Best engine/chassis combo for diy mechanic?
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LeaveBehindTheDailyGrind
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For lowest cost/highest parts availability G30 chassis with 86+ center bolt valve cover sbc/th400. You could keep it going forever on a beer budget with parts from craigslist and pick n pull anywhere in the US.
Whatever you are comfortable with. You can never go wrong with a van.
The maintenance you perform will be the deciding factor.
U-haul use's mainly Fords and run them to death and resell's them again.
Some people never do any maintenance at all. Those are the ones on the side of the road with the hoods up.
Before you change one cosmetic thing, do the mechanical maintenance first.
The post with people worried about gas mileage crack me up.
Why worry about it if you are going to add 2000 pounds of crap converting it into a house?
Travel light, do the maintenance and enjoy the scenery and do it as cheaply as possible.
The maintenance you perform will be the deciding factor.
U-haul use's mainly Fords and run them to death and resell's them again.
Some people never do any maintenance at all. Those are the ones on the side of the road with the hoods up.
Before you change one cosmetic thing, do the mechanical maintenance first.
The post with people worried about gas mileage crack me up.
Why worry about it if you are going to add 2000 pounds of crap converting it into a house?
Travel light, do the maintenance and enjoy the scenery and do it as cheaply as possible.
user 37446
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+1 on Alcatraz's post - maintenance first, looks don't matter if you are broken down...
The best van to have is usually the one you've got. With very few exceptions, I usually traded one set of known problems for a different set of unknown problems when I got tired of my last vehicle. Often I sold the rig that I'd have wanted to by (maintenance-wise).
Gas mileage makes very little difference. One of the thirstiest engines is the v-10 ford or the earlier 460's, yet they will still get you about 10-12 city and 14-16 highway. Depending on how much you drive, the difference between 12 mpg and 18 mpg isn't all that much...
10,000 city miles a year divided by 12mpg = 833 gallons x 2.50 = $2083
10,000 city miles a year divided by 16mpg = 625 gallons x 2.50 = $1562
That's a difference of $521 a year, which is about $45 a month. Hardly enough to worry about, so you can afford a less efficient gas motor that runs well. When you are purchasing a 20 yr old van, that's not the main issue.
The best van to have is usually the one you've got. With very few exceptions, I usually traded one set of known problems for a different set of unknown problems when I got tired of my last vehicle. Often I sold the rig that I'd have wanted to by (maintenance-wise).
Gas mileage makes very little difference. One of the thirstiest engines is the v-10 ford or the earlier 460's, yet they will still get you about 10-12 city and 14-16 highway. Depending on how much you drive, the difference between 12 mpg and 18 mpg isn't all that much...
10,000 city miles a year divided by 12mpg = 833 gallons x 2.50 = $2083
10,000 city miles a year divided by 16mpg = 625 gallons x 2.50 = $1562
That's a difference of $521 a year, which is about $45 a month. Hardly enough to worry about, so you can afford a less efficient gas motor that runs well. When you are purchasing a 20 yr old van, that's not the main issue.
steamjam1
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LeaveBehindTheDailyGrind said:
I agree with that. When it comes to Chevy Dodge Ford vans, you can go any junk yard in the USA and you have a better then good chance you'll see a dozen junkers to pluck parts from. I personally think that Ford is THE easiest to get parts for, followed by the Dodge, then Chevy. But on the flip side the Dodge is the EASIEST to work on.
My only gripe of Dodge (older ones) is that Thermal-quad 4V carburetor. Ive downgraded 5.9L dodge engines with 4bbl to Ford Motorcraft 2BBL even if it meant a loss of power for drive-ability and reliability.
highdesertranger
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I have to respectfully disagree.
first off if a Dodge Thermal-quad is junk(which it is) then the Ford Variable Venturi carb is worse than junk.
in my opinion the best, easiest to work on, best parts availability, best parts interchange ability is 67-87 Chevy truck.
with a Chevy any engine can be bolted into any vehicle without any modification and will bolt up to any transmission.
likewise any transmission can be bolted up to any engine. drive shaft length may change.
any combinations of axles will bolt right in.
any transfer case will bolt right in.
Chevy sold many trucks to the military the parts and trucks are widely available.
the Chevy 6.2/6.5 diesel and T-400 trans is what is used in the Humvee, all parts are available and still in production. think about it, an engine and trans from 1982 is still in production.
Chevy has by far the best aftermarket parts support.
you can get stock reproduction or upgraded reproduction parts at many different suppliers.
upgraded engine and driveline parts are by far the cheapest of any of the big three.
90% of all antique restoration that put a modern v-8 in use a Chevy motor.
Chevy's have a huge presence in the marine engine market.
a brand new Chevy truck windshield can be had for 125 bucks. last time I bought one it was under 150 bucks installed.
I could go on and on but I can buy every nut and bolt for my 40 year old Chevy. at this time the only parts that are not available is a complete frame(I have seen each side rail sold separately) and a whole cab.
to me it's a no brainer. highdesertranger
first off if a Dodge Thermal-quad is junk(which it is) then the Ford Variable Venturi carb is worse than junk.
in my opinion the best, easiest to work on, best parts availability, best parts interchange ability is 67-87 Chevy truck.
with a Chevy any engine can be bolted into any vehicle without any modification and will bolt up to any transmission.
likewise any transmission can be bolted up to any engine. drive shaft length may change.
any combinations of axles will bolt right in.
any transfer case will bolt right in.
