. Good enough to get me down the road for now...

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

At the risk of being flamed unmercifully, I'm going to state a fact.  Heat DOES NOT rise.  The law of heat conduction (fourier's law) is the same as ohm's law for electrical conduction.  Instead of voltage you have temperature difference.  Hot air is less dense than cold air, so hot air will rise.  But, if you heat a vertical pipe at the top, the bottom of the pipe will get hot.

Gus, I'm curious.  Did you do anything to insulate the TOP of the bus (on the outside of the bus)?  Does snow accumulate on top of the bus, or does it melt?  If the snow accumulates on top, ignore this post!  However, if the snow on top of the bus melts, you're losing heat.  I suspect that duct taping some cheap bubble wrap to the top of the bus will insulate it well enough to allow snow to accumulate, which will insulate it much more.  

The bus is warm compared to the outside air.  It's a giant radiator.  You've insulated the bottom.  If the top were to be insulated, the effective area of the radiator will be reduced by at least 25%, which will reduce your heat usage by 25%.  At least that's my theory.  Of course it assumes no air is leaking anywhere, which is not the case.

I'm really enjoying your thread, it's quite educational as well as entertaining!

 

[Simran]

Bruce,
About your questions about the top of the bus: thus far I've done nothing to the top or inside ceiling of the bus. My observations are thus; snow DOES accumulate on the top of the bus everywhere EXCEPT where the cross ribs are the make up the structure of the ceiling. If you think about it it is easily understandable why. will I address this problem? I'm not sure yet. I could go back, easily, and take off the top board the length of the buson, drill a hole in each rib and attempt to fill the ribs with foam. My initial plan was to insulate the ceiling with an inch of styro; then sheet the ceiling with something. I'm really leaning toward doing nothing because I like the headroom. I'm tall enough that it will get iffy if'n I insulate the ceiling and sheet it. I'm torn.

Thanks

 

[RogueRV2]

Well given Fourier's Law, how come then are my ears are always warmer than my toes?  Good point... 

The ceiling looks good and is probably insulated somewhat.  The ribs are conducting the heat. (I'm watching my terms!)  Filling them with foam would do little.  Using Bob's favorite foam board would add R-6, and do a lot to help, but it would be work to get that ceiling looking good as it looks now.  Aesthetics are important too, and it does seem it that it is not too difficult to heat.  Because I'm lower to the ground than most folks and may need to cut wood to stay warm, I'm considering adding some of that R-6 foam board. 


73's

 

[Simran]

I know this bus has the "winter kit" as the first two windows on either side behind the driver are thermopane safety glass from the factory. The winter kit always includes ceiling insulation; to a certain degree.

 

[compassrose]

... drill a hole in each rib and attempt to fill the ribs with foam. My initial plan was to insulate the ceiling with an inch of styro; then sheet the ceiling with something. I'm really leaning toward doing nothing because I like the headroom. I'm tall enough that it will get iffy if'n I insulate the ceiling and sheet it. I'm torn.

Thanks

DO NOT try to fill the ribs with foam. It won't work. Tried that with the Eagle. You need a thermal break at each rib. I have a poly type moulding at the rib and it seems to be working. At least well enough that I will be covering all the interior ceiling rivets (thermal bridge) the same way, then covering the metal ceiling with anaglypta. I'm running out of time to get this done before I leave NM. The "side" strips are simply the same size as the top /final strip (lattice) but they were split down the center with a sharp razor knife and staggered to create an Art Deco Waterfall style trim moulding.
   



 As for your roof insulation, you may want to look into what George Myers did to his coach. This is what I will do if I find I need more insulation in the ceiling. You can buy the expanded Notes as well.

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

I suspect that duct taping a strip of bubble wrap over each rib on the outside of the bus will do the trick. 

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VL7S06?psc=1

Cost about $20.  Office depot or office max ought to have something similar.

 

[Simran]

Compassrose,
I've seen some good ideas come from your side of the fence and this one is no exception. That looks good, serves a purpose and is down right clever. I like the way it looks too.