So my caliper slide pins (the ones with the little rubber boots attached that you lube up) have gotten kind of crusty and sticky on account of a couple boots ripping. I was wondering if it was possible to remove the caliper slide pins alone and lube them and install boots while leaving brakes in place. I know...non conventional approach but wheels tightened to 200 ftlbs and don't have jack stands to prop up vehicle while wheel is off....I know, I know....get the right tools but I'm traveling with very limited space and gotta keep room for the beer. Thanks for any insights!
Brake caliper slide bolts
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highdesertranger
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impossible to say without knowing what type of vehicle we are talking about. but with most 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton vehicles the answer would be yes. most 1 tons, no. some will be hard to remove but not impossible, do one bolt at a time. highdesertranger
Link to picture....looks like hex head would just unscrew and bolt would slide out allowing me to lube and fix boot? It's definitely a one ton truck....gvwr 12500.
Caliper Slide pin picture
Caliper Slide pin picture
B and C
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And add year, make.Spicyguy said:
highest_vision
Well-known member
When I click on that link, it says no picture found. I agree, we need vehicle info.
Unless you can clean up the entire slide area including the pin and the bore, you will likely be wasting time. It usually isn't just that they need lubricant, it's what gets in there that causes the problems. Dirt, rust, brake dust. It builds up in that bore. But thankfully, unless the rust is really bad or the dust/grease goo is really baked on, the bores and pins can be dealt with! I use a round metal brush of the appropriate diameter and a nasty chemical solvent. Also available are more aggressive tools to cut material, but they require power tools.
Unless you can clean up the entire slide area including the pin and the bore, you will likely be wasting time. It usually isn't just that they need lubricant, it's what gets in there that causes the problems. Dirt, rust, brake dust. It builds up in that bore. But thankfully, unless the rust is really bad or the dust/grease goo is really baked on, the bores and pins can be dealt with! I use a round metal brush of the appropriate diameter and a nasty chemical solvent. Also available are more aggressive tools to cut material, but they require power tools.
It may be very difficult to slide the pin out if it is sticking. I would try spraying penetrating oil into the end of the boot until you can remove the wheel, and lubricate with grease properly. This must be a FORD, they are known for this problem.
It's a step van on a workhorse w42 chassis. The brakes are brembo 62mm I believe....that's the Piston size I assume.
Here is actual link
https://pasteboard.co/IRjHk1v.jpg
Here is actual link
https://pasteboard.co/IRjHk1v.jpg
Well here we are 24 hrs later, borrow a floor jack, wheel brace and blocks of wood.
It wouldn't be a very good solution not taking the wheel off so it will save you a lot of time just simply getting the wheel off, unbolting the calliper from the disc, pulling the sliding pins and emery paper them / oil / grease them, replace boots hold piston in with another smaller piece of timber as piston will usually want to close up the gap left after removal of calliper. (A large G clamp is great for this) Helps to leave master cylinder hydraulic cap off while doing this.
Might as well check brake pad wear while its all off but do both sides if they need replacement.
Get all the parts you need first of course doesn't hurt having spare pads if they don't need replacement now.
It wouldn't be a very good solution not taking the wheel off so it will save you a lot of time just simply getting the wheel off, unbolting the calliper from the disc, pulling the sliding pins and emery paper them / oil / grease them, replace boots hold piston in with another smaller piece of timber as piston will usually want to close up the gap left after removal of calliper. (A large G clamp is great for this) Helps to leave master cylinder hydraulic cap off while doing this.
Might as well check brake pad wear while its all off but do both sides if they need replacement.
Get all the parts you need first of course doesn't hurt having spare pads if they don't need replacement now.
highest_vision
Well-known member
I see the pic now; I think I couldn't see it earlier because of a problem on my end. My apologies!
I cannot say from the picture if you can pull the pin. The problem you may run in to is that many pins have a flange on the inside of the caliper, like in this caliper on ebay for a lighter duty version of your van. How do you know the slides pins are the issue? What is happening? Maybe just PM, that's good, too
I think you will end up needed to remove those wheels, though...
I cannot say from the picture if you can pull the pin. The problem you may run in to is that many pins have a flange on the inside of the caliper, like in this caliper on ebay for a lighter duty version of your van. How do you know the slides pins are the issue? What is happening? Maybe just PM, that's good, too
I think you will end up needed to remove those wheels, though...
highdesertranger
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from the pic it appears that you can remove them. remember one at a time.
off subject question, don't you ever remove your wheels? what happens if you get a flat?
highdesertranger
off subject question, don't you ever remove your wheels? what happens if you get a flat?
highdesertranger
Havent run into the need yet. I got that good Sam's insurance in case it does. I don't really have room on board for a spare 19.5 inch tire and wheel, jack, jack stands and the leverage to loosen the wheels. I have a compressor and tire repair kit that might get me by in a pinch. Do most vandwellers carry all those tools? Where do they stow all of them?
^
Yeah, I carry all that stuff but I don't have to deal with loosening high-torque lugnuts like on duals,so I can see your point. It's bad enough on my half-ton because tire shops seem to always over-torque. I do most maintenance and repairs myself and like to periodically look at the brakes,frontend,etc. Also like saving money.
BTW: have you checked with shops on what they would charge to inspect and lube the slide bolts?
Yeah, I carry all that stuff but I don't have to deal with loosening high-torque lugnuts like on duals,so I can see your point. It's bad enough on my half-ton because tire shops seem to always over-torque. I do most maintenance and repairs myself and like to periodically look at the brakes,frontend,etc. Also like saving money.
BTW: have you checked with shops on what they would charge to inspect and lube the slide bolts?
B and C
Well-known member
I carry it all. My spare is on the front and I have a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with the correct sized socket. I was really glad to have this when I was in northern canada traveling to alaska. The tools don't take up very much room, it's the spare. Find a place to hang the spare.
Yep, carry spares and gear to repair.
NB... With rear duals if you have a flat, you can usually run with one flat until you make it to a shop anyway.
Though I've changed out rears, a good breaker bar for the steers is more important to me and remembering the left hand thread on the LHS wheel nuts and hubs.
NB... With rear duals if you have a flat, you can usually run with one flat until you make it to a shop anyway.
Though I've changed out rears, a good breaker bar for the steers is more important to me and remembering the left hand thread on the LHS wheel nuts and hubs.
B and C
Well-known member
If you have left hand threaded studs, the studs used to be stamped with an "L" in the unthreaded portion (on the end).
Yep, but do you think half the mechanics remember that, most don't look and attack with a rattle gun.
In fact I have one truck the same model which the studs (complete stub axle assembly) had been put on wrong from one side to the other, sometimes I need to look to remember which truck I'm working on.
In fact I have one truck the same model which the studs (complete stub axle assembly) had been put on wrong from one side to the other, sometimes I need to look to remember which truck I'm working on.
highdesertranger
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I can't imagine not having the tools and at least one spare to change a flat. I carry 2 spares of course if you are on pavement all the time there is really no need for two spares. but to not have one spare then you are at the mercy of someone else and I like to have a say in my destiny. highdesertranger
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