recent marine diesel unit posted to eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dickinson-Newpoet-Diesel-heater/132876331478
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dickinson-Newpoet-Diesel-heater/132876331478
Alaska Winters in a Truck Camper
- Thread starter austi003
- Start date
Help Support Van Living Forum:
Homeless in Canada
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2018
- Messages
- 123
- Reaction score
- 0
I would install an auxiliary heater in the camper. So when you are driving the engine is sending hot coolant to the camper and keeps everything in the camper from freezing with no operating cost. And if all else fails you can use a remote starter to run the engine and warm up the camper in the time it takes the engine to warm up.
When you are not driving run a generator to power an electric heater. The generator will consume more fuel than running a propane heater. But it will be much safer. I can run a 1500 watt electric heater all night on 2 gallons of gasoline. Just keep the generator exhaust away from your sleeping place. For emergencies keep a buddy propane heater but I don't use it when you go to sleep.
When you are not driving run a generator to power an electric heater. The generator will consume more fuel than running a propane heater. But it will be much safer. I can run a 1500 watt electric heater all night on 2 gallons of gasoline. Just keep the generator exhaust away from your sleeping place. For emergencies keep a buddy propane heater but I don't use it when you go to sleep.
That exact setup, but substitute a water-based Espar style fuel heater fed from same fuel as your vehicle engine for the electric heat.
That is for long term use, much easier to use more fuel efficient, more reliable and compact.
Ties right into the same hydronic loop between the "auxiliary heater" (water to air heat exchanger, radiator) and the engine block.
Can be thermostat regulated, safe to run overnight.
If the vehicle is reliable enough, which it should be, no Mr. Buddy backup required. But those are useful if you have occasional access to a larger space, like a conex parked / stashed somewhere out there for storage / visiting.
That is for long term use, much easier to use more fuel efficient, more reliable and compact.
Ties right into the same hydronic loop between the "auxiliary heater" (water to air heat exchanger, radiator) and the engine block.
Can be thermostat regulated, safe to run overnight.
If the vehicle is reliable enough, which it should be, no Mr. Buddy backup required. But those are useful if you have occasional access to a larger space, like a conex parked / stashed somewhere out there for storage / visiting.
Night_Sailor
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 43
- Reaction score
- 15
My Bigfoot camper was used by the Canadian Mounties above the Arctic Circle. You need a well insulated camper. You also need at least two heat sources. I thought about installing electric heat and decided not to. I do have a reliable furnace. I plan to add a small wood stove for ambiance and as a backup. They are a nuisance to feed as small ones sized for a TC run out of fuel quickly. You will want probably two CO detectors. I have one. I also have a small vent near the bed which is intended to let some air in and vent heat.
I also plumber my propane generator feed to an extend a stay propane tank. So it would be a easy matter to hook up a huge external tank or have a small trailer with a few 100 lb propane tanks.
You can have running water but it’s work. I will leave you to research it. Many winter campers flush with non toxic antifreeze when the need to use the bathroom.
I don’t have heat in my bathroom. I though about adding it and decided against it as leaving the door open earns it up and leaving it closed leaves less volume to heat. Full timing I might want to add heat in there to prevent freezing.
Final thoughts. I have reflect-x for many of the windows. I only used it a few times. I can do without blocking out all the light. I like leaving the skylights open. I do have many lighting options inside including indirect stealth lighting. . It is no fun living in a blacked out cell window and might make it pleasant.
I also plumber my propane generator feed to an extend a stay propane tank. So it would be a easy matter to hook up a huge external tank or have a small trailer with a few 100 lb propane tanks.
You can have running water but it’s work. I will leave you to research it. Many winter campers flush with non toxic antifreeze when the need to use the bathroom.
I don’t have heat in my bathroom. I though about adding it and decided against it as leaving the door open earns it up and leaving it closed leaves less volume to heat. Full timing I might want to add heat in there to prevent freezing.
Final thoughts. I have reflect-x for many of the windows. I only used it a few times. I can do without blocking out all the light. I like leaving the skylights open. I do have many lighting options inside including indirect stealth lighting. . It is no fun living in a blacked out cell window and might make it pleasant.
Night_Sailor
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2011
- Messages
- 43
- Reaction score
- 15
Even well insulated, in single digit temps I burn a lot of propane.
I’ll guess a 20 lb tank would last 36 hours or less in single digit F temperatures. I remember one spell where I could not unfreeze my water drain and I had to keep my heat on for 3-4 days here one winter until we had a warm spell. I was changing tanks every day.
Also, I drove cross country in the winter two years ago and saw 9°F in Rawkins Wyoming. In that trip I used two 20 lb propane tanks. It was below freezing the whole way. Temps were set to 50° when I was driving to protect my pipes.
If you are relying on propane, I’d get a 300 gallons external tank and have back up forcwhen you run out, including a spare furnace and don’t have water unless it’s portable jug.
