2014 Chevy Express 2500 Van Build: Luisafernandes

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A little more Reflectix and some foil tape.
Also cut Reflectix to size and applied it to the rear and side cargo doors. I ordered window tint, 5%, so the foil should be invisible from the outside.

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Without an air space, the Reflectix is a waste of money for insulation, don't bother with it at all. An inch and a half of styrofoam is going to work great!! It's all you need, don't throw your money away on more Reflectix.

The pink styrofoam is a vapor barrier, no need for another. You may want to tape the joints so moisture can't get through there.

You're doing a great job, you will be very pleased with the results!
Bob
 
akrvbob said:
Without an air space, the Reflectix is a waste of money for insulation, don't bother with it at all. An inch and a half of styrofoam is going to work great!! It's all you need, don't throw your money away on more Reflectix.

The pink styrofoam is a vapor barrier, no need for another. You may want to tape the joints so moisture can't get through there.

You're doing a great job, you will be very pleased with the results!
Bob

Thanks Bob.
But since I already started glueing and cutting pieces and can't return the stuff I might as well use it. Do ones on the windows are removable.
 
In some areas, having a reflective surface facing backwards, out the back windows, is illegal.

Whether it will be enforced is another matter.

I taped the reflectix to cardboard panels which are a friction fit and I remove when driving.
 
SternWake said:
In some areas, having a reflective surface facing backwards, out the back windows, is illegal.

Whether it will be enforced is another matter.

I taped the reflectix to cardboard panels which are a friction fit and I remove when driving.

The ones I have are friction fit and removable also. I just put the on today and as soon as I get my window tint they'll become invisible. I hope. If not I'll use your tip and glue it to cardboard.
 
Ice/ water barrier roofing material. Poor mans fat mat! Well it's still expensive but.... No regrets after years. Apply it to large (noisy) panels.


BTW. I've been curious about this for a while, the reflectix is like two layers separated by a bubble layer between, isn't this an air gap? Or if it was in two layers, wouldn't one serve as an air gap?
 
Bdog1 said:
Ice/ water barrier roofing material. Poor mans fat mat! Well it's still expensive but.... No regrets after years. Apply it to large (noisy) panels.


BTW. I've been curious about this for a while, the reflectix is like two layers separated by a bubble layer between, isn't this an air gap? Or if it was in two layers, wouldn't one serve as an air gap?



The roofing material would have to go on the outside, no? And that wouldn't be very efficient or appealing. Or did you apply it to the inside? What about smells?
Reflictix does have air bubbles in between the two pieces of foil, and I plan on having two pieces installed. One against the wall (and against Bobs better judgement. I was too late to change things though), then foam and then another layer of Reflictix. I've noticed that the van is relatively cool inside even with temperatures in the eighties. Being a white van really helps, even if it wasn't my first choice.
 
The reflectix will serve as an air gap which will do more good than the insulation itself will do, so it is worthwhile.

Don't trust any insulation to be a good vapor barrier, do it right the first time.
 
After I do all the Reflectix and foam board, should I use some type of plastic as a final vapor barrier?
 
Luisafernandes said:
After I do all the Reflectix and foam board, should I use some type of plastic as a final vapor barrier?

Absolutely! That will do her up right.
 
Off Grid, any particular plastic?


Finished first layer of Reflectix! All foil taped and all. Then begun the pink 3/4 foam board roof installation. As I did that, I realized that adding two layers of foam, one more of Reflectix and 1/4 plywood my overall hight would be greatly diminished. Not good. And when I add some type of flooring, probably hardwood, the space will be even more cramped.
So, instead of two layers of foam, I'm thinking I'll do just one, followed by two layers of Reflectix, and finished with plywood. I think I can get away with it, for I will be installing a roof rack with plywood on top and solar panels on top of that. Very little sunlight will fall directly on the roof.
Will see...
Here some pics;

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Luisafernandes said:
Off Grid, any particular plastic?


Finished first layer of Reflectix! All foil taped and all. Then begun the pink 3/4 foam board roof installation. As I did that, I realized that adding two layers of foam, one more of Reflectix and 1/4 plywood my overall hight would be greatly diminished. Not good. And when I add some type of flooring, probably hardwood, the space will be even more cramped.
So, instead of two layers of foam, I'm thinking I'll do just one, followed by two layers of Reflectix, and finished with plywood. I think I can get away with it, for I will be installing a roof rack with plywood on top and solar panels on top of that. Very little sunlight will fall directly on the roof.
Will see...




