70s era RVs - opinions, experience, advice?

[Zap]

I've been all excited and then all depressed about the possibility of making the jump to RV living. <br>Lately we have hit such a money based low that I didn't have the gas to drive across town to look at old rigs or show my truck I was wanting to trade.<br>After "throwing a lot of mud at the wall", something stuck. Hopefully.<br>I was offered a 1985 35 ft motor home for nearly free. The desperate seller offered to "give it to me for now" and let me make payments when possible on his asking price of $1500. He doesn't want the truck I was offering to trade. The behemoth needs a fuel pump and the air suspension isn't working, but the seller claims that it worked fine a year ago. It is equipped with all the usual goodies and even has a washer/dryer and trash compactor. If everything works out we can get the beast and then transfer to a smaller rig later.<br>Almost simultaneously I got two calls regarding work for which I've been advertising.<br>I was making arrangements to go bicycle/tent only and list the truck for sale only, while my wife stays with a relative. I have a bit too much pride to ask for help anymore. It's a bad, easy to get habit.<br>Maybe we can make this RV living thing work after all, but it's still touch and go. The next few days will tell. The 70s and 80s units are out there, with some searching and a lot of mud on the proverbial wall...<br>After finding this site a fire has been lit, it's a dream that won't quit as easy as I might.<br>Dammit<br><br>

 

[Stillwater]

Great news, Zap. Best of luck and may the good keep rolling in!

 

[stude53]

<FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Hey, Zap</FONT><br><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"></FONT>&nbsp;<br><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Good for you!<IMG border=0 align=absMiddle src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif"></FONT><br><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"></FONT>&nbsp;<br><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Let us know the outcome, and good luck with the job opportunities</FONT>.<br>

 

[dragonflyinthesky]

<P>Good luck with job prospects, I hate to hear of you and your wife living apart </P>

 

[sputnik]

