A new problem - faucet

[rvpopeye]

I know a lot of those class B rigs have cables connected to the tank dump valves extending them to the outside of the rig because they are not easy to reach otherwise.
I've seen the cables get stuck , break or just come loose.
Just another possibility !

 

[lterry]

Sounds like it could be plugged.  I just went through that.
I suggest filling the tank right up and then taking it to a free sani-dump station.
http://www.sanidumps.com/
Hopefully that will be enough to break it loose.
If not, what I did was order Piranha enzymes. http://www.super-seal.com/piranha-holding-tank-cleaner
I put in 7 cap fulls (7 times the recommended dosage for a holding tank).  I let it sit for 3 weeks and then tried to dump it.  The enzymes were working but only a bit came out.  So, I called a septic tank service (ask them if their hose will fit through an RV toilet) and had them come out.
End of story.

It was empty when I got it. The idiot light said so...yes, I believe the light because now it says the tank is 3/4 full which it is.

 

[lterry]

I know a lot of those class B rigs have cables connected to the tank dump valves extending them to the outside of the rig because they are not easy to reach otherwise.
I've seen the cables get stuck , break or just come loose.
Just another possibility !

Yeah, mine does too, and it worked too until I twisted and the little metal arm came loose from it today. So I reach way up and opened the valve myself. And opened and shut it again.
Maybe I have the black and gray valve mixed up...

 

[BC Guy]

I would make sure the rod you are pulling for the black tank is actually pulling the valve open and not just moving the rod back and forth.  

If the rod is not connected to the valve, you can pull the rod right out.  I had that happen with the grey water one a couple of years ago.

 

[rvpopeye]

It sure is a good thing there is only water in that tank !

I think the cause is getting narrowed down though.

B and C's loose rod theory. Fix: replace the valve.

OR the plugged up tank........
Fix: some good ideas so far,
First , try looking into the tank through the toilet valve with a nice bright flashlight .

 

[lterry]

If the rod is not connected to the valve, you can pull the rod right out.  I had that happen with the grey water one a couple of years ago.

The valves are basically behind each other. Is your's? If so, which one is on the outside? I assumed the black tank was the furthest one, and the gray was the one closest to the edge. No, I didn't assume that. I saw a diagram somewhere, though I could have been looking at a different model or something.

 

[lterry]

It sure is a good thing there is only water in that tank !

I think the cause is getting narrowed down though.

B and C's loose rod theory. Fix: replace the valve.

OR the plugged up tank........
Fix: some good ideas so far,
First  , try looking into the tank through the toilet valve with a nice bright flashlight .

The rod is a misnomer. It's currently in the trash. It coming loose would have nothing to do with offloading the water I just splashed down the toilet since I can reach the valve handle without that rod.

Going to look in toilet with flashlight...let's hope I don't drop it

 

[rvpopeye]

I think the referred to rod is the one on the other side of the handle.
Between the handle and the actual valve.
Not the one on the extender .
Usually the black valve is 3" in diameter and the grey valve is 1 1/2"


And yes Don't drop the light !
Skuh kuh kuh kuh kuh

 

[highdesertranger]

hahaha "Going to look in toilet with flashlight...let's hope I don't drop it". sorry I had to laugh at that one. highdesertranger

 

[BC Guy]

The valves are basically behind each other. Is your's? If so, which one is on the outside? I assumed the black tank was the furthest one, and the gray was the one closest to the edge. No, I didn't assume that. I saw a diagram somewhere, though I could have been looking at a different model or something.

No.  On mine the handles are on the sides of the dump hose.  Grey water on the left and black on the right. The grey handle (which came off and was reused with the new valve) has a rod about 7' long.

 

[BC Guy]

I don't recall what year yours is. I found a manual for a 1993-1994 Roadtrek 190 Independent at http://www.roadtrek.com/support-contact#section-manuals
This says that the handle for the grey is located above the black, so it sounds different from yours. Maybe you can find your year there.

 

[BC Guy]

Okay, 1990. The manual for 1990 is for all models. Unfortunately it does not say where the handles are located in relation to each other. Darn.

