Best engine/chassis combo for diy mechanic?

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LeslieTX

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[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]After much consideration, I've decided to go with a Class C. I'm on a budget and am beginning to look for an older fixer upper. I'm not a total gear head, but consider myself fairly handy and a decent shade tree mechanic. I've managed to get my 1995 Jeep GC to 237K miles and still passing emissions! I've never done a complete tear down, but be willing to give it a try. I'm going to try to change AC clutch coil on 2011 Honda Civic, but that a tiny space to work in![/font][font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/font]
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[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I know asking Ford vs Chevy opens a can of worms, as everyone has their opinion on which is better. I'm not married to either; but was leaning towards the Ford, but have been reading about spark plug problems. I'm looking for recommendations based on:[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Availability of parts[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Ease of access and simple to work on reliable engine/transmission.[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3. Rugged design and ability to maintain chassis.[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4. A metal framed coach would be my first choice, but not a deal breaker.[/font]


[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]My absolute max for initial purchase is 10K, hoping to get something tha runs and is mostly livable. I'll have to pays as I  go for repairs. restoration, as funds become available.[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Thanks[/font]
 
If I were spending my own money, I'd go with a Chevy / GMC, I know lots of Ford guys who love their fords, but with the exception of my Ranger, I've always had better luck with GM products
I think Lazy days have metal framing, but don't quote me on that, as I'm no RV expert
They are expensive though. from what I hear
Others will have more in depth knowledge
 
I vote Chevy. to me i's a no brainer. I own both a Ford and a Chevy. highdesertranger
 
Chevy because money wise your not gonna find new factory parts for less. Still gonna have problems just cheaper to fix. I personally would want a truck rather than van front end just for better access but they are expensive.
 
had both prefer chevy. a small block chevy and a 350/400/700R4 trans? everywhere.
 
+4 on a GM chassis... The TBI engines are still sorta user friendly. I'd be most concerned with the automatic trans on a heavy rig that's had unknown care.

Happy hunting, Vern
 
There are a LOT more Fords out there in used RV land.  My counsel would be to buy the best coach for the money you have to spend... if the coach falls apart in a couple of years, it really doesn't make any difference what chassis it was on.  The bottom line is that each chassis has its issues, they're just different issues.  My B-van is a '95 e250 and has the 351W/4EOD trans setup... pretty reliable and not too onerous to maintain.  Don't let the Ford Triton plug issue scare you off an otherwise "really good" deal.  

Frankly, coach construction is a lot more of a consideration in the longevity of the rig than the chassis.  I'm a "Born Free Motorcoach" guy because there are '70s vintage units out there still in regular use by folks, and literally if they haven't been wrecked pretty much every coach still built by them since '95 is still out there in regular use.  You won't find many of any other brand out there still in service, regardless of chassis.  The coaches are just THAT well built.  I had an '01 23' on a Ford chassis and now have an '06 on a Kodiak chassis.  The really killer thing about Born Free is that the older coaches can be had quite reasonably, despite that they were huge dollars new.
 
There's no easy access on as van nose anything.


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My personal experience shows there is no difference between the makes, they all can become a nightmare when 15-20 years or older. I’ve owned three motor homes in my life, 2 class ‘C’s’ and 1 class ‘A’. The best one was a class ‘C’ on a Dodge chassis unfortunately Dodge stopped offing their chassis to the RV manufacturers. The other two were Fords with the 460 engines and C-6 transmissions. The engine and transmission never failed but every other thing attached to them did. Radiators, u-joints, warped exhaust manifolds, cruise controls, Onan generators, dash air, roof air, refrigerators, water heaters, plumbing lines become brittle and leaked, off course unseen dry rotted tires at $1,000 a set and my favorite ROOF WATER LEAKS resulting in structure damage.
 
My neighbor just 3 months ago bought a sweet 1985 Chevy class ‘C’ 22 foot with the 350 V-8 and paid $4,500 for it. The owner said he had the engine replaced/rebuilt a couple years prior and the tires looked great. First trip out and the tire tread began to peel off. New set of 16.5 inch tires was just over $1,000, then the radiator and oil cooler had to be replaced and off course a leaking roof all but destroyed the wall at the rear of the coach. To date he has spent $5,000+ on it. Then as of last month he finds he needs a new transmission, don’t know what that will cost but it wouldn’t be unusual for another $2,000!
 
Hopefully, you can find a one owner and one that has never towed a car along with tires no more than 5 years old. If so you may dodge a lot of bullets in the future. Don’t mean to be doom and gloom but most of us have been there with older coaches.
 
Good luck to you,
Mike
 
an 85 Chevy should have a t-400 trans. nowhere near 2k for a rebuild. highdesertranger
 
In my experience, The make and model of cab chassis the RV is based on is alot less of an issue then the often times less-then-stellar-coachwork of the RV bits. I've been thinking about upgrading from my Ford class-B to a class C lately, and I'm really homing in on Laze-Dayz coachworks.

Some engines are better then others. I love the Dodge 360, Ford 302/351. Chevy 350 is a good one too. If you get an RV with a Dodge 360 and A727.. Nearly bullet proof. My class B is powered by a Ford 302 and AOD.. Its pretty solid although I wish it was a C6. The Chevy 350 and T400 is also nearly bullet proof. also, if you want to learn how to work on engines, you really cant go wrong with the older small block engines. They feature EZ to get to components, EZ to find parts, No special tools...

Oh yeah, if you go Dodge.. If its got a 4bbL carb from the mid 70's onwards... Be prepared to drink excessively as your threshold of frustration to utter madness gets lowered.. alot. Go Q-jet....
 
Go q-jet to avoid frustration....Now that's funny
 
On a q-jet you just need to know where to put the JB Weld. Warped plastic is more difficult.
 
bardo said:
Go q-jet to avoid frustration....Now that's funny

I know huh... Recommending a Quardra-jet to save frustration.. haha
 
well at least a Q-jet is not a Chrysler thermo Quad or a Ford variable venture. highdesertranger
 
the one that is not rusty,rotten and runs
 
Gary68,

Your avatar is Graham Hill? Neat.

A BRM, no doubt.
 
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