Battery Not Charging From Solar

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
matrixdutch said:
Yes, it used to float around 13 & 14 when the battery was close to being full, or full.  

I unplugged the panels and the battery, then reconnected.  Still the same.  Panels read 16.3 volts coming in.  Battery charging at 3.5 volts, and reading at 11.8 v

Check the connections by hand,  Sometimes they look right, but are not 100% connected.

90% of problems are caused by ground.
 
Amps and volts can be a product of the time of day. It's high noon on the east coast and the numbers would be off. It's mid morning on the west coast and the sun is low to the panels. I would expect lower numbers. It has raised the voltage by .03 however, so something is happening.

If the controller is working, it would be able to do more especially early were you to switch to series with the panels.
 
GotSmart said:
Check the connections by hand,  Sometimes they look right, but are not 100% connected.

90% of problems are caused by ground.


I think you're right.  I disconnected the negative battery wire from the controller side, and it's floating at 14, and the SOC is reading 100%.  Battery light on the controller is flashing green signifying  battery is full as welll.  Not sure what this all means
 
jimindenver said:
What are the loads? What drained the battery?


I think it was my fridge and fan.  I will have to look up the specs again
 
matrixdutch said:
I think you're right.  I disconnected the negative battery wire from the controller side, and it's floating at 14, and the SOC is reading 100%.  Battery light on the controller is flashing green signifying  battery is full as welll.  Not sure what this all means

Never disconnect the battery while the panels are connected. It can damage the controller.
 
The solar panels negative wires must not goto ground before the solar controller.if it does.it will not work properly.

Make sure cables to controller have not chafed on roof pass through.
 
I haven't played with 12v panels yet. What's the expected peak of a 100w panel mounted flat?
 
SternWake said:
The solar panels negative wires must not goto ground before the solar controller.if it does.it will not work properly.

Make sure cables to controller have not chafed on roof pass through.

I will check the cables to the controller.  Thanks
 
that's why I asked if you connected the battery first. your controller is probably fried. it states in the Renogy instructions not to have the solar feed the controller with no battery connected. this means forever, never disconnect the battery when the solar input is hot. sorry to be the bearer of bad news. highdesertranger
 
Renogy has the cheap wire clamping system.  Wires coming in or out get loose.  Those boxes can handle 14 volts in forms likely to be produced. They chose a decent electrical format.  If the board is fried, it is caused by the defective clamping system. They reset when disconnected for a while. Tomorrow we hear"The rest of the story!"
 
Battery still not charging. Not sure if I feel comfortable troubleshooting this issue after doing some research. Are there places I can bring this to to help? I'm in Michigan, but am willing to travel to other states.

Thanks
 
Spend $40 or so on an electrical tester.  They come with a book that tells you how to do the readings.  (I have seen them as low as $15) 

Turn switch to 12V 

Touch leads to contact points. 

This will tell you where the power is getting lost.
 
Hey all! So I picked up a multimeter like everyone suggested. A Renogy tech helped, and we determined that the panels and controller are fine. I had the battery checked and it's reading low at 11.8v. Renogy is asking me to charge battery up to full with either shore power or generator so he can determine whether the battery is discharging too much.. I'm on the road so I have neither.

Can someone suggest how I should go about this?

Stores around me:

Walmart
Lowe's
Home depot
West Marine
 
Do you have jumper cables that can reach both batteries?

Even a junkie 10 awg pair should be able to get upg battery voltage to high 12 s in an hour or 2 of idling.

If this battery has lived its life at 50% or less charged since new, it could be done. It might also have shorted cell if voltage drops to ~ 10.5 with solar controller removed
 
matrixdutch said:
Hey all!  So I picked up a multimeter like everyone suggested.  A Renogy tech helped, and we determined that the panels and controller are fine.  I had the battery checked and it's reading low at 11.8v.  Renogy is asking me to charge  battery up to full with either shore power or generator so he can determine whether the battery is discharging too much..  I'm on the road so I have neither.  

Can someone suggest how I should go about this?

Stores around me:

Walmart
Lowe's
Home depot
West Marine

SternWake said:
Do you have jumper cables that can reach both batteries?

Even a junkie 10 awg pair should be able to get upg battery  voltage to high 12 s in an hour or 2 of idling.

If this battery has lived its life at 50% or less charged since new,  it could be done.  It might also have shorted cell if voltage drops to ~ 10.5 with solar  controller removed

I see, thanks.  Should I ground the negative, or just clamp positive to positive, and negative to negative.
 
yes just hook + to + and -to -. a mechanic shop or a lot of auto parts stores will charge it up some for free. that way you don't have to sit there with the engine running for hours. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
yes just hook + to + and -to -.  a mechanic shop or a lot of auto parts stores will charge it up some for free.  that way you don't have to sit there with the engine running for hours.  highdesertranger

Thanks.  I found an autozone that charges deep cycle batteries overnight
 
Top