1994 Class A chassis electrical issue

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highdesertranger said:
Ok I would like to add that I was getting discouraged.  It seems you were ignoring important advice.  But I believe it's because of your lack of knowledge so I will try again.

First off you can not tell if a fuse or a fusible link is bad by looking at it.  Sometimes it's obvious but sometimes it's not and it will look good but it's not.

I searched on you tube and found many videos of people giving bad advice on how to check fuses and fusible links.  However I found this short video that gives a good explanation of how to check both.  Please watch this and follow the advice given then come back and tell us what you found.



Make sure you check all the fuse links.  That one on the starter is a fusible link,  check it.  Don't just look at it check it.

Highdesertranger

Crawled under by the starter again...hooked the light up probe to a good ground on the frame and touched that end of the wire..it lit up... Did the same under the hood for all of the fuse links on that block in the picture... They all lit up
 
Rhianntp said:
Crawled under by the starter again...hooked the light up probe to a good ground on the frame and touched that end of the wire..it lit up... Did the same under the hood for all of the fuse links on that block in the picture... They all lit up
Unless you unhooked the positive cable from that starter, your test light is going to light when you touch the good ground because that cable and your fusible link are connected to the same terminal on that end, right? If i'm correct, the only way to test that fusible link is by touching the unconnected other end of it with your test light with the light connected to a good ground.
 
Okay, the posts on the firewall should be the other end of the fuse links, and yes you are simply verifying power at the starter. Time to look inside where the posts are on the inside and check them to see if they go to the fuse box as they should and have power and check the fuses for power.
On the other end with the tests with the socket You took the wires apart at the wire nut that went to the ground on the frame and connected to the metal in the socket. You should have had continuity from the socket metal to the wire you took apart. You should have had continuity from the other wire in the wire nut to the frame. If either one of those had no continuity there would be no ground for the light to light, so that needs to be fixed. Neither of the pins at the bottom of the socket should have continuity with the frame, if one does there is a short as well that needs fixed and there should possibly be a blown fuse.
 
There is the neg wire I took off the socket
 

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There is tone from bare metal to socket side where bulb is secured, there is tone to one of the prongs inside the socket, there is tone to the wire where the socket neg was connected, there is tone from the socket side where bulb grounds to the wire that used to be connected to the neg socket wire, There is no tone to one of the prongs inside the socket, and there is tone and big resistance number from the white neg wire that is dangling from the socket to the prong inside the socket opposite the one which gave tone to the bare metal
 
Most likely you have a shorted out socket, since you should have had no continuity between the metal of the socket and either of the two pins in the bottom. That socket needs to be checked where the wires come out of the back of the socket and where the wire is soldered on to the metal in the socket as well or just get rid of the wire nuts making sure you label the wires and take the socket to the auto parts store and get a new one and some butt connectors/heat shrink tubing or you can solder/heat shrink tube the new socket to install it properly then verify your repair by testing it for a good frame ground to the metal in the new socket and no continuity to either of the pins in the bottom and the metal in the socket again.
 
This is what that side looks like
 

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The green wire hanging down was connected to the white wire of the socket and the brown hanging down was connected to the brown of the socket
 
It's not the socket as it only behaves that way when it's wired up.. I removed it completely and got no continuity by testing the socket with itself
 
I just read post #166 and #167 so for now mark and disconnect the other two wires to the socket after marking them so you know which one came from where. Strip a little insulation off those two wires so you can attach your lead. Use your adaptor clip to your black lead and touch your red lead to the wires you just stripped one at a time and test for continuity. Do the same with the wire that was attached to the white wire that is already bare. From now on we need to start identifying wires by color. Let me know what you get. You should have one grounded to the frame, one that gets battery power when the running lights are on and one the gets battery power when the brakes are applied/intermittently when the turn for that side or hazard lights are on.
 
Ok I have these 4 bare wires dangling now on the right rear side..please confirm exactly what you want me to connect to what
 

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For reference these are the wires of the other side
 

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Okay the problem is while I am trying to post you a getting ahead of me. First in the photo before this one there was another socket. Was it a running light or reverse light, is there a white or clear section in that lens cover? Please lets take turns posting. I'll wait for your answer.
 
I feel like Ralph macchio and you guys are a whole dojo full of meagees
 
I need a picture of the driver's side where the wires go to both sockets, there in the previous driver's side picture was a yellow wire I didn't see on the passenger side. It appears 4 wires come to the drivers side a green, a brown, a black, a white and a yellow. They are in wire nuts with a set of wires that are fed to the passenger side. On the driver's side there should be a ground wire to the frame, a left brake light, a tail light and a reverse light. Most likely they ran the passenger side brake light down the drivers side as well so 5 wires on the driver's side the odd yellow would be the driver's side brake light. 1 wire on the passenger's side which would not be connected to the driver's side sockets as it is the passenger's side brake light that just passes through the driver side. The ground wire would be attached to both sockets on both sides, what color is it? I await the picture.
 
There ya go... The black went to the POS of the reverse light and you can see that the loose green tied in to the grounds from the reverse light
 

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Maybe the previous owner shellacked the *&!$ out of wiring back there
 
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