Hi MargaretA. &nbsp;I hope I'm not posting too late on this thread.<div>I got a '73 Winnebago Brave, 20', about 4 years ago and have a bit of insight.</div><div>Padding_man's description is quite accurate. &nbsp;A serious thermocline from top to bottom. &nbsp;These are like an aluminum covered ice chest, with about 7/8" styrofoam on all the walls. &nbsp;Actually an aluminum-1/8"wood-7/8" styrofoam-1/8" wood sandwich. &nbsp;That's better than nothing, but far from well insulated. &nbsp;It works pretty well for me in the southwest desert, I wouldn't think of using one back east or something.</div><div>If it's made of rubber or plastic you will have to replace. &nbsp;Period. &nbsp;Fortunately, not a whole lot of that but enough.</div><div>If it was ever weathersealed, you will have to strip the old weathersealing off and replace it. &nbsp;Period. &nbsp;No exceptions.</div><div>The water pump &amp; system will be archaic, as others have mentioned, you will have to replace it or carry separate drinking water (at best).</div><div>The stove will still work and maybe the heater too, unless it needs a new thermocouple. &nbsp;But you won't want to use it, far too costly on propane &amp; electricity. &nbsp;I have an Olympian Wave 6, if I run it excessively it costs about $20/mo. for propane. &nbsp;Mostly I use an electric blanket here on the power grid, about $.01/hr. &nbsp;Propane tanks will have to be replaced, they'll be so old the suppliers will refuse to fill them.</div><div>The hot water heater will need replacing unless it has been recently. &nbsp;Not cheap.</div><div>The fridge may very well be ok. &nbsp;However, they were ALL installed improperly, to get it usable in all conditions you will have to remove it and rework the fridge compartment.</div><div>Those are some of the bad points. &nbsp;On the good side if you're not in a hurry to wanderlust and have plenty of spare time to do the work, you can restore it rather reasonably. &nbsp;I've spent way too much on mine, but it's decked out really nice inside &amp; out now. &nbsp;Two words: Eternabond &amp; Kool Seal. &nbsp;Oh, and PC-11 epoxy for "bondo". &nbsp;Oh, &amp; several boxes of #9 self-tapping screws with integral neoprene washer. &nbsp;www.bestmaterials.com is best prices I have found for such.</div><div>I had plenty of time, a place to keep it parked and stumbled across a great deal, $1000, and no kidding, I've seen many of this vintage on the web, none even come close, she is like stock and in great shape, even have the original awning (repaired) and in good shape.</div><div>If I were to start from scratch again, it would be a hard choice for me, 5th wheel or Class A. &nbsp;That drivers section up front, what's it good for? &nbsp;Storage, that's it, as far as I'm concerned. &nbsp;Some have mentioned that a class A is more stable if you do alot of moving, maybe so, but the folks who have them say they drive like a bread truck, which is what the chassis really is. &nbsp;Ever see the old Weber's bread trucks?</div><div>Mechanically, all the parts are still available, imagine a 40 year old auto and what would be necessary to make it serviceable. &nbsp;New brake cylinders, master cylinder, basically replace all brake parts. &nbsp;Rear differentials last a long time, that will probably be fine, of course, all lubricants everywhere will need to be drained, replenished. &nbsp;All the replaceable items on the engine, plug wires, points, plugs, etc. of course will have to be done. &nbsp;Most if not all of them are auto transmission, figure about $1000 to have that done if needed (and it probably will be).</div><div>The gas tanks will likely have old gas in them, worse than useless, will gum everything up, gotta drain &amp; clean them. &nbsp;Check w/your hazardous waste folks, see how easy it is to dispose of old gasoline <img border="0" align="absmiddle" src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif">. &nbsp;(Hint: it does still evaporate, ahem.) &nbsp;While we're speaking of tanks, the black tank will be leaking at the seam around the top (because of course, all sealing materials are no longer...sealing). &nbsp;Gray water tank? &nbsp; Hahaha, they just ran a hose out onto the ground, ain't none. &nbsp;Those laws came along later <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> &nbsp;I redid the drain plumbing, gray water now comes out separate from black, through a 1 1/2" drain pipe to a 5 gallon bucket. &nbsp;You can just empty that into the black tank, but mine's about 25 gallon, will fill up fast. &nbsp;In fact, just about all drain plumbing may need something, mine's totally replaced. &nbsp;You'll have some plumbing work to do, but one good thing, the internal supply lines are ALL copper, very few problems with that here.</div><div>There'll likely be a few electrical issues, I have extensively redone my electrical as of course there was no solar.</div><div>After you've resealed the roof (job #1!) with eternabond &amp; koolseal, removed all the trim strips, eternabonded them and screwed them back in place w/the #9 screws, you'll want to remove all the windows and reseal them with butyl tape, www.bestmaterials.com again. &nbsp;I haven't done that yet and I have serious leaks from a few of them in heavy rain, not good.</div><div>The running lights on top have been leaking for a very long time, &amp; the roof above the "eyebrow", well, let's just say I try to avoid walking there. &nbsp;The plastic lens will fall apart in your hands when you remove them, I used Koolseal butyl tape (great stuff BTW, about $1/ft though) to seal them &amp; bought new lights.</div><div>Oh, padding_man is right, lots of entrances in the bottom for unwanted visitors, however, this really isn't a problem for the refurbishing type. &nbsp;I very personally know every sq. inch of Winnie from top to bottom. &nbsp;1st, you gotta run a bead of caulk around where the aluminum-styrofoam sandwich meets the floor. &nbsp;Then there will be holes where pipes, wires, etc. come out the bottom. &nbsp;Winnebago originally sealed these using plumber's putty and then "painted" that with roofing compound (Henry's). &nbsp;Remember what we said earlier about all sealing materials? &nbsp;Yep, they ain't no more. &nbsp;So just take care of that, I can tell you that the house on the property I live on has a tremendous rodent (and other critters too!) problem, ain't never been a one in here, 20 feet away. &nbsp;In 4 years, the only living creatures in here besides humans &amp; a dog occasionally, is the occasional fly that comes through the door with me, and that is very rare. &nbsp;Well, ok, once when I was working on the plumbing, left a hole open and some ants came in, sealed that up &amp; that was the end of that. &nbsp;They aren't spirits that pass through walls, they gotta have an opening.</div><div>OK, perhaps not comprehensive, but a good picture. &nbsp;I don't want to discourage you, I love my Winnie &amp; it was all worth it. &nbsp;Just don't expect to just hop in and head for the Grand Canyon immediately. &nbsp;Nor will the cost end with the purchase price. &nbsp;Me, I live about as cheaply here as I would "out there", and the wanderlust spirit just isn't that strong anymore, so I'm still not in a big rush to venture forth, it was ideal for me.</div><div>And I should expect that you would find many of these same problems no matter what you buy, depending on the age. &nbsp;Surely, they still have wires &amp; pipes coming out the bottom in places, is the sealing still good? &nbsp;And man, I sure love my wood paneled interior, even if some people think that makes them look "dark", I'd take it any day over their bright Formica interiors. &nbsp;Speaking of which, I also love my retro beautiful Formica. &nbsp;They still use the same fridges, stoves, hot water heaters, water systems, mine are all new, how old are theirs? &nbsp;So, different strokes for different folks. &nbsp;I will say though, the newer fiberglass exteriors might be an easier maintenance item and perhaps cut down a bit on the "solar oven" effect. &nbsp;On a hot desert day, my exterior aluminum in the sun measures 160 degrees! &nbsp;But the aluminum is probably still better, just a modern "cost reduction".</div><div>I do love Bob's setup though <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"></div>

