2014 Chevy Express 2500 Van Build: Luisafernandes

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Luisafernandes

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Now that I got the van I'm almost ready to begin...well almost. But I need help.
I'm pretty handy with tools but know next to nothing regarding electric, batteries, and screwing into sheet metal, much less the sheet metal on a brand new van. The last thing I need is to screw right through the thin metal wall. I'm having nightmares just thinking about it.
Eventually I would like to have solar panels charging at least two house batteries. For now I'll keep it simple.  

So first step; insulation and Fantastic fan.
Question: should I install the fan first? Even if I have no way to plug it in (except for the 12v van plug in)?

Insulation: I saw someone, maybe on YouTube, maybe on this forum, where a guy used "FatMat Sound Deadener" first, then on top of that used foam insulation. Then I saw someone else use Reflectix first, then glued yoga mats to it as a sound deadener, and then he finished it off with another layer of Reflectix. So I wonder if anyone knows if in fact those yoga mats really work good as a sound deadener, or would FatMat be a better option? If FatMat is the better option, should I apply it first or should I apply Reflictix first, then FatMat to it, then a few more layers?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Also anyone near the tri-state border of NY, NJ and PA willing to opine in person would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all!


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Nice van! I just used Nashua foil tape to attach 1/2" and 1" styrofoam to the bare walls of my van. (see 1989 Dodge High Top thread) and it works fine.

The installation of the Endless Breeze fan is just plugging in the cigarette lighter cord and using it. You can wire an extra 12vdc socket in the back or use a ready made extension cord available on Amazon.com. I think it's $10.00 for 10 feet, shipping included.
 
Pretty sure fat mat and other sound control pads go to the bare metal. It's pricy to do all the van. I used fat mat up front and poor mans mat (ice water barrier) elsewhere. No regrets after a year plus. Also added Refletix and styrofoam (Dow - no mess trimming). I'm sure there is a hundred ways to get to a quiet insulated van.
 
66788,
Thanks for the tips!


Bdog1,
The guy did use FatMat on the bare metal, but I wonder if I could use it on the back of Reflectix. The FatMax's sticky side is all black and I'm afraid it would attract heat in, while Reflectix would reflect heat out.
 
84 Lumber has the cheapest sound proofing in your area. Pre-order. Was $84/pack. This is the same stuff they use in the New York City recording studios. It is bulky and you will have very little cubic feet left, but I guess you thought of this. If money is not an issue, Green Glue is the best product, the smallest profile, and will fill in gaps well.
 
In your picture, it looks like you already have rubber flooring in the back which most cargo vans don't. If it does, your floor may be good to go as is.

If your van has rain gutters, I would mount solar to that rather than the roof itself. You may be able to get a no drill rack even if it doesn't have gutters.

Since your van has no holes in the roof, I would keep it that way.
 
Off Grid,
I was considering removing the carpet and instal sound deadener and insulation, then playwood with wood flooring or vinyl to finish it off. I'm just afraid the rubber mat won't have enough insulation.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Being a new van, I'd be very careful as to any modifications. If you tap into the charging system for a house battery you may be voiding your warranty. Drilling holes in any of the body panels, like for solar wire routing may void any rust warranty. Read your warranty papers carefully.
 
I'm going to begin my built with insulation and a Mr Fantastic fan with rain sensor.
Would it be a good idea to use FatMax sound deadener first right to bare metal then Reflectix, then 1" foam board insulation, and then Reglectix?
Does anyone have a different view? I've read the advice many of you have given, but now that I have the van and I'm finally ready to start I want to make sure I do it right.

In the near future I'll be installing solar panels mounted to a roof rack and plywood. I'm usually laid-off in the winter and I'm even thinking of driving to Arizona wind and solar to buy all my supplies. I'll need of course a knowledgeable person to help with the install (thinking of Bob Wells), I'll even feed him/them a filling lunch! : )
Just kidding. I would pay whatever fair price someone charges me.
So this leads me to the following question regarding roof racks; should I buy steel or aluminum? 2 or 3 pieces?
Thanks all for the kind replies!
 
Before you go solar roof mount you need to realize that you will need to park in the sun for it to work.

From the looks of it you are much like myself employed seasonally in the Pocono’s and a winter snowbird.

My snowbird plans are to spend 80% of the winter months in the free campgrounds northeast of Tampa. http://www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/recreation/camping.php

They all have non-potable water and a portable outhouse.

All these campgrounds are close (10 miles or less one way) to civilization AKA Wal-Mart and Anytime fitness.

Since the camping is free the $40/month fitness membership is real cheap.

My thoughts are to leave camp at about noon go to Wal-Mart, then anytime fitness for a workout then a private shower on a daily basis to break up the boredom of just sitting under an oak tree all day.

So I plan to go with just a dual battery setup using the 4.3V6 engine in my truck to charge the house battery.
 
