2000 Chevy Express project

[dvdchris]

Ah, I can't take credit for the idea. I found these people http://www.traipsingabout.com/adventure-mobile/ that used it for sections of their van build last fall.

 

[dvdchris]

After removing the rotted foam from these sections, there were huge gaps to the outside.

I found this on clearance at Walmart for $3.

[size=medium]It fit very well into the empty gap here. [/size]

Silicone sealed and filled with gap filler

 

[dvdchris]

Got some more done this weekend. Drivers side wall mostly insulated using the other water heater blanket; and got some furring boards installed.

Power panels back up.

Last section, out of water heater blanket pieces. Used a regular cotton insulation batt. Will finish it up tomorrow.

 

[akrvbob]

Looks great!
Bob

 

[stude53]

Yeah, looks good.

Don't forget to put a vapor barrier over that last piece of insulation before you cover it up.

Bob

 

[Simran]

you're doing great work here; you'll have a nice cozy home when you're through. That was a good lick running into the tip on using those water heater blankets.

 

[dvdchris]

Yeah, looks good.

Don't forget to put a vapor barrier over that last piece of insulation before you cover it up.

Bob

You got it!
There's two Bobs?

 

[stude53]

Chris,
There are a lot of Bobs, on the forum as members, as well as generally in the population.
I guess our parents lacked imagination. ;>)

 

[Westycamper]

anyone have a link on taking off the door locks and replacing them ,

I am not sure who has keys for my 2000 Express and would like to change them out,

thanks for the help

 

[dvdchris]

Got this side done today.

Anybody that wants a best practice idea on installing batts on van walls, here you go. I position the batt, then place little bungee cords to hold it against the wall so it wont fall down. Let the top flap down, spray your adhesive, then glue and tape the top in place. Roll up the unglued portion and hold it with a bungee. Repeat sections of adhesive and rolling down/taping in place. I spray a section, then leave the van for a full minute. You do not want to breathe adhesive fumes. From what I've read, fumes from adhesives are some of the nastiest stuff you can breathe.

 

[dvdchris]

Started laying down the foam reflective layer on the floor today. Will not have quite enough of this material, I ordered another roll. I will have plenty to make some window sun blockers.

 

[dvdchris]

Now that I have the drivers wall insulated...I'm wondering about the wiring that is now behind the insulation running along the upper edge of the wall. It is 12 volt wiring that goes to the brake lights. It is wrapped up all the way in electrical tape and held up with nylon cable clamps. Sections between clamps were wrapped in spiral cable wrap. You can see the wire at the top edge of this picture.
Does anybody think this will present a problem?

 

[dvdchris]

Ok, have a TV mount sort of figured out, without drilling any holes.
Two 1/4" toggle bolts inserted into the openings above and below a furring board with the toggle wings opened on the other side to secure mount. Removable at any time. Also with this mount, I can easily remove TV for more secure placement during a trip.
http://amzn.com/B003O1UYHG

Also, this happened inadvertently when cutting a trim piece of foam to fit.

 

[decodancer]

You insulation looks worried... Enjoy the thread, always happy to see new updates.

 

[dvdchris]

I've finished out the insulation on this side and installed the furring boards.

I want to extend the outlet from the old location up higher above where my mattress will be. I bought new 12 gauge wire for this run. I pulled the conduit out to ease pushing the wire through the last bend.

I know this would not pass code if inspected...but in my opinion is better than they had it before, which was the metal outlet box was just installed onto the wall panel and not anchored in any real way behind. I extended the conduit up to the desired location with PVC conduit and the only plastic work box that fit in this install. There is no exposed wiring from the conduit to the work box. I have it tied down with a zip tie right now to keep it from moving around. If anyone sees anything they think is unsafe, please yell at me.

 

[akrvbob]

Wow, you are really doing a great job! Thanks for the detailed photos!
Bob

 

[dvdchris]

Thank you Bob.
Time to finish wiring everything.
Stripping wires into breaker box

Everything hooked up correctly and tightened up. Breakers removed, cleaned and visually inspected.

After unscrewing the power inlet to make absolutely sure it was wired correctly after I replaced it now weeks ago (and remembering since it is a male plug, the hot and neutral are wired opposite than you think at first glance...)
Plugging in shore power

No sparks...so far so good...turn on breaker to outlet...no fires...
and....

Houston we have liftoff

 

[Simran]

Nice! that all ought to be up to code . . . if there is a code for vans

 

[dvdchris]

Got most of this side done today laying down silver foam insulation.

When laying this down, I realized when I was filling screw holes in the floor, I filled one that should have a bolt in it since the frame carrying the generator should be bolted there. It was removed during the floor removal mess. oops

Two new bolts in place now. To prevent generator fall-off. If your generator falls off your van, tell your doctor.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

How about Nylox nuts on those genny mounting bolts???