Battery Monitor

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This monitor is one of the cheaper I've found, it has good reviews. Cheap doesn't always work though, does anyone have experience using this monitor or this brand in general (Bayite)?  Suggestions on a better monitor to purchase?

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-1...UTF8&qid=1527265603&sr=8-5&keywords=Trimetric

I have ordered these components, waiting for them to arrive. 
Will I need anything else, other than cables and fuses?

100 watt solar suitcase renogy
12 volt 100 ah agm battery renogy
30 amp scc pwm renogywanderer 
Blue sea ACR Relay - (this seems a bit expensive and excessive, but I'm unsure)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VIXLRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Anything I'm missing here to complete the system? 
I am new to this and know nothing of auto electrical.  Thanks for any responses.
 
This is an AH counting meter, not what I call a battery monitor which requires a much more complex algorithm to estimate State of Charge percentage.

But cheap and excellent for approximating usage or a charge source's contribution.

The most accurate and easiest to use BM for SoC is Merlin/Balmar SmartGauge, but no AH-counting.

Less accurate for SoC but excellent for AH counting is Victron BMV series, I like the new 712 model with built in remote dongle functionality.

Both are expensive.
 
See the Blue Sea site for their less expensive model #s, depending on ampacity and features you need.

But if you can afford the ML one at 500A they're indestructible, pass it on to your grandkids

Pksys and Hodges marine have good pricing, or check eBay.

The discontinued 7600 has current limiting to 60A, great feature for keeping wire gauge reasonable over long distances, also protecting your alt from getting overheated.
 
John61CT said:
This is an AH counting meter, not what I call a battery monitor which requires a much more complex algorithm to estimate State of Charge percentage.

Thank you! That explains why is is so cheap in comparison.


The most accurate and easiest to use BM for SoC is Merlin/Balmar SmartGauge, but no AH-counting.
Both are expensive.

Expensive is right: $300

https://www.amazon.com/Spartguage-B...=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Merlin+Balmar+Smart+Gauge


I've heard good things about Blue Sky - this one is $200, still expensive for me, opinions?
I thought the most expensive component would be the battery or solar panel, so I simply wasn't ready to spend so much on a monitor, which some people don't even have.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sky-Ene...8581&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sky+battery+monitor
 
John61CT said:
See the Blue Sea site for their less expensive model #s, depending on ampacity and features you need.

The problem is that I don't even know what features or ampacity I need. I really just need to make sure I don't take the battery down below 50%, the other stuff is beyond my level of understanding.
 
Most I see are 500amp, which seems way more than I need. I have a tiny beginner system, 100 watt panel, 100 ah battery, and will be running 5 amp fan, charging phone and laptop, led lights, not much else - no fridge or microwave or heater or AC.  I just don't want to waste money on something for much larger systems, but I do want something I can easily look at to see the state of charge % without any calculations or additional testing needed with voltmeters and ammeters and multimeters.

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BMV-...27270873&sr=8-1&keywords=Victron+702-BMV&th=1
 
I have a Victron BMV 700. Works well, but not the cheapest. Bluetooth function works well.
Ted
 
WalkaboutTed said:
I have a Victron BMV 700.  Works well, but not the cheapest. Bluetooth function works well.
Ted

Thanks, how long have you been using it?  I haven't found any that are much cheaper, so I may go with the Victron. Does it give you a % for the state of overall charge of the battery? My main concern is not taking it below 50%. Also, is the temp sensor necessary? Does it shut it off if it gets too hot? I'm not even sure what they do.
 
For five years I've been using a combination of the status lights on my Morningstar MPPT charge controller, a MidNite battery state-of-charge monitor that shows only a rough percentage, and a cheap auto store voltage reader that plugs into a 12V outlet. Those have been enough to satisfy my needs, since I wouldn't know what to do with more data. Everything has kept groovin' along without me needing to fiddle with anything.
 
You can do fine with the Bayite.

Make sure with all your charge sources that they hold Absorb until trailing current drops below your battery's endAmps spec, or use .005C if you can't get that from your batt manufacturer (not a good sign).

So for 230AH that would be around 12.5A

That is your 100% Full benchmark, and you should try to get there a few times per week for bank longevity.

Then reset your Bayite and - assuming the shunt is placed correctly - start counting down AH.

Stop drawing before 100 - 120A has been drawn. Less is better, both for longevity and assuming inaccuracy.
 
I've been using the BMV in my trailer for 4 months now. It measures percentages and how much you've used in the last discharge, and many other uses. You can also set audible alarms for whatever level you want. The Victron monitor and the Victron charge controllers complement each other very well. With the Bluetooth function, which you might as well get built in the controller it is infinitely programmable.

For example, Hubby went on a 6 week trip back East. He would sit for several days at a time, using his microwave. TV and electric coffeemaker frequently. With hazy weather, after three days, his batteries (450ah) were heading down into the lower 12's. Knowing that he wasn't going to get a long enough absorption period and the float voltage is too low, he upped his float to 14.9v for a day or two. His batteries were very hungry and with the charge controller Bluetooth display, he could see that the panels sent 150 amps into the batteries in one day. He doesn't have the monitor, just the charge controllers. He just had to remember to set the charge controllers back to the normal voltages when the batteries were happy again.

I have a Blue Skies 3000i in my van for 18 months. It works well and can be programmed on the fly, but not nearly as easily as the Victrons. Nor does it give you the info, especially a rolling 30 days.
Ted
 
John61CT said:
So for 230AH that would be around 12.5A
Brain fart!

.005C would be 1.25A, half of 1%

big difference, at 12.5A likely still over 5% and three hours to go!
 
Go to http://marinehowto.com and Ctrl-F search for

Battery Monitor

to get a few excellent articles on installing and calibrating AH-counting style BMs, as well as a good review of the much easier to deal with and more accurate SmartGauge (only works with lead banks)
 
You'll need multiple bayites to get an accurate picture of both your charge and load. I used a single one to estimate each and designed my system and use around that. It wasn't 100% correct, but I am confident I was getting up to 100% a few times a week.

I currently use the low end Victron which provides all that functionality in a single smart phone screen, and am comfortable pushing the system a bit harder.
 
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