1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van for an unconventional guy

[debit.servus]

This was on the other "old" forum at [dead link]

Here are my as-of-writing posts from the other forum thread.

I received a 1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van that already has been fitted out. On the inside is has a back seat that converts to a bed, which I desire to place a real bed inside and remove the backseat. It has a pump sink with a runoff outside, which I plan to install a greywater tank for. It also has a propane/12v/120v AC fridge which I don't know how to operate yet. Inside the van there is a single deep-cycle which I haven't figured out how to tap into when not plugged into shore power. There is an overhead storage cabinet over the front drivers seat and between the rear doors & rear side windows. There is also a propane stove-top which I ripped out to clean, and broke a solid copper pipe which was to deliver the propane. These amenities are fine for the average part-timer and vacationer, they are inadequate for a full timer. Being an unconventional guy, I will be modifying the interior to match my desires. The outside currently looks like an average camper van; complete with grates, hookups, and camper style windows. My desire is to stealthily, by making power-coated exterior panels to cover up the rear side windows for stealth situations, along with painting the whole outside white with the exterior receiving a facelift. Since it has surface rust, faded paint & stripe stickers, as well as worn out window stripping. The outside will require new weather & window stripping, surface rust ground, and a new white paint job to look nicer in neighborhoods where the median property tax is the cost of my whole monetary monthly living expenses. It is dark as I write this post and I do plan to take pictures to show my fellow mobile dwellers tomorrow when it's daylight.

What do you think about my powder-coated panel idea, removable panels to place on the exterior of the van for stealth situations? Also, does anyone have specific advice about the type of engine and mechanical parts for a 1986 Dodge B-250?

_Update Nov 14th, Today I ripped out old faded and outdated plastic & cover-up paneling; along with the back fan unit below the upper storage cabinet. Wow! I can't believe how much wasted space these so-called high-end components took up. Experienced so much dead space & junk that conventional RV type people would pay top monetary figures for! I plan to remove more of these outdated accessories & components and replace them with things my generation would be proud of.

 

[Van-Tramp]

The B250 has either a 318ci or 360ci V8 motor. Go get your oil changed and ask the tech, he can tell you easy enough. My 89 B250 extended has the same options. Based on the fact that it is an extended van, my first guess would be the larger 360ci motor (same as mine).

Parts (engine and chassis) for these vans are very common and very cheap, however interior RV-type parts are not as easily found. You may be tossing something of great need later down the road, just be aware of that.

Good luck and have fun

 

[debit.servus]

Here are some pictures from the modifications I accomplished last night.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/RubixCS/embed/slideshow/Van modifications process"></iframe>

 

[debit.servus]

Progress on the interior of the van has been "set aside", due to electrical and engine problems. Me and my dad replaced the weak alternator (65 FRNs), with a new one. My dad also took it to a mechanic where it was discovered there were blown fuses and shoddy with the electrical system, so the mechanic repaired that. (650 FRNs). Me and my dad also replaced the carburetor, which helped the engine run like it should sound (300 FRNs). Still having issues when driving the van. The van will run fine after being parked for an extended period, however the engine has been dying as it travels, and it will come back alive after restarting the ignition. So it seems like there is an issue with fuel delivery, or the tubes/hoses leading from the gas tank to the fuel pump, or to the carburetor. FRNs are "Federal Reserve" Notes, aka dollars for those who think they are completely free. I just know mechanical repairs and fixes are cheaper than this! To afford an auto does not require being able to afford having an open bottle of champagne in the cupholder! It's not a boat! Having an auto does not mean always Breaking Out Another Thousand in the current paradigm.

Anyway this is an update for my progress so far, I haven't been able to focus on interior mods because of mechanical issues.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Hang in there, it will get better once you weed through the normal BS.

BTW - Sounds like your fuel filter is getting clogged. Particles settle when it sits for a few, but as you drive they clog up the filter. Sit for a while and the settle again. Start up and the clog again. Easy and cheap fix (do it yourself if you can). That is the key; learn to do these things yourself and you will save 90% of all maintenance costs.

 

[Patrick46]

Hang in there, it will get better once you weed through the normal BS.

