Battery/Control Center/Charging Querrie

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Unca_T

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Winona, Mn
Hey Gang-

It's been awhile since I've posted here, but I'm still around. I've been busy building the van out and I have a question.
Is there any reason why the battery and it's ensuing control panel need to be next to each other? I'm having a hard time
finding spots for it, so I'm trying to think outside the box.

The other battery related thingy is can I use my motorcycle battery tender to keep this giant deep cycle up?

Wishing you happiness.
Trevor
 
Unca_T said:
Hey Gang-

It's been awhile since I've posted here, but I'm still around. I've been busy building the van out and I have a question.
Is there any reason why the battery and it's ensuing control panel need to be next to each other? I'm having a hard time
finding spots for it, so I'm trying to think outside the box.

The other battery related thingy is can I use my motorcycle battery tender to keep this giant deep cycle up?

If it's not a SEALED battery, it needs to be separated from any electrical components - inverter, charger, solar controller, whatever.  The fumes from such a battery will corrode them, sooner or later.

A battery tender is designed to keep a battery charged while it is being stored, NOT to replace a lot of amp hours you've used out of it.
 
If you have somthing that senses current the shunt resistor or Hall effect transducer needs to be at the battery.  Everything else needs to be where it is convenient to look at it.

A small battery tender is likely to fail.  If anything gets turned on the tiny tender won't keep up and you won't notice.
 
The battery's fuse should be very close, and the shunt for monitoring must be before any other connections.

The monitor's display likely doesn't need a heavy wire, many work with phone/ethernet style and are designed to be mounted wherever's convenient.

Any other distance issues can usually be overcome with big heavy wiring.

What sort mfg/model how big / many batteries?
 
Trebor English said:
If you have somthing that senses current the shunt resistor or Hall effect transducer needs to be at the battery.  Everything else needs to be where it is convenient to look at it.

A small battery tender is likely to fail.  If anything gets turned on the tiny tender won't keep up and you won't notice.

Thanks for your response. I don't know what I Hall Effect Transducer is. My battery tender idea was only because I haven't installed the battery. It's been sitting on the floor in the house for awhile. I didn't want to install it when we don't use the camper much. I thought I could use the same thing you use to keep your motorcycle battery going.
 
John61CT said:
The battery's fuse should be very close, and the shunt for monitoring must be before any other connections.

The monitor's display likely doesn't need a heavy wire, many work with phone/ethernet style and are designed to be mounted wherever's convenient.

Any other distance issues can usually be overcome with big heavy wiring.

What sort mfg/model how big / many batteries?

John61CT-
Thanks I didn't know that, but that's a good idea. My battery bank is one battery. It's a hundred AH and I got it on Amazon.
Unfortunately it was made in china.
I've seen people talking about shunts before and I've seen them being sold on Amazon with some expensive meters. However that's the extend of my knowledge about them.
My idea with the battery tender was only because I don't have the battery installed in my van yet, and am not a full timer. We still own our house and work day jobs. I thought when not in use maybe bring it in the house or the shed and hook it up to a thing that will keep it topped off. Oh by the way it's a sealed lead acid battery.

thanks again.
Trevor
 
I agree with T E ^. don't let that battery sit unused and uncharged. highdesertranger
 
Unca_T said:
My battery tender idea was only because I haven't installed the battery. It's been sitting on the floor in the house for awhile
Yes fine for that, already full, no cycling, no loads.

But only for that, counteracting self-discharge rates.
 
Unca_T said:
My battery bank is one battery. It's a hundred AH and I got it on Amazon.
Likely not designed for deep cycling.

Use it as a Starter if it fits, or count cycles if you do use it for deep cycling, look for signs of severe deterioration within a hundred or so, don't draw below 50% , get it back to 100% frequently and asap.

Next time buy 2x Sam's Duracell flooded golf car 6V, <$180 for 200+AH, will last you much much longer.
 

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