Accessing RV shore power from van

[StacyK]

I am considering camping in an RV community in southern NM for a while this spring in a place that is fine with camper vans like my Ford Transit. The weather will still be cold enough that I imagine I will want to run a small space heater (500w) in the evening and morning (or a tiny 200w one overnight just to minimize heat loss?), rather than my little stovetop heater. This community offers full hookup sites, but only with 50 amp outlets. All my other electrical needs are modest and would continue to be handled by my little 300 wh power station, which I would recharge off grid. To use a space heater, I would have to run an extension cord through a window. So: Can I do this at all? Can 50 amps be safely toned down to 15 with adapters? Space heaters always say not to use extension cords at all, and I understand how the big ones can exceed the capacity of the cords. But does a small heater pose the same risk? I don’t know enough about this to know what I don’t know.

 

[bullfrog !]

Yes there are adaptors, yes there are heavy duty extension cords made mainly for construction crews running tools that draw higher amperage. I often run a 1,500 watt to 700 watt ceramic heater off a 10 gauge extension cord which is as short as will reach safely without putting strain on the cord. Just my own experience, disclaimer, results may vary! Do this at your own risk! If the cord or plug starts to get warm cease using and turn off the heater. After it cools unplug and check the plug and plugin for burnt or melted places. In my case I’ve never had a problem and I doubt 500 watts will give you one using a 10 gauge extension cord.

 

[maki2]

If you are going to be doing this situation of being in an RV park now and again I suggest you put a thru bulk plug into the side of your vehicle. Then carry an exterior rated heavy cord with the right adapters for RV parks. In the inside of your van you can put on a short length of heavy cord with a pug end on it or even run that wire to an outlet box.

None of that work is very difficult to do. It is mostly just a matter of stripping ends of wires and tightening them onto the screw terminals on the fittings. Just keep the color coding consistent so you do not create a short circuit. Other than the thru hiull fRV style fittings all the parts you need are in hardware stores.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yes you can do this, you will need an adapter like this:

ebay-adapter

(not endorsing this particular seller, just a link to show what is needed)

 

[StacyK]

Thank you all, and especially for those specific parameters of gauge and adapter. It’s also good to know that installing a plug directly into the van is fairly straightforward. I’d like to expand my options for winter camping, and this could be a good way to do it.

 

[jacqueg]

I have a NOCO port plug I got on Amazon - $27, works great. I use exterior grade extension cords both inside and outside the van.

 

[VanFan]

We run a heavy duty extension cord through a cracked window for a 1500 watt (high)/750 watt (low) ceramic cube heater often. The only time it can be a problem is if it's raining heavily. (Probably should install a port in the side of the van, but probably won't.)

An electric kettle inside for coffee and tea is nice, too.

True confession: we also use an extension cord with a 5000 btu window air conditioner. For that, a drip loop is arranged over the side mirror outside.

Funny you should mention the adapters: it's on my shopping list.

If it's cold, the first thing we do is plug a circuit checker into the power box to be sure everything is working and wired correctly. I always wear rubber soled shoes and keep one hand free when fooling with electrical things outside--GFI or no.

 

[WanderingRose]

It would be an unusual electrical hookup that didn’t include some outlets for standard household current.

They seem to all have them.

 

[tx2sturgis]

It would be an unusual electrical hookup that didn’t include some outlets for standard household current.

They seem to all have them.

True, most of the RV power pedestals I have seen usually include a 120v, 15 amp household style outlet, BUT...those almost always have a GFCI protected outlet, which are prone to trip out when an electrical cord gets wet. So, they work great, until its cold and rainy (or wet snow) and you wake up at 3 AM and the space heater (or shorepower) is off and now you are wondering what has happened.

I prefer to use the adpator from the 30 amp or 50 amp receptacle,,,most of those do NOT use a GFCI for just that reason...nuisance trips.

 

[StacyK]

It would be an unusual electrical hookup that didn’t include some outlets for standard household current.

They seem to all have them.

