70s era RVs - opinions, experience, advice?

MargaretA · Jun 9, 2011

Hello all, A lot of these have been popping up on my local Craigslist - Class Cs around 20' and the occasional Class A. I'm not really interested in an A but the Cs are just about the right size for me. But I can't seem to talk myself into going to see one. For one thing, there's the bus issue - it takes me a long time to go anywhere, even close by. But I'm also having trouble justifying a trip to see something that old. I keep wondering about things like: - mileage - a lot of these were built before that became an issue - old RV parts - would I want to use a water tank that's 40+ years old? And if any of these die are replacements available? - tires in sizes that are now hard to get - and of course condition. Here in CO that usually means dried-out rubber more than rust, but rust does show up once in a while, especially on vehicles originally from out of the area. And a whole lot of other things that could break down just from age. As I said I haven't looked into any of these yet. I thought it might be a good idea to ask here, first of all to see whether it's worth my time to do that, and second just for the information in case anyone else is considering buying something like this. I know there are people here with mechanical knowledge about the engines/transmissions/etc. of that time who might be able to provide some more info. I'm also wondering if anyone here has ever owned/used/driven one of these, and if so, what was your experience? In case anyone is interested here are a few of my bookmarks: http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/2424114390.html http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2417855745.html http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/2397082944.html   (this one is a TransVan so it's smaller, but I really like that size) http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/rvs/2379044132.html   (this one's not really close but it's a Chinook and I'm partial to them; they seem to have been built well) Meg

Khaosinc · Jun 9, 2011

I don't know much about the RV part of them, but *most* parts for the engine/tranny and tires are readily available.  Tires might even be cheaper than you are used to. I don't know much about the RV side of things however.

cyndi · Jun 9, 2011

Margaret, i think you'll find you won't drink the water from your holding tanks.  Most people carry drinking water. Or, if they drink the water from the tank, they have filters. I have a love/hate relationship with the older vehicles.  Carbeurated (sp? I can't make it look right no matter how I spell it!) engines, pre 1986 (?) drive me crazy!  On the other heand, I love how there is less plastic.  They're made to last. I know of a couple of Class C's, on the road; a 75, 77, and 79 and they're running strong!  In Arizona, where it's dry and vehicles tend to last longer I see tons of older RV's being used regularly, even as daily drivers. Still, I'm shooting for something 86ish or newer, but if the right older vehicle comes along, I certainly give it serious though.   psssst Jim... I'm talking to you!

Guest · Jun 10, 2011

carburetted  <img src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" align="absmiddle" border="0"> http://tinyurl.com/4yevqrn Bri

stude53 · Jun 10, 2011

Meg, My opinion is that you should stop looking so far afield at RVs, (it just makes yoiu crazy to see ads for something thats seems great by the description and is too far away for you) and concentrate on the geographic area within reasonable distance so you can personally see ... and have any prospective unit inspected by someone more experienced that you trust.Or, Perhaps you can find a friend near where the unit to be considered is to give you a preliminary opinion prior to you making the travel effort. There are many units out there, and you will eventually find the one for you. I still think you would be better off with a Class B (more room) for a fulltime home, but you have to go with what you think is best for you.<IMG border=0 align=absMiddle src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif">

MargaretA · Jun 11, 2011

stude53 said:
Meg, My opinion is that you should stop looking so far afield at RVs, (it just makes yoiu crazy to see ads for something thats seems great by the description and is too far away for you) ...I still think you would be better off with a Class B (more room) for a fulltime home, but you have to go with what you think is best for you.<img src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" align="absMiddle" border="0">

Sorry, I didn't get notified there were any new posts here... I guess the subscription thing isn't working right. Actually, I am trying to stay local, but everything is far away when you don't have a car. A bus trip to go just 10 miles can take 2 hours, and that's just one way. Because I'm limited to this area and have so little to spend I've tried to keep my options open. I really would like to just limit my search to one thing, but if I did that I'd have practically no choices at all. I am confused about one thing you said, about the Class Bs having more room. All of the ads I posted at the beginning are for Class Cs and B+s. How can a Class B have more room than those? The few that I've seen here in Denver (back when I had more $) were all a lot smaller than the Cs I've looked at. Have I got my terms wrong? Meg

user 423 · Jun 14, 2011

I know you're on a budget but have you thought about buying a small car first, so you can more easily check out the MHs? (financing if necessary).  If you plan to full time it with a Class C, you may want to think about towing a small 'runaround car' anyway. If you're parked for a couple of months somewhere, you would then have a gas miser so you could avoid operating the big MH for groceries,etc.  While traveling, it would be backup transportation in case of a breakdown.