Mr.LooRead,
Thanks for the reply and ideas.
I work full time with heavy equipment in Jersey and have/had a house in pa
 
If you go solar.... make it so you can quickly detach the panel and add a set of fold out legs to it....you can then take a 25 ' heavy extention cord and make your panels portable.....you park in the shade and your panels in the sun!!!.........I have this setup on my RV and it makes for a good day of power without the rv sitting in the sun!!
 
Mike,
Thanks for the idea. Maybe one day when I retire I'll get a small rv, then again I just might like my van set up.
 
I find that it would be a challenge to live off grid in NJ in the summer.

A new roof AC might be a better choice over a fan. I would think you would want to find a place to park with electric near your work and then head for higher elevations on the weekend.

Without knowing your exact needs and if your new truck is an eight lug model you could buy a used 17-22’ travel trailer for about the same price of converting your new van.

You could lease a seasonal site right on the Delaware River then tow the trailer to Fla. And then lease a three point site in a commercial camp and never leave the comforts of home behind all year.
 
Mr.LooRead said:
I find that it would be a challenge to live off grid in NJ in the summer.

A new roof AC might be a better choice over a fan. I would think you would want to find a place to park with electric near your work and then head for higher elevations on the weekend.

Without knowing your exact needs and if your new truck is an eight lug model you could buy a used 17-22’ travel trailer for about the same price of converting your new van.

You could lease a seasonal site right on the Delaware River then tow the trailer to Fla. And then lease a three point site in a commercial camp and never leave the comforts of home behind all year.

I have no choice but to live off the grid as soon as I complete the modifications on the van, as I'm tied to a union hall and even when I'm off in the winter, I never know how long I'll be out of work, could be a couple weeks, could be a few months. But when they tell me I need to be at work the next day, the next day I must be at work. So going anywhere for a long period of time wouldn't work for me.
When I do the solar though, I can tell them I need to be off for two or three weeks, that should be long enough to go to Arizona and back, unless I find someone near me.
My off grid will only be for when I'm working. On the weekends I'll be staying in the Poconos either at my house (for the time being) or eventually I'll buy a piece of land and park there.
 
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Finally was able to begin. Spent a few hours at Lowes then Home Depot, then to a different Lowes, and finally another Home Depot. Bought some supplies but it was seven thirty in the evening by the time I got back home. By then I wasn't feeling like doing anything but go in the house and relax. But I couldn't go in without first begin the build.
Starting in the rear drivers side, I cut a piece of Reflectix. I then sprayed 3M super 77 on the wall and on the Reflectix piece, immediately applying it to the wall. I can say -being my first time using this adhesive- it leaves very little time to rearrange whatever you are trying to glue together, in this case, the Reflectix.
I also bought; foil tape to use in the joints between pieces, 3/4 pink panther rigid foam R-4, one water container, and one luggable loo for $12 and change.
I was going to use FatMat sound deadener but the amount I needed and the cost just weren't compatible. Also thought of sandwiching yoga mats between the Reflectix but again the prices on those mats and the amount needed, was just off the roof.
So between getting ready for a garage sell this weekend I hope to adhere some more Reflectix.
No turning back! Well, maybe I still could. Anyone know a good glue remover? : )
 
Sorry to be late answering but the Reflectix MUST have a 1/2 inch air gap between it and the sheet metal to work well. Glued directly to the wall it has an R value of 1, which is very low.

I insulated the floor of my first van in Alaska, but none of my other rigs. You just can't keep the floor warm and I've accepted that. The floor is basically going to be outside temperature and so very little heat is being lost through it.

The Fantastic Fan is a great idea, but just having a vent is worth it, so do it right away even if you can't plug it in. If memory serves, it comes with bare wires. You can always use butt connectors and extend the wire and put a cigarette lighter plug on the end and plug it into the van. Until then you can use portable 12 volt fans which you will want anyway.

Bob
 
akrvbob said:
Sorry to be late answering but the Reflectix MUST have a 1/2 inch air gap between it and the sheet metal to work well. Glued directly to the wall it has an R value of 1, which is very low.

I insulated the floor of my first van in Alaska, but none of my other rigs. You just can't keep the floor warm and I've accepted that. The floor is basically going to be outside temperature and so very little heat is being lost through it.

The Fantastic Fan is a great idea, but just having a vent is worth it, so do it right away even if you can't plug it in. If memory serves, it comes with bare wires. You can always use butt connectors and extend the wire and put a cigarette lighter plug on the end and plug it into the van. Until then you can use portable 12 volt fans which you will want anyway.

Bob

I think it might be too late to change it now. But here's my plan: Reflectix against the van walls. Then two layers of 3/4 foam board, fallowed by more Reflectix.
Or -just thought of this now- Reflectix, foam, Reflectix, foam, and possibly another layer of Reflectix. Would that be better?

Thanks!


Luisafernandes said:
I think it might be too late to change it now. But here's my plan: Reflectix against the van walls. Then two layers of 3/4 foam board, fallowed by more Reflectix.
Or -just thought of this now- Reflectix, foam, Reflectix, foam, and possibly another layer of Reflectix. Would that be better?

Thanks!

If I use all that should I still apply a vapor barrier (plastic)?
 
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