I’ll guess a 20 lb tank would last 36 hours or less in single digit F temperatures. I remember one spell where I could not unfreeze my water drain and I had to keep my heat on for 3-4 days here one winter until we had a warm spell. I was changing tanks every day.
Also, I drove cross country in the winter two years ago and saw 9°F in Rawkins Wyoming. In that trip I used two 20 lb propane tanks. It was below freezing the whole way. Temps were set to 50° when I was driving to protect my pipes.
If you are relying on propane, I’d get a 300 gallons external tank and have back up forcwhen you run out, including a spare furnace and don’t have water unless it’s portable jug.
I've deleted a few posts due to bickering.
mpruet
Well-known member
it’s minus 53 degrees in Fairbanks currently... if you do this, be prepared.
I have some cold weather camping experience but definitely not sustained -40C camping!
Not sure how you would survive that other than having either an extremely well insulated camper ($$$) or a wood stove in the camper... And of course, insulated tanks not exposed.
Not sure how you would survive that other than having either an extremely well insulated camper ($$$) or a wood stove in the camper... And of course, insulated tanks not exposed.
Hi! Thought this would be a great place to make my first post!!
This was my first year since going on the road that I spent months of time in mountains during winter. I was in Utah, Oregon, and Washington State. No where near the temps (-40) your talking about however. This timing also conincided with a setup change that I've been researching for about a year.
I started out wintering in a Black Series trailer. These trailers have no floor insulation and the entire water system is exposed. My unit also had a cassette toilet. I ran the water system dry, meaning nothing in the tanks with all the lines and the water heater blown out. I just used water jerries and added RV anti-freeze into the grey tank. The cassette was inside the heated compartment, so it didn't freeze. You could also add RV anti-freeze to the cassette. At this point temps ranged from about 10f to 33f. Trailer had a single Dometic 10k heater and it ran constantly. I burned through a 30Lb propane tank about every 7 days. The biggest issues are condensation. You have to keep air flowing through not only the main cabin, but also all of your compartments. Closed lockers will pool condensation soaking everything inside and will freeze the condensate on exterior walls in campers/trailers/vans that have thermal bridges.
About half way through this year's mountain time I moved into a Northern Lite truck camper. The cold weather difference is amazing. NL and Bigfoot make a mountain superstar. Being insulated fully AND not suffering from the problems associated with thermal bridges usually found in aluminum framed campers, they hold heat very well and allow you to use drastically less fuel for heating. They also take into consideration the problems of operating in the cold. Each locker is vented, the windows are thermal pane, the dump valves are located in a heated compartment, and the basement is heated as are the tanks.
As for heaters, I'm not a fan of the forced air propane type. They get super finicky and fail quite often (at least mine have). I've had two brand new Dometic heaters fail, mostly related to air flow through the system and high altitude. I'm a HUGE fan of Planar Forced air diesel heaters. They're simple to work on in the field and very reliable as compared to what comes in most campers. I've also had to rely on catalytic heaters for extended periods. They're fine in dry environments, but even vented become a huge liability when there's snow outside.
If I was starting from scratch, I'd take some time and hunt down a used BigFoot 2500. I think that would be the absolute best bet for Alaska. The only major issue is that your probably gonna want a 1 ton dually. They are big campers.
This was my first year since going on the road that I spent months of time in mountains during winter. I was in Utah, Oregon, and Washington State. No where near the temps (-40) your talking about however. This timing also conincided with a setup change that I've been researching for about a year.
I started out wintering in a Black Series trailer. These trailers have no floor insulation and the entire water system is exposed. My unit also had a cassette toilet. I ran the water system dry, meaning nothing in the tanks with all the lines and the water heater blown out. I just used water jerries and added RV anti-freeze into the grey tank. The cassette was inside the heated compartment, so it didn't freeze. You could also add RV anti-freeze to the cassette. At this point temps ranged from about 10f to 33f. Trailer had a single Dometic 10k heater and it ran constantly. I burned through a 30Lb propane tank about every 7 days. The biggest issues are condensation. You have to keep air flowing through not only the main cabin, but also all of your compartments. Closed lockers will pool condensation soaking everything inside and will freeze the condensate on exterior walls in campers/trailers/vans that have thermal bridges.
About half way through this year's mountain time I moved into a Northern Lite truck camper. The cold weather difference is amazing. NL and Bigfoot make a mountain superstar. Being insulated fully AND not suffering from the problems associated with thermal bridges usually found in aluminum framed campers, they hold heat very well and allow you to use drastically less fuel for heating. They also take into consideration the problems of operating in the cold. Each locker is vented, the windows are thermal pane, the dump valves are located in a heated compartment, and the basement is heated as are the tanks.
As for heaters, I'm not a fan of the forced air propane type. They get super finicky and fail quite often (at least mine have). I've had two brand new Dometic heaters fail, mostly related to air flow through the system and high altitude. I'm a HUGE fan of Planar Forced air diesel heaters. They're simple to work on in the field and very reliable as compared to what comes in most campers. I've also had to rely on catalytic heaters for extended periods. They're fine in dry environments, but even vented become a huge liability when there's snow outside.
