Battery drain

[Carla618]

I think something is draining the battery on my 1995 F250. I'm nervous about it being an expensive repair job (to find out what is draining it). I just got the truck out of the repair shop and the bill was almost $1,400.00. Tonight the truck wouldn't start and it has a brand new battery. I used a fully charged jumper pack on it and it seemed like the truck/battery was sucking the power down when I tried to start it. Still wouldn't start with the jump pack. It was only 20 degrees out. Yesterday it was minus 20 wind chill and I never started it.

I've been having an electrical problem for a long time and a mechanic told me I should take it to a shop that specializes in electrical issues. He gave me two names. But then I let my son -in-law borrow the truck and he blew out the transmission plug. After that the truck had no power on hills. Eventually died on a hill and wouldn't restart with a jump (when my daughter borrowed it).

I had it towed to a transmission shop. Hence the $1400.00 bill. The transmission was fine, but he did fix many things that needed attention. Just not this electrical issue. (I was convinced the transmission had issues and forgot what that other mechanic had told me). The transmission shop spent most of the labor hours on a bundle of wires that were "cut". I suspect it was chipmunks, because I saw them repeatedly climbing up my truck tires.

Without this issue I could sell the truck and break even (because of the demand for used vehicles). But I'm worried this electrical issue will be very expensive.
Has anyone had this problem? I Googled it and it's called a "parasitic draw". What I want to know is if it usually ends up being an expensive fix. Probably nobody can answer that without diagnosing the truck or completing the job. Just super disappointing. I was planning on buying a used topper and leaving around February 5.

Thanks (for letting me vent, if nothing else.

 

[Carla618]

I just found someone with same truck & same problem on a forum. He solved it:

"Found out that a switch was added that turns off the battery current as a theft deterrent. If left on it drains the battery! Had I known I could have saved the cost of a new battery. Thanks for the tip..that saved me the cost a mechanic."

That reminds me, I am having problems with my alarm. It quit working many months ago. Then two days ago the darn thing went off when I was getting in my truck after an appointment.

Also, every time I get in the truck and turn off the truck, my radio makes beeping sounds.

Finally, the previous owner had a fifth wheel trailer and there is a light that never goes off (unless the battery is dead). It is a black box on the lowest part of my dashboard with a green light. It is for the trailer brakes (I will never need it). Could that drain my battery?

 

[Camper]

It could take days or even weeks for a little light to drain a new battery, but there could be a problem inside the brake controller that could drain it down. If I had it down here I'd disconnect the power wire and see.

Do you need a 3/4 ton truck? Every one I had loved lots of gas.

 

[Carla618]

Do you need a 3/4 ton truck? Every one I had loved lots of gas.

No, I don't need it. I bought it for a truck camper, but a year ago I sold the camper to pay my property taxes (All plans for living in my camper fell through when Covid hit. I've been babysitting grandchildren for almost two years.

I hoped to buy another truck camper, but can't afford it yet. So, my plan was to buy a used topper and a tent and hit the road.

This parasitic draw thing is super common, I discovered. There are youtube videos with millions of views on how to properly test for a parasitic draw. It's not looking good.

 

[Camper]

If I owned the truck I'd install a battery disconnect switch and see what happens.

 

[Carla618]

The owner of the transmission shop told me to bring it in tomorrow morning. If it starts tomorrow I'll see if he will install one. Can't cost that much.

 

[Camper]

You might get that new battery tested to see if it needs charging.

 

[GntlStone]

Battery connections are important too. I had to have new clamps put on my battery wiring recently. They seemed tight, but were just loose enough to not properly charge/start the van.

 

[RonDean]

I also have an F150 with some kind of electrical issue. My emergency brake light is always on - EXCEPT in the summer when I am running AC it sometimes goes off. The dealer said it wasn't "worth" the labor cost of tracking down and fixing and I should just ignore it.

 

[user 423]

Using a battery disconnect will reset the computer (ECU or PCM) each time. The computer stores info that controls how your transmission shifts (shift points) and the fuel/air mix for the most efficiency.

So it will solve your draining problem but it's not the best solution. Here's a link that explains why:

https://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_disconnect_problems.htm

 

[Camper]

I'd search Google and someone out there has had the same truck problem.

 

[bullfrog]

There is no magic involved with fixing your truck. Using a battery disconnect is a work around the problem that needs to be found and fixed after all you don't want to deal with this while on the road right? If you can use a test light, can remove a battery cable and pull/replace your vehicles fuses the YouTube videos can be helpful other wise most shops have a minimum charge of an hour to even look at electrical problems. There are good helpful people here that can help if you are near by them.

