A new problem - faucet

[lterry]

I looked through both the sales brochure and the owners manual.  It does not state which one it has.  Your best bet at this point is to contact Roadtrek support - 888-ROADTREK.  They have a great support staff and will answer your questions.  

1. Find out the make and model of ALL the appliances you have from Roadtrek  They may want the VIN for your Roadtrek.
2. Find the manuals for the appliances you have by visiting the manufacturers websites if they were not included with the vehicle.

You will be glad to have these manuals anytime you have a question you can refer to them or when asking questions, you will have make and model.

BTW - I noticed that you do have a water heater bypass system.  It may be in the bypass position if just air came out through the petcock.  It is located on the back side of the WH where the plumbing fittings are.  Hopefully it is marked as to what position it is in.  If not, it will have to be figured out before the anode rod gets put back in.

My manual says it's a Suburban. It has no information on it beyond that but it gives a list of company's you need to contact for various appliances and it says:
water heater (U.S.) manufacturer Suburban
water heater (Canada) manufacturer Suburban

It has the manufacturer for all my appliances for warranty purposes.

 

[lterry]

My water htr is the same. No anode and a ballcock drain in that location.Only a 9/16" nut on the ballcock.....
HOWEVER there IS a large nut on the back side next to the hose in/out labeled ANODE !

I'll check on that. Thank you

 

[rvpopeye]

Well ,,,,,it's only a 1981 RV so I'm sure the anode is still good !?!?
Actually , I'm scared that it will rip a giant hole in the tank if I try to remove it......
Guess I'll give it a good soaking with PB Blaster first. eeeeewwwwww , I can taste it already !

 

[B and C]

Lisa,

I found this:

• 
  Suburban Water Heater
  • 
    The model and serial number information can be located by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your RV. The silver colored data plate with black printing is located on the right side of the metal control housing as you face it from the outside. The model number will be located on the top line of the data plate and will begin with "SW" or "V". The nine digit serial number will be on the bottom line.

The model number should get you a manual and there you will find everything you need for the feeding and care of your water heater.  If you provide the model to me I can help searching for the manual.

 

[lterry]

Lisa,

I found this:

• 
  Suburban Water Heater
  • 
    The model and serial number information can be located by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your RV. The silver colored data plate with black printing is located on the right side of the metal control housing as you face it from the outside. The model number will be located on the top line of the data plate and will begin with "SW" or "V". The nine digit serial number will be on the bottom line.

The model number should get you a manual and there you will find everything you need for the feeding and care of your water heater.  If you provide the model to me I can help searching for the manual.

No SW or V but in the serial number line is: 89381
That's the good news, I found the serial number.
Bad news is I think the water heater is shot. It has leaked and rotted the wood adjacent to it as well as started a rust spot on the outside. I'm SO observant, right? Pardon me while I shake myself. While I've been so very observant, the wood under my bed has been rotting. :/

On the upside. I had already been wondering how efficient it was and had considered replacing it with the on demand kind. Thoughts?

 

[lterry]

On the other hand I might not even worry about a WH at the moment. I have a tub - I can heat water.

 

[lterry]

Or I could buy this...I actually like this idea.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/hot-water-shower-system/82748

 

[Almost There]

Or I could buy this...I actually like this idea.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/hot-water-shower-system/82748

You might want to rethink that unit - it uses D cell batteries to power the pump and disposable propane cylinders to heat the water. Whether or not and at what cost adapters for the propane to run off of a larger tank or the built in propane in your RV would need to be determined. If it can't be converted to run off larger propane tanks with hose adapters AND needs several D cells to function, your cost of operation may be larger than is worthwhile.

If you're thinking of on demand units, consider whether you want hot water at more than one place in the RV - dish washing in the sink and showers in the bathroom. There's either single faucet instant hot or multiple faucet units available.

 

[B and C]

Or I could buy this...I actually like this idea.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/hot-water-shower-system/82748

As has been said, D cell batteries and disposable cylinders along with it doesn't connect to a faucet, it has a submersible pump.

The on demand type might be OK.  Sealing the hole where your existing HW heater is and then venting through that should work.  You could tie the hot/cold and propane right into it in that compartment.  I don't think you will need a larger unit as has been suggested as only one hot water point will be in use at a time.  Any you might consider would need to be checked for mounting clearances.  You may not find one that small.

I bought my replacement WH from PPL in Houston.  It may be easier (and cheaper) to just replace the HW heater:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/801319.htm

 

[lterry]

You might want to rethink that unit - it uses D cell batteries to power the pump and disposable propane cylinders to heat the water. Whether or not and at what cost adapters for the propane to run off of a larger tank or the built in propane in your RV would need to be determined. If it can't be converted to run off larger propane tanks with hose adapters AND needs several D cells to function, your cost of operation may be larger than is worthwhile.

If you're thinking of on demand units, consider whether you want hot water at more than one place in the RV - dish washing in the sink and showers in the bathroom. There's either single faucet instant hot or multiple faucet units available.

It uses two D batteries. I could get rechargeable. Also, it has an DC adaptor so it doesn't actually have to run off of batteries. The only hangup is the small propane tanks. It wouldn't be easy to try to adapt my current propane to the WH since I don't have a movable tank. It's the long stationary type running horizontally under the drivers side of the van.


I don't have to have hot water running to both sink and shower. They could share...meaning my sink and shower are almost directly across from each other. The hose for my shower is long enough that I could rest the shower head in my sink easily for a sink full of hot water.

 

[lterry]

As has been said, D cell batteries and disposable cylinders along with it doesn't connect to a faucet, it has a submersible pump.