 

[B and C]

There is a test that can be done but it will take two people.  Get the end of the dump hose higher than the toilet.  Run water into the dump hose.  If the dump hose fills with water higher than the toilet but the level in the tank doesn't rise (looking down the toilet without dropping the flashlight   ), the valve is still closed or the bottom of the tank where it connects to the dump valve is clogged.  While looking underneath, you should be able to tell for sure which valve is connected to the black tank as the black tank will be directly under the toilet.  If the valve is open for sure, there is probably dried poo in the bottom of the tank blocking the drain.  You could just leave some water in the tank and use some of the toilet treatment bacteria found in the RV section at Walmart.  Leave the valve open but plug the drain hose.  When the water level in the tank goes down the plug has been softened some.  Drain the hose and close the valve.  Add more water and bacteria.  I would add the whole bottle, it is for treating up to 40 gallons, but you want a lot of them working for you.  Let it set again for a few more days or longer if you can.

 

[TMG51]

Hopefully lterry doesn't mind me posting on her behalf.    Several small plumbing problems fixed, but after filling the freshwater tank and getting nothing from the pump, I followed the line back and realized that somewhere along the line a previous owner had cut it off.  :huh: (Previously all plumbing leaks and trials were under city hook-up. The system doesn't currently have a line to the tank for off grid use.)

The tubing is that polybutylene stuff. Lowe's doesn't have any of it. I'm aware of a Sharkbite fitting to adapt from PB to Pex, although Lowe's didn't have that either. I'm also not sure about heat resistance as it's right next to the exhaust. I suggested getting an estimate from the local camper place as I'm not sure what else to recommend and I don't want to be responsible if something melts.  :-/

Any other ideas? Crappy picture but you get the idea.

 

[masterplumber]

Definitely switch to pex. And also definitely avoid the exhaust pipe ; ) There are crimp fittings that adapt the two types, but you'll probably only find them at a plumbing supply, and you'll need a crimp tool. On a mobile home I was working on once i needed to adapt an odd size poly that I've seen in RVs also. I was able to find a "press fit" fitting that worked at Lowes. They usually have a bunch of different ones in the plumbing area. They are usually white pvc and work similar to Shark Bites. The absolute best way would be to repipe it throughout with pex and just change the threaded adaptors at the tank, pump, etc... but that may be more than you want to take on just now.
On the other hand, if you can get it to RTR I'll have everything in my truck to make it happen ; )

 

[lterry]

Hopefully lterry doesn't mind me posting on her behalf.    Several small plumbing problems fixed, but after filling the freshwater tank and getting nothing from the pump, I followed the line back and realized that somewhere along the line a previous owner had cut it off.  :huh: (Previously all plumbing leaks and trials were under city hook-up. The system doesn't currently have a line to the tank for off grid use.)

The tubing is that polybutylene stuff. Lowe's doesn't have any of it. I'm aware of a Sharkbite fitting to adapt from PB to Pex, although Lowe's didn't have that either. I'm also not sure about heat resistance as it's right next to the exhaust. I suggested getting an estimate from the local camper place as I'm not sure what else to recommend and I don't want to be responsible if something melts.  :-/

Any other ideas? Crappy picture but you get the idea.

Thanks for posting

Masterplumber, all signs point to GO as far as RTR, and I wish I could, but responsibilities keep me here until June. 
I don't know if there is a way to route the line away from the exhaust as that's how it looks like it was previously...right, TMG51?

 

[rvpopeye]

It's possible to convert to copper then back to plastic for that area , or extend the plastic and loop up over it ?

 

[B and C]

There is a lot of heat shielding under there.  Keep any replacement up above and away from the heat shield should work.  At this point I second the option of getting a RV repair place involved since this is getting into specialty stuff.

Can you contact the previous owner to find out why the hose was cut?

 

[TMG51]

I don't know if there is a way to route the line away from the exhaust as that's how it looks like it was previously...right, TMG51?

Certainly the line needs to be kept away from the exhaust, but I can't tell how that was done previously as the existing heat shield isn't in a helpful spot. I made a simple little diagram of the layout under there. But the line needs to extend out further than where there's any existing heat shield... so I'm not sure how roadtrek did it to begin with... there's not a lot of room between the rest of the exhaust and the body.

 

[B and C]

Everything under a Roadtrek is very tight.  They cram a lot of stuff in that small space.  It took me a half a day to run a wire from the front to the back under there in mine. 

Did you mess with the generator at all?  I know, cross posting.