 

[Guest]

If you can find one, the old stainless steel streamliners from the 50s are sweet. The roof can't leak. They're just as cheap as any other pile of crap in bad condition. There's even companies making brand new ones.

That said I'm planning on picking up a 1970 mallard this weekend...lol. I'm planning on doing extensive modification to it..

 

[dragonflyinthesky]

@adamlee-there are others on this site with small travel trailers and vintage as well.<br><b>Dragonfly</b><br>

 

[Seraphim]

Adamlee

Is that the mallard truck camper or the motorhome? 1970 saw both, I believe

 

[Guest]

@dragonflyinthesky, ok. Just stating my opinion.....

@seraphim, its a trailer, but I'm not totally sure its a 1970.

 

[Seraphim]

Ok just checking so I didn't make any irrelevant comments such as, don't forget to check the exhaust manifold... Lol

 

[Guest]

Lol, nice. I wonder how its gonna pull with my Hyundai Santa Fe.....I plan on you.g slow on big grades.....

 

[dragonflyinthesky]

@<b> adamlee</b>, how long is&nbsp;the Mallard?&nbsp; I know someone else here has a Mallard, I just can't remember anything since going thru menopause <IMG border=0 align=absMiddle src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif">.<br>I have had to do a lot of shoring up and floor replacement on my '61 Shasta. Thats not so bad. Run the other way if there have been leaks in the roof. That might mean doing a lot of a tear down, removing paneling etc. &nbsp; A lot of tt's have a wood framing and it rots if it was wet to long.&nbsp; There are lots of campers out there.&nbsp;Watch for signs that the ceiling was recently painted, meaning they probably used kilz to hide stains.<br>Add a couple hundred for new tires to the purchase price. <br>Sorry, you may know all this.<br><FONT color=#00ffff size=3><b>Dragonfly</b></FONT><br>

 

[Guest]

Thanks dragonfly. I'm well aware of leaks, I knew a girl who bought a 3000 dollar camper and found out a wall was totally rotted out.

They say it doesn't leak. Someone removed a couple feet of ceiling material, but what's there is nice looking wood planking.......looks original. I was just gonna peel the rest of the ceiling to match.

I was going to custom make one, and at 375, I might still do that..

It's not restroom equipped though! I wonder where I might find a used toilet and holding tank....

It's a 13 footer, measured without the tongue.

 

[Guest]

So anyway, of course I don't have the camper yet but I have lots of plans.

It has a closet with a window, which seems strange to me. Perfect size for a bathroom, like someone modified something. I want a handheld shower, and plan on doing the hoola hoop shower but see no reason to have an actual shower. I plan on just waterproofing the bathroom and using a floor drain.

I want a real toilet and blackwater tank.

I'm gonna install a flat screen 19 inch tv I already own.

I already have a portable ac unit.

I wonder if this thing even has house batteries and an inverted. I realize everything will have to be replaced

 

[maritimecamper]

I have an older, 1990 classC motorhome. I knew it will need repairs in the future. In Canada, it is easy to get them repaired, fords are everywhere. It seems older class A's are not as plentiful. Plus, i have more room under the hood. I take the "dog house" off and on myself. So Im not paying an extra hours wages. Plus lm more carefull, not to scratch anything, taking the motor cover off. But , it has being 3 years since Ive seen a shop. This motorhome has to last me 30 years.

 

[maritimecamper]

Oops, wrong topic sorry...