BTW - Sounds like your fuel filter is getting clogged. Particles settle when it sits for a few, but as you drive they clog up the filter. Sit for a while and the settle again. Start up and the clog again. Easy and cheap fix (do it yourself if you can). That is the key; learn to do these things yourself and you will save 90% of all maintenance costs.

Great advice!! ^^^

I'd also start a regular regime of running Gumout through your gas for the next few tank fulls. Hopefully, this'll help clear out any build-up in the gas lines. (oh, and do change that filter too!)

 

[Zil]

I have a 1987 B250. I put Stable with the plus grade gas fill up last tank, noticeable improvement. But my van not stalling, actually ran well enough before.
Next is many oil changes to help quiet valve lifters. Van sat for a while. Replace EGR valve to even the loping engine.

 

[greybeard23]

If you are going to be using gasoline with ethanol and it sets in your tank for awhile, you need to be using Startron. You can find it in the marine section of Walmart. Don't buy it at an auto parts store. Costs the same for half as much. It is live enzymes that eat the sludge that ethanol creates and takes care of the water it attracts. Most all other additives, including Stabile, are alcohol, not much sense in adding alcohol to alcohol.

Also, noisy lifters, the best stuff I have found is Rislone. The stuff does wonders.

 

[Donedirtcheap]

If your fuel filter is of the 3 fitting design be sure that the vapor return fitting on the filter is at the highest point. So air/vapor can rise to the top side of the filter and out the vent line. Being tipped to the side or bottom can cause air in the system and bogging/poor accel/stalling

 

[debit.servus]

I took out the front seat in the van and realized how much added space to be had, I plan to clean the front seat and mount it back in so my future boyfriend can sit next to me while we travel together. I've realized the usefulness of hanging things in the van instead of stowing them away. I envision an open air closet to hang clothes above the travelers side camper-style window, also known as the left side along with strong permanently mounted hooks to hang bags, baskets & other things. I realize the freedom a full bed brings with the possible sleeping positions, however I do not desire to keep the folded down seat & back platform arrangement. The idea is to divide the back in three, with two bed platforms adjacent to both camper-style windows. Two removable panel could flip over to a hard table side independently creating a dinette type seating area. Since I am an unconventional guy my idea is to have the space so I could be sitting on an area of either of the bed platform, with one panel removed and flipped so my future boyfriend can sleep within arms distance. He could even sleep in on one portion of the bed while I am eating on the dinette-type panels.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...an modifications process/2013-Dec-15 Van mods"></iframe>

 

[debit.servus]

Good progress was accomplished with the van over the last two days. Yesterday I accomplished step 1 of a "major mod", which was to remove the back seat/bed along with the floor divider behind the seat/bed with has a fold-over portion which converts into a platform over the freshwater tank & deep-cycle battery chest. The bolts holding down the seat were hard to reach under the van & difficult to remove without another person with a wrench securing the nut so a ratchet can unbolt from inside the van. This I only discovered after trying to ratchet loose the bolt from inside to no avail. It was difficult but I accomplished it, even at night with inadequate lighting under the van in 50 degree cold here in California. That night I just moved tools & things aside so I could sleep in the van. I placed two couch cushions & a camping pad down along with a mattress cover over the camping pad, with the thick blankets & bedding. I had bad sleep waking up during sunrise & falling asleep until before noon. Today I placed a bedroom door where the back seat/bed used to be to serve as a temporary bed platform. The bedroom door is supported by a milk crate, the now-broken press&plywood deep-cycle battery chest (had to smash the wood so the ground wire could be freed & the wood side of the box with the deep cycle leads since I didn't feel like accomplishing it right), and some red bricks. This temporary bed platform will be until there are enough monetary figures to acquire solid lumber which is my desired material to fabricate the permanent bed platform. Here are some pictures I uploaded to PHOTOBUCKET to show the process.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...ations process/2013-Dec-21 - major mod step 1"></iframe>

 

[c_hasbeen]

sure feels good doing something like this doesn't it?

