John61CT said:
I do the same thing.
But in my little world, I deal with lots of DC and RF...and us RF folks prefer to use at least 2 of the 3 grounding 'types':
Chassis.
Earth.
RF.
Wiring Diagram Review
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I do the same thing.
But in my little world, I deal with lots of DC and RF...and us RF folks prefer to use at least 2 of the 3 grounding 'types':
Chassis.
Earth.
RF.
BTW, most inverters are 'floating' ground, so the grounding recommendation in the manual is usually to help with minimizing RF emissions.
In other words, less likely to mess up your AM/FM, CB, TV, or Ham radio reception if the case of the inverter is grounded or bonded to the chassis of the vehicle.
In other words, less likely to mess up your AM/FM, CB, TV, or Ham radio reception if the case of the inverter is grounded or bonded to the chassis of the vehicle.
Trebor English
Well-known member
dgshelto said:
See post number 12. The alternator minus connection is through the bolts that attach the alternator case to the engine. That must be connected to the house battery minus side. You can run a wire from the house battery all the way to the alternator case and avoid using the chassis as a conductor but your house battery will still be grounded to the chassis at the alternator.
The plus side wire, actually two wires with a switch, needs fuse protection at both batteries. If you attach the engine end of the cjarging wire to the alternator instead of the battery you can use the already installed fusible link between the battery and the alternator to protect the wire from the starter battery.
It would be a good idea to verify that your charging wire can withstand the current level that the fusible link can sustain. Since your charging wire will be very fat it will probably be fine.
here is some information about fuses. https://marinehowto.com/fusing-termination-voltage-drop/
you may also want to use something like this. https://www.go2marine.com/product/247272F/blue-sea-systems-bus-bar-4-x-5-16-18-stud-terminal.html
you may also want to use something like this. https://www.go2marine.com/product/247272F/blue-sea-systems-bus-bar-4-x-5-16-18-stud-terminal.html
Canine
Well-known member
When I have nearly disparate wire sizes, I've stripped extra insulation off of the end of the small one then folded it over to make it bigger for crimping purposes. There are butt connectors that go from a larger gauge to a smaller one, but 6 awg to a 10 awg is a big jump.
The diagram looks perfect. I can't find a single thing wrong with it and I'm trying to be picky.
The diagram looks perfect. I can't find a single thing wrong with it and I'm trying to be picky.
Trebor English
Well-known member
Crimp terminals for #6 AWG can be bought. Crimp tools too.
Another approach is to buy a pair of wires from http://www.genuinedealz.com of just what you need. You need to know what ends and what wire and how long.
Another approach is to buy a pair of wires from http://www.genuinedealz.com of just what you need. You need to know what ends and what wire and how long.
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I still don't like the switch after the Solar controller......what is the purpose ?
and WHY use #6 fused at 30 amps to the fuse block.............I see VERY light loads .........what-cha-using the ciggy plugs (outlets) for??
Is #6 the largest size wire the inverter will accept ?
and WHY use #6 fused at 30 amps to the fuse block.............I see VERY light loads .........what-cha-using the ciggy plugs (outlets) for??
Is #6 the largest size wire the inverter will accept ?
dgshelto
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abnorm said:
I wanted a switch between the CC and the battery in case I need to cut power to the CC. If this isn't necessary I'm happy to scrap it and save a few bucks.
Ciggy plugs to charge phone and whatever other 12V appliances I might have. I agree, for the loads I've posted I might be better off with 10AWG and a smaller fuse.
Not sure about largest accepting wire size for inverter. 6AWG w/ 60A fuse is stated in the Xantrex user manual and I've confirmed this with their tech support.
That switch should be at the bank, or a Master bank switch as I described above, very handy when working on the House circuits, or if leaving the van for a while want to make **sure** not going to flatten the bank.
Ciggie ports are an abortion to be avoided for anything used regularly.
Never more than 5-6A and for short periods, even then risky.
Ciggie ports are an abortion to be avoided for anything used regularly.
Never more than 5-6A and for short periods, even then risky.
Just like the master fuse, closest thing to the bank, the master switch come just after, and should isolate from ALL loads.dgshelto said:
Also usually charge sources, but if in a location where someone other than yourself might turn Off, best to let sources that can be damaged by sudden cutoff, like alt output, bypass and attach directly to the post.
Also of course your dedicated voltage sense wires and temp sensors.
Why reduce the fuse to the fuse block? 6 awg can and should be fused for a lot more; fuse to protect the wire, reduce the voltage drop. I don't see the need for a switch to the fuse block. You can remove the fuse in the rare times you need to work on the circuit.
Yes you can put a lug on the 6 awg cable with a #10 hole that is 3/16 ". Go on here;;;and mess around with building cables. ;; http://www.genuinedealz.com/6-awg-custom-battery-cables
Blue Sea battery switches are the best. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/Manual_Battery_Switches
Yes you can put a lug on the 6 awg cable with a #10 hole that is 3/16 ". Go on here;;;and mess around with building cables. ;; http://www.genuinedealz.com/6-awg-custom-battery-cables
Blue Sea battery switches are the best. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/Manual_Battery_Switches
Canine
Well-known member
Having a master switch is OK. I've made some changes/additions to my system. When I do, I pull the fuses on the smaller items like the fridge and the fan. It takes more work to pull the fuses and keep track which ones go where, but it works. Since I live in my trailer, my concerns about the batteries dying are nearly nonexistent. Any time you add a switch or a fuse, you are adding resistance and a possible point of failure. If a switch or fuse isn't necessary, I don't put one in. Installing a master switch isn't wrong. If you want one, I say go for it. It does have value.
As far as having a switch on a charge controller, my manual says to "...make a crisp connection when attaching the wire." That is almost impossible for me to do without a switch. Since my controllers are expensive, I put in a switch for each one when it needs to be disconnected and reconnected.
I pretty much use Blue Sea. Buying a poor quality switch, circuit breaker, fuse, etc is easy to do. While you will spend more with Blue Sea, at least you know you will be getting the good stuff. Fire sucks.
As far as having a switch on a charge controller, my manual says to "...make a crisp connection when attaching the wire." That is almost impossible for me to do without a switch. Since my controllers are expensive, I put in a switch for each one when it needs to be disconnected and reconnected.
I pretty much use Blue Sea. Buying a poor quality switch, circuit breaker, fuse, etc is easy to do. While you will spend more with Blue Sea, at least you know you will be getting the good stuff. Fire sucks.
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