A new problem - faucet

[lterry]

You will want to sanitize your water system when getting ready to use it and that used to be green hose is probably the old garden hose used to wash the sewer hose and such.  In any case, I wouldn't use it for potable water.  Please get the items I linked to before using your system.  Oh, if you search for something from Bob's blog page on Amazon and buy there, he will get a small percentage and it will cost you nothing.  This helps to pay for this site.

The toilet leak appears to be a back flow preventer (safety measure to keep anything in the bowl getting sucked back into fresh water lines).and the rubber part is probably dried up.  Put a rag, sponge or pail under it and flush a few times to make it loosen back up.  That may be all it takes.  Seems to be working out that way for you so far.  It appears this rig has been sitting for quite some time or at least the water system hasn't been used in a while.

Don't postpone that WH maintainence too long.

No, the waterhose didn't come with the van- it's just been in the yard collecting holes, I noticed.

I have all your links pulled up in different tabs as we speak - thanks for those! But do I want to purify all the water coming into the camper? That seems unnecessary for the water going into my toilet and shower. I had planned on using a filter on my sink faucet.

 

[TMG51]

That polybutylene (PB) tubing is crappy stuff, but there are fittings made specifically for adapting from that stuff, for that reason. Shark Bite has some that work great switching PB to Pex. So I wouldn't jump straight to replacing all the lines if you have further problems - you can replace problem spots.

How did the guy manage to explode his battery? I'd like to try and prevent that.

He allowed his positive terminal to short out to the vehicle body. That's a very bad thing to do but it shouldn't happen unless you've done something very wrong!

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

He allowed his positive terminal to short out to the vehicle body. That's a very bad thing to do but it shouldn't happen unless you've done something very wrong!

And, if you do decide you need to work on - or around - your battery, for God's sake make sure you remove any rings, bracelets, or what have you before you start!

Regards
John

 

[lterry]

That polybutylene (PB) tubing is crappy stuff, but there are fittings made specifically for adapting from that stuff, for that reason. Shark Bite has some that work great switching PB to Pex. So I wouldn't jump straight to replacing all the lines if you have further problems - you can replace problem spots.


He allowed his positive terminal to short out to the vehicle body. That's a very bad thing to do but it shouldn't happen unless you've done something very wrong!

Oh, to make it fit, I just twisted the whole hose a few times. I thought something was wrong with my hose, was missing, and that's why I basically had to do acrobatics to get it on. Doesn't matter as I'll buy the proper hose later. I have bigger fish to fry at the moment. I only THOUGHT I'd fixed my window leak. I think I know where it's still leaking. I was running out of the glue and ended up applying thinly on a spot I noticed last minute - probably the spot the needed the most glue only got a thin coating.

Turned the water on again this morning and the toilet still leaks. I flushed over and over and it didn't flush, meaning no water "rinsed" the bowl. It just kept leaking out of the same place in the back. So, the water is back off.

 

[B and C]

I have all your links pulled up in different tabs as we speak - thanks for those! But do I want to purify all the water coming into the camper? That seems unnecessary for the water going into my toilet and shower. I had planned on using a filter on my sink faucet.

YW

I use the blue inline filter on all water that I put in the sanitized tank.  They last a long time (6 mos.?) and are relatively cheap.  I did not have to re-plumb a line and put a filter inside where space is scarce enough already.  You could add another filter for water taste if you want to give up the storage space in the line to your sink.  The blue filter can be stored with the hose attached wherever you want to store it.

Since your van has seen little recent use, it may be a good idea to flush the entire system with a hose connected to the city fill/use connection.  There is a valve there that switches between filling the tank and using city water direct.  Be careful not to pressurize the fresh water tank when filling it with city water pressure.  Mine has two fill points.  One is where I can screw the fresh water hose in that is connected to city water and another one that I can shove the water hose in or gravity fill from a water container and a hose.  The gravity fill plug should be removed when filling via city water pressure.  This gives the air in the tank somewhere to go as it fills.  There should be a drain for the fresh water tank near the sewer dump hose.  Fill and dump the tank a couple of times to get rid of whatever is in there.  When it is time to sanitize the system ask and I'll walk you through the steps or you can search the net.

Hang in there.  You are doing a great job so far.

 

[lterry]

Here's the long of it!!

It's not pretty and it involves much use of moaning, groaning and several words that can be used as a verb, a noun, an adjective and an adverb....

You will feel like a contortionist when you're done and have bruises where you didn't know you could bruise.