The on demand type might be OK.  Sealing the hole where your existing HW heater is and then venting through that should work.  You could tie the hot/cold and propane right into it in that compartment.  I don't think you will need a larger unit as has been suggested as only one hot water point will be in use at a time.  Any you might consider would need to be checked for mounting clearances.  You may not find one that small.

I bought my replacement WH from PPL in Houston.  It may be easier (and cheaper) to just replace the HW heater:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/801319.htm

Yeah, I'm reconsidering the on demand. Another reason I was considering other options was to save space, make more room for storage. But that's basically taking up the same amount of space. 
It's back to a regular WH for me. However, I still think that's something that can wait. Like I said, I have a tub and know how to heat water on the stove.

 

[B and C]

Yeah, I'm reconsidering the on demand. Another reason I was considering other options was to save space, make more room for storage. But that's basically taking up the same amount of space. 
It's back to a regular WH for me. However, I still think that's something that can wait. Like I said, I have a tub and know how to heat water on the stove.

Be sure you WH is all the way in the bypass mode (valve not partially open).  It probably is already in bypass if leaking evidence.  The PO ruined the tank when he put that Atwood drain in the Anode hole and corroded the tank.

 

[lterry]

Be sure you WH is all the way in the bypass mode (valve not partially open).  It probably is already in bypass if leaking evidence.  The PO ruined the tank when he put that Atwood drain in the Anode hole and corroded the tank.

It might not be totally done - I'll see when I get the nerve to turn on the propane...
Toilet is still leaking and not doing a rinse when I flush. No water enters the bowl at all. I keep putting a little bit of water in the bowl after giving it test flushes, so that the gasket doesn't dry out.

 

[B and C]

It is probably clogged with algae (now dead?).  The first time I flushed mine, a big glob of green slime came out.  RV's that have been left to sit without being properly stored are going to have issues.  

Get a rag or spray bottle and a solution of soap and water or kids bubble maker solution works well.  Spray all connections and check for bubbles.  Open all the doors and do not have any open flames nearby.

 

[lterry]

BTW - I noticed that you do have a water heater bypass system.  It may be in the bypass position if just air came out through the petcock.  It is located on the back side of the WH where the plumbing fittings are.  Hopefully it is marked as to what position it is in.  If not, it will have to be figured out before the anode rod gets put back in.

I don't see a valve or anything that looks like an on/off or open/close situation. 

Also, these plumbing fittings look new. Do you think it's possible that there was a problem that they fixed but didn't bother fixing the water damage? Maybe my WH works after all.
But...I have to do something to the propane to see. Intimidating! I also need water which I can't do until the toilet is fixed.
Hm...okay, fixing the toilet is priority.

 

[B and C]

To start with, your propane tank is completely empty.  That is a fill level gauge on there, but you probably knew that.  The valve to open is the one on the propane tank, it will pressurize the system (make sure the stove top is turned off).  The other propane appliances have safety built into them with thermo-couples that need to be heated before they will stay running.  There will be gas fittings on your WH, fridge, furnace and stove top.  Did I miss any propane appliances?  Each one will have a propane line going to it and there will be some T's in the lines.  The copper pipe on the WH is your propane line.  Each appliance will propane appliance will have these lines.  They may not all be copper.  The line for the fridge is outside behind the lower access door behind the fridge.  Mine has a T there too.  You may have to take the top off you cook top to get to its' fitting.  The WH needs to be full of water before trying to get the fire lit.  Open the hot water tap on your kitchen sink and let the air hiss until water comes out steady.  It is a 6 gallon tank so there will be a lot of air as it fills.

Dang, your propane tank is a lot cleaner than mine.

If you don't think you can make these checks, you local propane filling station may be able to, or at least point you to somewhere to go.

It does not look like you have a WH bypass installed.  I don't know what that box on the bottom of the WH is.  The bypass consists of two valves (one each on hot and cold WH connection) with a hose going between the two valves.  Switched one way, the water fills and leaves the tank, with the valve switched and the water "bypass"('s) the water heater.

Your WH is a lot different than mine.  Mine is a suburban too.  This is why model numbers are important.  Kind of like I got a Chevy.  Is it a van or pickup, car maybe?  

I bet that big bolt on the back side there is the anode and the one outside is probably supposed to be there to easily drain the tank for winterizing.

I think you need to work on the toilet before the WH.  You need a place to go.  You can heat water over a campfire if you have to have hot water.  That back flow valve where it is leaking on the toilet may be the culprit.

You need to get your water straightened out before working on propane.  With the propane you will get into all the propane appliances.  

Keep it simple and work on one thing at a time, otherwise it may get overwhelming.  Hang in there kiddo.

 

[lterry]

I think you need to work on the toilet before the WH.  You need a place to go.   You can heat water over a campfire if you have to have hot water.  That back flow valve where it is leaking on the toilet may be the culprit.

You need to get your water straightened out before working on propane.  With the propane you will get into all the propane appliances.  

Keep it simple and work on one thing at a time, otherwise it may get overwhelming.  Hang in there kiddo.

Right, working on the toilet now.

BTW, I gave my fridge away today. It works but isn't so great for boondocking - it's a mini fridge instead of a propane/electric RV fridge. My plan is to get an icemaker and keep a cooler. With the fridge out of the way, there's a nice big space for me to make a shelf eventually. I'll put the ice maker on the top shelf and the cooler will go under it. This icemaker will be a solution to a different issue I was worried about. So two problems worked out - I just need...money. Now where did that money go.?

 

[Gary68]

Right, working on the toilet now.

well,thats awful dual purpose of you,a true talent my one track mind couldnt do

 

[lterry]

well,thats awful dual purpose of you,a true talent my one track mind couldnt do

Is that sarcasm or are you being serious?

 

[TMG51]

Is that sarcasm or are you being serious?

I think neither, but an observed double entendre.