Seraphim · Jun 16, 2011

If you're going to be constantly driving - more travelling than camping - you'll find the Class A superior to a C: stronger chassis, nicer ride, much better view from the cockpit. You can easily pull a toad (small vehicle) behind. Older units will not have slide outs, so there is a feeling of living in a bit of a shoebox. More expensive, especially the diesels with a push engine (pushes unit from rear rather than pulls it from the front). A's have more external storage since the 'house' sits higher, there's more room underneath for a 'basement', so you candrag more stuff along. Keep it under 30' - larger units are difficult to find parking spots for, even in campgrounds where large spaces may be limited. As are expensive to maintain - very expensive just for a tune up. Class Cs are better suited if the unit is going to stay put in one location for a longer period of time. The 'house' is put on a van chassis, which wasn't really designed for that particular purpose, as an A chassis has been.  If you're not going to drive it as much, it's not a big issue. You can tow with a C, but will have to be much more careful of weight limitations. If you're going to do a lot of in-town driving, a small C may be more maneuverable and handy. Overall cheaper and easier on repairs. Don't forget slide out campers that fit in in the bed of a pickup truck. You can leave them on the truck, or stand them in a location while you drive the truck around. Small but suitable for one or two people. Better gas mileage if you park the unit and drive the truck. More versatile than the above two, leaning more to the advantages of the C. Might even get into it cheaper, plus you can replace one half of the combo - if necessary - down the road without the expense of replacing both the motor unit and the house at the same time. We love our B. Small, but we like cozy. Takes a lot of organization to live in something that small - a 19' van with amenities.  We prefer camping in nature and out in the boonies. The pickup camper might be a better solution if you're going way off road, but our van has taken us places Cs and As can't fit. We also tow a 78 Beetle. Dealers won't carry parts on older units, but can order them. Takes a few days.  Parts stores are better and cheaper. Take some community automotive courses. (You might also find a pickup reasonably priced now, and use it to drive looking at the house units). On any older 'house' there are many concerns to have checked: germs in the water system, leaks in the gas system. etc. Also, on any older motor vehicle, expect a lot of up-front expenses to prevent more expensive breakdowns (hoses, tires, bushings. pumps, filters, etc). Cheaper up front, but needs more constant attention.

Seraphim · Jun 16, 2011

There really is no such thing as a B+: it's something cooked up by salesman to pitch a (generally) low-end C that has no overhead, but has an added cargo body slightly wider than the van's original, making it seem a more upgraded B and therefor desirable.  If the van has the original body, it's a B. If the original body has been replaced with a bigger body, of any shape or size, it's a C.

Zap · Jul 25, 2011

There are tons of 70s Rvs here in Tucson, most are $2000 or less. The one I'm getting tomorrow is from this area and has no rust that I've found thus far in my inspections. Test drive is tomorrow so the final look-see is forthcoming. If anyone is interested in an old Tucson kept RV I may be able to get some pics or looks and let you know what I see, and I'm kinda picky about machines.

vonu · Jul 25, 2011

Zap said:
There are tons of 70s Rvs here in Tucson, most are $2000 or less. The one I'm getting tomorrow is from this area and has no rust that I've found thus far in my inspections. Test drive is tomorrow so the final look-see is forthcoming. If anyone is interested in an old Tucson kept RV I may be able to get some pics or looks and let you know what I see, and I'm kinda picky about machines.

<div> </div><div>Having spent the last dozen winters in the Quartzsite area, the best time to get a deal on a used RV is in the early spring, because they'd rather sell them for a loss than move them for a larger loss.  The situation is probably similar in the entire region.</div>

Zap · Jul 29, 2011

Thanks for the tip vonu, I was about to get a 79 Midas but the seller wasn't at all honest about any of the rig's issues. I've since looked at a half dozen in the Tucson area in the less than $3000 range and several in SoCal online. I was surprised by the number of RVs in SoCal that are affordable, though getting over there to see them and driving them back has to be factored into the total cost. Coming back to Tucson isn't mandatory, but we're not prepared to relocate to SoCal either. So many considerations... The plentiful Tucson market is a little overpriced, but not badly so, for their condition and age. Maybe it's the summer heat or just ill timing

vonu · Jul 30, 2011

Zap said:
Thanks for the tip vonu, I was about to get a 79 Midas but the seller wasn't at all honest about any of the rig's issues. I've since looked at a half dozen in the Tucson area in the less than $3000 range and several in SoCal online. I was surprised by the number of RVs in SoCal that are affordable, though getting over there to see them and driving them back has to be factored into the total cost. Coming back to Tucson isn't mandatory, but we're not prepared to relocate to SoCal either. So many considerations... The plentiful Tucson market is a little overpriced, but not badly so, for their condition and age. Maybe it's the summer heat or just ill timing