 

[debit.servus]

lots of progress has been accomplished on the van, so much that it deserves a list:
(in no particular order)
/ripped out dirty carpet, front cab and back until the end of back captains chair.
/removed a interior bubble top upper panel along with ripping a portion of felt glue cover on ceiling around cab.
/removed wall & restrictive door for above-cab storage cabinet. This required cutting the thermostat wires for the propane heater.
/dismantled door-handles which were rusted chrome. Sandblasted door handles then powder-coated handles in clear finish. I also performed the same process on heater intake/exhaust pipes so it looks like I care for the van.
/as above, attempted to restore rear-view mirrors, which I broke the glass in dismantling plastic and glass faceplate from mirrors. Subsequently discovered the main displayable components are made of plastic, so I decided to just buy new mirrors when the monetary figures are there.
/dismantled A/C, heater controls on cab console. I thought about remaking controls in new laser-etched and cut molds then realized AC/Heat controls will look just as good with a simple custom-etched faceplate.
/placed mattress from my parents house room into van on temporary bed platform.
/cut poster type backing wood for temporary blackout panels. I plan to fashion custom metal bars to hold in place, along with black spray paint on outer-facing side.
/unscrewed & dismantled steps on rear side door, front cab doors.
/ripped old faded brown paneling from passenger cab door, along with part of drivers side to access screws to dismantle door.
/screwed in power strip near rear airplane tray table, very useful.
/installed rear-view backup camera along with inverter, 2-channel DVR, started holes on bumper for backup radar sensors.
/sanded down rust on the lip of hood, which I didn't have paint for. I covered it with shipping tape, which had water seep in during recent rain & rusted it again.
/unscrewed outer DOMETIC fridge grate to clean & re-paint, which didn't end up happening, attached with a few screws & duct tape to hold in place and keep rain out.

So I dismantled & broke a few things that weren't necessary. Which I now have to put back together to it's original state. Good news is the van is ok mechanically, the interior is a mobile construction site.

Now before classes at West Valley College started I was rushing mods to the point of not eating, getting week in the process. I was working to get the van modded as fast as possible for full-time living. Because I would push 2 or 3 different mods in a day. Which were hastily completed and came many cuts on my hands. Now instead I have a rule: One Mod a Day. Today I fixed two doors (rear side and passenger cab door). Tomorrow I plan to install a CB radio unit, the next day the antenna.

No pictures this time, this update is long overdue and I am sorry for it. I possibly will post some pictures after getting my data in order. I don't desire to be one of those who initially posts their van mods then drops off to gloat after they're completed. I hate those type of people who tear the have-nots down because the prestige auto-owner has the leg up when it comes to life.

 

[spd2918]

Keep up the good work! I know what it is like getting into a projects. I often have to be interrupted by my wife to be reminded to eat or drink water. Focus can be a good thing.

I agree with you that factory built RV interiors are substandard. I guess it is RV standard, but below my own standard. Particle board, plastic wood grain prints, shag carpeting; it's all nasty. What you are doing will allow you to use much more of the wasted space. I would never consider a factory camper unless I gutted the interior.

I redid the interior of slide in truck box camper. The brand (Four Wheel Campers) was known for good use of space, but I improved it and got ride of the heavy, cheap materials.

 

[debit.servus]

Let the images do the talking, a load of mods since the last photoset.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...ocess/2014-Apr-07 - For the discerning viewer"></iframe>


The van is sitting in the driveway for the past few weeks because of various electrical issues. The main electrical problem revolves around the spark plugs.

Today my friend Dillan came to the parked van for four hours, where we diagnosed the electrical system. I paid him 20FRN for four hours with 11FRN of gas to work on the engine. He replaced the charge coil controlling the spark plugs (13.60FRN). Dillan test-drove the van with me around the block, same issues. We (mostly Dillan, I AM learning) after further diagnosis of the electrical system "chain", discovered the distributor assembly was controlled by... A primitive computer! I am surprised, in 1986 a computer controlling the spark plugs? Of course the computer is a pocket calculator, I thought this van under the hood was just mechanical and analog circuits (think a remote control). Apparently not. Since the company who made the distributor computer I'm almost sure is a relic of the 80s, I am not even going to look into replacing it. Besides, cars shouldn't have computers in them.

