Why do only 15 amp inlets have integrated extension cords?

[Wes.Joyner]

Hi everyone! So, I'm looking into getting a van, and I've found one that I really like, but the only issue is that it doesn't have shore power connections. I need to run an AC unit in the van, so I need a 30 amp inlet. I saw this idea, which I really like since it's so simple: https://www.campervantraveler.com/van-conversion-simple-shore-power-diy-solution/
So, I started searching for a 30 amp inlet with the same setup as the one in this article, but apparently it doesn't exist! Can anyone explain why that is, and most importantly, offer any advice on the simplest route for installing a 30 amp power inlet to run an AC unit from? Thanks!

 

[mjbeam64]

I'm using one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16...GE20HTJDSN8&psc=1&refRID=HZ3Y186VHGE20HTJDSN8

Why does it need to be 30 amp?

 

[Trebor English]

Regular extension cords use regular 3 prong sockets and plugs.  Those sockets and plugs are rated for 15 amps.  There is no such thing as a 30 amp extension cord at Home Depot or Harbor Freight. 

For 30 amps you need big wire.  You probably want a real AC distribution system with circuit breakers.  The same applies to 50 amp service.

Do you need a 30 amp system?  Do you have a 500 watt window unit air conditioner.  That only needs 5 amps.  Do you have a 14,000 BTU through the roof RV air conditioner?

 

[Wes.Joyner]

I'm using one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16...GE20HTJDSN8&psc=1&refRID=HZ3Y186VHGE20HTJDSN8

Why does it need to be 30 amp?

I did some research, and got the impression that a 15 amp won’t run an AC unit and fridge together reliably  So I would need a 30 amp

 

[mjbeam64]

I did some research, and got the impression that a 15 amp won’t run an AC unit and fridge together reliably  So I would need a 30 amp

An inefficient 8000 BTU AC uses about 9 amps. A typical house refrigerator will draw around 6 amps. You probably only need 5000 BTU AC and a small fridge for a van will use maybe 3-4 amps.

However, if you really want 30 amps, you could get something like this and put 2 of those 15 amp outlets on the side of your van:

 https://www.amazon.com/Epicord-adap...30+amp+to+15+amp+split&qid=1592876776&sr=8-13

Or get this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ44ZK...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

...and get someone who knows what they are doing to splice two 15 amp extension cords to it for you. It's not complicated but if you mess it up it could kill you. Best would be to go through a breaker box with GFI.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

I did some research, and got the impression that a 15 amp won’t run an AC unit and fridge together reliably  So I would need a 30 amp

A standard house sized refrigerator (14 - 20 cu. ft.) needs its own 15A circuit because of inrush (start-up current).  A small RV refrigerator will draw less than 7A on start up.

A 5000 BTU air conditioner will use about 5 amps with a start-up current that can reach 10 amps if you don't have a soft start capacitor installed.  So yes, if your refrigerator draws a lot of current on startup and they start together, it can blow the fuse.  So you install a soft start capacitor on the air conditioner to eliminate that problem (it also enables you to run the air conditioner on a 1000W generator).

An RV 30 amp male power connector needs a distribution box on the other end with circuit breakers or fuses for each 15A circuit to meet code.  That 15A unit shown appears to be unfused so you are relying on a circuit breaker of questionable quality in the power pylon to protect your van.

 

[highdesertranger]

where do you plan to plug in a 30amp cord?

highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

RV parks with electricity usually have 20 amp service, 30 amp and 50 amp. The 20 amp outlets look like 15 amp service but have 20 amp breakers. When you buy the 120v outlets, there will be ones rated for 15 amd and ones rated for 20. Get a 12 Ga extension cord, don't cheap out here. A cheap 16 gauge extension cord could overheat or not be able to deliver the amperage your devices require thereby burning them out. 20 amp service is more than enough for what you are using. 30 amp service is divided up inside with different breakers feeding different circuits. Even then, not every circuit can be used to its' maximum as the main breaker is 30 amps.

 

[maki2]

Go to the marine supply stores or RV stores and you will find water proof shore power inlets there that you can do a self install through the side of your van. You will need to purchase a bimetal hole saw of the size required in the instructions for the shore power inlet. It is not that difficult of a job to install one. You will also find cords of various lengths to use with it. I am a 70 year old woman, I put mine in....you can too, just follow the step-by-step instructions.