<div> </div><div>With the current reports about the totalitarian bent taken by the town government of Quartzsite, it may be possible to obtain a bargain earlier in the season.  The sellers may find their market in severe decline and be willing to cut their losses and get out. FWIW</div>

Zap · Jul 30, 2011

Is there a decent selection of 70s and 80s era RVs in Quartzite? I searched on CL and haven't found much at all.

vonu · Jul 30, 2011

Zap said:
Is there a decent selection of 70s and 80s era RVs in Quartzite? I searched on CL and haven't found much at all.

<div> </div><div>I don't know what CL is, but most of the RV dealers who display and sell in Quartzsite don't show much online.  Most of the 70s and 80s era RVs are trade-ins, which they prefer to sell rather than move.</div>

Zap · Jul 30, 2011

CL is abbreviation for CraigsList. I've had some luck looking at abandoned units. The title process is slow, but worth it if the right unit comes along.

Stillwater · Jul 30, 2011

70's era rv's. I had a 79 (or 80?) Winnebago Brave. The good: More than enough room for one person. Big bed. Bathroom with shower. Baking in a gas oven. The bad: They can be moldy by nature and age. Plastics (like water tanks) and rubber can and will dry rot. Carb'ed, inefficient engine. Lots of ingress points for those hungry mice. (Hav-a-heart traps are awesome.) Not very agile. Neutral: I can *almost* stand up in all areas. I'm 6'3". They are not well insulated... especially underneath though that may have been mine alone.  There is LOTS of clearance underneath to allow cold air to pass. You can help with insulation but stacking hay/straw bales around the perimeter but that adds to the "attracting rodents" issue. This lack of lower insulation means, in midwestern winters where a high of 5F or 10F isn't unusual, that the temperature variation is wild. Think of it like the earth with the different 'spheres. (i.e, Stratosphere.) The temp around the footosphere is frigid. Snow that came in on your shoes is still in a solid form the next morning. The temp around the crotchosphere is manageable. Think: tent camping in the fall. This is the 'sphere in which one slumbers prone in sleep. The temp around the pectosphere is perfect. Hmmm... whoopie. So the microwave controls are a normal temp. The temp around the cranialsphere is subtropical. Do I have a fever?? One can easily keep the incoming water supply liquid with heat tape. Not so the waste tanks and/or sewer drain. Remember High School  Science Class? Water expands when going from a liquid to solid form. Plastic (rotted) tanks  burst when frozen. A drag with gray water tank. The "black" water. Well, let's just call it the yellow ice tank. Leaks. Unlike a van, an RV has a relatively thin skin. Sure, there may be some insulation but the metal skin is thin and lightweight: a thin layer of aluminum, some metal ribs for structural rigidity and then thin plywood/paneling. This thin stuff is joined in wide strips that are sealed. Older RVs must be resealed or they leak. When they leak, all of the stuff in that "sandwich" gets wet, moldy and rots. In wintertime, a bit if water in the seam - then FROZEN - expands the seam and the leak appears or gets bigger. RV's are great but are meant to be used sporadically. Living in one requires special considerations and the owner must be proactive and intensive with maintenance. I wouldn't mind living in one in the desert (or South.) If I was going to live in one again in midwestern winters, I believe it would be a Class B for structural rigidity. Here was the one I lived in for a year.

Zap · Jul 30, 2011

Excellent summary! Gives us wanna be newbies some good thinking points. Our plans are to find an RV that has spent its life in the warm so we can stay in the warm also.  We don't have any plans on wintering in the cold if we can help it. Thank you for the eye opening information Paddlingman!

Stillwater · Jul 30, 2011

I'm not an expert and was just fumbling thru for a year. Experience is a great teacher but pain/discomfort is faster and more effective for memory retention. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">

vonu · Jul 30, 2011

Zap said:
CL is abbreviation for CraigsList. I've had some luck looking at abandoned units. The title process is slow, but worth it if the right unit comes along.

<div> </div><div>Salvage titles are more certain than foreclosed ones.  Salvage titles are fastest and easiest from sheriff's auctions.</div>

70s era RVs - opinions, experience, advice?

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