That’s good to know in general. I’ve never tried hanging out with the “big dogs” before. This place may be an exception, as it’s a former miner’s work camp that’s in the process of being converted into a kind of artist’s community. If anyone’s interested: https://smugglersroost.net/

 

[PineyCruisin]

I purchased one of these for our van to avoid drilling any additional holes or having to rewire the inside:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Champion-P...QVIEh6gwljIAQXlANnBoCJowQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
..and paired it with this adapter for most pedestal use

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AC-WORKS/5013313847
From this setup, it's easy to find adapters to use it with 50 amp outlets, or even a standard 115 ac in an emergency. And because the cord is flat, it fits perfectly in the space at the bottom between the rear doors so don't need a window open.

Those 4 plugs on the cord also come in very handy for other uses, like charging small devices or using lights at night, while simultaneously using the heater.

 

[LoupGarou]

I installed a Smart Plug. There's cheaper alternates, but that's what I went with.



https://www.amazon.com/SmartPlug-B3...76120613&sprefix=rv+smart+plug,aps,109&sr=8-5

 

[Gr8ful]

I have a smart plug on the ambo, not sure if 30 or 50 amp as it heats the water in the engine & the front & rear heaters will throw heat & all the lights & plugs work.

 

[StacyK]

And because the cord is flat, it fits perfectly in the space at the bottom between the rear doors so don't need a window open.

Wow. I didn’t even know there was such a thing. This is why we ask questions, so we can find out good stuff!

All of you, thank you for your input. You’ve helped me figure out the parameters I need to do this safely. Cheers!

 

[sithigh]

I haven't made it out that far because you're 2200 mi away and it's been one thing after another since the rig we bought broke down at 150mi. But "out and about" It's up to you to interface to what you hook up to. Just mind the amp ratings and keep your cords protected from water, physical damage, etc.
Every connection can wear out and you won't know what you have if you don't test it and possibly use your own surge protectors and power filters. As a licensed electrician, I liked the guy who set his up with water and electric divided into separate boxes behind the utility door on the side. He opens grommeted holes in the floor of those boxes for the hoses or cords (respectively) and can even restrain them before he locks the door. Eventually, different size cords were connected to his panel to be used in different places because there is no need to risk a big heavy 230 volt 50 Amp cord at a 15 Amp 120 volt receptacle. There is also no need for the expense of waterproof parts at his connection inside a metal box behind the access door. But take care to not turn on more than the connection and configuration can handle. So I expect his 15 amp has a 15 amp breaker and the big boy has a 2 pole 50 inside his panel. It helps protects his solar and generator options. But requires some knowledge to use carefully.

 

[Tony's Dream]

I installed an RV plug on my Transit and ran the wire to an outlet in the van (I was unware at the time they made a standard plug versus the 30 AMP set up). Then I purchased an adaptor to take it down to a standard 125v household plug. This past week I traveled to Arkansas where the temps were below freezing. I ran an outdoor extension cord from the adaptor to the RV post. I used a small space heater in the van and everything worked fine. It was the first time I used it since I set it up, so I checked the cords several time to see if they were getting too hot......and they didn't even get warm. With that said.....I only heated the van to around 50-60 and not 70+. It basically made it comfortable.

 

[StacyK]

I ran an outdoor extension cord from the adaptor to the RV post. I used a small space heater in the van and everything worked fine. It was the first time I used it since I set it up, so I checked the cords several time to see if they were getting too hot......and they didn't even get warm. With that said.....I only heated the van to around 50-60 and not 70+. It basically made it comfortable.

50-60 is perfect. I just want to be able to take the deep chill off. Thanks!

 

[maki2]

Check for heat at the plug end going into the receptacle.

 

[Kent_the_Nomad]

Just installed a 30A 120V inlet and use a 30A power cord that has a 30A 120V plug. Also have a 15A to 30A adapter for when I need it. These are standard RV power hookups. Most pedestals have a 50A, 30A and 15A outlets.

The inlet is cut into the driver's side of my van and takes the male end of the power cord. I ran the wire from the inlet to a 6 circuit 120V distribution panel, and two outlets off of that. I am able to install 4 more outlets if I need to. Might now install one more for a heater.

Mostly I will be using 120V for my Bodega refrigerator/freezer to save on my batteries.
I purchased the 30A 120V inlet, power cord and 15V - 30A adapter through Amazon. They are also available in any RV store.

The panel I purchased through a marine store. I use 14-3 marine wire for the outlets.
I can provide links if any are interested. I am an electrician and once I get on the road I would be happy to help anyone install this system. If you want to visit me in Charlotte, NC I could do this anytime until next January 2024