 

[Trebor English]

I did some research, and got the impression that a 15 amp won’t run an AC unit and fridge together reliably  So I would need a 30 amp

In Florida hurricane prep is a thing.  I always had a generator for the well water pump.  When not running the pump the generator was running the 5000 BTU window unit and the 20 cubic foot fridge and the chest freezer.  I wired it up to the house so that every light and outlet worked.  A fan, TV,  air conditioner,  fridge, and freezer all played well together.  The one horsepower, just shy of 800 watts, water pump needed some other stuff off to be able to start. 

15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts.  Look at the ratings of the units you want to run.  A small 2000 watt inverter generator will do what you need.  Some generators allow connecting two in parallel if you really need 30 amps.

 

[Weight]

As maki posted. Look at an rv supply or marine. Or learn to use google. 30 amp rv plug;= https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Powe...keywords=rv+30+amp+plug&qid=1592922194&sr=8-8

 

[mjbeam64]

I believe the issue is that the original poster is looking for a 30 amp outlet to install into the side of a van that already has two 15 amp female plugs wired to it, like this (but 30 amp):

https://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/w...&WS=1&tag=campervantraveler-20&language=en_US

This could be installed with no additional wiring needed. Just plug fridge in one and AC in the other. I don't see a 30 amp outlet like that anywhere either. The next easiest way I can see to do something like that would be to install two 15 amp outlets on the side of the van, then buy a 30 amp plug that splits to two 15 amp female plugs:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61sMTnvSkmL._AC_UL115_.jpg

..then run two 15 amp extension cords to the two 15 amp outlets installed in the side of the van.

 

[Wes.Joyner]

Thank you so much for all the advice!! I didn't expect to get so much help, y'all are the best I'll keep all this in mind, research the consumption of the AC unit and fridge I want, etc. Thanks again everyone!!

 

[maki2]

Here is a simple solution that I am using for a temporary setup while I am working on my build.

I installed one of the 30 amp electrical fittings through the wall of my travel trailer. Then I wired a few feet of heavy gauge Romex wiring to the interior side of that 30 amp fitting. I ran the Romex into an outlet box, wired up an outlet, added a cover plate and now I can plug things into it while I am inside the trailer working on the renovation.  Of course eventually it will be wired up to outlets that are secured into the new cabinetry. But it will be another month or two before I finish the cabinetry and finish up with all the final wiring.

The Romex I am using is the marine rated type made with tinned, stranded, wired rather than the solid wire Romex used in houses.  That makes it easy to move my box around. But I suggest you use a length of heavy gauge 3 wire round cord as it does need to be wire that is flexible.

I am doing my build in a community with more than a thousand boats and there was a West Marine store just a few steps from my build spot. A lot of what I put into my build comes from the marine supply sources

 

[maki2]

By the way remember regarding what I posted above, I did say what I am doing in the image above is a temporary setup while I am working on my build. All the permanent wiring inside my travel trailer will be fused or have circuit breakers, be the right wire gauge, grounded, etc.

 

[PineyCruisin]

I searched everywhere on the internet for a 30amp extension cord that had 110 plugs and came up with a very simple solution. It is a bit cumbersome with the adapter and is a bit expensive for the 2 parts but suits our needs since we didn't want to rewire our van's electric system and didn't want to put a hole in the van.

10 gauge 30 amp cord with 4 110 ac plugs for use with generators:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D3GVYBB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

adaptor to go from above cord to typical 30 amp shore power pedestal:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...le-Connector-Hots-Bridged-ADTTL1430/301828751

 

[highdesertranger]

your looking in the wrong place search RV electrical adaptors. the make all kinds of adaptors. BTW the 30amp are still 110v only the amps are more. the difference is 30amp or 15amp they are all 110v. highdesertranger

 

[PineyCruisin]

Yes, adapters are easy to find...it was the wiring needed between the adapter and the small space heater I wanted to run that were my hurdle as I didn't feel comfortable running anything higher than a 10 gauge when connected to shore. A smaller a/c unit, as the OP mentioned, I presume needs at least that gauge, too. 

The 10 gauge extension cord with multi-plugs I purchased allows me to run the heater for more piece of mind along with the ability to use the other plugs for smaller draw items with absolutely no additional wiring or, worse yet, extension cords.

If there were other means, I certainly would love to hear about them because I really wish I could have found a 10 gauge cord (or lower) with a tt-30p plug instead of a L14-30P one.