 

[Ravensoracle]

When I started looking I saw a lot of 70's and 80's RV's. I even picked up a 70 something Vacationaire trailer I was going to remodel for a nice vintage camper. Then i found that a part of the wall was completely rotted out.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Now I have a 1977 International Dog-nose Skoolie. It was already converted when I bought it. Somebody had stripped out a rv and moved the guts into the bus. I paid $1500 for it and was able to use it that weekend. Since then I've put about $1000 into it. All of that was just making sure the maintenance was up to date. Most of the grand went to new steer tires. The drive tires will come later this summer.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>The bus is larger at 35' but the gas mileage isn't that much worse than I have heard about in the older Class C's. One of the reasons I picked the bus was that of all the comparable age and price RV's I looked at, the bus was in the best structural&nbsp;and&nbsp;mechanical shape.If you do consider looking at any skoolies though take extra time to look over the actual conversion. Mine was very well done with marine grade wiring and all copper plumbing. Some conversions can be scary when you look through them in detail because the converter cut a lot of corner's.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I also want to second the suggestions about having a more fuel efficient backup vehicle. If you don't want a car or truck you may consider a scooter or street legal dirt bike. Both can easily be carried on a hitch rack. Probably not something you'll want if you live in colder climates but an easy alternative for warmer destinations. A dirtbike would also give you an easy way to scout remote camping locations prior to trying to commit the RV to unknown backroads.</div>

 

[Seraphim]

I wouldn't have a problem owning a 70s model trailer. I'd be leery of of a 70 models motorhome for mechanical purposes. A carb rather than fuel injection, parts for drive train repair would probably not be in stock, adding time the unit is in the shop and unavailable...

 

[rattlesnake joe]

<p>The fiberglass egg travel trailers like the Casita have no issues with leaks.&nbsp; At least I haven't.&nbsp; So no hidden rotting in the walls or floors.&nbsp; My 17 ft Casita was made in two pieces like two bathtubs put together, one on top, one on the bottom with a waterproof seal around the middle.&nbsp; No rodents can get in because the bottom is a sealed bath tub type of construction.&nbsp; I have been in big marble size hail and it just bounces off the fiberglass skin.&nbsp; Sounds like hand fulls of gravel and bigger rocks hitting but no damage.&nbsp; Other RVs have damage but not the full fiberglass constructed ones.&nbsp; I would look at only the used all Fiberglass RVs if I were you.&nbsp; They cost more but you will worry less.&nbsp; The bigger ones have good insulation too like the Big Foot that is made in Canada.&nbsp; </p>

 

[Cubey]

I'm not sure what years things changed and they began putting grey water tanks on RVs.. and maybe it was only the lower end ones that didn't have them... but the 1967 Shasta Astroflyte (17ft) travel trailer I had was factory made without any grey water storage.<br><br>The 1978 Dodge Xplorer Class B I have was made with a grey water tank for the sink/shower. Sadly it's missing right now so I'm going to have to shell out a few hundred dollars to get one put on it again but I might wait and just make it a drain to sewer to start with if I don't plan to boondock any for a while.<br><br>

I wouldn't have a problem owning a 70s model trailer. I'd be leery of of a 70 models motorhome for mechanical purposes. A carb rather than fuel injection, parts for drive train repair would probably not be in stock, adding time the unit is in the shop and unavailable...

<br><br>It depends on what it is. Class A... yeah, they have so much custom work done I'd stay away from those. They weren't normal production vehicles. But a B or maybe C? Not so much. A class B is just a normal production van with heavy modifications so parts are pretty common. A class C is almost a production van too so parts would be easier to source I bet.<br><br>I am having the differential rebuilt on my 78 Dodge (B300 van) and all the parts are available. It has a Dana 60 rear axle which is insanely common and very popular with the offroad scene. The 5.9L engine is also pretty common even if it's the 70's model with a carburetor. The parts are still pretty much all available from what I have seen. Only thing that has been expensive and rare so far has been the fuel sender for the 36 gallon plastic tank. I plan to make a new cork gasket and clean up the existing one due to the rarity and cost of them for NOS.<br><br>I had to put a starter on it in the past 45 days or so. It was ordered in-store overnight from OReilly for the lifetime warranty one. It was WAY cheaper than the starter was for my mom's 2003 Taurus.. and a heck of a lot easier to put on I might add!<br><br>The hard part sometimes is finding someone who will work on such an old vehicle. But it's not too uncommon. You might just have to find a mechanic in his 60s or better. That or someone who works on classic cars so they'll be familiar with carburetors if you are having an issue there. Dodge muscle cars used the 5.9L engine so they'd be familiar with working on it.<br>