I like the tyvek myself, really tough stuff.

I think I'd go with the vinyl flooring that looks like hardwood, much easier to maintain, and much less weight and thickness.

I would think long and hard before spending money on a solar set-up. I have read that fewer than 1 in 1000 actually work as they should. 6 out of 6 that I had were nothing but a bad joke. I think that charging your house battery while driving, and a 12v generator if you need more power is a much better way to go. Even with solar, I would still want the generator, because I ALWAYS needed it, so I would try it without the solar panels first, then if you wish to add them later you always can.

The solar power systems are slowly improving, and in another 5-10 years maybe they will improve enough to actually make them worthwhile. When I was using my 12v DC generator, to charge my house battery, it cost under 1 gallon of gas per month. Since I have been charging my house battery while driving, I haven't really used my generator much, but I still highly recommend having one.
 
Off Grid 24/7 said:
I like the tyvek myself, really tough stuff.

I think I'd go with the vinyl flooring that looks like hardwood, much easier to maintain, and much less weight and thickness.

I would think long and hard before spending money on a solar set-up. I have read that fewer than 1 in 1000 actually work as they should. 6 out of 6 that I had were nothing but a bad joke. I think that charging your house battery while driving, and a 12v generator if you need more power is a much better way to go. Even with solar, I would still want the generator, because I ALWAYS needed it, so I would try it without the solar panels first, then if you wish to add them later you always can.

The solar power systems are slowly improving, and in another 5-10 years maybe they will improve enough to actually make them worthwhile. When I was using my 12v DC generator, to charge my house battery, it cost under 1 gallon of gas per month. Since I have been charging my house battery while driving, I haven't really used my generator much, but I still highly recommend having one.

Thanks!
I thought of using house tyvek also, but don't know if there's any issue with using it inside the close space of a van. Maybe someone knows?
Same with flooring. That's one of my options, 1/2 plywood with vinyl floor.
The solar though, I really have my mind set on that, but things can change, one never knows.
 
Finished the roof with Mr pink panther, inspector Clouseau will never find him there!
One layer at a time, the complicated becomes feasible.
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I used this stuff extensively.
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Not cheap but not crazy like "Fat Mat". It's not tar paper. (More like plastic) It has no odor and it's self adhesive too. I used it on large metal panels that I felt would resonate. Roof and inside doors applied to the back side of the outer skin. Figure it soaks up the vibration. I actually used Fat Mat around the dog house and on the cab floor because I wasn't sure at that time how well it would work. A lot of people that know nothing about cars comment on how quiet it is on the inside, and mines diesel!

I think the idea with reflectix, it's more of a radiant barrier than insulation. So R valve will be low, but it stops heat gain.


I used multiple lavers of styrofoam, but 3/8 thick. Crammed it in all the seams at the roof line, then did more layers to build it out even with the supports. Looks like your on that same plan. Never can have too much insulation. If I started over think i would make mine thicker with more layers. To prevent a "thermal short"I used plastic pins, instead of screws, to mount the "paneling" (which is also insulation with its own R4 Rating I believe it was).
 
To prevent a "thermal short"I used plastic pins, instead of screws, to mount the "paneling" (which is also insulation with its own R4 Rating I believe it was).
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How do you apply the plastic pins? By drilling first I'm assuming?
 
No need to add a vapor barrier.

Reflectix without a vapor barrier has an R value of 1. That is extremely low and is a waste of time and money without an air gap.

Here is a .pdf from the Reflectix site that lists all the required air gaps for differnet uses:
http://www.reflectixinc.com/images/uploads/allpdfs/diy air space chart revised 0713.pdf

Here is a quote I took direcctly from their website Q and A:

What if There is No Air Space Present on Either Side of the Product?
No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit
(An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)

Here is the page for the above:
http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepag...ns&PageIndex=384#WhatisaReflectiveInsulation?

According to the company who makes the product:

"No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit"

It has an R value of 1 and you are paying a huge amount of money for a tiny amout of insulation. It's a total waste!

Bob
 
I think Bob was trying to get the idea out for others. Op, your van is looking sweet, are you going to put a vent in before you put in the ceiling?
 
How do you apply the plastic pins? By drilling first I'm assuming?

Yes a pilot hole, there like a pop rivet deal, but you just tap them with a plastic hammer instead of a rivet gun.


Thanks Bob for posting the info. on reflectix. Good read!
 

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