Today I acquired a mechanical points-type distributor (with camshaft???). I had the OREILLY associate ship it from another farther OREILLY store in San Jose to the OREILLY I frequent. The local route truck would deliver it by 6 the associate informed me. After 6 in the evening I rode my bike to and from OREILLYs agai[/code]n to see the distributor assembly and ended up creating the purchase of the distributor assembly for 55FRN. Me and Dillan plan to meet up later this week and see to replace the part. I can hope this is the last part to replace to have a reliable and strong van like it was 10 years ago.

The van has electrical problems which my dad wasted money on, since I feel closer to fixing the problem by DIY. My dad wouldn't listened to me when I tried to explain the problems. He calls the van a money-pit, black hole (The van is a white hole) and insulted me for even mentioning how I plan to fix it. Yes the van as in the state it is now fits fine in Mexico with the landscape of shabby autos. The van will not be this way forever.

For anyone with a desire:

The van has electrical problems pertaining to the engine running. The van runs however it is unable to travel very far. The engine will dead stop after losing spark plug power within ten miles of starting the engine, when the van hasn't run for the day. (inspection of vehicle not running properly)

 

[user 423]

Your van has a Lean Burn System:

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/lean-burn.html

They weren't so good and can be replaced with the older electronic ignition system but it's a hassle. You probably don't want to use the ancient points-type distributor.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Are you sure it is losing SPARK after a few miles of driving? That really is left only up to the coil, which would be fairly inexpensive. After that, nothing else really controls the spark. other than the distributor distributing that spark to the plugs at the proper time.

In all my cars that "stopped after a few miles" it has always been the fuel system. Something as simple as some dirt in the fuel tank will clog the filters after a few miles of driving, then once you let it sit for a few minutes will start right up again... only to stop after a few miles again. Check those filters for debris and have the tank boiled out if needed.

 

[Simran]

If it is a fuel problem you should be able to get it to run right by spraying gas into the carb with a spray bottle. If you can get it running that way it is a fuel problem. If not it is an electrical problem. 80's Dodges are notorious for that little electrical thing going hay wire. I had a Dodge pickup that had it incorporated into the air breather. You really need to just find one, if it's bad, and replace it. Putting a points distributor in that van wouldn't be advisable. That's just my take. I drive, live in, an old 1975 Chevy hi top. These old vans are simple but you can complicate things by making mods like this.
Just my opinion.

 

[Zil]

Those old dodges! I love them. First check all vacuum lines and connections. The vacuum system is the first thing disconnected on those old ones. That year should have a electronic distributor, no points. This was dodges gift to automobiles. No better system for the time. Check your ballast resistor, another common problem. if yours has the dual resistor, both sides must work. Check that both pick up coils in the distributor are working, that the engine is not in "limp home mode". Look for a shop manual for your model on e bay.

 

[debit.servus]

...
You probably don't want to use the ancient points-type distributor.

That is what my friend Dillan recommended to simply bypass the ancient computer and go mechanical. I read the webpage behind the link you posted, A LOT of similarities. Overpasses and slight inclines are like mountains in limp mode. Dead stops resulting after running rough and rattling engine because of restricted underpowered sparks, after several miles of the engine losing speed under load.

...
In all my cars that "stopped after a few miles" it has always been the fuel system. Something as simple as some dirt in the fuel tank will clog the filters after a few miles of driving, then once you let it sit for a few minutes will start right up again...

I replaced the fuel filter, no difference. Maybe the fuel pump or fuel lines are part of the problem. I doubt it's the fuel. Besides the carburetor was replaced by me and my angry dad, which after replacement made the engine sound better. It didn't run better since I still have the same electrical issues.

...
Putting a points distributor in that van wouldn't be advisable. That's just my take. I drive, live in, an old 1975 Chevy hi top. These old vans are simple but you can complicate things by making mods like this.
Just my opinion.

You're right and that is what I try to avoid. It's not only the wasted Time & Energy it's the monetary figures I usually don't have to spare. I do have a CHILTON manual now titled "CHRYSLER - Full-Size Vans 1967-88".

...
Check your ballast resistor, another common problem. if yours has the dual resistor, both sides must work. Check that both pick up coils in the distributor are working, that the engine is not in "limp home mode".
...

I desire to diagnose, test(if possible) and replace the ballast resistor(s), before replacing the computer-controlled distributor assembly with the 1963 mechanical assembly. I will talk with Dilan today about it.