It IS helpful to have someone standing by to pull you out by your toes or the belt loops when you get stuck. They can also be on hand to pass in the one tool you forgot to drag in with you in the first place.
Ear plugs would be helpful for the standby person but then they wouldn't be able to hear you asking (nicel y please) for said tools.


The short version of it - There is no easy way.

Seriously, see if you can remove any of the shelves that might be in your way. I'd suggest looking at replacing the whole line if you can. It's likely split where it attaches to the faucet. Once rubber hose starts splitting in one spot, it's going to do it some place else sooner rather than later.

 Don't forget to turn the water off somewhere before the leak so you don't also have to mop up! Don't ask how I know about that advice...

A mirror helps btw.

Contortionist is right on the money!

 

[lterry]

And, if you do decide you need to work on - or around - your battery, for God's sake make sure you remove any rings, bracelets, or what have you before you start!

Regards
John

Got it - only long Mr. T chains, right?

 

[lterry]

You will want to sanitize your water system when getting ready to use it and that used to be green hose is probably the old garden hose used to wash the sewer hose and such.  In any case, I wouldn't use it for potable water.  Please get the items I linked to before using your system.  Oh, if you search for something from Bob's blog page on Amazon and buy there, he will get a small percentage and it will cost you nothing.  This helps to pay for this site.

The toilet leak appears to be a back flow preventer (safety measure to keep anything in the bowl getting sucked back into fresh water lines).and the rubber part is probably dried up.  Put a rag, sponge or pail under it and flush a few times to make it loosen back up.  That may be all it takes.  Seems to be working out that way for you so far.  It appears this rig has been sitting for quite some time or at least the water system hasn't been used in a while.

Don't postpone that WH maintainence too long.

Okay, how do I stop the pressure of the water in order to check the anode and rise everything out?

 

[rvpopeye]

If you're hooked to a hose , shut it off or disconnect.
If not , just turn off your water pump.
Drain the Hot water tank.
Check the anode rod.
You might need a big socket or maybe just a open end or adjustable wrench/

 

[lterry]

Is this it?
Turning the inner hex nut type thing isn't working so great. I can't get it to budge.
Turning the outer wing nut type thing isn't so tough, but it's confusing. Turning it left, it moves well, but after a while I noticed that the threads were disappearing rather than coming out. Turning it right, it eventually stops going.

 

[B and C]

Is this it?
Turning the inner hex nut type thing isn't working so great. I can't get it to budge.
Turning the outer wing nut type thing isn't so tough, but it's confusing. Turning it left, it moves well, but after a while I noticed that the threads were disappearing rather than coming out. Turning it right, it eventually stops going.

After turning off the water pump and/or the city water, open a faucet to release pressure.

The threads disappearing is saying that it is going into the tank and opening to drain the tank, so turning it counterclockwise is opening it and turning clockwise is closing it.  Did water come out? It is called a petcock, your engine radiator probably has one in the bottom tank to drain the radiator with.  Mine does not have the petcock.  Is you WH a Suburban or a Atwood?  Mine is a Suburban.  Atwood's may or may not have an anode rod in that vintage.  If it is a Suburban, the part for an Atwood has been installed and needs to be changed to the Suburban anode rod.  The PO did this for ease of draining for the winter not realizing that the tank will corrode without the anode rod that is made for it installed.

In either case, you will want to remove that big bolt head (1-1/8 inch IIRC).  I use a 1/2 inch drive 6 point deep well socket to get it in/out and clean the calcium out of the tank (twice a year if used regularly , otherwise at least yearly).  When you put it back together use Teflon tape on the threads.

If water did not come out of the petcock or anode rode hole, your's may have a "bypass kit" installed.  Do not fire up the hot water heater until you are 100% positive there is water in it.

 

[lterry]

After turning off the water pump and/or the city water, open a faucet to release pressure.

The threads disappearing is saying that it is going into the tank and opening to drain the tank, so turning it counterclockwise is opening it and turning clockwise is closing it.  Did water come out? It is called a petcock, your engine radiator probably has one in the bottom tank to drain the radiator with.  Mine does not have the petcock.  Is you WH a Suburban or a Atwood?  Mine is a Suburban.  Atwood's may or may not have an anode rod in that vintage.  If it is a Suburban, the part for an Atwood has been installed and needs to be changed to the Suburban anode rod.  The PO did this for ease of draining for the winter not realizing that the tank will corrode without the anode rod that is made for it installed.