If I was starting from scratch, I'd take some time and hunt down a used BigFoot 2500. I think that would be the absolute best bet for Alaska. The only major issue is that your probably gonna want a 1 ton dually. They are big campers.
Not all Bigfoot are 4 season campers,it seems. Something to keep in mind when shopping used.
My 1988 9.6 ft 1500 series has 1" insulation, single pane windows, etc. However stock wet weight claimed by factory was <1200 iirc. It weighs a lot more that now but it's sitting on a F450
My 1988 9.6 ft 1500 series has 1" insulation, single pane windows, etc. However stock wet weight claimed by factory was <1200 iirc. It weighs a lot more that now but it's sitting on a F450
Another reason to have a separate diesel tank for the furnace is I’d think you could use heating type diesel and not have to pay the road tax... My former life was chimneys and such. Venting LP to me is important as what I always heard for every 100,000 btus you burn you pump one gallon of gas give or take into your dwelling when going ventless. I’ll let bob wells chime, but I’m guessing he let the heater go out while at work and fired it up when he got back inside. I live in -20 to -40 weather in Minnesota. I live on the iron range. I’d prefer the colder 35 to 40 below actual temps to say -20 because once it gets that cold the wind doesn’t usually blow if ever. I never thought about it til fishing in northern Manitoba. Talking with a gal in Lynn Lake she mentioned that. I lived in my old hunting shack for years here. Always planned to build and am doing so now. But in the old shack it was all I could do to keep the wood stove stoked enough when it was -20 or so with wind. ( often -50 or colder wind chill). But when it got -30 or colder it would get too hot because of the stillness... so I had doors open a lot.
I know I don’t live in Alaska, but living just south of international falls, maybe my experiences would be something to think about.
I know I don’t live in Alaska, but living just south of international falls, maybe my experiences would be something to think about.
highdesertranger
R.I.P HDR
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 22,892
- Reaction score
- 86
I believe Bob said he left his heater on 24/7 for months on end. highdesertranger
I’m remembering that too... in my younger years I lived in a cabin with only wood heat. No running water... that was a winter that hit below the -40 degree mark. I’d come home and light a fire. Everything froze. Then go gather wood and such while the cabin warmed. I don’t think you gain anything letting your van cool off. The amount of propane burned to reheat the place would pump plenty of moisture into the van. Likely in the walls. Keeping things from freezing is usually important. I’m considering the diesel heater myself. Leaving my Minnesota cabin I’ll miss the wood stove, but not the actual cold winters.highdesertranger said:
I have stayed in vans and campers at below freezing temps for extended times. Not Alaska but Rocky mountains elv-10,000ft+, Doesn't really matter, bitter cold is bitter cold..
A couple of take aways for me.
When you are up off the ground you will never absorb or hold decent heat. You are always getting your heat sucked away. You turn off the heat source for an hour or two everything is frozen. Wind and cold is bad, find wind protection.
Sitting in small spaces with a heater is not healthy. Not good to do for extended time, especially with one blazing which you will need. I do not know the science of it but it is not fresh air.
Like other have said propane puts moisture everywhere.
In the winter a camper in a truck bed=metal can with insulation= Refrigerator.
-Life should not be that big of a struggle.
A couple of take aways for me.
When you are up off the ground you will never absorb or hold decent heat. You are always getting your heat sucked away. You turn off the heat source for an hour or two everything is frozen. Wind and cold is bad, find wind protection.
Sitting in small spaces with a heater is not healthy. Not good to do for extended time, especially with one blazing which you will need. I do not know the science of it but it is not fresh air.
Like other have said propane puts moisture everywhere.
In the winter a camper in a truck bed=metal can with insulation= Refrigerator.
-Life should not be that big of a struggle.
what you can do with diesel heat also depends on if it needs electricity to run a blower. There are some gravity drip fed diesel heaters around but they have their own set of issues for reliability. I have never used one but I have seen them on youtube and also seen postings about them in some of the live aboard boats forums. We did have a diesel fueled cookstove on a boat we owned but did not go out much in the winter so never really tested it for winter time living. But it could be used to heat the cabin. The boat went with my ex in the divorce as his brother was a co-owner. They removed the cookstove, they did not like how much space it took up. What a shame to do that. it gave that custom crafted wooden boat a true old time mariner year around use and appeal.
flying kurbmaster
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2012
- Messages
- 1,677
- Reaction score
- 48
I had a Dickenson deisel heater on a sailboat, gravity fed, no electricity needed to operate bought it brand new used over several winters no issues, sipped deisel , looked great and kept a 31 foot boat warm in the Georgia straight. I really liked it and would think it would be ideal in a well insulated van in harsh winter conditions. I think wood would work as well only it is messy and a lot more work, and need storage for wood supply. I currently have a Dickenson propane vented heater in van, that would also work but much more expensive to run. I don’t feel as safe running propane while I sleep as I did with the diesel heater.
Similar threads
