1994 Class A chassis electrical issue

[Rhianntp]

I think I can resurrect the sockets by cleaning them up real nice to ensure good contact at all points. I have all new bulbs for them and I intend to make those connections proper with no wire nuts. Tomorrow I'm just going to disconnect the driver side sockets and the 3rd brake light socket as well. Might as well not worry about the sockets until we know the wiring is legit and whatever controls the 3rd brake light is fixed/deleted.   :thumbsup:

 

[bullfrog]

A ground, as long as it is a good ground works for anything. It is just a path back to the negative post of the battery. Things that are added on should have their own wires and fuses but you can run any ground to the frame. The one of the problems with wire nuts are they are not water and air tight and the wire turns black with non-conductive corrosion and no longer connect. The White ground wires need to be tested for continuity to the shinny frame and once we get down to just the wires coming from the front to the rear driver's side we need make sure any other bulbs are out or disconnected from the running light circuit so we can test for shorts by putting the red lead to the brown wire and the black lead to the shinny frame with no power on.to test for continuity to the shinny frame which would be a short if connected, then set the meter to 12 volts and turn the running lights on and test for battery power. Next move the red lead to the yellow wire and apply the brakes and check for battery power, then move over to the odd Green wire that is the passenger's side brake and test for 12 volts there as well.

 

[Rhianntp]

This sounds good. Tomorrow I'll undo the wire nuts and cut off all the exposed wires and re-strip every wire so they are all clean. First week of August we have a trip to go on. Here's to hoping this can be resolved long before that 

 

[bullfrog]

We are getting close, the wire nuts may be part of the problem.

 

[highdesertranger]

The third brake light gets it power straight from the brake light switch BEFORE the power goes to the blinker switch. That is why it doesn't flash.

Did you pull all the bulbs then test?

Highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

Explained and requested in post#203. Getting everything labeled and wire nuts out of there and cleaning up sockets as well. It's been a process. Lol!!! Virtual mechanics is no place for old men! Lol!!!

 

[Rhianntp]

The third brake light gets it power straight from the brake light switch BEFORE the power goes to the blinker switch.  That is why it doesn't flash.

Did you pull all the bulbs then test?

Highdesertranger

I'll be doing all that later today

 

[Rhianntp]

Explained and requested in post#203. Getting everything labeled and wire nuts out of there and cleaning up sockets as well. It's been a process. Lol!!! Virtual mechanics is no place for old men! Lol!!!

Little by little we getting it done.. might be the longest thread in history before it's done 

 

[Rhianntp]

Ok removed all those sockets ... Isolated the wires that go up to the top lights .. isolated the wires that go down to kids plate light...etc...tests appear to have the same result

 

[Rhianntp]

The POS and Neg wires that go up top have continuity with each other...the brown and white of the turn- brake fixture also have continuity with each other

 

[Rhianntp]

I guess it makes sense that the upper lights and the brown wire have the same issue...they all are supposed to light at same time as running lights

 

[Rhianntp]

The grounds have 12 volts on them when lights are on

 

[Rhianntp]

Once all the bulbs are out you could also check the the brake light circuit and see if it works.  Highdesertrange

If I touch the yellow wire to ground with the brake pedal pushed it lights up the side markers...same on the other side with green wire and ground

 

[bullfrog]

If the grounds have 12 volts they are not connected to the negative post of the battery. Take a piece of wire or an extension cord and connect it to the negative post of the battery and bring it to the rear of the bus and attach the ground wires to it. Then we will know for sure we have a complete ground circuit. Make sure no other wires are touching the grounds You will blow a fuse, use your test light or multimeter.

 

[Rhianntp]

With pedal down any of the Pos brake wires touched to white wires lights up the running lights

 

[Rhianntp]

If the grounds have 12 volts they are not connected to the negative post of the battery. Take a piece of wire or an extension cored and connect it to the negative post of the battery and bring it to the rear of the bus and attach the ground wires to it. Then we will know for sure we have a complete ground circuit.

Ok brb

 

[bullfrog]

Do not do that as once we get a good ground it will have a direct path other than the running lights to the negative terminal of the battery and blow a fuse which is why it is lighting the running lights now going backwards through the running lights. Use your test light between the yellow and white wires and press the petal. It should light. Same with the green. With the running lights on and your test light between the brown and white it should light.

 

[Rhianntp]

When I connected the wire direct from the battery back to a bulb and touched any of the brake lights wires to the POS side of the bulb it lights up

 

[Rhianntp]

Awaiting further orders

 

[bullfrog]

Attach a test light to the brown wire and the white wire with the running lights on it should light up.