In either case, you will want to remove that big bolt head (1-1/8 inch IIRC).  I use a 1/2 inch drive 6 point deep well socket to get it in/out and clean the calcium out of the tank (twice a year if used regularly , otherwise at least yearly).  When you put it back together use Teflon tape on the threads.

If water did not come out of the petcock or anode rode hole, your's may have a "bypass kit" installed.  Do not fire up the hot water heater until you are 100% positive there is water in it.

I heard a release of some sort when I twisted the wing nut, but no water came out. I have no such tool but the open wrench I used couldn't get it to budge and that's with putting every bit of my weight into it. This might be something I have to take to someone else to get to :/
I think I have my propane off, though, so there's no risk in it trying to heat any water, or in my case, air. What does a Suburban look like vs. an Atwood? There are no stickers or emblems on mine.

 

[lterry]

Wait, a clue a clue!
This is to the right of the water heater, but I thought it was the exhaust thing for the furnace. Anyway, it says Suburban.
Update: just checked the owner's manual (duh) and it's a Suburban.

 

[ahh_me2]

The rectangular 2 hole intake/exhaust is for the Suburban furnace

 

[lterry]

The rectangular 2 hole intake/exhaust is for the Suburban furnace

Mystery solved - that's my furnace and it's a Suburban. And my WH is a Suburban also if you go by my owners manual.

 

[ahh_me2]

And now you know!

 

[B and C]

I heard a release of some sort when I twisted the wing nut, but no water came out. I have no such tool but the open wrench I used couldn't get it to budge and that's with putting every bit of my weight into it. This might be something I have to take to someone else to get to :/
I think I have my propane off, though, so there's no risk in it trying to heat any water, or in my case, air. What does a Suburban look like vs. an Atwood? There are no stickers or emblems on mine.

I looked through both the sales brochure and the owners manual.  It does not state which one it has.  Your best bet at this point is to contact Roadtrek support - 888-ROADTREK.  They have a great support staff and will answer your questions.  

1. Find out the make and model of ALL the appliances you have from Roadtrek  They may want the VIN for your Roadtrek.
2. Find the manuals for the appliances you have by visiting the manufacturers websites if they were not included with the vehicle.

You will be glad to have these manuals anytime you have a question you can refer to them or when asking questions, you will have make and model.

BTW - I noticed that you do have a water heater bypass system.  It may be in the bypass position if just air came out through the petcock.  It is located on the back side of the WH where the plumbing fittings are.  Hopefully it is marked as to what position it is in.  If not, it will have to be figured out before the anode rod gets put back in.

 

[masterplumber]

I changed an anode at RTR for a member last year, on a Roadtek. Her's had a bypass, but I didn't want to drain her water heater since we were boon-docking and 6 gallons of water is a lot. If you shut off the valves on the bypass, and the input valves to the water heater it will airlock the tank when you remove the anode and you can replace it with very little water loss. You do need to have the new anode already teflon taped and ready to go so you can pull the old one and shove the new one in quickly. If the water heater burps and air gets in it's allover with and you'll get wet. We probably didn't lose much more than a table spoon. It does sound like your's is already in bypass, and empty so you shouldn't have to worry about it. You will get much better leverage with a socket and large ratchet or breaker bar. If you don't want to purchase one most Auto Zone and O'Reilly auto parts stores will loan the tools, usually for free.

On most RVs they use ball valves on the water lines. When the handle is in line with the pipe it is on, and when it's perpendicular it's off. So to bypass you want the valves feeding the water heater perpendicular to the pipes, and the valve on the pipe connecting the hot and cold lines in line. Then reverse them to fill the water heater. These pipes and valves are usually located in the lower cabinet inside, directly behind the water heater. Hope that helps.

 

[rvpopeye]

My water htr is the same. No anode and a ballcock drain in that location.Only a 9/16" nut on the ballcock.....
HOWEVER there IS a large nut on the back side next to the hose in/out labeled ANODE !

 

[B and C]

My water htr is the same. No anode and a ballcock drain in that location.Only a 9/16" nut on the ballcock.....
HOWEVER there IS a large nut on the back side next to the hose in/out labeled ANODE !

If there is a large nut and it is labeled "anode", you want to check it regularly unless you don't mind replacing a corroded water heater.  My suburban was at least $250 and probably more and I did the labor.  This damn CRS!!!!!!!!! (pardon the French) Not an easy replacement as the shield that goes against the outside wall had to be cut to fit the curved walls on my Roadtrek.