36 volt solar panel

[jimindenver]

They havent updated the web site yet. That's the same model I have been using for 3 years. They have changed the specs but it's the same case. The manual also has nothing in it about it being able to hold absorb voltage which the original can't do. Oddly it's great for working on a Lifeline because I can set the float to an absorb voltage and hold it as long as needed. I think they are trying to sell of the old ones.

The newer version is already hitting ebay , it's manual is lower in the listing. This one can hold absorb for up to 300 minutes. They are both rated for 50v even though the original was rated at 42v to start with, then 45v, now 50v. lol

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Lost me on the curve Jim. LOL. Great cowboy here, struggling as s electronics engineer. Anyway so can I set this one once a month for a equalization cycle? How often should you do the equalization? What voltage for equalization? How long should you run the equalization cycle? Hey I am learning fast! LOL

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Thanks Seraphim I am goin there now!

 

[jimindenver]

There should be specs to your battery as to how often, how long and at what voltage you should run equalization. The same is true for absorb and float voltages at different temperatures.

The manual to the new version can be seen at the bottom of the ebay listings. You can see the similarities and differences between the two that way.

I'd love to get my hands on a new one to test but really have no need.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Lost me on the curve Jim. LOL. Great cowboy here, struggling as an electronics engineer.

Go on out to Youtube.  Trojan Batteries has done a number of short, very educational videos that you can learn a lot from.  I suggest you start with Trojan Tips 1 and work your way through them.  Trojan Tips 5 specifically covers equalization.

Regards
John

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Gmornin folks. My cables and mc4 tool arrived in the mail from Amazon yesterday! I also have the 10 awg in line fuse for between the panel and controller and between the battery and controller. They are the blade type and I am going to put 20 amp fuses in them. My question is how do I connect the bare wire to bare wire connections. I have crimp connectors but should I solder them and use heat shrink instead?

My controller has been marked shipped in China. No idea how long that is going to take.

Can I put two 2x4s on my round pipe rack on the top of the slide in camper and use hinges from the hardware to attach one side of the panel and then use them to be able to tilt the panel?

The panel is real long and I figure by using hinges I can put three on to provide support in the center of the panel?

I know it's a lot of questions so thanks in advance!

 

[jimindenver]

They make splicers that you put the wires in each end, crimp or solder and put heat shrink on.

I ordered my first Eco-w before a Chinese holiday, it took a month to get here. Others in two weeks.

I would use hinges on both sides, make the pins on one set removable so that you could just pop the pins and lift.

The only think about wood as a support is it's going to be exposed to the weather. I would make sure the hardware bolts thru, not just screws into the 2x4's. You don't want it blowing off at highway speeds.

 

[Seraphim]

I think there's a thread about crimping, soldering, etc on the forum. Good info there...

 

[Seraphim]

Starting around page 6 or 7 in below thread Sternwake goes into wiring, and later in the thread provides comments on crimping. Might start there.


https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Documenting-my-solar-install?page=10

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

The panel is real long and I figure by using hinges I can put three on to provide support in the center of the panel?

I have seen reports of people with tilting panels who had them literally ripped off their roofs when a sudden strong wind came along and got behind them just right.

I, personally, won't go for tilting panels for that reason.

If you want to go that route, make sure you engineer them hell for strong.  Some people seem to get away with tilting them.  I'm not sure if it's good design or just dumb luck.

Regards
John

PS:  Most panel manufacturers claim that drilling into the frame will void their warranty.  Whatever you decide to do, you really should plan for using the factory provided holes.

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Alright Jim n Seraphim off I got to read my way to doing crimp wire junctios! LOL Thanks for the help.

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Next question, I hope you guys are gonna hang in there till I get this finished! Waiting on the Conttoller from China.

So I will have the two Sam's Club GC2 batteries wired together to make a 12 volt. I also have a very good 12 volt marine battery. I know I can't include this in the bank but could I run a negative wire from the GC2 bank and a positive wire with a 30 watt inline fuse and only put the fuse in when I want the 12 volt marine to charge from the GC2 bank? Or should I use a 110 volt charger from the inverter to charge the 12 volt. The 12 volt is the house battery and runs the lights and water pump for the sink. The shower runs off another setup which is either a solar shower bag or a 12 volt boat sump pump in a bucket of warm water.

I read the crimping stuff snd watched the video. I will yank on my crimps for sure!!!

 

[jimindenver]

Put in a switch that allows you to charge either the 6v's or the 12v. They may have different charging voltages so you would have to change them when you switched.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Jimindenver is talking about a switch like this:  http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...7492381&sr=8-4&keywords=marine+battery+switch

Let's you choose OFF - Bank1 - Bank2 or Both Banks.

Regards
John

 

[Oneleggedcowboy]

Ok I understand the switch thing.

But the controller has a load hookup for timed running of lights etc. Could I run a wire from this to the battery to vharge the 12 volt msrine?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Ok I understand the switch thing.

But the controller has a load hookup for timed running of lights etc. Could I run a wire from this to the battery to charge the 12 volt marine?

Just off the top of my head, I would GUESS that terminals that were designed to feed a load like lights or a pump, would be constant amperage.  In other words, they wouldn't taper down as the battery approached full charge, so you could end up overcharging and destroying the battery.

I emphasize that that's a semi-educated guess.  If the manual for the controller says it can be done, then ignore me and go ahead and do it.  But if the manual doesn't say it's ok, then I wouldn't do it. (Well, actually, I - might - but only as an experiment while monitoring the voltage and amperage constantly, just to see what would happen.)

Regards
John

 

[MikeRuth]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Optimistic Paranoid[/font] is right do not charge from the load terminals. They do not have any battery charging algorithm, just output up to there rated load. Bad for the battery. 

Mike R

 

[jimindenver]

Load terminals are usually pretty limited in how much power they can put out.

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah do not hook a battery to the load terminals for the reasons stated. highdesertranger

 

[BigT]

The Eco-worthy controller is here

http://www.eco-worthy.com/catalog/worthy-mppt-solar-charge-controller-12v24v-p-182.html

Just curious, and please forgive me if this has already been answered.  How many Watts of solar can this 20 Amp Eco-Worthy handle?

Using the Watts divided by Volts = Amps calculation, that would suggest that a 20 Amp controller is only good for about 240 Watts at 12 Volts. 
(240W/12V=20A).  Or am I missing something?  I just bought a 15 Amp MPPT CC and it's only rated for 200 Watts (200W/12V=15.8A).   :huh: