Ok.. with pedal pressed the brake light comes on along with the side marker lights which are very dim...there is also a low voltage on the prong opposite the brake light POS prong inside the socket...while pressing the brake pedal if you turn on the lights at the dash it kills the brake lights ...similar to how the turn signal stops if brake is applied
1994 Class A chassis electrical issue
- Thread starter Rhianntp
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That voltage should light a bulb... assuming you have a complete circuit to ground, which I'm sure you don't. You need to locate all the ground connections and clean them to shiny metal. While there, check to make sure the wire isn't corroded in the connectors.
Okay you definitely have a back feed problem. As a temporary repair/ test run a wire from the negative terminal or metal side of the light socket or the wire that is ground and touch it to the bare metal frame. While holding it there try your light again and see if they light correctly.
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The old 1157 lamp has a possible weird failure mode where one filament burns out and fuses to the second....
that could weakly combine the Running lights and Flashing/Stop lights
The running light fuse is bad......Look hard at the existing fuse blocks to identify factory "lights" and test the fuses for continuity
Revisit the "splices" or modifications you made to insure they are correct
that could weakly combine the Running lights and Flashing/Stop lights
The running light fuse is bad......Look hard at the existing fuse blocks to identify factory "lights" and test the fuses for continuity
Revisit the "splices" or modifications you made to insure they are correct
Wire nuts may be your problem as they are not waterproof and corrode over time turning the wire black. If you were taking your measurements from the dual bulb socket both inside terminal contacts are positive contacts, the bulb is grounded through the metal socket that holds the bulb which is usually grounded to the metal housing or bolts it mounts with. On a fiberglass body they need a wire to connect that ground to the bare metal frame and individual ground wires from single element lights as well. If before installing the test wire you have no ground you will probably read DC voltage between the metal bulb holder socket and the frame. The test wire should be held against the metal socket and the bare metal frame while trying the lights.
Can only find one fuse block and a small add on block to the left of the steering column under the dash .. haven't been able to locate any other fuse blocks under the "hood" or anywhere else... where are all the relays and engine fuses? Perhaps if I ever find that set of fuses there will be one blown. Every fuse in the fuse block I have found are good... I pulled them all and re-seated them even. None of the bulbs have corrosion issues or fused filaments.abnorm said:
Make sure you know which ones are suppose to be negative. If unsure post a picture of the bulb terminals and the empty sockets they plug into. You could also check a wiring diagram for wiring color codes or use your continuity function on the bulb to find which terminals on the bulb has continuity with the one that normally receives power and locate it in the socket. Make sure it has continuity to what ever you hook the ground to.
Please, please, please remember this is just a temporary repair/test not to be taken down the road. There are wires already there somewhere mounted to the frame by a stud or more likely bolt and nut or screw that is loose or rusted or broken. If this works then you need to find, clean and repair them properly. Wire nuts are not the way. Crimped or soldered terminals with heat shrink and conductive anti-corrosion coating should be used to properly make permanent repairs. More than likely if you hook up a ground incorrectly to a positive you will blow a fuse. Going down the road not knowing where the fuse box is is just asking for a huge towing/repair bill. Follow the harness, look under the dash and find the fuse box.
highdesertranger
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I told you that wire off the starter is a fuse link, Have you tested it? it should split into two fuse links. Post a pic of your fuse block.
Highdesertranger
Highdesertranger
Google search pictures of GM or Intruder RV fuse block so you Know what to look for. Most motorhome manufacturers used the factory fuse block that came with the GM chassis but usually added an additional one or had a bus bar to incorporate their custom lighting and accessories. The power coming in from the fuse links wires should lead to the fuse block inside the vehicle under the dash usually on the inside firewall or kick panels. The headlight and ignition switch should have larger wire bundles that lead back to the fuse block so using a flashlight laying on you driver's side footwell looking up, a turn signal/hazard flasher is usually mounted on or nearby. Turn on a turn signal and listen and look in the area you hear the noise it makes (Oh Wow Flash back!!! I just remembered I had a flasher that played "Love Me Tinder" like a music box when the signal was activated! LOL!!!). If nothing else light up the under dash/firewall area and take pictures and post them, the better and more pictures the better.
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