Chevy sold many trucks to the military the parts and trucks are widely available.
the Chevy 6.2/6.5 diesel and T-400 trans is what is used in the Humvee, all parts are available and still in production. think about it, an engine and trans from 1982 is still in production.
Chevy has by far the best aftermarket parts support.
you can get stock reproduction or upgraded reproduction parts at many different suppliers.
upgraded engine and driveline parts are by far the cheapest of any of the big three.
90% of all antique restoration that put a modern v-8 in use a Chevy motor.
Chevy's have a huge presence in the marine engine market.
a brand new Chevy truck windshield can be had for 125 bucks. last time I bought one it was under 150 bucks installed.
I could go on and on but I can buy every nut and bolt for my 40 year old Chevy. at this time the only parts that are not available is a complete frame(I have seen each side rail sold separately) and a whole cab.
to me it's a no brainer. highdesertranger
when i get mine I'm going chevy 350 c20 hopefully 80s early 90s,,,,i used to have a 76 c20 van that every time i replaced parts i did them w/lifetime guaranteed parts. the last 175,000 mi. it didn't cost a thing,,,except when i replaced my 350 turbo tranny,,,,which i got from transmissions to go for $395.00 installed. i loved that van,,,dang GM rust outs. when it finally fell apart it had about 380,000 miles,,i lived in missouri then,,and didn't know about the fiberglass ins. disintegrating and falling down behind the paneling and plugging up the weep holes. will NEVER use f/glass again.
highdesertranger
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no, stay away from the 400ci small block. the center bolt valve cover where introduce in 1987. there were some other changes to those blocks like the way the intake bolts on and the lifter collars as some came with taller roller lifters. I really don't see them as being better in fact I would prefer an older set up. that's when they started light weighting everything. highdesertranger
ArtW
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I don't think the "center bolt valve cover sbc/TH400" meant the 400 small block, HDR, I think it meant "center bolt valve cover small block Chevy with TH 400 transmission"
And I agree, the one SBC I don't like is the 400. everyone I ever drove was a guytless pig with a cooling problem, 350s rule in the Chevy world
And I agree, the one SBC I don't like is the 400. everyone I ever drove was a guytless pig with a cooling problem, 350s rule in the Chevy world
steamjam1
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highdesertranger:
No arguments there on the Ford VVC. Garbage. I used the Motorcraft 2150 2V to replace either the Thermal-Quad, or just as horrible the Carter BBD.
When it comes to parts interchange, I'd say Chevy and Dodge are the same. You can stick a T700R4 into a 1975 Chevy van just as easily as you can stick a 46RH into a 1975 Dodge van. You can throw in a 1999 magnum 5.2 into your 1964 Dodge Dart just as easily as a 1990's vette motor into your 1969 Impala with little hassle. A dana-44 is a dana-44 no matter if its a Chevy, dodge, or even Ford. Same for Dana 60's.
When it comes to aftermarket support, again its about the same for all three American brands. I can just as easily buy an aftermarket dizzy, 4V intake and headers for my Dodge as a Chevy, or Ford. I can get an LSD for the rear of my Ford 9" just as fast and easily as for my Dodge dana 60, or Chevy 14bolt.
IMHO, it all comes down to the quality of the chassis. I think Ford has got it down with the full frame. I see the point with uni-chassis, but in my experience the Ford rides better, and is stronger then others, albeit it does squeak more when your flex'in her.... AND the Ford is alot easier to convert to 4x4... (More on that later.)
No arguments there on the Ford VVC. Garbage. I used the Motorcraft 2150 2V to replace either the Thermal-Quad, or just as horrible the Carter BBD.
When it comes to parts interchange, I'd say Chevy and Dodge are the same. You can stick a T700R4 into a 1975 Chevy van just as easily as you can stick a 46RH into a 1975 Dodge van. You can throw in a 1999 magnum 5.2 into your 1964 Dodge Dart just as easily as a 1990's vette motor into your 1969 Impala with little hassle. A dana-44 is a dana-44 no matter if its a Chevy, dodge, or even Ford. Same for Dana 60's.
When it comes to aftermarket support, again its about the same for all three American brands. I can just as easily buy an aftermarket dizzy, 4V intake and headers for my Dodge as a Chevy, or Ford. I can get an LSD for the rear of my Ford 9" just as fast and easily as for my Dodge dana 60, or Chevy 14bolt.
IMHO, it all comes down to the quality of the chassis. I think Ford has got it down with the full frame. I see the point with uni-chassis, but in my experience the Ford rides better, and is stronger then others, albeit it does squeak more when your flex'in her.... AND the Ford is alot easier to convert to 4x4... (More on that later.)
steamjam1
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Gary68 said:
As I recall, the Chevy 400 small block features a "siamesed cylinder" engine block. As far as I can remember, this lead to the blocks being prone to cracking between the cylinders. I don't do alot of Chevy, and I really haven't for decades.