 

[DannyB1954]

A major source of a battery drain is the alternator having a shorted output diode. This circuit isn't fused, so pulling every fuse that you have looking for the drain will not help. With the ignition off, disconnect the alternator output wire and put a voltmeter between the wire and the alternator terminal. Voltage should show zero or very close to it.

 

[dustytrailhead]

I think something is draining the battery on my 1995 F250.

I Googled it and it's called a "parasitic draw". What I want to know is if it usually ends up being an expensive fix. Probably nobody can answer that without diagnosing the truck or completing the job.

I had a 2004 Powerstroke. If it sat for awhile the batteries’ SOC would drop to about 12.1 volts. That’s noticeable on diesel in cold weather. I tried to find the parasitic draw but the amperage was very small. There’ll always be some. So, I got a couple of Walmart batteries. I checked the voltage afterward that, and it would still drop over time. But, I never had problems with slow starts after that. So, it needed batteries.

Verify the battery first. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and put a charger on it. If it doesn’t hold 12.6 volts, it’s bad. If it holds a change, is it getting a charge. Interstate Battery will test all this for free.

You did not mention how fast your battery goes flat. That will indicate what kind of accessory circuits to look at first. You’ll likely need a multimeter, but if the battery goes down fast a test light might do the job.

One thing to keep in mind: Don’t turn anything on. That includes the dome light and the under hood light. Tape the door switch and pull the bulb from the hood light fixture.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

2a. If it’s a big draw, go ahead and put your test light between the negative battery post and the now disconnected negative terminal. If it glows, clamp the probe and tester’s clamp in place and go pull fuses, checking the tester for each fuse.

2b. (2a scenario is likely a fantasy, you’ll need a multimeter)
To begin set the multimeter to DC10A ( you might have to move a probe on the multimeter) because if it’s a big draw it could fry the multimeter on DCmA, well the “affordable” ones.

3. Clamp the probes to the to the battery post and cable terminal

4. At this point the multimeter will display a value. If it’s .00<something> or less set the multimeter to DCmA ( you might have to move the probe back) At this stage the multimeter is vulnerable. Don’t turn on the headlights!

5. Cars with computers draw something. I don’t think your ‘95 has odbii, so I don’t know what to expect. I imagine it’s something, though. If it’s less than .25 on DCmA setting, I don’t think it’s a problem. Nevertheless…

6. Go through the fuses, ONE AT A TIME, checking the amperage each time.

Once you figure which accessory circuit is draining the battery, you still might not be able to fix it. But, if it’s something like the dome light, just leave that fuse out. (Dome light? We don’t need no stinking dome light!!!)

***Multimeters are not that hard to use. They cost around $30 and can quickly tell you if your battery is charge up or if your alternator is charging it. It’s a pretty good tool to keep around.

 

[Carla618]

You might get that new battery tested to see if it needs charging.

The owner of the shop looked at it this morning. He agreed with you about installing a battery disconnect as a temporary measure. He said battery drains can sometimes be a simple fix, but I'm broke atm. I told him to order the disconnect. He said it will cost about $50 installed. I have to call him this coming week.

The jumper pack I used last night wasn't charged enough, even though all the lights were on. I let it charge all night and it worked this morning. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Carla618]

Battery connections are important too. I had to have new clamps put on my battery wiring recently. They seemed tight, but were just loose enough to not properly charge/start the van.

This truck has cost me three batteries since I bought it 2.5 years ago. I've asked two shops to check over the battery connections. I think they did.

 

[Carla618]

I also have an F150 with some kind of electrical issue. My emergency brake light is always on - EXCEPT in the summer when I am running AC it sometimes goes off. The dealer said it wasn't "worth" the labor cost of tracking down and fixing and I should just ignore it.

That is a strange electrical issue. I'd ignore that, too.

 

[Carla618]

Using a battery disconnect will reset the computer (ECU or PCM) each time. The computer stores info that controls how your transmission shifts (shift points) and the fuel/air mix for the most efficiency.

Thank you! I'll check the link and maybe cancel the disconnect switch.

 

[Carla618]

I'd search Google and someone out there has had the same truck problem.

I think hundreds of thousands have had same issue, lol. Based on the number of forum posts I found.

 

[Carla618]

...after all you don't want to deal with this while on the road right?

I won't go far, but I do have to leave on the 5th. I'll attempt to fix it myself. I'm in central Illinois.